By MIRANDA HUSTON K-State Extension Horticulture Program Asst.&nbsp;

The Hays community got their hands dirty in the best way possible during a recent kokedama workshop held at the K-State Extension office. 

The event invited plant lovers of all ages to learn the Japanese art of kokedama. Translation: “koke” meaning moss and “dama” meaning ball, which involves creating a soil ball wrapped in moss and twine to create a living plant sculpture that effectively regulates water usage. 

Although the promotion of this event occurred over a short amount of time, it was still well attended and all the students had a blast. &nbsp;

Participants were guided step-by-step through the process of crafting their own kokedama, blending creativity with practical horticulture knowledge. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, with attendees sharing laughs, tips, and stories as they followed the masterful guidance of our instructor to shape and form their moss balls. 

Our host Wei Li of Simple Morea was an amazing guide throughout the process. Based out of Wichita, Li is knowledgeable, charismatic, patient, and full of pride in the work he does. Throughout the class, Li made sure all participants were taken care of and had all of the help they needed to create the best sculpture possible, making a light and fun environment during the creative process. 

Li travels all across the United States to attend conferences, festivals, and plant shows to share his artistic and horticultural knowledge. At these events he displays and sells plants he has grown from propagation, all while sharing his knowledge over any houseplant you might have questions about. His true wealth of knowledge doesn't stop at kokedama and tropical plants, but he also offers classes on wall mounted plants and more variety of creative plant displays. Li also offers these classes as a service for corporate team-building seminars.&nbsp;

In addition to the hands-on class, a pop-up plant sale offered a variety of houseplants, including unique varieties of those you know and love but also rare varieties that are difficult to find. Li also sold pedestals and displays for our kokedama creations to add an additional flair in their presentation. These displays were designed and 3D printed all from Wei Li. 

A pleasant surprise product he offered for the coming cold-season was a collection of handcrafted knit and crochet winter hats and neck wraps in a wide display of colors, some designed and hand dyed by Li himself and assembled by his mother. I myself could not resist the plant sale and bought more plants to add to my ever-growing collection, and did a little Christmas shopping as well. &nbsp;

You can be involved in all of the fun next year as we plan to have him back and for a longer time! Wei Li wishes to return to Ellis County to showcase more of what he does and offer more delightful classes. 

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just plant-curious, events like these offer a fun, low-pressure way to explore new hobbies and connect with the local community. Organizers are already brainstorming for more workshops to come, so keep an eye out for future opportunities to create and take home a practical creation you can display and be proud of.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/11/1763490984672.png" alt="Plant lovers learned the Japanese art of kokedama. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Plant lovers learned the Japanese art of kokedama. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By MIRANDA HUSTON K-State Extension Horticulture Program Asst.&nbsp; The Hays community got their hands dirty in the best way possible during a recent kokedama workshop held at the K-State Extension office. The event invited plant lovers of all ages to learn the Japanese art of kokedama. Translation: “koke” meaning moss and “dama” meaning ball, which involves creating a soil ball wrapped in moss and twine to create a living plant sculpture that effectively regulates water usage. Although the promotion of this event occurred over a short amount of time, it was still well attended and all the students had a blast. &nbsp;Participants were guided step-by-step through the process of crafting their own kokedama, blending creativity with practical horticulture knowledge. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, with attendees sharing laughs, tips, and stories as they followed the masterful guidance of our instructor to shape and form their moss balls. Our host Wei Li of Simple Morea was an amazing guide throughout the process. Based out of Wichita, Li is knowledgeable, charismatic, patient, and full of pride in the work he does. Throughout the class, Li made sure all participants were taken care of and had all of the help they needed to create the best sculpture possible, making a light and fun environment during the creative process. Li travels all across the United States to attend conferences, festivals, and plant shows to share his artistic and horticultural knowledge. At these events he displays and sells plants he has grown from propagation, all while sharing his knowledge over any houseplant you might have questions about. His true wealth of knowledge doesn't stop at kokedama and tropical plants, but he also offers classes on wall mounted plants and more variety of creative plant displays. Li also offers these classes as a service for corporate team-building seminars.&nbsp;In addition to the hands-on class, a pop-up plant sale offered a variety of houseplants, including unique varieties of those you know and love but also rare varieties that are difficult to find. Li also sold pedestals and displays for our kokedama creations to add an additional flair in their presentation. These displays were designed and 3D printed all from Wei Li. A pleasant surprise product he offered for the coming cold-season was a collection of handcrafted knit and crochet winter hats and neck wraps in a wide display of colors, some designed and hand dyed by Li himself and assembled by his mother. I myself could not resist the plant sale and bought more plants to add to my ever-growing collection, and did a little Christmas shopping as well. &nbsp;You can be involved in all of the fun next year as we plan to have him back and for a longer time! Wei Li wishes to return to Ellis County to showcase more of what he does and offer more delightful classes. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just plant-curious, events like these offer a fun, low-pressure way to explore new hobbies and connect with the local community. Organizers are already brainstorming for more workshops to come, so keep an eye out for future opportunities to create and take home a practical creation you can display and be proud of.

Kokedama workshop brings greenery, joy to Hays 

Drive around prairie communities or rural farmsteads, and you’ll find numerous overgrown lilac hedges attesting to early residents’ fondness for this sweet-scented flower. These rows of easy-to-grow woody bushes require little attention even during harsh weather and when mature, break gusty winds around a house, outbuilding, or patio. As a bonus, they perfume spring breezes about the time housekeepers throw open windows to freshen winter-stale rooms. Like poppies, daffodils, iris, and other spring flowers, their short blooming season invites folks to appreciate them when those multitudinous tubular blooms are most glorious. To my surprise, Western Kansans got another chance to see a favorite flower during this autumn’s unusual second bloom.

A few weeks ago, I noted local lilac bushes producing their signature palm perfect bouquets—again…. To my marveling eye, hedges set enough blossoms a person could create several lovely lavender arrangements. Granted, these weren’t densely flowered like we expect each spring, but it was notable due to the number of out of season blooms on each plant. I made a point of driving around towns like Herndon, Oberlin, Hill City, and Atwood to note the same phenomena of lilacs blooming while tree leaves turned gold and orange. My first thought was Mother Nature is off her meds. Then I investigated.

Multiple horticultural journal articles explained stressed lilacs produce second blooms to guarantee survival of the species. My first thought was what stress? We had more rain and gentler temperatures this summer than we normally experience in Western Kansas. As I read university research articles, I discovered that just as humans experience continued stress with resulting symptoms, lilac bushes also suffer post-incident stress-induced consequences.

That made sense. Western Kansans have survived a sequence of drought years combined with periods of hot or frigid winds. To multiple those effects, most plains residents expect lilac hedges to take care of themselves. After all, that was one reason early settlers planted them. They don’t require focused attention to keep growing and blooming. Researchers suggest this possibly led to this year’s producing seeds twice to save the species reaction.

As a bonafide worrywart, I thought that this expenditure of extra energy in a second bloom might wipe out one of my favorite plantings. Those journal articles calmed my fears and let me know the hedges will most likely survive unless they have other issues. What did happen is the new buds that emerged after the spring bloom became this fall’s bouquets. This fall flowering will limit production of next spring’s blossoms. Next April and May, don’t count on as many perfumed breezes as we enjoyed this year.

Nature has so many ways of keeping us on our toes if we pay attention. While I’ve seen the odd lilac bloom out of turn, this is the first time in 8 decades I saw entire hedges producing multiple blossoms. Since that won’t likely happen again during my lifetime, I’ve purposely sought those out of season flowers and rolled down the window on warmish autumn days to enjoy Spring in the Fall.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/10/1761738281092.jpeg" alt="Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By KAREN MADORINDrive around prairie communities or rural farmsteads, and you’ll find numerous overgrown lilac hedges attesting to early residents’ fondness for this sweet-scented flower. These rows of easy-to-grow woody bushes require little attention even during harsh weather and when mature, break gusty winds around a house, outbuilding, or patio. As a bonus, they perfume spring breezes about the time housekeepers throw open windows to freshen winter-stale rooms. Like poppies, daffodils, iris, and other spring flowers, their short blooming season invites folks to appreciate them when those multitudinous tubular blooms are most glorious. To my surprise, Western Kansans got another chance to see a favorite flower during this autumn’s unusual second bloom.A few weeks ago, I noted local lilac bushes producing their signature palm perfect bouquets—again…. To my marveling eye, hedges set enough blossoms a person could create several lovely lavender arrangements. Granted, these weren’t densely flowered like we expect each spring, but it was notable due to the number of out of season blooms on each plant. I made a point of driving around towns like Herndon, Oberlin, Hill City, and Atwood to note the same phenomena of lilacs blooming while tree leaves turned gold and orange. My first thought was Mother Nature is off her meds. Then I investigated.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/10/1761738339066.jpeg" alt="Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>Multiple horticultural journal articles explained stressed lilacs produce second blooms to guarantee survival of the species. My first thought was what stress? We had more rain and gentler temperatures this summer than we normally experience in Western Kansas. As I read university research articles, I discovered that just as humans experience continued stress with resulting symptoms, lilac bushes also suffer post-incident stress-induced consequences.That made sense. Western Kansans have survived a sequence of drought years combined with periods of hot or frigid winds. To multiple those effects, most plains residents expect lilac hedges to take care of themselves. After all, that was one reason early settlers planted them. They don’t require focused attention to keep growing and blooming. Researchers suggest this possibly led to this year’s producing seeds twice to save the species reaction.As a bonafide worrywart, I thought that this expenditure of extra energy in a second bloom might wipe out one of my favorite plantings. Those journal articles calmed my fears and let me know the hedges will most likely survive unless they have other issues. What did happen is the new buds that emerged after the spring bloom became this fall’s bouquets. This fall flowering will limit production of next spring’s blossoms. Next April and May, don’t count on as many perfumed breezes as we enjoyed this year.Nature has so many ways of keeping us on our toes if we pay attention. While I’ve seen the odd lilac bloom out of turn, this is the first time in 8 decades I saw entire hedges producing multiple blossoms. Since that won’t likely happen again during my lifetime, I’ve purposely sought those out of season flowers and rolled down the window on warmish autumn days to enjoy Spring in the Fall.

MADORIN: Mother nature’s surprise

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

I always love the changing of the seasons, especially summer to fall. After the heat of the summer, the cool, crisp mornings and cooler days makes me happy. One of the first signs that I can tell that summer is on its way out is the first leaves on the cottonwood trees starting to turn yellow. The reds and oranges of the maples and oaks quickly follow suite. Although the New England states is the place to view the changing of the seasons, Kansas is no slouch. I found an article this week for you for the Horticulture Department about why trees change the colors they do and how you get the striking colors of fall.

Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.

Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.

If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.

Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.

Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.

The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910

K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682262753.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictI always love the changing of the seasons, especially summer to fall. After the heat of the summer, the cool, crisp mornings and cooler days makes me happy. One of the first signs that I can tell that summer is on its way out is the first leaves on the cottonwood trees starting to turn yellow. The reds and oranges of the maples and oaks quickly follow suite. Although the New England states is the place to view the changing of the seasons, Kansas is no slouch. I found an article this week for you for the Horticulture Department about why trees change the colors they do and how you get the striking colors of fall.Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910K-State Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

BOOR: Fall colors

HALF MOON BAY, Calif. (AP) — A California engineer and gardening enthusiast won the top prize at an annual pumpkin-weighing contest in Northern California after growing a giant jack-o’-lantern gourd weighing 2,346 pounds (1,064 kilograms).

Brandon Dawson, of Santa Rosa, California, clinched the victory at the 52nd World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off in Half Moon Bay, south of San Francisco.

Dawson pumped his arms in the air and sat his two children on top of the giant pumpkin — roughly the same weight as a small sedan or a large bison — after being crowned this year’s winner.

“My mind is kind of racing because I was in this position last year when I lost by 6 pounds (3 kilograms),” he said in an interview.

Dawson, a manufacturing engineer at electric vehicle maker Rivian Automotive, said he has been growing massive pumpkins for five years. Precision skills acquired at his job helped him with the right watering and sunlight to help his gourd grow, he said.

He said he enjoys getting his children involved in the process.

“We like to spend time out in the patch and watch the thing grow,” Dawson said about his 2-year-old son and 4-year-old daughter.

“My 4-year-old now can really pay attention to the growing process,” especially since the giant pumpkins can grow by 50 to 70 pounds (23 to 32 kilograms) a day, he added.

The pumpkin champ won a $20,000 prize for growing the biggest pumpkin.

Dawson’s pumpkin was the runner up in last year’s contest at Half Moon Bay when&nbsp;<a href="https://apnews.com/article/california-giant-pumpkin-winner-71cc6201bb732f057261d452bdf97ba5">the winning gourd grown</a>&nbsp;by Minnesota horticulture teacher Travis Gienger came in at 2,471 pounds (1,121 kilograms).

Gienger, of Anoka, Minnesota,&nbsp;<a href="https://apnews.com/article/california-giant-pumpkin-world-record-dbe2b22743e332998c204f2191b2a46f">set a world record</a>&nbsp;at the California contest in 2023 for the heaviest pumpkin when his giant jack-o’-lantern gourd weighed 2,749 pounds (1,247 kilograms). Gienger’s pumpkin was damaged earlier this season and he couldn’t enter this year’s contest in California.

Two brothers in England earlier this month broke Gienger’s record with a gourd that weighed 2,819 pounds (1,278kg).

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/10/1760471418748.jpeg" alt="Brandon Dawson, center, celebrates after winning the Safeway 52nd annual World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off in Half Moon Bay, Calif., Monday, Oct. 13, 2025. (AP Photo/Godofredo A. Vásquez)" />
 <figcaption>Brandon Dawson, center, celebrates after winning the Safeway 52nd annual World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off in Half Moon Bay, Calif., Monday, Oct. 13, 2025. (AP Photo/Godofredo A. Vásquez)</figcaption>
 </figure>HALF MOON BAY, Calif. (AP) — A California engineer and gardening enthusiast won the top prize at an annual pumpkin-weighing contest in Northern California after growing a giant jack-o’-lantern gourd weighing 2,346 pounds (1,064 kilograms).Brandon Dawson, of Santa Rosa, California, clinched the victory at the 52nd World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off in Half Moon Bay, south of San Francisco.Dawson pumped his arms in the air and sat his two children on top of the giant pumpkin — roughly the same weight as a small sedan or a large bison — after being crowned this year’s winner.“My mind is kind of racing because I was in this position last year when I lost by 6 pounds (3 kilograms),” he said in an interview.Dawson, a manufacturing engineer at electric vehicle maker Rivian Automotive, said he has been growing massive pumpkins for five years. Precision skills acquired at his job helped him with the right watering and sunlight to help his gourd grow, he said.He said he enjoys getting his children involved in the process.“We like to spend time out in the patch and watch the thing grow,” Dawson said about his 2-year-old son and 4-year-old daughter.“My 4-year-old now can really pay attention to the growing process,” especially since the giant pumpkins can grow by 50 to 70 pounds (23 to 32 kilograms) a day, he added.The pumpkin champ won a $20,000 prize for growing the biggest pumpkin.Dawson’s pumpkin was the runner up in last year’s contest at Half Moon Bay when&nbsp;<a href="https://apnews.com/article/california-giant-pumpkin-winner-71cc6201bb732f057261d452bdf97ba5">the winning gourd grown</a>&nbsp;by Minnesota horticulture teacher Travis Gienger came in at 2,471 pounds (1,121 kilograms).Gienger, of Anoka, Minnesota,&nbsp;<a href="https://apnews.com/article/california-giant-pumpkin-world-record-dbe2b22743e332998c204f2191b2a46f">set a world record</a>&nbsp;at the California contest in 2023 for the heaviest pumpkin when his giant jack-o’-lantern gourd weighed 2,749 pounds (1,247 kilograms). Gienger’s pumpkin was damaged earlier this season and he couldn’t enter this year’s contest in California.Two brothers in England earlier this month broke Gienger’s record with a gourd that weighed 2,819 pounds (1,278kg).

Biggest pumpkin in America, just in time for Halloween  

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

September is the best time to give cool-season grasses in Kansas a boost, but homeowners should take note of an important fact before choosing which variety to plant.&nbsp;

Not all grass seed is created equal.&nbsp;

Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini urges homeowners to read the label on the bag of seed before re-seeding the lawn.&nbsp;

“Depending on the seed quality,” she said, “you could be planting weeds along with the desired grass.”&nbsp;

She adds: “Check the percentage of weed seed listed. This will tell you how much weed you will be introducing if you plant this seed mix. For example, if this number is 0.5% weed seed, approximately 12-16 weeds will be planted per square foot.”&nbsp;

Domenghini suggests looking for seed that lists weed seed at less than 0.01%, but 0% is best.&nbsp;

“Check the listing for ‘Other Crop’ on the label, as well, and choose a grass seed with a low percentage,” Domenghini said, noting that ‘Other Crop’ includes any species grown intentionally such as turf and pasture grasses.&nbsp;

Some species of grassy weeds qualify as ‘Other Crop’ and legally do not have to be named if they constitute less than 5% of the contents. ‘Other Crop’ can also include more desirable species that won’t impact the lawn.&nbsp;

“But,” Domenghini notes, “without knowing what is included, it’s best to choose a seed where this number is as close to zero as possible. Quality seed typically has 0.01% ‘Other Crop’ or less.”&nbsp;

Domenghini shared more tips for seeding fall lawns:&nbsp;

· Use recommended seeding rates and distribute well. Seeding at a rate higher than recommended can cause issues with disease and environmental stress.&nbsp;

· Good seed to soil contact is critical. Aeration prior to seeding is one way to promote this. Topdressing and raking to cover seed are other good methods.&nbsp;

· Light, frequent irrigation is necessary the first few weeks after planting and may be required several times daily. Soil should remain moist, but not waterlogged.&nbsp;

· Minimize traffic on the area until seedlings are ready to be mowed. Begin mowing once seedlings reach 3-4 inches tall.&nbsp;

Overseeding an existing lawn&nbsp;

· Prior to planting, mow the area low (1 to 1 ½ inches) to reduce competition with seedlings and help improve seed contact with soil.&nbsp;

· Water light, but often, keeping soil moist but not waterlogged.&nbsp;

Fertilize cool-season grasses&nbsp;

· Use a quick-release source of nitrogen.&nbsp;

· Apply 1 to 1 ½ pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.&nbsp;

· Soil should be moist, but not saturated.&nbsp;

· Holes should be 2-3 inches apart and 2 ½ to 3 inches deep.&nbsp;

· Cores can be left on surface and will break down naturally.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/8/1756223517825.jpeg" alt="Fescue grass. Photo by K-State Research and Extension" />
 <figcaption>Fescue grass. Photo by K-State Research and Extension</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictSeptember is the best time to give cool-season grasses in Kansas a boost, but homeowners should take note of an important fact before choosing which variety to plant.&nbsp;Not all grass seed is created equal.&nbsp;Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini urges homeowners to read the label on the bag of seed before re-seeding the lawn.&nbsp;“Depending on the seed quality,” she said, “you could be planting weeds along with the desired grass.”&nbsp;She adds: “Check the percentage of weed seed listed. This will tell you how much weed you will be introducing if you plant this seed mix. For example, if this number is 0.5% weed seed, approximately 12-16 weeds will be planted per square foot.”&nbsp;Domenghini suggests looking for seed that lists weed seed at less than 0.01%, but 0% is best.&nbsp;“Check the listing for ‘Other Crop’ on the label, as well, and choose a grass seed with a low percentage,” Domenghini said, noting that ‘Other Crop’ includes any species grown intentionally such as turf and pasture grasses.&nbsp;Some species of grassy weeds qualify as ‘Other Crop’ and legally do not have to be named if they constitute less than 5% of the contents. ‘Other Crop’ can also include more desirable species that won’t impact the lawn.&nbsp;“But,” Domenghini notes, “without knowing what is included, it’s best to choose a seed where this number is as close to zero as possible. Quality seed typically has 0.01% ‘Other Crop’ or less.”&nbsp;Domenghini shared more tips for seeding fall lawns:&nbsp;Seeding new lawns&nbsp;· Use recommended seeding rates and distribute well. Seeding at a rate higher than recommended can cause issues with disease and environmental stress.&nbsp;· Good seed to soil contact is critical. Aeration prior to seeding is one way to promote this. Topdressing and raking to cover seed are other good methods.&nbsp;· Light, frequent irrigation is necessary the first few weeks after planting and may be required several times daily. Soil should remain moist, but not waterlogged.&nbsp;· Minimize traffic on the area until seedlings are ready to be mowed. Begin mowing once seedlings reach 3-4 inches tall.&nbsp;Overseeding an existing lawn&nbsp;· Prior to planting, mow the area low (1 to 1 ½ inches) to reduce competition with seedlings and help improve seed contact with soil.&nbsp;· Water light, but often, keeping soil moist but not waterlogged.&nbsp;Fertilize cool-season grasses&nbsp;· Use a quick-release source of nitrogen.&nbsp;· Apply 1 to 1 ½ pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.&nbsp;Core-aerating&nbsp;· Soil should be moist, but not saturated.&nbsp;· Holes should be 2-3 inches apart and 2 ½ to 3 inches deep.&nbsp;· Cores can be left on surface and will break down naturally.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Giving cool-season grasses a boost for fall

Homeowners who are looking for ways to promote healthy growing trees in their yard are well-advised to remember this axiom: A ring is a tree’s best friend.&nbsp;

Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said a mulch ring is a circular border surrounding the base of a tree. When planting a new tree, she recommends including a mulch ring that covers the soil beneath the tree canopy.

&nbsp;“One benefit of using a mulch ring around trees in a lawn area is to prevent maintenance equipment from coming too close and damaging the trunk,” she said. “Also, plants grown directly beneath the tree canopy compete for water and nutrients, so a mulch ring keeps that soil covered without creating competition for the tree.”&nbsp;

Domenghini suggests using organic mulch, “for the same reasons it is selected for planter beds,” she said. Those reasons include conserving and extending available water, protecting from soil erosion, and reducing competition by suppressing weeds.

&nbsp;“The mulch ring around trees in a lawn should be at least 3-6 feet in diameter depending on the overall size of the tree,” Domenghini said. “Ideally, the mulch ring should extend to the drip line of the tree, which means the ground beneath the entire canopy of the tree should be covered.”&nbsp;

The mulch ring should include a 4-6 inch diameter circle of bare soil at the center so that mulch is not right up next to the trunk, to prevent rotting. The mulch should be 2-4 inches deep and re-applied annually.&nbsp;“If mulch is applied too deep (more than four inches), the mulch can actually restrict oxygen from the soil and negatively affect the tree’s root development,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682229509.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictHomeowners who are looking for ways to promote healthy growing trees in their yard are well-advised to remember this axiom: A ring is a tree’s best friend.&nbsp;Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini said a mulch ring is a circular border surrounding the base of a tree. When planting a new tree, she recommends including a mulch ring that covers the soil beneath the tree canopy.&nbsp;“One benefit of using a mulch ring around trees in a lawn area is to prevent maintenance equipment from coming too close and damaging the trunk,” she said. “Also, plants grown directly beneath the tree canopy compete for water and nutrients, so a mulch ring keeps that soil covered without creating competition for the tree.”&nbsp;Domenghini suggests using organic mulch, “for the same reasons it is selected for planter beds,” she said. Those reasons include conserving and extending available water, protecting from soil erosion, and reducing competition by suppressing weeds.&nbsp;“The mulch ring around trees in a lawn should be at least 3-6 feet in diameter depending on the overall size of the tree,” Domenghini said. “Ideally, the mulch ring should extend to the drip line of the tree, which means the ground beneath the entire canopy of the tree should be covered.”&nbsp;The mulch ring should include a 4-6 inch diameter circle of bare soil at the center so that mulch is not right up next to the trunk, to prevent rotting. The mulch should be 2-4 inches deep and re-applied annually.&nbsp;“If mulch is applied too deep (more than four inches), the mulch can actually restrict oxygen from the soil and negatively affect the tree’s root development,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: A ring is a tree's best friend

It may be mid-summer, but veteran gardeners know it’s time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.&nbsp;

“Fall gardens may face additional pressures of pests and heat, but the flavor that comes from these late season crops are often better (than summer crops),” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.&nbsp;She notes that gardeners should count the number of days to harvest, as well as the crops’ tolerance to frost, before deciding when to plant fall crops.

 Crops may be seeded directly, or transplanted into the garden.&nbsp;“Growing transplants is a good choice when the temperature is too warm for starting seeds in the ground, assuming you have grow lights and space available for starting them indoors,” Domenghini said.

&nbsp;She provides some tips for successful fall crops:

&nbsp;· When seeding crops directly into the garden, plant slightly deeper than recommended in the spring to take advantage of the cooler soil temperatures and moisture available

· Water more frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out.

&nbsp;· Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge. Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of vermiculite or compost over the row after seeding, or use a soak hose or drip irrigation right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the ground.&nbsp;

Domenghini also suggests a timeline for planting fall crops:

Mid-July Plant potatoes if you can find seed stock or have saved seed potatoes. Do not use freshly dug potatoes as they have built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, grocery store potatoes are often treated, so they don’t sprout.&nbsp;Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower can be started from seed at this time. Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them. This will not be where they will grow the entire season; these crops will be transplanted in August.

Late July Seed beets, carrots and beans.

Late July to early August Seed spinach and long-season maturing lettuce. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;

Second week of August Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.

Mid to late August Seed radishes and leaf lettuce. There is no need to fertilize these crops before planting. Side-dress two weeks after transplanting, or four weeks after sowing seed, by applying two tablespoons of a 16-0-0 or one tablespoon of 27-3-3, 30-3-4 fertilizer (or something similar) per plant.&nbsp;

More information about fall gardening is&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/kansas-garden-guide_S51">available in the Kansas Garden Guide</a>, available online from the&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/">K-State Research and Extension bookstore</a>.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682262753.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictIt may be mid-summer, but veteran gardeners know it’s time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.&nbsp;“Fall gardens may face additional pressures of pests and heat, but the flavor that comes from these late season crops are often better (than summer crops),” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.&nbsp;She notes that gardeners should count the number of days to harvest, as well as the crops’ tolerance to frost, before deciding when to plant fall crops. Crops may be seeded directly, or transplanted into the garden.&nbsp;“Growing transplants is a good choice when the temperature is too warm for starting seeds in the ground, assuming you have grow lights and space available for starting them indoors,” Domenghini said.&nbsp;She provides some tips for successful fall crops:&nbsp;· When seeding crops directly into the garden, plant slightly deeper than recommended in the spring to take advantage of the cooler soil temperatures and moisture available· Water more frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out.&nbsp;· Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge. Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of vermiculite or compost over the row after seeding, or use a soak hose or drip irrigation right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the ground.&nbsp;Domenghini also suggests a timeline for planting fall crops:Mid-July Plant potatoes if you can find seed stock or have saved seed potatoes. Do not use freshly dug potatoes as they have built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, grocery store potatoes are often treated, so they don’t sprout.&nbsp;Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower can be started from seed at this time. Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them. This will not be where they will grow the entire season; these crops will be transplanted in August.Late July Seed beets, carrots and beans.Late July to early August Seed spinach and long-season maturing lettuce. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;Second week of August Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.Mid to late August Seed radishes and leaf lettuce. There is no need to fertilize these crops before planting. Side-dress two weeks after transplanting, or four weeks after sowing seed, by applying two tablespoons of a 16-0-0 or one tablespoon of 27-3-3, 30-3-4 fertilizer (or something similar) per plant.&nbsp;More information about fall gardening is&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/kansas-garden-guide_S51">available in the Kansas Garden Guide</a>, available online from the&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/">K-State Research and Extension bookstore</a>.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Planning time for fall vegetable gardens

By TONY GUERRERO Hays Post

The Ellis County Fair is giving everyone a chance to showcase their talents through friendly competitions.

The fair runs from July 11 to 19 and includes car races, rodeos, family-friendly fun and contests.

Participants must register at <a href="https://fairentry.com/Fair/SignIn/21262">fairentry.com</a> by July 7, with drop-off and judging dates varying by category. An account will need to be created if not already. Afterwards, you can choose your class and electronically enter it. There is no cost to enter.

Ellis County Fair Vice President Jill Pfannenstiel highlighted divisions such as gardening, child care art and photography.

Although many people are familiar with the 4-H competitions, the fair offers open classes to all residents.

“Photography is a real popular division at the fair,"&nbsp;Pfannenstiel said.

Most entries should be dropped off from 3 to 7 p.m. July 14 at the Ellis County Fairgrounds. Entries for food, crops and horticulture must be dropped off between 8 and 9 a.m. July 15.

Floriculture entries will be accepted on July 16. Participants are eligible to receive cash prizes based on ribbon awards.

Open Class judging will be July 15 and is closed to the public. Entries and prizes can be picked up from 8 to 10 a.m. on July 20 at the Schenk Building.

Exhibits and entries at the fair are judged into four ribbon groups: purple, blue, red and white. Purple ribbons represent the highest standard, and only entries in this group are eligible for advanced awards.

If judges determine the quality merits it, a champion and reserve champion may be selected in each subdivision. Prize money is awarded in the open class division, with champions earning $15, reserve champions $10 and purple ribbon winners receiving $5 for first, $3 for second, and $2 for third.

Pfannenstiel said there will be extra cash prizes for open class foods and photography that will get an additional $15.

You can find a complete list of Ellis County Fair Open Class competitions, including categories, classes, rules and entry requirements <a href="https://www.ellisco.net/DocumentCenter/View/5779/2025-Open-Class-Fair-Book">here</a>.

The Ellis County 4-H Youth Development program will also be held, featuring its own contests and judging process. A full list of 4-H class competitions can be found <a href="https://www.ellisco.net/DocumentCenter/View/5699/2025-4HDivisionECFBook---Updated">here</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/6/1750273149957.jpeg" alt="Award-winning open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Award-winning open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By TONY GUERRERO Hays PostThe Ellis County Fair is giving everyone a chance to showcase their talents through friendly competitions.The fair runs from July 11 to 19 and includes car races, rodeos, family-friendly fun and contests.Participants must register at <a href="https://fairentry.com/Fair/SignIn/21262">fairentry.com</a> by July 7, with drop-off and judging dates varying by category. An account will need to be created if not already. Afterwards, you can choose your class and electronically enter it. There is no cost to enter.Ellis County Fair Vice President Jill Pfannenstiel highlighted divisions such as gardening, child care art and photography.Although many people are familiar with the 4-H competitions, the fair offers open classes to all residents.“Photography is a real popular division at the fair,"&nbsp;Pfannenstiel said.Most entries should be dropped off from 3 to 7 p.m. July 14 at the Ellis County Fairgrounds. Entries for food, crops and horticulture must be dropped off between 8 and 9 a.m. July 15.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/6/1750273127620.jpeg" alt="Award-winning open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Award-winning open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure><figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/6/1750273171674.jpeg" alt="Open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure><figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/6/1750273196525.jpeg" alt="Open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure><figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/6/1750273250992.jpeg" alt="Open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Open class entries at the Ellis County Fair. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>Floriculture entries will be accepted on July 16. Participants are eligible to receive cash prizes based on ribbon awards.Open Class judging will be July 15 and is closed to the public. Entries and prizes can be picked up from 8 to 10 a.m. on July 20 at the Schenk Building.Exhibits and entries at the fair are judged into four ribbon groups: purple, blue, red and white. Purple ribbons represent the highest standard, and only entries in this group are eligible for advanced awards.If judges determine the quality merits it, a champion and reserve champion may be selected in each subdivision. Prize money is awarded in the open class division, with champions earning $15, reserve champions $10 and purple ribbon winners receiving $5 for first, $3 for second, and $2 for third.Pfannenstiel said there will be extra cash prizes for open class foods and photography that will get an additional $15.You can find a complete list of Ellis County Fair Open Class competitions, including categories, classes, rules and entry requirements <a href="https://www.ellisco.net/DocumentCenter/View/5779/2025-Open-Class-Fair-Book">here</a>.The Ellis County 4-H Youth Development program will also be held, featuring its own contests and judging process. A full list of 4-H class competitions can be found <a href="https://www.ellisco.net/DocumentCenter/View/5699/2025-4HDivisionECFBook---Updated">here</a>.

Ellis County opens registration for 4-H, open competitions

State forestry and horticulture experts are urging patience and persistence when trying to manage bagworms, noting that caterpillars may emerge from eggs from late spring through early summer, depending on weather conditions.

Shad Hufnagel, forest health coordinator with the Kansas Forest Service, and Raymond Cloyd, extension specialist in horticultural entomology with K-State Research and Extension, advise that homeowners scout for bagworms from early- to mid-May and apply insecticides when young bagworms are present.

Once bagworms are detected, they said, homeowners might need to treat with an insecticide weekly for up to four weeks.

Cloyd said that in addition to emergence over time, young bagworms can ‘blow in’ - called ‘ballooning’ - from neighboring plants on silken threads, thus increasing the importance of treating multiple times during the growing season.

“Once the caterpillars emerge from eggs, they begin feeding on the host tree or shrub, creating a protective bag, hence the common name,” Cloyd said. “The plant material fed upon is used to build a protective covering that provides protection from predators and insecticide treatments, which can influence the effectiveness of insecticide applications.”

Hufnagel added “The larger and more robust the caterpillars and their cases become, the more difficult they are to control chemically.”

Bagworm feeding is commonly associated with such conifers as juniper, arborvitae, pine, and spruce, but Hufnagel said the caterpillars also feed on numerous deciduous host plants. Although defoliation of deciduous trees and shrubs typically does not result in long-term plant damage, extreme defoliation of conifers can cause significant plant stress and even plant mortality.

He said insecticides can be effective in mitigating damage to trees and shrubs. However, bagworm infestations are often cyclical; consequently, bagworm infestations may be low enough that spraying an insecticide may not be needed.

For increased effectiveness and to prevent bagworms from causing substantial plant damage, Hufnagel advises judicious treatment of windbreaks, Christmas trees, and ornamental landscape trees as soon as bagworms are present.

“Thorough coverage is important when treating for bagworms, including penetration into the interior plant canopy and upper branches,” he said. “Commercial treatments may be more effective for large trees or established windbreaks where applications from common household sprayers cannot reach the upper canopy of trees.”

Many insecticides are labeled for bagworms, but timing of application and thorough coverage will ensure the effectiveness of insecticides in managing bagworms. When bagworm caterpillars are small (1/8 to 1/4 of an inch long), products containing Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki (Btk) or spinosad as the active ingredient can be effective in managing bagworms.

Cloyd said the recommended insecticides have minimal direct impact on beneficial insects compared to broad-spectrum insecticides, which could lead to outbreaks of spider mites or scale insects that can cause damage to treated trees and shrubs.

If insecticides are not applied when bagworm caterpillars are 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch in length, then broad-spectrum insecticides -- including those containing malathion, acephate, or cyfluthrin as the active ingredients -- can be applied. Be sure to read the product label and follow directions.

Hand removing and destroying bagworm bags is an option for smaller infestations. For more information on controlling bagworms, reference the publication, <a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/item/bagworm-insect-pest-of-trees-and-shrubs_MF3474">Bagworm: Insect Pest of Trees and Shrubs</a>, written by Cloyd.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682262753.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor&nbsp;s an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor&nbsp;s an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictState forestry and horticulture experts are urging patience and persistence when trying to manage bagworms, noting that caterpillars may emerge from eggs from late spring through early summer, depending on weather conditions.Shad Hufnagel, forest health coordinator with the Kansas Forest Service, and Raymond Cloyd, extension specialist in horticultural entomology with K-State Research and Extension, advise that homeowners scout for bagworms from early- to mid-May and apply insecticides when young bagworms are present.Once bagworms are detected, they said, homeowners might need to treat with an insecticide weekly for up to four weeks.Cloyd said that in addition to emergence over time, young bagworms can ‘blow in’ - called ‘ballooning’ - from neighboring plants on silken threads, thus increasing the importance of treating multiple times during the growing season.“Once the caterpillars emerge from eggs, they begin feeding on the host tree or shrub, creating a protective bag, hence the common name,” Cloyd said. “The plant material fed upon is used to build a protective covering that provides protection from predators and insecticide treatments, which can influence the effectiveness of insecticide applications.”Hufnagel added “The larger and more robust the caterpillars and their cases become, the more difficult they are to control chemically.”Bagworm feeding is commonly associated with such conifers as juniper, arborvitae, pine, and spruce, but Hufnagel said the caterpillars also feed on numerous deciduous host plants. Although defoliation of deciduous trees and shrubs typically does not result in long-term plant damage, extreme defoliation of conifers can cause significant plant stress and even plant mortality.He said insecticides can be effective in mitigating damage to trees and shrubs. However, bagworm infestations are often cyclical; consequently, bagworm infestations may be low enough that spraying an insecticide may not be needed.For increased effectiveness and to prevent bagworms from causing substantial plant damage, Hufnagel advises judicious treatment of windbreaks, Christmas trees, and ornamental landscape trees as soon as bagworms are present.“Thorough coverage is important when treating for bagworms, including penetration into the interior plant canopy and upper branches,” he said. “Commercial treatments may be more effective for large trees or established windbreaks where applications from common household sprayers cannot reach the upper canopy of trees.”Many insecticides are labeled for bagworms, but timing of application and thorough coverage will ensure the effectiveness of insecticides in managing bagworms. When bagworm caterpillars are small (1/8 to 1/4 of an inch long), products containing Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki (Btk) or spinosad as the active ingredient can be effective in managing bagworms.Cloyd said the recommended insecticides have minimal direct impact on beneficial insects compared to broad-spectrum insecticides, which could lead to outbreaks of spider mites or scale insects that can cause damage to treated trees and shrubs.If insecticides are not applied when bagworm caterpillars are 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch in length, then broad-spectrum insecticides -- including those containing malathion, acephate, or cyfluthrin as the active ingredients -- can be applied. Be sure to read the product label and follow directions.Hand removing and destroying bagworm bags is an option for smaller infestations. For more information on controlling bagworms, reference the publication, <a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/item/bagworm-insect-pest-of-trees-and-shrubs_MF3474">Bagworm: Insect Pest of Trees and Shrubs</a>, written by Cloyd.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Managing bagworms starts in early to mid-May

Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue are among the most common grasses needing attention, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini, who shares the following maintenance calendar:

March Spot treat broadleaf weeds, if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness.

April Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products commonly available.

May Fertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in.

If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole during May or anytime from May through June for imidacloprid. These products work to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with ¼ inch of water.

June through Mid-July Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application.

Late-July through August If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops.

September Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer if rainfall does not occur.

November Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Use label rates for all products.

Domenghini reminds homeowners that using best practices for turf management is the most effective way to manage their lawn. “This includes watering only when needed and only applying as much as needed. Deep, infrequent watering is more efficient than frequent, shallow watering. Excessive fertilizer does not equal a healthier lawn and follow recommendations for lawn height when mowing."

 She also recommends getting the soil tested to determine nutrient levels. The best start to a healthy lawn is healthy soil.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682262753.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor is an&nbsp;Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an&nbsp;Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictCool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue are among the most common grasses needing attention, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini, who shares the following maintenance calendar:March Spot treat broadleaf weeds, if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness.April Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products commonly available.May Fertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in.If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole during May or anytime from May through June for imidacloprid. These products work to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with ¼ inch of water.June through Mid-July Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application.Late-July through August If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops.September Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer if rainfall does not occur.November Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Use label rates for all products. Domenghini reminds homeowners that using best practices for turf management is the most effective way to manage their lawn. “This includes watering only when needed and only applying as much as needed. Deep, infrequent watering is more efficient than frequent, shallow watering. Excessive fertilizer does not equal a healthier lawn and follow recommendations for lawn height when mowing." She also recommends getting the soil tested to determine nutrient levels. The best start to a healthy lawn is healthy soil.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: As lawns turn green, controlling weeds, applying fertilizer is important

By MICHELLE BERAN Cottonwood Extension District

We often associate 4-H projects with the county fair but there is so much more to the 4-H year!

The 4-H year begins in October and youth select several projects to explore and increase their knowledge and skills. 

During winter months, this project work can involve working with a beef or swine animal to begin growing, learning about health, and start handling the animal so that it is familiar with the 4-H member. 

Project work for the foods project may involve learning new skills such as measuring or using a sharp knife, and helping make meals for the family. 

Photography members can have incredible opportunities to experiment with light, shadows, and composition with the variety of weather that Kansas provides! 

Additionally, club members are taking on new leadership roles in their club and improving their communication skills at each meeting.

As we move into spring, livestock projects such as sheep and goats take off as those animals are born or purchased and youth will be learning about nutrition, animal health, and showmanship skills. 

Photography becomes even more fun as 4-H youth can explore subjects such as animals, insects, or landscapes as we can spend more time outside. 

This is the time that horticulture projects really get busy as youth work on preparing garden space and selecting seeds or plants.

This past Friday, 4-H members from seven counties gathered at Great Bend High School for Regional 4-H Day. 

Each participant was the top placing individual or group in a variety of categories from club skits to project talks to public speaking. Preparing for their local event requires good preparation and planning, as well as a lot of practice as they improve their communication skills about a topic important to the individual youth.

Throughout the year, youth learn record keeping by working on Project Records which include setting goals, learning opportunities, project work, and financial records.

Communication, Leadership, and Community Engagement are all 4-H project areas but there is a piece of each of these in every 4-H project!&nbsp;These are lifetime skills that help youth be good family members, good employees, and good community members.

Keep learning! Keep showing grace and kindness!

Michelle Beran is the 4-H Youth Development Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other 4-H Youth Development resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2022/11/1668179445671.jpeg" alt="Michelle Beran, 4-H Youth Development Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Michelle Beran, 4-H Youth Development Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By MICHELLE BERAN Cottonwood Extension DistrictWe often associate 4-H projects with the county fair but there is so much more to the 4-H year!The 4-H year begins in October and youth select several projects to explore and increase their knowledge and skills. During winter months, this project work can involve working with a beef or swine animal to begin growing, learning about health, and start handling the animal so that it is familiar with the 4-H member. Project work for the foods project may involve learning new skills such as measuring or using a sharp knife, and helping make meals for the family. Photography members can have incredible opportunities to experiment with light, shadows, and composition with the variety of weather that Kansas provides! Additionally, club members are taking on new leadership roles in their club and improving their communication skills at each meeting.As we move into spring, livestock projects such as sheep and goats take off as those animals are born or purchased and youth will be learning about nutrition, animal health, and showmanship skills. Photography becomes even more fun as 4-H youth can explore subjects such as animals, insects, or landscapes as we can spend more time outside. This is the time that horticulture projects really get busy as youth work on preparing garden space and selecting seeds or plants.This past Friday, 4-H members from seven counties gathered at Great Bend High School for Regional 4-H Day. Each participant was the top placing individual or group in a variety of categories from club skits to project talks to public speaking. Preparing for their local event requires good preparation and planning, as well as a lot of practice as they improve their communication skills about a topic important to the individual youth.Throughout the year, youth learn record keeping by working on Project Records which include setting goals, learning opportunities, project work, and financial records.Communication, Leadership, and Community Engagement are all 4-H project areas but there is a piece of each of these in every 4-H project!&nbsp;These are lifetime skills that help youth be good family members, good employees, and good community members.Keep learning! Keep showing grace and kindness!Michelle Beran is the 4-H Youth Development Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other 4-H Youth Development resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.

BERAN: Life skills all year

&nbsp;By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

Most gardeners think soil testing only determines nutrient deficiencies, but the tests also help gardeners understand whether the soil contains adequate nutrients. Basic tests check the soil’s pH, as well as the phosphorus and potassium levels.

“Most of the lawn and garden soil tests that come out of our soil-testing lab (at Kansas State University) show more than adequate levels of both phosphorus and potassium,” K-State horticultural expert Cynthia Domenghini said. “If those nutrients are not needed, applying them is a waste of money and can be a source of pollution.”

Domenghini urges gardeners to test their garden’s soil before beginning spring gardening, particularly if the soil hasn’t been tested in several years.

To do so, she says, take a sample from multiple locations in the garden and lawn. Samples should be taken at a depth between the surface and eight inches, depending on the area being sampled. Next, mix the samples together to total one pint of soil.

More information on taking an accurate soil test is available online from the&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.agronomy.k-state.edu/outreach-and-services/soil-testing-lab/soil-analysis/producers-and-homeowners.html">K-State Agronomy Soil Analysis lab.</a>

<a target="_blank" href="https://www.agronomy.k-state.edu/outreach-and-services/soil-testing-lab/soil-analysis/producers-and-homeowners.html"></a>According to Domenghini, the soil sample can then be submitted to your&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>&nbsp;to have tests done at the K-State soil testing laboratory for a fee.

“A soil test determines fertility problems, not other conditions that may exist, such as poor drainage, poor soil structure, soil borne diseases or insects, chemical contaminants or damage,” Domenghini said. “All of these conditions may reduce plant performance but cannot be evaluated by a soil test.”Domenghini recommends submitting dry soil samples, as wet soil has different precautions.

“Wet soil samples should be air-dried before being submitted for testing,” Domenghini said. “Do not use artificial means of drying such as an oven or microwave as such treatment may result in inaccurate readings of nutrient levels.”

Soil tests should be used as a tool to identify nutrient deficiencies, Domenghini said, but often they do not tell the whole story of other factors affecting plant growth.

Additional factors that can affect plant growth include: · Not enough sun. · Poor soil physical characteristics. · Walnut trees (walnuts give off a natural herbicide that interferes with the growth of some plants, such as tomatoes). · Tree roots. · Shallow soils. · Improper watering.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District, which includes Barton and Ellis counties, for K-State Research and Extension. You may contact her by email at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/2/1739899719761.png" alt="Soil sampling. Photo courtesy K-State Research and Extension" />
 <figcaption>Soil sampling. Photo courtesy K-State Research and Extension</figcaption>
 </figure>&nbsp;By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictMost gardeners think soil testing only determines nutrient deficiencies, but the tests also help gardeners understand whether the soil contains adequate nutrients. Basic tests check the soil’s pH, as well as the phosphorus and potassium levels.“Most of the lawn and garden soil tests that come out of our soil-testing lab (at Kansas State University) show more than adequate levels of both phosphorus and potassium,” K-State horticultural expert Cynthia Domenghini said. “If those nutrients are not needed, applying them is a waste of money and can be a source of pollution.”Domenghini urges gardeners to test their garden’s soil before beginning spring gardening, particularly if the soil hasn’t been tested in several years.To do so, she says, take a sample from multiple locations in the garden and lawn. Samples should be taken at a depth between the surface and eight inches, depending on the area being sampled. Next, mix the samples together to total one pint of soil.More information on taking an accurate soil test is available online from the&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.agronomy.k-state.edu/outreach-and-services/soil-testing-lab/soil-analysis/producers-and-homeowners.html">K-State Agronomy Soil Analysis lab.</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.agronomy.k-state.edu/outreach-and-services/soil-testing-lab/soil-analysis/producers-and-homeowners.html"></a>According to Domenghini, the soil sample can then be submitted to your&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>&nbsp;to have tests done at the K-State soil testing laboratory for a fee.“A soil test determines fertility problems, not other conditions that may exist, such as poor drainage, poor soil structure, soil borne diseases or insects, chemical contaminants or damage,” Domenghini said. “All of these conditions may reduce plant performance but cannot be evaluated by a soil test.”Domenghini recommends submitting dry soil samples, as wet soil has different precautions.“Wet soil samples should be air-dried before being submitted for testing,” Domenghini said. “Do not use artificial means of drying such as an oven or microwave as such treatment may result in inaccurate readings of nutrient levels.”Soil tests should be used as a tool to identify nutrient deficiencies, Domenghini said, but often they do not tell the whole story of other factors affecting plant growth.Additional factors that can affect plant growth include: · Not enough sun. · Poor soil physical characteristics. · Walnut trees (walnuts give off a natural herbicide that interferes with the growth of some plants, such as tomatoes). · Tree roots. · Shallow soils. · Improper watering.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District, which includes Barton and Ellis counties, for K-State Research and Extension. You may contact her by email at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Column soil testing

&nbsp;By JAY HARRIS Cottonwood Extension District

Whether you're a seasoned local food producer, just starting out, or simply curious about growing and selling local food, the Local Food Producer Workshop is for you! Join us on Friday, February 28 at the Hays Agricultural Research Center for a day full of learning, sharing, and connecting with others who care about local food and community.

The Kansas Local Food Systems program, administered by K-State Research and Extension, has joined with the Kansas Department of Agriculture to offer a series of workshops for local food producers. 

“One of the things we learned from a series of community roundtables we held last year is that there is a great need to support local food entrepreneurs, especially when it comes to navigating regulations, increasing their marketing skills, and reaching new markets for their products,” said Rebecca McMahon, administrator of the Kansas Local Food System program.

“These workshops are a great way to reach a range of farmers and small food businesses around the state that want to sell their products directly to consumers.”

Lindahl notes that the workshop also helps local food producers build a network of other food producers in Kansas.

“I believe that the direct-to-consumer market provides opportunities for farmers and ranchers to capture more value for their products, ultimately making more profitable operations for Kansas producers,” Lindahl said.

• Inspiring Local Stories – Learn from area producers like Bryttni Miller (Yucca Flats Cattle Co.) and Matt Bender (Harvest Hays) as they share their successes and challenges.

• A Delicious Local Lunch – Enjoy a meal prepared by Chef Austin Petz from Verdant Bistro, who will share how he incorporates locally grown food into his menu.

• Farm-to-School Opportunities – Discover ways to connect with schools and provide fresh, local food, with insights from Jay Harris, District Director and Horticulture Agent.

• Practical Sessions – Topics include marketing, food safety, sales tax regulations, and building strong community partnerships.

The workshop is designed to be informative, welcoming, and accessible to everyone – no matter your experience level. It’s a great way to learn something new, make connections, and feel more confident about growing and selling local food.

Walk-ins are welcome! However, early registration is encouraged, as space is limited. Visit <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/2025-hays-local-food-producers-workshop-registration-1084754212049?aff=oddtdtcreator">www.ksre.k-state.edu/kansaslocalfoods</a> for details and to sign up. The event is open to producers, consumers, and anyone interested in strengthening the local food economy in Northwest Kansas.

Jay Harris is the District Director and Horticulture Extension agent in the Cottonwood District, which includes Barton and Ellis counties, for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at jayharris@ksu.edu or by calling 785-628-9430.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/2/1740062106567.png" alt="K-State Research and Extension" />
 <figcaption>K-State Research and Extension</figcaption>
 </figure>&nbsp;By JAY HARRIS Cottonwood Extension DistrictWhether you're a seasoned local food producer, just starting out, or simply curious about growing and selling local food, the Local Food Producer Workshop is for you! Join us on Friday, February 28 at the Hays Agricultural Research Center for a day full of learning, sharing, and connecting with others who care about local food and community.The Kansas Local Food Systems program, administered by K-State Research and Extension, has joined with the Kansas Department of Agriculture to offer a series of workshops for local food producers. “One of the things we learned from a series of community roundtables we held last year is that there is a great need to support local food entrepreneurs, especially when it comes to navigating regulations, increasing their marketing skills, and reaching new markets for their products,” said Rebecca McMahon, administrator of the Kansas Local Food System program.“These workshops are a great way to reach a range of farmers and small food businesses around the state that want to sell their products directly to consumers.”Lindahl notes that the workshop also helps local food producers build a network of other food producers in Kansas.“I believe that the direct-to-consumer market provides opportunities for farmers and ranchers to capture more value for their products, ultimately making more profitable operations for Kansas producers,” Lindahl said.What’s in Store?• Inspiring Local Stories – Learn from area producers like Bryttni Miller (Yucca Flats Cattle Co.) and Matt Bender (Harvest Hays) as they share their successes and challenges.• A Delicious Local Lunch – Enjoy a meal prepared by Chef Austin Petz from Verdant Bistro, who will share how he incorporates locally grown food into his menu.• Farm-to-School Opportunities – Discover ways to connect with schools and provide fresh, local food, with insights from Jay Harris, District Director and Horticulture Agent.• Practical Sessions – Topics include marketing, food safety, sales tax regulations, and building strong community partnerships.The workshop is designed to be informative, welcoming, and accessible to everyone – no matter your experience level. It’s a great way to learn something new, make connections, and feel more confident about growing and selling local food.Registration Details Walk-ins are welcome! However, early registration is encouraged, as space is limited. Visit <a href="https://www.eventbrite.com/e/2025-hays-local-food-producers-workshop-registration-1084754212049?aff=oddtdtcreator">www.ksre.k-state.edu/kansaslocalfoods</a> for details and to sign up. The event is open to producers, consumers, and anyone interested in strengthening the local food economy in Northwest Kansas.Jay Harris is the District Director and Horticulture Extension agent in the Cottonwood District, which includes Barton and Ellis counties, for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at jayharris@ksu.edu or by calling 785-628-9430.

Local food producer workshop set for February 28 in Hays

Many people receive Valentine’s Day gifts from loved ones, especially roses, but the flowers decline shortly after Feb. 14. 

Kansas State University horticulture expert, Cynthia Domenghini offers guidelines to extend the life of floral arrangements and loose stems.

“For floral arrangements, keep the vase filled or floral foam soaked with warm water,” Domenghini said. “Add fresh, warm water daily and if the water turns cloudy, replace it immediately.”

Domenghini suggests recutting loose stems every time water is replaced by removing 1-2 inches with a sharp knife, under water to allow the stem to draw water instead of air.

“Keep flowers in a cool spot (65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit), away from direct sunlight, heating or cooling vents, directly under ceiling fans, or near radiators,” Domenghini said.

For loose stems, begin by filling a clean, deep vase with water and add the flower food obtained from your florist.

“Remove leaves that will be below the waterline. Leaves in water will promote bacterial growth,” Domenghini said, “Stems should be cut immediately before putting them in water.”

If you cannot get flowers in a food solution right away, keep them cool, Domenghini added.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/2/1738772649661.png" alt="Photo by Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Photo by Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>&nbsp;By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictMany people receive Valentine’s Day gifts from loved ones, especially roses, but the flowers decline shortly after Feb. 14. Kansas State University horticulture expert, Cynthia Domenghini offers guidelines to extend the life of floral arrangements and loose stems.“For floral arrangements, keep the vase filled or floral foam soaked with warm water,” Domenghini said. “Add fresh, warm water daily and if the water turns cloudy, replace it immediately.”Domenghini suggests recutting loose stems every time water is replaced by removing 1-2 inches with a sharp knife, under water to allow the stem to draw water instead of air.“Keep flowers in a cool spot (65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit), away from direct sunlight, heating or cooling vents, directly under ceiling fans, or near radiators,” Domenghini said.For loose stems, begin by filling a clean, deep vase with water and add the flower food obtained from your florist.“Remove leaves that will be below the waterline. Leaves in water will promote bacterial growth,” Domenghini said, “Stems should be cut immediately before putting them in water.”If you cannot get flowers in a food solution right away, keep them cool, Domenghini added.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District, which includes Barton and Ellis counties, for K-State Research and Extension. You may contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.