By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension&nbsp;

It’s common for vegetables like squash, cucumbers and melons to produce flowers but no fruit, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.

“Most squash, cucumbers and melons have separate male and female flowers on each plant,” McKernan said. “Female flowers have a swollen area beneath the petals while male flowers have a narrow base. Usually, predominately male flowers appear first in the growing season, with the number of female flowers increasing after a few weeks of flowers.”

McKernan suggests checking garden plants to see if both flower types are present. If male and female flowers are present, observe the area for pollinators.

“If few to no pollinators are present, vegetables with separate male and female flowers may not produce fruit due to lack of pollination,” McKernan said.

To pollinate the flowers, use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to the stigma of the female flower. McKernan recommends marking that flower and making note of whether it is the only one that sets fruit. If this is the case, the problem is likely a lack of pollinators.

He added that pollinator activity can be inhibited by weather.

“Pollinators are less active on cold or rainy days. The use of insecticides can also harm pollinators. If pesticides are used in the garden, apply them in the evening when pollinators are less active and the flowers have closed for the day,” McKernan said.

Additionally, high temperatures can cause vegetables to drop their blossoms prematurely.

“Tomatoes will stop producing fruit in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Production will resume once temperatures decrease,” he said.

McKernan said it is important to ensure plants are receiving adequate water during this time.

“Applying nitrogen promotes vigorous vegetative growth. However, excessive amounts can inhibit flower and fruit production. Follow fertilizer recommendations to avoid this,” he said.

“It is also very important to provide adequate sunlight and consistent moisture to vegetable plants,” McKernan added. “Too much shade can limit flower production, and dry soils also can lead to blossom drop. Over watering and under watering can both lead to root damage, limiting water uptake needed for good fruit set. Monitor soil moisture closely, especially when vegetables are grown in containers.”

McKernan and his colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter</a> with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">view online</a> or can be delivered by email each week.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/7/1784749528347.jpeg" alt="Squash blossom. Photo courtesy University of Maryland Extension&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Squash blossom. Photo courtesy University of Maryland Extension&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension&nbsp;It’s common for vegetables like squash, cucumbers and melons to produce flowers but no fruit, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.“Most squash, cucumbers and melons have separate male and female flowers on each plant,” McKernan said. “Female flowers have a swollen area beneath the petals while male flowers have a narrow base. Usually, predominately male flowers appear first in the growing season, with the number of female flowers increasing after a few weeks of flowers.”McKernan suggests checking garden plants to see if both flower types are present. If male and female flowers are present, observe the area for pollinators.“If few to no pollinators are present, vegetables with separate male and female flowers may not produce fruit due to lack of pollination,” McKernan said.To pollinate the flowers, use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from a male flower to the stigma of the female flower. McKernan recommends marking that flower and making note of whether it is the only one that sets fruit. If this is the case, the problem is likely a lack of pollinators.He added that pollinator activity can be inhibited by weather.“Pollinators are less active on cold or rainy days. The use of insecticides can also harm pollinators. If pesticides are used in the garden, apply them in the evening when pollinators are less active and the flowers have closed for the day,” McKernan said.Additionally, high temperatures can cause vegetables to drop their blossoms prematurely.“Tomatoes will stop producing fruit in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Production will resume once temperatures decrease,” he said.McKernan said it is important to ensure plants are receiving adequate water during this time.“Applying nitrogen promotes vigorous vegetative growth. However, excessive amounts can inhibit flower and fruit production. Follow fertilizer recommendations to avoid this,” he said.“It is also very important to provide adequate sunlight and consistent moisture to vegetable plants,” McKernan added. “Too much shade can limit flower production, and dry soils also can lead to blossom drop. Over watering and under watering can both lead to root damage, limiting water uptake needed for good fruit set. Monitor soil moisture closely, especially when vegetables are grown in containers.”McKernan and his colleagues in K-State's Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">Horticulture Newsletter</a> with tips for maintaining home landscapes and gardens. The newsletter is available to <a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/horticulture-newsletter/">view online</a> or can be delivered by email each week.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: When vegetable plants produce flowers, but no fruit 

By ALICIA BOOR K-State Cottonwood Extension&nbsp;

MANHATTAN – It may be mid-summer, but veteran gardeners know it’s time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.&nbsp;

“Fall gardens may face additional pressures of pests and heat, but the flavor that comes from these late season crops are often better (than summer crops),” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.&nbsp;

He notes that gardeners should count the number of days to harvest, as well as the crops’ tolerance to frost, before deciding when to plant fall crops. Crops may be seeded directly or transplanted into the garden.&nbsp;

“Growing transplants is a good choice when the temperature is too warm for starting seeds in the ground, assuming you have grow lights and space available for starting them indoors,” McKernan said.&nbsp;

He provides some tips for successful fall crops:&nbsp;

· When seeding crops directly into the garden, plant slightly deeper than recommended in the spring to take advantage of the cooler soil temperatures and moisture available.&nbsp;

· Water more frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out.&nbsp;

· Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge. Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of vermiculite or compost over the row after seeding, or by using a soak hose or drip irrigation right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the soil.&nbsp;

McKernan also suggests a timeline for planting fall crops:&nbsp;

Plant potatoes if you can find seed stock or have saved seed potatoes. Do not use freshly dug potatoes, as they are in built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, grocery store potatoes are often treated so they don’t sprout.&nbsp;

Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower transplants can be started from seed at this time. Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them. This will not be where they will grow the entire season; these crops will be transplanted in August.&nbsp;

Seed beets, carrots and beans directly into the garden.

Seed spinach and long-season-maturing lettuce in the garden. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;

Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.&nbsp;

Direct seed radishes and leaf lettuce. There is no need to fertilize these crops before planting. Side-dress two weeks after transplanting or four weeks after sowing seed by applying two tablespoons of a 16-0-0 fertilizer or one tablespoon of a 27-3-3 or 30-3-4 fertilizer (or something similar) per plant.&nbsp;

More information about fall gardening is available in the Kansas Garden Guide, available online from the K-State Extension bookstore.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or by calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682229509.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor photo, File photo" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor photo, File photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR K-State Cottonwood Extension&nbsp;MANHATTAN – It may be mid-summer, but veteran gardeners know it’s time to start planning the fall vegetable garden.&nbsp;“Fall gardens may face additional pressures of pests and heat, but the flavor that comes from these late season crops are often better (than summer crops),” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan.&nbsp;He notes that gardeners should count the number of days to harvest, as well as the crops’ tolerance to frost, before deciding when to plant fall crops. Crops may be seeded directly or transplanted into the garden.&nbsp;“Growing transplants is a good choice when the temperature is too warm for starting seeds in the ground, assuming you have grow lights and space available for starting them indoors,” McKernan said.&nbsp;He provides some tips for successful fall crops:&nbsp;· When seeding crops directly into the garden, plant slightly deeper than recommended in the spring to take advantage of the cooler soil temperatures and moisture available.&nbsp;· Water more frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out.&nbsp;· Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge. Prevent this by applying a light sprinkling of vermiculite or compost over the row after seeding, or by using a soak hose or drip irrigation right next to the row to allow water to slowly seep into the soil.&nbsp;McKernan also suggests a timeline for planting fall crops:&nbsp;Mid-July&nbsp;Plant potatoes if you can find seed stock or have saved seed potatoes. Do not use freshly dug potatoes, as they are in built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, grocery store potatoes are often treated so they don’t sprout.&nbsp;Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower transplants can be started from seed at this time. Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them. This will not be where they will grow the entire season; these crops will be transplanted in August.&nbsp;Late July&nbsp;Seed beets, carrots and beans directly into the garden.Late July to early August&nbsp;Seed spinach and long-season-maturing lettuce in the garden. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;Second week of August&nbsp;Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.&nbsp;Mid to late August&nbsp;Direct seed radishes and leaf lettuce. There is no need to fertilize these crops before planting. Side-dress two weeks after transplanting or four weeks after sowing seed by applying two tablespoons of a 16-0-0 fertilizer or one tablespoon of a 27-3-3 or 30-3-4 fertilizer (or something similar) per plant.&nbsp;More information about fall gardening is available in the Kansas Garden Guide, available online from the K-State Extension bookstore.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or by calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Fall crops may be seeded directly or transplanted

K-State Extension news service4-H Youth Development

MANHATTAN, Kan. – The Kansas 4-H Youth Development program has recognized 34 youth as state project award recipients.&nbsp;

"Being a state project recipient is a reflection of a young person's dedication, growth, and commitment to making a difference — not just in their project area, but in their community and beyond," said Sarah Maass, state leader for the Kansas 4-H program.&nbsp;

"These young people do not just develop skills within their projects; they lead, they serve, and they inspire others along the way. From organizing community service initiatives to mentoring younger 4-H members, state project winners demonstrate what it truly means to be Beyond Ready," Maass said.&nbsp;

One state winner is selected yearly from the senior division (ages 14-18) in 45 project categories. Kansas 4-H youth submit a project report form, which is a summary of their work in a certain project.&nbsp;

"What sets these award winners apart is the full picture they present," Maass noted. "Yes, they have mastered their project skills, but they have also shown remarkable growth in leadership, civic engagement, communication and their ability to organize and inspire those around them. That combination is what 4-H is all about."&nbsp;

This year’s award recipients, in alphabetical order by county or extension district, are:&nbsp;

Jackson Strecker, Butler County – Dairy Goats&nbsp;

Garrett Dunn, 21 Central District – Civic Engagement&nbsp;

Annabelle Lehmann, Coffey County – Woodworking&nbsp;

Taryn Vogts, Coffey County – Pets&nbsp;

Russell Kern, Cottonwood District – Foods &amp; Nutrition&nbsp;

Samantha Negaard, Cottonwood District – Performing Arts&nbsp;

Anthony Jelinek, Cowley County - Agronomy&nbsp;

Braden Gillespie, Frontier District – Sheep&nbsp;

Caroline Brethour, Johnson County – Health &amp; Wellness&nbsp;

George Delancy, Johnson County – Leadership&nbsp;

Joshua Eflin, Johnson County – Computer Science&nbsp;

Iris Schrotberger, Johnson County – Sewing &amp; Textile Design&nbsp;

Emilia Barr, Kearney County – Shopping in Style&nbsp;

Mason Jenkins, Lyon County – Swine&nbsp;

Will Hardwick, Marais des Cygnes District – Electric &amp; Renewable Energy&nbsp;

Conway Patrick, McPherson County – Photography&nbsp;

Aurora Hoffman, Meadowlark District – Shooting Sports&nbsp;

Carina Johnson, Meadowlark District – Poultry&nbsp;

Harry Langill, Meadowlark District – Veterinary Science&nbsp;

Robert Langill, Meadowlark District – Dairy Cattle&nbsp;

Danielle Reeves, Meadowlark District – Dog&nbsp;

Ella Sourk, Meadowlark District – Horticulture &amp; Landscape Design&nbsp;

Grayson Maxwell, Pawnee County – Self Determined&nbsp;

Taylor Bryant, Pottawatomie County – Entomology&nbsp;

Josie Heter, Reno County – Communications&nbsp;

Kate Bormann, Riley County – Horse&nbsp;

Sean Morgan, River Valley District – Meat Goats&nbsp;

Jonathan Wright, River Valley District – Rabbits&nbsp;

Victor Harding, Sedgwick County – Reading Adventures&nbsp;

Chris Mork, Sedgwick County – Geology&nbsp;

Corbin Russell, Wabaunsee County – Visual Arts&nbsp;

Kealie Bryant, West Plains District – Fiber Arts&nbsp;

Kamryn Kirkham, Wild West District – Beef&nbsp;

Tatum Francis, Wildcat District – Wildlife&nbsp;

Award recipients were recognized during the Emerald Circle celebration, which was hosted for the first time this year by the State 4-H Office with funding provided by the Kansas 4-H Foundation. Officials say each recipient’s project report forms progress through county, regional and statewide evaluations before the state winner in each project area is named.&nbsp;

“We also know our 4-H members’ success does not come without the support of family, mentors, volunteers and extension agents who work with our 4-H youth on the local level. The youth/adult partnership is evident at this level and we’re grateful for the time our adults give to guide our 4-H youth,” said Amy Collins, program coordinator with Kansas 4-H.&nbsp;

State 4-H project award recipients are also eligible to attend the National 4-H Congress in Atlanta, Georgia, in November. Numerous donors provide support for the trip to the National 4-H Congress, through the Kansas 4-H Foundation.&nbsp;

More information about opportunities available through the Kansas 4-H Youth Development program is available online.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/7/1783002377091.jpg" alt="Image courtesy of Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Image courtesy of Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>K-State Extension news service4-H Youth DevelopmentMANHATTAN, Kan. – The Kansas 4-H Youth Development program has recognized 34 youth as state project award recipients.&nbsp;"Being a state project recipient is a reflection of a young person's dedication, growth, and commitment to making a difference — not just in their project area, but in their community and beyond," said Sarah Maass, state leader for the Kansas 4-H program.&nbsp;"These young people do not just develop skills within their projects; they lead, they serve, and they inspire others along the way. From organizing community service initiatives to mentoring younger 4-H members, state project winners demonstrate what it truly means to be Beyond Ready," Maass said.&nbsp;One state winner is selected yearly from the senior division (ages 14-18) in 45 project categories. Kansas 4-H youth submit a project report form, which is a summary of their work in a certain project.&nbsp;"What sets these award winners apart is the full picture they present," Maass noted. "Yes, they have mastered their project skills, but they have also shown remarkable growth in leadership, civic engagement, communication and their ability to organize and inspire those around them. That combination is what 4-H is all about."&nbsp;This year’s award recipients, in alphabetical order by county or extension district, are:&nbsp;Jackson Strecker, Butler County – Dairy Goats&nbsp;Garrett Dunn, 21 Central District – Civic Engagement&nbsp;Annabelle Lehmann, Coffey County – Woodworking&nbsp;Taryn Vogts, Coffey County – Pets&nbsp;Russell Kern, Cottonwood District – Foods &amp; Nutrition&nbsp;Samantha Negaard, Cottonwood District – Performing Arts&nbsp;Anthony Jelinek, Cowley County - Agronomy&nbsp;Braden Gillespie, Frontier District – Sheep&nbsp;Caroline Brethour, Johnson County – Health &amp; Wellness&nbsp;George Delancy, Johnson County – Leadership&nbsp;Joshua Eflin, Johnson County – Computer Science&nbsp;Iris Schrotberger, Johnson County – Sewing &amp; Textile Design&nbsp;Emilia Barr, Kearney County – Shopping in Style&nbsp;Mason Jenkins, Lyon County – Swine&nbsp;Will Hardwick, Marais des Cygnes District – Electric &amp; Renewable Energy&nbsp;Conway Patrick, McPherson County – Photography&nbsp;Aurora Hoffman, Meadowlark District – Shooting Sports&nbsp;Carina Johnson, Meadowlark District – Poultry&nbsp;Harry Langill, Meadowlark District – Veterinary Science&nbsp;Robert Langill, Meadowlark District – Dairy Cattle&nbsp;Danielle Reeves, Meadowlark District – Dog&nbsp;Ella Sourk, Meadowlark District – Horticulture &amp; Landscape Design&nbsp;Grayson Maxwell, Pawnee County – Self Determined&nbsp;Taylor Bryant, Pottawatomie County – Entomology&nbsp;Josie Heter, Reno County – Communications&nbsp;Kate Bormann, Riley County – Horse&nbsp;Sean Morgan, River Valley District – Meat Goats&nbsp;Jonathan Wright, River Valley District – Rabbits&nbsp;Victor Harding, Sedgwick County – Reading Adventures&nbsp;Chris Mork, Sedgwick County – Geology&nbsp;Corbin Russell, Wabaunsee County – Visual Arts&nbsp;Kealie Bryant, West Plains District – Fiber Arts&nbsp;Kamryn Kirkham, Wild West District – Beef&nbsp;Tatum Francis, Wildcat District – Wildlife&nbsp;Award recipients were recognized during the Emerald Circle celebration, which was hosted for the first time this year by the State 4-H Office with funding provided by the Kansas 4-H Foundation. Officials say each recipient’s project report forms progress through county, regional and statewide evaluations before the state winner in each project area is named.&nbsp;“We also know our 4-H members’ success does not come without the support of family, mentors, volunteers and extension agents who work with our 4-H youth on the local level. The youth/adult partnership is evident at this level and we’re grateful for the time our adults give to guide our 4-H youth,” said Amy Collins, program coordinator with Kansas 4-H.&nbsp;<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/7/1783002409146.jpeg" alt="Samantha Negaard, Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Samantha Negaard, Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>State 4-H project award recipients are also eligible to attend the National 4-H Congress in Atlanta, Georgia, in November. Numerous donors provide support for the trip to the National 4-H Congress, through the Kansas 4-H Foundation.&nbsp;<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/7/1783002458334.jpeg" alt="Russel Kern, Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Russel Kern, Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>More information about opportunities available through the Kansas 4-H Youth Development program is available online.

Kansas 4-H names state project award recipients

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

A healthy lawn may be the best defense homeowners have against invasive weeds, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, adding that proper maintenance can prevent many common weed problems before they begin.&nbsp;

“Weeds invading a home lawn can feel like an ongoing battle,” McKernan said. “Instead of constantly applying chemical treatments, homeowners should focus on growing strong, vigorous turfgrass that naturally crowds out weeds.”&nbsp;

McKernan said healthy grass competes with weeds for sunlight, water and nutrients, making it harder for unwanted plants to take hold. He noted that many weed problems stem from common lawn care mistakes that weaken turfgrass and create opportunities for weeds to spread.&nbsp;

One of the most common problems is mowing grass too short. McKernan said scalping the lawn weakens turfgrass and allows more sunlight to reach weed seeds, encouraging germination. He recommends mowing at the proper height for the grass species, keeping mower blades sharp and avoiding mowing when grass is wet.&nbsp;

Watering practices also play a significant role in lawn health. Frequent, shallow watering encourages shallow root systems and can increase weed pressure, McKernan said.&nbsp;

Instead, homeowners should water deeply and less often to promote stronger roots and improve drought tolerance. During spring, irrigation should only occur when necessary.&nbsp;

Other factors that may lead to an unhealthy lawn include:

McKernan said a proactive approach focused on lawn health is more effective and sustainable than relying solely on herbicides.&nbsp;

“A dense, healthy lawn is the first line of defense against weeds,” he said.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682229509.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo " />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo </figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictA healthy lawn may be the best defense homeowners have against invasive weeds, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, adding that proper maintenance can prevent many common weed problems before they begin.&nbsp;“Weeds invading a home lawn can feel like an ongoing battle,” McKernan said. “Instead of constantly applying chemical treatments, homeowners should focus on growing strong, vigorous turfgrass that naturally crowds out weeds.”&nbsp;McKernan said healthy grass competes with weeds for sunlight, water and nutrients, making it harder for unwanted plants to take hold. He noted that many weed problems stem from common lawn care mistakes that weaken turfgrass and create opportunities for weeds to spread.&nbsp;One of the most common problems is mowing grass too short. McKernan said scalping the lawn weakens turfgrass and allows more sunlight to reach weed seeds, encouraging germination. He recommends mowing at the proper height for the grass species, keeping mower blades sharp and avoiding mowing when grass is wet.&nbsp;Watering practices also play a significant role in lawn health. Frequent, shallow watering encourages shallow root systems and can increase weed pressure, McKernan said.&nbsp;Instead, homeowners should water deeply and less often to promote stronger roots and improve drought tolerance. During spring, irrigation should only occur when necessary.&nbsp;Other factors that may lead to an unhealthy lawn include:<ul>
 <li>Improper fertilizing. Fertilizing too much or too little or at the wrong time may benefit weeds more than grass. Only fertilize during the recommended months, only apply what is needed, and conduct a soil test to better understand fertilizer needs.&nbsp;</li><li>Compacted soil. Soil compaction is a hidden stress on the turfgrass root system. The grass is unable to compete effectively with weeds. Core aerate lawns at least once per year to reduce compaction.&nbsp;</li><li>Excessive wear. Turf areas used for recreation, sports and pets are subject to wear and compaction. Core aerate to reduce compaction in these areas, and temporarily fence off areas when establishing new grass seed.&nbsp;</li><li>Wrong kind of grass. The wrong variety for the location will gradually decline and be invaded by weeds. Always check the grass seed label before purchasing to evaluate the types of grass seeds included in the bag. Purchase only recommended types of turf, avoiding cheap fillers.&nbsp;</li><li>Environmental stress. Weeds often take over a lawn after it has been weakened and thinned from weather-related stress. Water appropriately during times of drought and avoid overwatering in the spring and fall. Evaluate irrigation water quality and soil nutrient levels by testing.&nbsp;</li><li>Thatch. Excessive thatch causes shallow-rooted grass, limits water infiltration and contributes to insect and disease problems. Regularly monitor thatch accumulation and remove excessive thatch when necessary.</li>
 </ul>McKernan said a proactive approach focused on lawn health is more effective and sustainable than relying solely on herbicides.&nbsp;“A dense, healthy lawn is the first line of defense against weeds,” he said.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;.

BOOR: Weed control in your lawn

By: ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District Rabbits are a common invader of home gardens, especially when plants flower in spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said there are many common-sense ways to keep the hungry critters out.&nbsp;

“This time of year, rabbits gravitate to young vegetables and flowers,” McKernan said. “But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered, including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers and some peppers.”&nbsp;

Matt McKernan said some methods for keeping rabbits away include:&nbsp;

Fencing is often the quickest and easiest method of control. McKernan recommended the fence be at least two feet tall with a fine mesh of one inch or less. Fencing support can be provided by a variety of products, including electric fence posts. However, fencing may not be a viable choice based on the desired appearance of the garden.&nbsp;

Floating row cover is a light woven material that can be placed over plants yet still allows light, water and air to come through.&nbsp;

“Though most often used to promote early growth by keeping plants warmer than normal, it can also help protect young plants from insects and wildlife,” McKernan said.&nbsp;

Although commonly suggested for rabbit control, repellants must be re-applied frequently. Some can also be poisonous and cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption, McKernan warned.&nbsp;

McKernan said live traps are usually recommended when the rabbit can be moved to a rural area several miles away from where they were initially caught.&nbsp;

“A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap, including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together by a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.”&nbsp;

A motion-activated sprinkler can be attached to a garden hose, releasing a short burst of water upon motion. McKernan suggests picking a product that advertises it can protect at least 1000 square feet: “Such products are available from Contech, Orbit and Havahart,” he said.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910

K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682262753.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp; " />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp; </figcaption>
 </figure>By: ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District Rabbits are a common invader of home gardens, especially when plants flower in spring. Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said there are many common-sense ways to keep the hungry critters out.&nbsp;“This time of year, rabbits gravitate to young vegetables and flowers,” McKernan said. “But there are some vegetables that are rarely bothered, including potatoes, tomatoes, corn, squash, cucumbers and some peppers.”&nbsp;Matt McKernan said some methods for keeping rabbits away include:&nbsp;Fencing&nbsp;Fencing is often the quickest and easiest method of control. McKernan recommended the fence be at least two feet tall with a fine mesh of one inch or less. Fencing support can be provided by a variety of products, including electric fence posts. However, fencing may not be a viable choice based on the desired appearance of the garden.&nbsp;Floating Row Cover&nbsp;Floating row cover is a light woven material that can be placed over plants yet still allows light, water and air to come through.&nbsp;“Though most often used to promote early growth by keeping plants warmer than normal, it can also help protect young plants from insects and wildlife,” McKernan said.&nbsp;Repellants&nbsp;Although commonly suggested for rabbit control, repellants must be re-applied frequently. Some can also be poisonous and cannot be used on plants intended for human consumption, McKernan warned.&nbsp;TrappingMcKernan said live traps are usually recommended when the rabbit can be moved to a rural area several miles away from where they were initially caught.&nbsp;“A number of baits can be used to entice the rabbit to enter the trap, including a tightly rolled cabbage leaf held together by a toothpick. However, rabbits often avoid baits if other attractive food is available.”&nbsp;Sprinkler&nbsp;A motion-activated sprinkler can be attached to a garden hose, releasing a short burst of water upon motion. McKernan suggests picking a product that advertises it can protect at least 1000 square feet: “Such products are available from Contech, Orbit and Havahart,” he said.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.

Boor: Rabbits in the garden

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension It’s crunch time for homeowners and others who manage warm-season grasses in Kansas.

“Turfgrasses should be fertilized when they are actively growing,” said K-State horticulture expert Matt McKernan. “For warm-season grasses, that time is here.”

McKernan said late spring and early summer fertilizer applications are ideal for bermudagrass, buffalograss and zoysiagrass. Fertilizing too early, he said, does not help warm-season grasses, but rather encourages cool season weeds to grow.

“Northern and northwest Kansas can wait until May 30 or after to fertilize warm-season grasses,” McKernan said. “Those in other areas of the state can fertilize beginning now (mid-May). Fertilizing too late in the season can increase the turfgrass’ vulnerability to winter damage.”

McKernan said homeowners should avoid fertilizing warm-season turf with nitrogen after Aug. 15

.Some recommendations for fertilizing the three most common warm-season varieties include

“Warm season lawns will naturally thrive on less nitrogen fertilizer and water than tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass in Kansas,” McKernan added. “Keep in mind the more fertilizer and irrigation you apply, the more these grasses will need to be mowed. It is important to strike a good balance between how much you fertilize and how much you are willing to mow.”

More information on fertilizing a warm-season lawn is available in the K-State Extension publication,&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/fertilizing-kansas-lawns_MF2324" target="_blank">Fertilizing Kansas Lawns</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2024/4/1712758358132.jpeg" alt="Bermuda grass greening up. File photo/Hays Post" />
 <figcaption>Bermuda grass greening up. File photo/Hays Post</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension It’s crunch time for homeowners and others who manage warm-season grasses in Kansas.“Turfgrasses should be fertilized when they are actively growing,” said K-State horticulture expert Matt McKernan. “For warm-season grasses, that time is here.”McKernan said late spring and early summer fertilizer applications are ideal for bermudagrass, buffalograss and zoysiagrass. Fertilizing too early, he said, does not help warm-season grasses, but rather encourages cool season weeds to grow.“Northern and northwest Kansas can wait until May 30 or after to fertilize warm-season grasses,” McKernan said. “Those in other areas of the state can fertilize beginning now (mid-May). Fertilizing too late in the season can increase the turfgrass’ vulnerability to winter damage.”McKernan said homeowners should avoid fertilizing warm-season turf with nitrogen after Aug. 15.Some recommendations for fertilizing the three most common warm-season varieties include<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/5/1778596094905.png" alt=" " />
 <figcaption> </figcaption>
 </figure>“Warm season lawns will naturally thrive on less nitrogen fertilizer and water than tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass in Kansas,” McKernan added. “Keep in mind the more fertilizer and irrigation you apply, the more these grasses will need to be mowed. It is important to strike a good balance between how much you fertilize and how much you are willing to mow.”More information on fertilizing a warm-season lawn is available in the K-State Extension publication,&nbsp;<a href="https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/fertilizing-kansas-lawns_MF2324" target="_blank">Fertilizing Kansas Lawns</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Now’s the time to fertilize warm-season grasses in Kansas

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

Choosing the right plant for the right place is crucial to introducing new plants in the garden this spring.

“Know the water needs of the plant and the water availability of your landscape,” Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said.

Understanding the growth characteristics of the plant -- such as height and spread at maturity, rate of growth and thorns or fruiting habit -- helps set the plant up for success, McKernan added.

“Determine if those qualities will fit with the space you have available,” McKernan said. “A small, young tree may look nice planted in front of your home, but as it grows, will it block your view out the window? Will this still be a desirable location?”

In addition to size, McKernan stressed the importance of determining the plant’s disease resistance, cold hardiness, and light requirements.

“If we can pick a plant that is well adapted to the amount of sunlight, winter conditions and possible insects or diseases our garden may experience, then we pick a plant that will be lower maintenance and often more successful,” he said.

He notes that gardeners should consider what that plant will look like throughout the year.

 Look for plants that will bring multiple seasons of interest, such as spring or summer flowers, fall color, winter interest or repeat blooms.

“The more we intentionally select plants with multiple seasons of interest, the more dynamic our landscape becomes,” McKernan suggested. “We can also look for plants that benefit pollinators, birds and other wildlife, which may bring additional interest into our landscape.&nbsp;

“Also reach out to your local extension office for recommended plant lists specific to your area. They will have lots of publications and plant recommendations that will be well adapted to the growing conditions of your local community.”

As you select new plants for the landscape, making informed decisions early in the landscaping process will save time and money.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682229509.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor&nbsp;is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Courtesy photo&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictChoosing the right plant for the right place is crucial to introducing new plants in the garden this spring.“Know the water needs of the plant and the water availability of your landscape,” Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan said.Understanding the growth characteristics of the plant -- such as height and spread at maturity, rate of growth and thorns or fruiting habit -- helps set the plant up for success, McKernan added.“Determine if those qualities will fit with the space you have available,” McKernan said. “A small, young tree may look nice planted in front of your home, but as it grows, will it block your view out the window? Will this still be a desirable location?”In addition to size, McKernan stressed the importance of determining the plant’s disease resistance, cold hardiness, and light requirements.“If we can pick a plant that is well adapted to the amount of sunlight, winter conditions and possible insects or diseases our garden may experience, then we pick a plant that will be lower maintenance and often more successful,” he said.He notes that gardeners should consider what that plant will look like throughout the year. Look for plants that will bring multiple seasons of interest, such as spring or summer flowers, fall color, winter interest or repeat blooms.“The more we intentionally select plants with multiple seasons of interest, the more dynamic our landscape becomes,” McKernan suggested. “We can also look for plants that benefit pollinators, birds and other wildlife, which may bring additional interest into our landscape.&nbsp;“Also reach out to your local extension office for recommended plant lists specific to your area. They will have lots of publications and plant recommendations that will be well adapted to the growing conditions of your local community.”As you select new plants for the landscape, making informed decisions early in the landscaping process will save time and money.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Choosing the right plant for the right place

By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District

As lawns begin to turn green, controlling weeds and applying fertilizer is important.

Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue are among the most common grasses needing attention, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, who shares the following maintenance calendar:

Spot treat broadleaf weeds, if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness.

Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products commonly available.

Fertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer.

If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in.

If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole during May or anytime from May through June for imidacloprid. These products work to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with ¼ inch of water.

Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application.

If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops.

Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer if rainfall does not occur.

Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer.

Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Use label rates for all products.

McKernan reminds homeowners that using best practices for turf management is the most effective way to manage their lawn.

“This includes watering only when needed and only applying as much as needed. Deep, infrequent watering is more efficient than frequent, shallow watering. Excessive fertilizer does not equal a healthier lawn and follow recommendations for lawn height when mowing.

She also recommends getting the soil tested to determine nutrient levels. The best start to a healthy lawn is healthy soil.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/10/1761658791150.jpg" alt="Photo by Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Photo by Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension District As lawns begin to turn green, controlling weeds and applying fertilizer is important.Cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue are among the most common grasses needing attention, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Matt McKernan, who shares the following maintenance calendar:MarchSpot treat broadleaf weeds, if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness.AprilApply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products commonly available.MayFertilize the lawn with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer.If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in.If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole during May or anytime from May through June for imidacloprid. These products work to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with ¼ inch of water.June through mid-JulyApply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application.Late July through AugustIf you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops.SeptemberFertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer if rainfall does not occur.NovemberFertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer.Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Use label rates for all products.McKernan reminds homeowners that using best practices for turf management is the most effective way to manage their lawn.“This includes watering only when needed and only applying as much as needed. Deep, infrequent watering is more efficient than frequent, shallow watering. Excessive fertilizer does not equal a healthier lawn and follow recommendations for lawn height when mowing.She also recommends getting the soil tested to determine nutrient levels. The best start to a healthy lawn is healthy soil.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Lawn maintenance starts in March 

By MICHELLE BERAN Cottonwood Extension District

Nearly a year ago, I made a professional leap that surprised a few people: shifting from 4-H Youth Development into the world of Family and Community Wellness. On paper, it may look like an unexpected turn. In practice, it has been a return to my roots.

Before Extension, I spent two decades in banking—years that shaped my passion for financial education, practical skills, and helping people build stability. That experience never left me. It simply waited for the right door to open.

As I settled into this new role, I found myself returning to the business and leadership books that guided me through earlier chapters of my career. Dr. Tim Elmore’s "Habitudes," Mac Anderson and Tom Feltenstein’s "Change is Good; You Go First," and Spencer Johnson’s classic "Who Moved My Cheese?" have all resurfaced on my desk. 

"Who Moved My Cheese?" in particular, remains a favorite. Its simple story about navigating change still manages to hold up a mirror, reminding me that growth often begins with discomfort.

Extension’s mission across Kansas is, in many ways, about helping people “move their cheese.” Whether it’s leadership development through 4-H, horticulture and livestock resources for producers, or workshops that help families make informed decisions, Extension exists to provide research-based tools that improve lives and strengthen communities.

Family and Community Wellness expands that mission even further—supporting early childhood development, nutrition, aging, and financial well-being. It’s a wide-reaching umbrella, but at its heart is a simple goal: helping Kansans thrive.

The forward to "Who Moved My Cheese?" includes a poem by A.J. Cronin that captures this journey beautifully:

“Life is no straight and easy corridor… But always, if we have faith, A door will open for us… One that will ultimately prove good for us.”

I’m grateful for the door that opened for me. This past year has allowed me to work with college students on budgeting and career readiness, and with adults&nbsp;navigating Medicare, financial planning, and everyday money decisions. Each conversation reinforces why this work matters—especially in rural communities where access to resources can make all the difference.

At the end of the day, what’s most important to me is helping our communities not just survive, but truly thrive. I’m thankful for the small part I get to play in that ongoing journey.

Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness!

Michelle Beran is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other K-State Extension resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2022/11/1668179445671.jpeg" alt="Michelle Beran&nbsp;is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Michelle Beran&nbsp;is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By MICHELLE BERAN Cottonwood Extension DistrictNearly a year ago, I made a professional leap that surprised a few people: shifting from 4-H Youth Development into the world of Family and Community Wellness. On paper, it may look like an unexpected turn. In practice, it has been a return to my roots.Before Extension, I spent two decades in banking—years that shaped my passion for financial education, practical skills, and helping people build stability. That experience never left me. It simply waited for the right door to open.As I settled into this new role, I found myself returning to the business and leadership books that guided me through earlier chapters of my career. Dr. Tim Elmore’s "Habitudes," Mac Anderson and Tom Feltenstein’s "Change is Good; You Go First," and Spencer Johnson’s classic "Who Moved My Cheese?" have all resurfaced on my desk. "Who Moved My Cheese?" in particular, remains a favorite. Its simple story about navigating change still manages to hold up a mirror, reminding me that growth often begins with discomfort.Extension’s mission across Kansas is, in many ways, about helping people “move their cheese.” Whether it’s leadership development through 4-H, horticulture and livestock resources for producers, or workshops that help families make informed decisions, Extension exists to provide research-based tools that improve lives and strengthen communities.Family and Community Wellness expands that mission even further—supporting early childhood development, nutrition, aging, and financial well-being. It’s a wide-reaching umbrella, but at its heart is a simple goal: helping Kansans thrive.The forward to "Who Moved My Cheese?" includes a poem by A.J. Cronin that captures this journey beautifully:“Life is no straight and easy corridor… But always, if we have faith, A door will open for us… One that will ultimately prove good for us.”I’m grateful for the door that opened for me. This past year has allowed me to work with college students on budgeting and career readiness, and with adults&nbsp;navigating Medicare, financial planning, and everyday money decisions. Each conversation reinforces why this work matters—especially in rural communities where access to resources can make all the difference.At the end of the day, what’s most important to me is helping our communities not just survive, but truly thrive. I’m thankful for the small part I get to play in that ongoing journey.Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness!Michelle Beran is a Family and Community Wellness Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. For more information on this article or other K-State Extension resources, email Michelle at mberan@ksu.edu or call Cottonwood Extension District – Barton Office at 620-793-1910.

BERAN: A different perspective

Many people receive Valentine’s Day gifts from loved ones, especially roses, but they decline shortly after Feb. 14. 

Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini offers guidelines to extend the life of floral arrangements and loose stems.

“For floral arrangements, keep the vase filled or floral foam soaked with warm water,” Domenghini said. “Add fresh, warm water daily and if the water turns cloudy, replace it immediately.”

Domenghini suggests recutting loose stems every time water is replaced by removing 1-2 inches with a sharp knife, under water to allow the stem to draw water instead of air.

“Keep flowers in a cool spot (65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit), away from direct sunlight, heating or cooling vents, and not directly under ceiling fans, or near radiators,” Domenghini said.

For loose stems, begin by filling a clean, deep vase with water and add the flower food obtained from your florist.

“Remove leaves that will be below the waterline. Leaves in water will promote bacterial growth,” Domenghini said, “Stems should be cut immediately before putting them in water.”

If you cannot get flowers in a food solution right away, keep them cool, Domenghini added.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2025/2/1738772649661.png" alt="Photo by Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Photo by Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictMany people receive Valentine’s Day gifts from loved ones, especially roses, but they decline shortly after Feb. 14. Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini offers guidelines to extend the life of floral arrangements and loose stems.“For floral arrangements, keep the vase filled or floral foam soaked with warm water,” Domenghini said. “Add fresh, warm water daily and if the water turns cloudy, replace it immediately.”Domenghini suggests recutting loose stems every time water is replaced by removing 1-2 inches with a sharp knife, under water to allow the stem to draw water instead of air.“Keep flowers in a cool spot (65 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit), away from direct sunlight, heating or cooling vents, and not directly under ceiling fans, or near radiators,” Domenghini said.For loose stems, begin by filling a clean, deep vase with water and add the flower food obtained from your florist.“Remove leaves that will be below the waterline. Leaves in water will promote bacterial growth,” Domenghini said, “Stems should be cut immediately before putting them in water.”If you cannot get flowers in a food solution right away, keep them cool, Domenghini added.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Keeping those Valentine roses lovely past Feb. 14

Cindy 'Cynthia' Lee Lindquist, a cherished soul known for
her kind heart and adventurous spirit, passed away peacefully due to natural
causes on February 5, 2026, in Wichita, Kansas. 

Born on December 19, 1952, in
Chanute, Kansas to Ralph Browne Lindquist and Virginia Lee (Hoepker) Lindquist.
Cindy grew up in Yates Center and graduated from Yates Center High School in
1970 and continued her education at Neosho County Community College and then
finished her education at West Texas State University in Canyon, Texas. 

Her
passion for flora led her to a fulfilling career working in several greenhouses
in Kansas and she retired as a greenhouse manager for Tree Top Nursery,
Wichita, where she nurtured plants and people alike with her extensive
knowledge and warm presence. Horses and horticulture were the cornerstones of
Cindy interests. 

A competitor in the Kansas High School rodeo queen contest,
she was also a lifelong member of the Kansas and American Quarter Horse
Associations. Cindy’s love for these majestic animals was evident as she showed
quarter horses in local, state, national and world shows, sharing her passion
and commitment with the equestrian community. Cindy loved to compete in shows,
but she took great joy in watching owners compete I world class shows with
horses that she had trained. 

Cindy green thumb was legendary, especially when
it came to her collection of over 1000 daylilies at her home near Valley
Center, Kansas. As a respected judge at state and national daylily shows, her
expertise was sought after and deeply valued. Her involvement with the Wichita
Rose Club and Hosta Club further showcased her dedication to the beauty of
nature and her desire to bring it into the lives of others. The Air Capital
Daylily Society also benefited from her longtime membership and the enthusiasm
she brought to every meeting and event. 

Her professional journey in the equine
world included time working for many horse training facilities in Kansas
including Karen Russell training stables, and later, she continued to share her
talents at her own training stables in Yates Center. 

Cindy love for animals was
not limited to horses; she adored her dogs, particularly her Australian
Shepherds, and held a special place in her heart for all breeds. Her pets were
more than companions; they were family, cherished and loved with every ounce of
her being. S

he is survived by her sisters, Patricia (Doug) Howard, Baldwin, KS
and Kathleen (Mark) Fabrizius, Ogallah, KS; her adoring nephews, Nicholas
(Molly) Howard and Alex (Maygan) Howard; and her beloved nieces, Savannah
(Gordon) Butler, and Sierra (Cory) Lampe. She also is survived by 10 great
nieces and nephews. 

Cindy legacy is one of passion, dedication, and unwavering
love for the natural world and the creatures within it. Her memory will
continue to blossom in the gardens she tended, the horses she cared for, and
the hearts of those who had the privilege of knowing her. 

Graveside service
will be at 1:00 PM Friday February 13, 2026, at Neosho County Memorial Park,
1864 W. 21 st St, Chanute, Kansas. 

Memorial donations may be made to the Air
Capital Daylily Society in care of the funeral home. Those who wish may stop by
Affinity Mortuary to pay their respects and sign the book on Thursday February
12, 2026, 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2026/2/1770666148184.jpeg" alt="Cindy 'Cynthia' Lee Lindquist" />
 <figcaption>Cindy 'Cynthia' Lee Lindquist</figcaption>
 </figure>Cindy 'Cynthia' Lee Lindquist, a cherished soul known for
her kind heart and adventurous spirit, passed away peacefully due to natural
causes on February 5, 2026, in Wichita, Kansas. Born on December 19, 1952, in
Chanute, Kansas to Ralph Browne Lindquist and Virginia Lee (Hoepker) Lindquist.
Cindy grew up in Yates Center and graduated from Yates Center High School in
1970 and continued her education at Neosho County Community College and then
finished her education at West Texas State University in Canyon, Texas. Her
passion for flora led her to a fulfilling career working in several greenhouses
in Kansas and she retired as a greenhouse manager for Tree Top Nursery,
Wichita, where she nurtured plants and people alike with her extensive
knowledge and warm presence. Horses and horticulture were the cornerstones of
Cindy interests. A competitor in the Kansas High School rodeo queen contest,
she was also a lifelong member of the Kansas and American Quarter Horse
Associations. Cindy’s love for these majestic animals was evident as she showed
quarter horses in local, state, national and world shows, sharing her passion
and commitment with the equestrian community. Cindy loved to compete in shows,
but she took great joy in watching owners compete I world class shows with
horses that she had trained. Cindy green thumb was legendary, especially when
it came to her collection of over 1000 daylilies at her home near Valley
Center, Kansas. As a respected judge at state and national daylily shows, her
expertise was sought after and deeply valued. Her involvement with the Wichita
Rose Club and Hosta Club further showcased her dedication to the beauty of
nature and her desire to bring it into the lives of others. The Air Capital
Daylily Society also benefited from her longtime membership and the enthusiasm
she brought to every meeting and event. Her professional journey in the equine
world included time working for many horse training facilities in Kansas
including Karen Russell training stables, and later, she continued to share her
talents at her own training stables in Yates Center. Cindy love for animals was
not limited to horses; she adored her dogs, particularly her Australian
Shepherds, and held a special place in her heart for all breeds. Her pets were
more than companions; they were family, cherished and loved with every ounce of
her being. She is survived by her sisters, Patricia (Doug) Howard, Baldwin, KS
and Kathleen (Mark) Fabrizius, Ogallah, KS; her adoring nephews, Nicholas
(Molly) Howard and Alex (Maygan) Howard; and her beloved nieces, Savannah
(Gordon) Butler, and Sierra (Cory) Lampe. She also is survived by 10 great
nieces and nephews. Cindy legacy is one of passion, dedication, and unwavering
love for the natural world and the creatures within it. Her memory will
continue to blossom in the gardens she tended, the horses she cared for, and
the hearts of those who had the privilege of knowing her. Graveside service
will be at 1:00 PM Friday February 13, 2026, at Neosho County Memorial Park,
1864 W. 21 st St, Chanute, Kansas. Memorial donations may be made to the Air
Capital Daylily Society in care of the funeral home. Those who wish may stop by
Affinity Mortuary to pay their respects and sign the book on Thursday February
12, 2026, 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM.

Cindy 'Cynthia' Lee Lindquist

Yards may need another shot of moisture even after recent rain and snow to alleviate stress in lawns and gardens, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.

“A good, deep watering with moisture reaching at least a foot down into the soil is much better than several light sprinklings that just wet the top portions of the soil,” Domenghini said. “A deep watering will ensure that the majority of roots have access to water.”

Domenghini urged homeowners to test the moisture content in their yard’s soil by pushing a metal rod or wooden dowel into the ground. “Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet,” she said. Measure how far down the implement goes to determine the amount of moisture is in the soil.

“Although all perennial plants benefit from moist soils before winter, it is especially important for newly planted or over-seeded lawns, as well as newly transplanted trees and shrubs due to their limited root systems,” Domenghini said.

“Even trees and shrubs planted within the last 2-3 years are more sensitive to drought than a well-established plant. Evergreens are more at risk because moisture is lost from the foliage.”

Domenghini shared a few tips for watering common areas of the yard:

Trees and shrubs planted within the last year. Drill a small hole in a five-gallon bucket near the bottom, then fill the bucket and let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once so that you apply 10 gallons. Slow release bags with micropores can be purchased as an alternative to using a bucket. Larger trees planted 2-3 years prior may require more water.

Large trees. Using a soaker hose, circle the trunk one-half the distance to the dripline, or the outermost reach of branches. On smaller trees, you may need to circle the tree several times so that tree roots will be watered.

Newly established bed or foundation plantings. Hook the beginning and end of a soaker hose to a Y-adapter to equalize pressure, which encourages more uniform watering.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2023/10/1698682262753.jpeg" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>By ALICIA BOOR Cottonwood Extension DistrictYards may need another shot of moisture even after recent rain and snow to alleviate stress in lawns and gardens, said Kansas State University horticulture expert Cynthia Domenghini.“A good, deep watering with moisture reaching at least a foot down into the soil is much better than several light sprinklings that just wet the top portions of the soil,” Domenghini said. “A deep watering will ensure that the majority of roots have access to water.”Domenghini urged homeowners to test the moisture content in their yard’s soil by pushing a metal rod or wooden dowel into the ground. “Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet,” she said. Measure how far down the implement goes to determine the amount of moisture is in the soil.“Although all perennial plants benefit from moist soils before winter, it is especially important for newly planted or over-seeded lawns, as well as newly transplanted trees and shrubs due to their limited root systems,” Domenghini said.“Even trees and shrubs planted within the last 2-3 years are more sensitive to drought than a well-established plant. Evergreens are more at risk because moisture is lost from the foliage.”Domenghini shared a few tips for watering common areas of the yard:Trees and shrubs planted within the last year. Drill a small hole in a five-gallon bucket near the bottom, then fill the bucket and let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once so that you apply 10 gallons. Slow release bags with micropores can be purchased as an alternative to using a bucket. Larger trees planted 2-3 years prior may require more water.Large trees. Using a soaker hose, circle the trunk one-half the distance to the dripline, or the outermost reach of branches. On smaller trees, you may need to circle the tree several times so that tree roots will be watered.Newly established bed or foundation plantings. Hook the beginning and end of a soaker hose to a Y-adapter to equalize pressure, which encourages more uniform watering.Fall planted or overseeded lawns. Use an overhead sprinkler. Watering to a depth of 12 inches is more difficult; try to reach at least six inches deep.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity employer and provider. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating.