By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

I always love the changing of the seasons, especially summer to fall. After the heat of the summer, the cool, crisp mornings and cooler days makes me happy. 

One of the first signs that I can tell that summer is on its way out is the first leaves on the cottonwood trees starting to turn yellow. The reds and oranges of the maples and oaks quickly follow suite. Although the New England states is the place to view the changing of the seasons, Kansas is no slouch. 

I found an article this week for you for the Horticulture Department about why trees change the colors they do and how you get the striking colors of fall.&nbsp;Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.

Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.&nbsp;

If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.&nbsp;

Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.&nbsp;

Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.

The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/4/1777344220434.jpg" alt="Photo by Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Photo by Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District I always love the changing of the seasons, especially summer to fall. After the heat of the summer, the cool, crisp mornings and cooler days makes me happy. One of the first signs that I can tell that summer is on its way out is the first leaves on the cottonwood trees starting to turn yellow. The reds and oranges of the maples and oaks quickly follow suite. Although the New England states is the place to view the changing of the seasons, Kansas is no slouch. I found an article this week for you for the Horticulture Department about why trees change the colors they do and how you get the striking colors of fall.&nbsp;Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.&nbsp;If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.&nbsp;Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.&nbsp;Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910

BOOR: The changing colors of fall

By ALICIA BOOR K-State Extension, Cottonwood District Cool-season grasses, like the tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass lawns common to many parts of Kansas, have had about enough of summer.

The state’s high temperatures – 100 degrees and higher in many parts – and sporadic rainfall often cause cool-season varieties to become thin by summer’s end. September typically signals a good time to replenish those stands, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.

“When overseeding, start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1 ½ inches) and removing the clippings,” he said. “This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings.”

Then, he says, check the lawn’s layer of thatch – an organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems and roots that develops between the zone of green vegetation and the soil surface.

“Normally, we’d want ¼ inch of thatch or less when overseeding,” McKernan said. “If the thatch layer is ¾ inch or more, it is usually easier to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than ¾ inch, but more than ¼ inch.”

Once thatch is under control, McKernan said homeowners can use a hand rake to roughen up soil in small areas. For larger areas, he suggests either a verticutter, slit seeder or core aerator machine.

“A verticutter machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows into the soil that seed can later be broadcast into,” he said. “A slit seeder is a verticutter machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined.”

By contrast, a core aerator literally punches holes in the soil, depositing the cores on the surface of the ground.

“Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth,” McKernan said. “Make 3-4 passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed, with holes ideally spaced approximately every 3 inches.”

A core aerator also reduces the amount of water needed to germinate the seed. Aeration increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil.

“Of the three methods (for large areas), the slit seeder is favored for obtaining good seed to soil contact,” McKernan said. “However, if watering is difficult or soil conditions are poor, core aeration may be a better option.”

McKernan noted that fertilizer should be applied to the lawn at rates suggested on the bag, regardless of which overseeding method is used.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682262753.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor, file photo" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor, file photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR K-State Extension, Cottonwood District Cool-season grasses, like the tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass lawns common to many parts of Kansas, have had about enough of summer.The state’s high temperatures – 100 degrees and higher in many parts – and sporadic rainfall often cause cool-season varieties to become thin by summer’s end. September typically signals a good time to replenish those stands, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.“When overseeding, start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1 ½ inches) and removing the clippings,” he said. “This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings.”Then, he says, check the lawn’s layer of thatch – an organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems and roots that develops between the zone of green vegetation and the soil surface.“Normally, we’d want ¼ inch of thatch or less when overseeding,” McKernan said. “If the thatch layer is ¾ inch or more, it is usually easier to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than ¾ inch, but more than ¼ inch.”Preparing the soilOnce thatch is under control, McKernan said homeowners can use a hand rake to roughen up soil in small areas. For larger areas, he suggests either a verticutter, slit seeder or core aerator machine.“A verticutter machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows into the soil that seed can later be broadcast into,” he said. “A slit seeder is a verticutter machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined.”By contrast, a core aerator literally punches holes in the soil, depositing the cores on the surface of the ground.“Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth,” McKernan said. “Make 3-4 passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed, with holes ideally spaced approximately every 3 inches.”A core aerator also reduces the amount of water needed to germinate the seed. Aeration increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil.“Of the three methods (for large areas), the slit seeder is favored for obtaining good seed to soil contact,” McKernan said. “However, if watering is difficult or soil conditions are poor, core aeration may be a better option.”McKernan noted that fertilizer should be applied to the lawn at rates suggested on the bag, regardless of which overseeding method is used.

BOOR: September Lawns

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension&nbsp;

It’s common for vegetables like squash, cucumbers and melons to produce flowers but no fruit, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.

“Most squash, cucumbers and melons have separate male and female flowers on each plant,” McKernan said. “Female flowers have a swollen area beneath the petals while male flowers have a narrow base. Usually, predominately male flowers appear first in the growing season, with the number of female flowers increasing after a few weeks of flowers.”

McKernan suggests checking garden plants to see if both flower types are present. If male and female flowers are present, observe the area for pollinators.

“If few to no pollinators are present, vegetables with separate male and female flowers may not produce fruit due to lack of pollination,” McKernan said.

To pollinate the flowers, use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to the stigma of the female flower. McKernan recommends marking that flower and making note of whether it is the only one that sets fruit. If this is the case, the problem is likely a lack of pollinators.

He added that pollinator activity can be inhibited by weather.

“Pollinators are less active on cold or rainy days. The use of insecticides can also harm pollinators. If pesticides are used in the garden, apply them in the evening when pollinators are less active and the flowers have closed for the day,” McKernan said.

Additionally, high temperatures can cause vegetables to drop their blossoms prematurely.

“Tomatoes will stop producing fruit in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Production will resume once temperatures decrease,” he said.

McKernan said it is important to ensure plants are receiving adequate water during this time.

“Applying nitrogen promotes vigorous vegetative growth. However, excessive amounts can inhibit flower and fruit production. Follow fertilizer recommendations to avoid this,” he said.

“It is also very important to provide adequate sunlight and consistent moisture to vegetable plants,” McKernan added. “Too much shade can limit flower production, and dry soils also can lead to blossom drop. Over watering and under watering can both lead to root damage, limiting water uptake needed for good fruit set. Monitor soil moisture closely, especially when vegetables are grown in containers.”

McKernan and his colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter</a> with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">view online</a> or can be delivered by email each week.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/7/1784749528347.jpeg" alt="Squash blossom. Photo courtesy University of Maryland Extension&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Squash blossom. Photo courtesy University of Maryland Extension&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension&nbsp;It’s common for vegetables like squash, cucumbers and melons to produce flowers but no fruit, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.“Most squash, cucumbers and melons have separate male and female flowers on each plant,” McKernan said. “Female flowers have a swollen area beneath the petals while male flowers have a narrow base. Usually, predominately male flowers appear first in the growing season, with the number of female flowers increasing after a few weeks of flowers.”McKernan suggests checking garden plants to see if both flower types are present. If male and female flowers are present, observe the area for pollinators.“If few to no pollinators are present, vegetables with separate male and female flowers may not produce fruit due to lack of pollination,” McKernan said.To pollinate the flowers, use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to the stigma of the female flower. McKernan recommends marking that flower and making note of whether it is the only one that sets fruit. If this is the case, the problem is likely a lack of pollinators.He added that pollinator activity can be inhibited by weather.“Pollinators are less active on cold or rainy days. The use of insecticides can also harm pollinators. If pesticides are used in the garden, apply them in the evening when pollinators are less active and the flowers have closed for the day,” McKernan said.Additionally, high temperatures can cause vegetables to drop their blossoms prematurely.“Tomatoes will stop producing fruit in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Production will resume once temperatures decrease,” he said.McKernan said it is important to ensure plants are receiving adequate water during this time.“Applying nitrogen promotes vigorous vegetative growth. However, excessive amounts can inhibit flower and fruit production. Follow fertilizer recommendations to avoid this,” he said.“It is also very important to provide adequate sunlight and consistent moisture to vegetable plants,” McKernan added. “Too much shade can limit flower production, and dry soils also can lead to blossom drop. Over watering and under watering can both lead to root damage, limiting water uptake needed for good fruit set. Monitor soil moisture closely, especially when vegetables are grown in containers.”McKernan and his colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter</a> with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">view online</a> or can be delivered by email each week.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: When vegetable plants produce flowers, but no fruit 

By ALICIA BOOR K-State Cottonwood Extension&nbsp;

MANHATTAN – It may be mid-summer, but veteran gardeners know it’s time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.&nbsp;

“Fall gardens may face additional pressures of pests and heat, but the flavor that comes from these late season crops are often better (than summer crops),” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.&nbsp;

He notes that gardeners should count the number of days to harvest, as well as the crops’ tolerance to frost, before deciding when to plant fall crops. Crops may be seeded directly or transplanted into the garden.&nbsp;

“Growing transplants is a good choice when the temperature is too warm for starting seeds in the ground, assuming you have grow lights and space available for starting them indoors,” McKernan said.&nbsp;

He provides some tips for successful fall crops:&nbsp;

· When seeding crops directly into the garden, plant slightly deeper than recommended in the spring to take advantage of the cooler soil temperatures and moisture available.&nbsp;

· Water more frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out.&nbsp;

· Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge. Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of vermiculite or compost over the row after seeding, or by using a soak hose or drip irrigation right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the soil.&nbsp;

McKernan also suggests a timeline for planting fall crops:&nbsp;

Plant potatoes if you can find seed stock or have saved seed potatoes. Do not use freshly dug potatoes, as they are in built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, grocery store potatoes are often treated so they don’t sprout.&nbsp;

Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower transplants can be started from seed at this time. Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them. This will not be where they will grow the entire season; these crops will be transplanted in August.&nbsp;

Seed beets, carrots and beans directly into the garden.

Seed spinach and long-season-maturing lettuce in the garden. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;

Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.&nbsp;

Direct seed radishes and leaf lettuce. There is no need to fertilize these crops before planting. Side-dress two weeks after transplanting or four weeks after sowing seed by applying two tablespoons of a 16-0-0 fertilizer or one tablespoon of a 27-3-3 or 30-3-4 fertilizer (or something similar) per plant.&nbsp;

More information about fall gardening is available in the Kansas Garden Guide, available online from the K-State Extension bookstore.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or by calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682229509.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor photo, File photo" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor photo, File photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR K-State Cottonwood Extension&nbsp;MANHATTAN – It may be mid-summer, but veteran gardeners know it’s time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.&nbsp;“Fall gardens may face additional pressures of pests and heat, but the flavor that comes from these late season crops are often better (than summer crops),” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.&nbsp;He notes that gardeners should count the number of days to harvest, as well as the crops’ tolerance to frost, before deciding when to plant fall crops. Crops may be seeded directly or transplanted into the garden.&nbsp;“Growing transplants is a good choice when the temperature is too warm for starting seeds in the ground, assuming you have grow lights and space available for starting them indoors,” McKernan said.&nbsp;He provides some tips for successful fall crops:&nbsp;· When seeding crops directly into the garden, plant slightly deeper than recommended in the spring to take advantage of the cooler soil temperatures and moisture available.&nbsp;· Water more frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out.&nbsp;· Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge. Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of vermiculite or compost over the row after seeding, or by using a soak hose or drip irrigation right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the soil.&nbsp;McKernan also suggests a timeline for planting fall crops:&nbsp;Mid-July&nbsp;Plant potatoes if you can find seed stock or have saved seed potatoes. Do not use freshly dug potatoes, as they are in built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, grocery store potatoes are often treated so they don’t sprout.&nbsp;Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower transplants can be started from seed at this time. Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them. This will not be where they will grow the entire season; these crops will be transplanted in August.&nbsp;Late July&nbsp;Seed beets, carrots and beans directly into the garden.Late July to early August&nbsp;Seed spinach and long-season-maturing lettuce in the garden. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;Second week of August&nbsp;Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.&nbsp;Mid to late August&nbsp;Direct seed radishes and leaf lettuce. There is no need to fertilize these crops before planting. Side-dress two weeks after transplanting or four weeks after sowing seed by applying two tablespoons of a 16-0-0 fertilizer or one tablespoon of a 27-3-3 or 30-3-4 fertilizer (or something similar) per plant.&nbsp;More information about fall gardening is available in the Kansas Garden Guide, available online from the K-State Extension bookstore.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or by calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Fall crops may be seeded directly or transplanted

K-State Extension news service4-H Youth Development

MANHATTAN, Kan. – The Kansas 4-H Youth Development program has recognized 34 youth as state project award recipients.&nbsp;

"Being a state project recipient is a reflection of a young person's dedication, growth, and commitment to making a difference — not just in their project area, but in their community and beyond," said Sarah Maass, state leader for the Kansas 4-H program.&nbsp;

"These young people do not just develop skills within their projects; they lead, they serve, and they inspire others along the way. From organizing community service initiatives to mentoring younger 4-H members, state project winners demonstrate what it truly means to be Beyond Ready," Maass said.&nbsp;

One state winner is selected yearly from the senior division (ages 14-18) in 45 project categories. Kansas 4-H youth submit a project report form, which is a summary of their work in a certain project.&nbsp;

"What sets these award winners apart is the full picture they present," Maass noted. "Yes, they have mastered their project skills, but they have also shown remarkable growth in leadership, civic engagement, communication and their ability to organize and inspire those around them. That combination is what 4-H is all about."&nbsp;

This year’s award recipients, in alphabetical order by county or extension district, are:&nbsp;

Jackson Strecker, Butler County – Dairy Goats&nbsp;

Garrett Dunn, 21 Central District – Civic Engagement&nbsp;

Annabelle Lehmann, Coffey County – Woodworking&nbsp;

Taryn Vogts, Coffey County – Pets&nbsp;

Russell Kern, Cottonwood District – Foods &amp; Nutrition&nbsp;

Samantha Negaard, Cottonwood District – Performing Arts&nbsp;

Anthony Jelinek, Cowley County - Agronomy&nbsp;

Braden Gillespie, Frontier District – Sheep&nbsp;

Caroline Brethour, Johnson County – Health &amp; Wellness&nbsp;

George Delancy, Johnson County – Leadership&nbsp;

Joshua Eflin, Johnson County – Computer Science&nbsp;

Iris Schrotberger, Johnson County – Sewing &amp; Textile Design&nbsp;

Emilia Barr, Kearney County – Shopping in Style&nbsp;

Mason Jenkins, Lyon County – Swine&nbsp;

Will Hardwick, Marais des Cygnes District – Electric &amp; Renewable Energy&nbsp;

Conway Patrick, McPherson County – Photography&nbsp;

Aurora Hoffman, Meadowlark District – Shooting Sports&nbsp;

Carina Johnson, Meadowlark District – Poultry&nbsp;

Harry Langill, Meadowlark District – Veterinary Science&nbsp;

Robert Langill, Meadowlark District – Dairy Cattle&nbsp;

Danielle Reeves, Meadowlark District – Dog&nbsp;

Ella Sourk, Meadowlark District – Horticulture &amp; Landscape Design&nbsp;

Grayson Maxwell, Pawnee County – Self Determined&nbsp;

Taylor Bryant, Pottawatomie County – Entomology&nbsp;

Josie Heter, Reno County – Communications&nbsp;

Kate Bormann, Riley County – Horse&nbsp;

Sean Morgan, River Valley District – Meat Goats&nbsp;

Jonathan Wright, River Valley District – Rabbits&nbsp;

Victor Harding, Sedgwick County – Reading Adventures&nbsp;

Chris Mork, Sedgwick County – Geology&nbsp;

Corbin Russell, Wabaunsee County – Visual Arts&nbsp;

Kealie Bryant, West Plains District – Fiber Arts&nbsp;

Kamryn Kirkham, Wild West District – Beef&nbsp;

Tatum Francis, Wildcat District – Wildlife&nbsp;

Award recipients were recognized during the Emerald Circle celebration, which was hosted for the first time this year by the State 4-H Office with funding provided by the Kansas 4-H Foundation. Officials say each recipient’s project report forms progress through county, regional and statewide evaluations before the state winner in each project area is named.&nbsp;

“We also know our 4-H members’ success does not come without the support of family, mentors, volunteers and extension agents who work with our 4-H youth on the local level. The youth/adult partnership is evident at this level and we’re grateful for the time our adults give to guide our 4-H youth,” said Amy Collins, program coordinator with Kansas 4-H.&nbsp;

State 4-H project award recipients are also eligible to attend the National 4-H Congress in Atlanta, Georgia, in November. Numerous donors provide support for the trip to the National 4-H Congress, through the Kansas 4-H Foundation.&nbsp;

More information about opportunities available through the Kansas 4-H Youth Development program is available online.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/7/1783002377091.jpg" alt="Image courtesy of Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Image courtesy of Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Extension news service4-H Youth DevelopmentMANHATTAN, Kan. – The Kansas 4-H Youth Development program has recognized 34 youth as state project award recipients.&nbsp;"Being a state project recipient is a reflection of a young person's dedication, growth, and commitment to making a difference — not just in their project area, but in their community and beyond," said Sarah Maass, state leader for the Kansas 4-H program.&nbsp;"These young people do not just develop skills within their projects; they lead, they serve, and they inspire others along the way. From organizing community service initiatives to mentoring younger 4-H members, state project winners demonstrate what it truly means to be Beyond Ready," Maass said.&nbsp;One state winner is selected yearly from the senior division (ages 14-18) in 45 project categories. Kansas 4-H youth submit a project report form, which is a summary of their work in a certain project.&nbsp;"What sets these award winners apart is the full picture they present," Maass noted. "Yes, they have mastered their project skills, but they have also shown remarkable growth in leadership, civic engagement, communication and their ability to organize and inspire those around them. That combination is what 4-H is all about."&nbsp;This year’s award recipients, in alphabetical order by county or extension district, are:&nbsp;Jackson Strecker, Butler County – Dairy Goats&nbsp;Garrett Dunn, 21 Central District – Civic Engagement&nbsp;Annabelle Lehmann, Coffey County – Woodworking&nbsp;Taryn Vogts, Coffey County – Pets&nbsp;Russell Kern, Cottonwood District – Foods &amp; Nutrition&nbsp;Samantha Negaard, Cottonwood District – Performing Arts&nbsp;Anthony Jelinek, Cowley County - Agronomy&nbsp;Braden Gillespie, Frontier District – Sheep&nbsp;Caroline Brethour, Johnson County – Health &amp; Wellness&nbsp;George Delancy, Johnson County – Leadership&nbsp;Joshua Eflin, Johnson County – Computer Science&nbsp;Iris Schrotberger, Johnson County – Sewing &amp; Textile Design&nbsp;Emilia Barr, Kearney County – Shopping in Style&nbsp;Mason Jenkins, Lyon County – Swine&nbsp;Will Hardwick, Marais des Cygnes District – Electric &amp; Renewable Energy&nbsp;Conway Patrick, McPherson County – Photography&nbsp;Aurora Hoffman, Meadowlark District – Shooting Sports&nbsp;Carina Johnson, Meadowlark District – Poultry&nbsp;Harry Langill, Meadowlark District – Veterinary Science&nbsp;Robert Langill, Meadowlark District – Dairy Cattle&nbsp;Danielle Reeves, Meadowlark District – Dog&nbsp;Ella Sourk, Meadowlark District – Horticulture &amp; Landscape Design&nbsp;Grayson Maxwell, Pawnee County – Self Determined&nbsp;Taylor Bryant, Pottawatomie County – Entomology&nbsp;Josie Heter, Reno County – Communications&nbsp;Kate Bormann, Riley County – Horse&nbsp;Sean Morgan, River Valley District – Meat Goats&nbsp;Jonathan Wright, River Valley District – Rabbits&nbsp;Victor Harding, Sedgwick County – Reading Adventures&nbsp;Chris Mork, Sedgwick County – Geology&nbsp;Corbin Russell, Wabaunsee County – Visual Arts&nbsp;Kealie Bryant, West Plains District – Fiber Arts&nbsp;Kamryn Kirkham, Wild West District – Beef&nbsp;Tatum Francis, Wildcat District – Wildlife&nbsp;Award recipients were recognized during the Emerald Circle celebration, which was hosted for the first time this year by the State 4-H Office with funding provided by the Kansas 4-H Foundation. Officials say each recipient’s project report forms progress through county, regional and statewide evaluations before the state winner in each project area is named.&nbsp;“We also know our 4-H members’ success does not come without the support of family, mentors, volunteers and extension agents who work with our 4-H youth on the local level. The youth/adult partnership is evident at this level and we’re grateful for the time our adults give to guide our 4-H youth,” said Amy Collins, program coordinator with Kansas 4-H.&nbsp;<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/7/1783002409146.jpeg" alt="Samantha Negaard, Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Samantha Negaard, Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>State 4-H project award recipients are also eligible to attend the National 4-H Congress in Atlanta, Georgia, in November. Numerous donors provide support for the trip to the National 4-H Congress, through the Kansas 4-H Foundation.&nbsp;<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/7/1783002458334.jpeg" alt="Russel Kern, Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Russel Kern, Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>More information about opportunities available through the Kansas 4-H Youth Development program is available online.

Kansas 4-H names state project award recipients

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

A healthy lawn may be the best defense homeowners have against invasive weeds, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, adding that proper maintenance can prevent many common weed problems before they begin.&nbsp;

“Weeds invading a home lawn can feel like an ongoing battle,” McKernan said. “Instead of constantly applying chemical treatments, homeowners should focus on growing strong, vigorous turfgrass that naturally crowds out weeds.”&nbsp;

McKernan said healthy grass competes with weeds for sunlight, water and nutrients, making it harder for unwanted plants to take hold. He noted that many weed problems stem from common lawn care mistakes that weaken turfgrass and create opportunities for weeds to spread.&nbsp;

One of the most common problems is mowing grass too short. McKernan said scalping the lawn weakens turfgrass and allows more sunlight to reach weed seeds, encouraging germination. He recommends mowing at the proper height for the grass species, keeping mower blades sharp and avoiding mowing when grass is wet.&nbsp;

Watering practices also play a significant role in lawn health. Frequent, shallow watering encourages shallow root systems and can increase weed pressure, McKernan said.&nbsp;

Instead, homeowners should water deeply and less often to promote stronger roots and improve drought tolerance. During spring, irrigation should only occur when necessary.&nbsp;

Other factors that may lead to an unhealthy lawn include:

McKernan said a proactive approach focused on lawn health is more effective and sustainable than relying solely on herbicides.&nbsp;

“A dense, healthy lawn is the first line of defense against weeds,” he said.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682229509.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo " />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo </figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictA healthy lawn may be the best defense homeowners have against invasive weeds, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, adding that proper maintenance can prevent many common weed problems before they begin.&nbsp;“Weeds invading a home lawn can feel like an ongoing battle,” McKernan said. “Instead of constantly applying chemical treatments, homeowners should focus on growing strong, vigorous turfgrass that naturally crowds out weeds.”&nbsp;McKernan said healthy grass competes with weeds for sunlight, water and nutrients, making it harder for unwanted plants to take hold. He noted that many weed problems stem from common lawn care mistakes that weaken turfgrass and create opportunities for weeds to spread.&nbsp;One of the most common problems is mowing grass too short. McKernan said scalping the lawn weakens turfgrass and allows more sunlight to reach weed seeds, encouraging germination. He recommends mowing at the proper height for the grass species, keeping mower blades sharp and avoiding mowing when grass is wet.&nbsp;Watering practices also play a significant role in lawn health. Frequent, shallow watering encourages shallow root systems and can increase weed pressure, McKernan said.&nbsp;Instead, homeowners should water deeply and less often to promote stronger roots and improve drought tolerance. During spring, irrigation should only occur when necessary.&nbsp;Other factors that may lead to an unhealthy lawn include:<ul>
 <li>Improper fertilizing. Fertilizing too much or too little or at the wrong time may benefit weeds more than grass. Only fertilize during the recommended months, only apply what is needed, and conduct a soil test to better understand fertilizer needs.&nbsp;</li><li>Compacted soil. Soil compaction is a hidden stress on the turfgrass root system. The grass is unable to compete effectively with weeds. Core aerate lawns at least once per year to reduce compaction.&nbsp;</li><li>Excessive wear. Turf areas used for recreation, sports and pets are subject to wear and compaction. Core aerate to reduce compaction in these areas, and temporarily fence off areas when establishing new grass seed.&nbsp;</li><li>Wrong kind of grass. The wrong variety for the location will gradually decline and be invaded by weeds. Always check the grass seed label before purchasing to evaluate the types of grass seeds included in the bag. Purchase only recommended types of turf, avoiding cheap fillers.&nbsp;</li><li>Environmental stress. Weeds often take over a lawn after it has been weakened and thinned from weather-related stress. Water appropriately during times of drought and avoid overwatering in the spring and fall. Evaluate irrigation water quality and soil nutrient levels by testing.&nbsp;</li><li>Thatch. Excessive thatch causes shallow-rooted grass, limits water infiltration and contributes to insect and disease problems. Regularly monitor thatch accumulation and remove excessive thatch when necessary.</li>
 </ul>McKernan said a proactive approach focused on lawn health is more effective and sustainable than relying solely on herbicides.&nbsp;“A dense, healthy lawn is the first line of defense against weeds,” he said.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;.

BOOR: Weed control in your lawn

By: ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District Rabbits are a common invader of home gardens, especially when plants flower in spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said there are many common-sense ways to keep the hungry critters out.&nbsp;

“This time of year, rabbits gravitate to young vegetables and flowers,” McKernan said. “But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered, including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers and some peppers.”&nbsp;

Matt McKernan said some methods for keeping rabbits away include:&nbsp;

Fencing is often the quickest and easiest method of control. McKernan recommended the fence be at least two feet tall with a fine mesh of one inch or less. Fencing support can be provided by a variety of products, including electric fence posts. However, fencing may not be a viable choice based on the desired appearance of the garden.&nbsp;

Floating row cover is a light woven material that can be placed over plants yet still allows light, water and air to come through.&nbsp;

“Though most often used to promote early growth by keeping plants warmer than normal, it can also help protect young plants from insects and wildlife,” McKernan said.&nbsp;

Although commonly suggested for rabbit control, repellants must be re-applied frequently. Some can also be poisonous and cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption, McKernan warned.&nbsp;

McKernan said live traps are usually recommended when the rabbit can be moved to a rural area several miles away from where they were initially caught.&nbsp;

“A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap, including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together by a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.”&nbsp;

A motion-activated sprinkler can be attached to a garden hose, releasing a short burst of water upon motion. McKernan suggests picking a product that advertises it can protect at least 1000 square feet: “Such products are available from Contech, Orbit and Havahart,” he said.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910

K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682262753.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp; " />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp; </figcaption>
 </figure>By: ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District Rabbits are a common invader of home gardens, especially when plants flower in spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said there are many common-sense ways to keep the hungry critters out.&nbsp;“This time of year, rabbits gravitate to young vegetables and flowers,” McKernan said. “But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered, including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers and some peppers.”&nbsp;Matt McKernan said some methods for keeping rabbits away include:&nbsp;Fencing&nbsp;Fencing is often the quickest and easiest method of control. McKernan recommended the fence be at least two feet tall with a fine mesh of one inch or less. Fencing support can be provided by a variety of products, including electric fence posts. However, fencing may not be a viable choice based on the desired appearance of the garden.&nbsp;Floating Row Cover&nbsp;Floating row cover is a light woven material that can be placed over plants yet still allows light, water and air to come through.&nbsp;“Though most often used to promote early growth by keeping plants warmer than normal, it can also help protect young plants from insects and wildlife,” McKernan said.&nbsp;Repellants&nbsp;Although commonly suggested for rabbit control, repellants must be re-applied frequently. Some can also be poisonous and cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption, McKernan warned.&nbsp;TrappingMcKernan said live traps are usually recommended when the rabbit can be moved to a rural area several miles away from where they were initially caught.&nbsp;“A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap, including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together by a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.”&nbsp;Sprinkler&nbsp;A motion-activated sprinkler can be attached to a garden hose, releasing a short burst of water upon motion. McKernan suggests picking a product that advertises it can protect at least 1000 square feet: “Such products are available from Contech, Orbit and Havahart,” he said.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

Boor: Rabbits in the garden

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension It’s crunch time for homeowners and others who manage warm-season grasses in Kansas.

“Turfgrasses should be fertilized when they are actively growing,” said K-State horticulture expert Matt McKernan. “For warm-season grasses, that time is here.”

McKernan said late spring and early summer fertilizer applications are ideal for bermudagrass, buffalograss and zoysiagrass. Fertilizing too early, he said, does not help warm-season grasses, but rather encourages cool season weeds to grow.

“Northern and northwest Kansas can wait until May 30 or after to fertilize warm-season grasses,” McKernan said. “Those in other areas of the state can fertilize beginning now (mid-May). Fertilizing too late in the season can increase the turfgrass’ vulnerability to winter damage.”

McKernan said homeowners should avoid fertilizing warm-season turf with nitrogen after Aug. 15

.Some recommendations for fertilizing the three most common warm-season varieties include

“Warm season lawns will naturally thrive on less nitrogen fertilizer and water than tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass in Kansas,” McKernan added. “Keep in mind the more fertilizer and irrigation you apply, the more these grasses will need to be mowed. It is important to strike a good balance between how much you fertilize and how much you are willing to mow.”

More information on fertilizing a warm-season lawn is available in the K-State Extension publication,&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/fertilizing-kansas-lawns_MF2324" target="_blank">Fertilizing Kansas Lawns</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/4/1712758358132.jpeg" alt="Bermuda grass greening up. File photo/Hays Post" />
 <figcaption>Bermuda grass greening up. File photo/Hays Post</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension It’s crunch time for homeowners and others who manage warm-season grasses in Kansas.“Turfgrasses should be fertilized when they are actively growing,” said K-State horticulture expert Matt McKernan. “For warm-season grasses, that time is here.”McKernan said late spring and early summer fertilizer applications are ideal for bermudagrass, buffalograss and zoysiagrass. Fertilizing too early, he said, does not help warm-season grasses, but rather encourages cool season weeds to grow.“Northern and northwest Kansas can wait until May 30 or after to fertilize warm-season grasses,” McKernan said. “Those in other areas of the state can fertilize beginning now (mid-May). Fertilizing too late in the season can increase the turfgrass’ vulnerability to winter damage.”McKernan said homeowners should avoid fertilizing warm-season turf with nitrogen after Aug. 15.Some recommendations for fertilizing the three most common warm-season varieties include<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/5/1778596094905.png" alt=" " />
 <figcaption> </figcaption>
 </figure>“Warm season lawns will naturally thrive on less nitrogen fertilizer and water than tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass in Kansas,” McKernan added. “Keep in mind the more fertilizer and irrigation you apply, the more these grasses will need to be mowed. It is important to strike a good balance between how much you fertilize and how much you are willing to mow.”More information on fertilizing a warm-season lawn is available in the K-State Extension publication,&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/fertilizing-kansas-lawns_MF2324" target="_blank">Fertilizing Kansas Lawns</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Now’s the time to fertilize warm-season grasses in Kansas

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

Choosing the right plant for the right place is crucial to introducing new plants in the garden this spring.

“Know the water needs of the plant and the water availability of your landscape,” Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said.

Understanding the growth characteristics of the plant -- such as height and spread at maturity, rate of growth and thorns or fruiting habit -- helps set the plant up for success, McKernan added.

“Determine if those qualities will fit with the space you have available,” McKernan said. “A small, young tree may look nice planted in front of your home, but as it grows, will it block your view out the window? Will this still be a desirable location?”

In addition to size, McKernan stressed the importance of determining the plant’s disease resistance, cold hardiness, and light requirements.

“If we can pick a plant that is well adapted to the amount of sunlight, winter conditions and possible insects or diseases our garden may experience, then we pick a plant that will be lower maintenance and often more successful,” he said.

He notes that gardeners should consider what that plant will look like throughout the year.

 Look for plants that will bring multiple seasons of interest, such as spring or summer flowers, fall color, winter interest or repeat blooms.

“The more we intentionally select plants with multiple seasons of interest, the more dynamic our landscape becomes,” McKernan suggested. “We can also look for plants that benefit pollinators, birds and other wildlife, which may bring additional interest into our landscape.&nbsp;

“Also reach out to your local extension office for recommended plant lists specific to your area. They will have lots of publications and plant recommendations that will be well adapted to the growing conditions of your local community.”

As you select new plants for the landscape, making informed decisions early in the landscaping process will save time and money.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682229509.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictChoosing the right plant for the right place is crucial to introducing new plants in the garden this spring.“Know the water needs of the plant and the water availability of your landscape,” Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said.Understanding the growth characteristics of the plant -- such as height and spread at maturity, rate of growth and thorns or fruiting habit -- helps set the plant up for success, McKernan added.“Determine if those qualities will fit with the space you have available,” McKernan said. “A small, young tree may look nice planted in front of your home, but as it grows, will it block your view out the window? Will this still be a desirable location?”In addition to size, McKernan stressed the importance of determining the plant’s disease resistance, cold hardiness, and light requirements.“If we can pick a plant that is well adapted to the amount of sunlight, winter conditions and possible insects or diseases our garden may experience, then we pick a plant that will be lower maintenance and often more successful,” he said.He notes that gardeners should consider what that plant will look like throughout the year. Look for plants that will bring multiple seasons of interest, such as spring or summer flowers, fall color, winter interest or repeat blooms.“The more we intentionally select plants with multiple seasons of interest, the more dynamic our landscape becomes,” McKernan suggested. “We can also look for plants that benefit pollinators, birds and other wildlife, which may bring additional interest into our landscape.&nbsp;“Also reach out to your local extension office for recommended plant lists specific to your area. They will have lots of publications and plant recommendations that will be well adapted to the growing conditions of your local community.”As you select new plants for the landscape, making informed decisions early in the landscaping process will save time and money.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Choosing the right plant for the right place

As lawns begin to turn green, controlling weeds and applying fertilizer is important.

Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue are among the most common grasses needing attention, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, who shares the following maintenance calendar:

Spot treat broadleaf weeds, if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness.

Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products commonly available.

Fertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer.

If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in.

If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole during May or anytime from May through June for imidacloprid. These products work to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with ¼ inch of water.

Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application.

If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops.

Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer if rainfall does not occur.

Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer.

Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Use label rates for all products.

McKernan reminds homeowners that using best practices for turf management is the most effective way to manage their lawn.

“This includes watering only when needed and only applying as much as needed. Deep, infrequent watering is more efficient than frequent, shallow watering. Excessive fertilizer does not equal a healthier lawn and follow recommendations for lawn height when mowing.

She also recommends getting the soil tested to determine nutrient levels. The best start to a healthy lawn is healthy soil.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/10/1761658791150.jpg" alt="Photo by Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Photo by Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District As lawns begin to turn green, controlling weeds and applying fertilizer is important.Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue are among the most common grasses needing attention, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, who shares the following maintenance calendar:MarchSpot treat broadleaf weeds, if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness.AprilApply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products commonly available.MayFertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer.If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in.If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole during May or anytime from May through June for imidacloprid. These products work to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with ¼ inch of water.June through mid-JulyApply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application.Late July through AugustIf you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops.SeptemberFertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer if rainfall does not occur.NovemberFertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer.Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Use label rates for all products.McKernan reminds homeowners that using best practices for turf management is the most effective way to manage their lawn.“This includes watering only when needed and only applying as much as needed. Deep, infrequent watering is more efficient than frequent, shallow watering. Excessive fertilizer does not equal a healthier lawn and follow recommendations for lawn height when mowing.She also recommends getting the soil tested to determine nutrient levels. The best start to a healthy lawn is healthy soil.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Lawn maintenance starts in March 

By MICHELLE BERAN Cottonwood Extension District

Nearly a year ago, I made a professional leap that surprised a few people: shifting from 4-H Youth Development into the world of Family and Community Wellness. On paper, it may look like an unexpected turn. In practice, it has been a return to my roots.

Before Extension, I spent two decades in banking—years that shaped my passion for financial education, practical skills, and helping people build stability. That experience never left me. It simply waited for the right door to open.

As I settled into this new role, I found myself returning to the business and leadership books that guided me through earlier chapters of my career. Dr. Tim Elmore’s "Habitudes," Mac Anderson and Tom Feltenstein’s "Change is Good; You Go First," and Spencer Johnson’s classic "Who Moved My Cheese?" have all resurfaced on my desk. 

"Who Moved My Cheese?" in particular, remains a favorite. Its simple story about navigating change still manages to hold up a mirror, reminding me that growth often begins with discomfort.

Extension’s mission across Kansas is, in many ways, about helping people “move their cheese.” Whether it’s leadership development through 4-H, horticulture and livestock resources for producers, or workshops that help families make informed decisions, Extension exists to provide research-based tools that improve lives and strengthen communities.

Family and Community Wellness expands that mission even further—supporting early childhood development, nutrition, aging, and financial well-being. It’s a wide-reaching umbrella, but at its heart is a simple goal: helping Kansans thrive.

The forward to "Who Moved My Cheese?" includes a poem by A.J. Cronin that captures this journey beautifully:

“Life is no straight and easy corridor… But always, if we have faith, A door will open for us… One that will ultimately prove good for us.”

I’m grateful for the door that opened for me. This past year has allowed me to work with college students on budgeting and career readiness, and with adults&nbsp;navigating Medicare, financial planning, and everyday money decisions. Each conversation reinforces why this work matters—especially in rural communities where access to resources can make all the difference.

At the end of the day, what’s most important to me is helping our communities not just survive, but truly thrive. I’m thankful for the small part I get to play in that ongoing journey.

Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness!

Michelle Beran is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other K-State Extension resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2022/11/1668179445671.jpeg" alt="Michelle Beran&nbsp;is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Michelle Beran&nbsp;is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By MICHELLE BERAN Cottonwood Extension DistrictNearly a year ago, I made a professional leap that surprised a few people: shifting from 4-H Youth Development into the world of Family and Community Wellness. On paper, it may look like an unexpected turn. In practice, it has been a return to my roots.Before Extension, I spent two decades in banking—years that shaped my passion for financial education, practical skills, and helping people build stability. That experience never left me. It simply waited for the right door to open.As I settled into this new role, I found myself returning to the business and leadership books that guided me through earlier chapters of my career. Dr. Tim Elmore’s "Habitudes," Mac Anderson and Tom Feltenstein’s "Change is Good; You Go First," and Spencer Johnson’s classic "Who Moved My Cheese?" have all resurfaced on my desk. "Who Moved My Cheese?" in particular, remains a favorite. Its simple story about navigating change still manages to hold up a mirror, reminding me that growth often begins with discomfort.Extension’s mission across Kansas is, in many ways, about helping people “move their cheese.” Whether it’s leadership development through 4-H, horticulture and livestock resources for producers, or workshops that help families make informed decisions, Extension exists to provide research-based tools that improve lives and strengthen communities.Family and Community Wellness expands that mission even further—supporting early childhood development, nutrition, aging, and financial well-being. It’s a wide-reaching umbrella, but at its heart is a simple goal: helping Kansans thrive.The forward to "Who Moved My Cheese?" includes a poem by A.J. Cronin that captures this journey beautifully:“Life is no straight and easy corridor… But always, if we have faith, A door will open for us… One that will ultimately prove good for us.”I’m grateful for the door that opened for me. This past year has allowed me to work with college students on budgeting and career readiness, and with adults&nbsp;navigating Medicare, financial planning, and everyday money decisions. Each conversation reinforces why this work matters—especially in rural communities where access to resources can make all the difference.At the end of the day, what’s most important to me is helping our communities not just survive, but truly thrive. I’m thankful for the small part I get to play in that ongoing journey.Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness!Michelle Beran is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other K-State Extension resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.

BERAN: A different perspective

Many people receive Valentine’s Day gifts from loved ones, especially roses, but they decline shortly after Feb. 14. 

Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini offers guidelines to extend the life of floral arrangements and loose stems.

“For floral arrangements, keep the vase filled or floral foam soaked with warm water,” Domenghini said. “Add fresh, warm water daily and if the water turns cloudy, replace it immediately.”

Domenghini suggests recutting loose stems every time water is replaced by removing 1-2 inches with a sharp knife, under water to allow the stem to draw water instead of air.

“Keep flowers in a cool spot (65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit), away from direct sunlight, heating or cooling vents, and not directly under ceiling fans, or near radiators,” Domenghini said.

For loose stems, begin by filling a clean, deep vase with water and add the flower food obtained from your florist.

“Remove leaves that will be below the waterline. Leaves in water will promote bacterial growth,” Domenghini said, “Stems should be cut immediately before putting them in water.”

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/2/1738772649661.png" alt="Photo by Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Photo by Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictMany people receive Valentine’s Day gifts from loved ones, especially roses, but they decline shortly after Feb. 14. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini offers guidelines to extend the life of floral arrangements and loose stems.“For floral arrangements, keep the vase filled or floral foam soaked with warm water,” Domenghini said. “Add fresh, warm water daily and if the water turns cloudy, replace it immediately.”Domenghini suggests recutting loose stems every time water is replaced by removing 1-2 inches with a sharp knife, under water to allow the stem to draw water instead of air.“Keep flowers in a cool spot (65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit), away from direct sunlight, heating or cooling vents, and not directly under ceiling fans, or near radiators,” Domenghini said.For loose stems, begin by filling a clean, deep vase with water and add the flower food obtained from your florist.“Remove leaves that will be below the waterline. Leaves in water will promote bacterial growth,” Domenghini said, “Stems should be cut immediately before putting them in water.”If you cannot get flowers in a food solution right away, keep them cool, Domenghini added.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.