Do you have a wood-burning fireplace or an insert? If so, you might want to think about the species of wood you are burning and how efficient it is.

 Not all firewood is created equal. In fact, some species of trees are able to produce much more heat per cord of wood.&nbsp; A cord is the amount of wood in a well-stacked woodpile measuring 4 feet wide by 8 feet long by 4 feet high.

Following are heat values (in million BTUs) per cord for various species of tree.&nbsp; The higher the value, the better the wood.

Ash, Green &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 22.8 Cottonwood&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 15.9 Elm, American&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 19.8 Difficult to split Elm, Siberian &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 20.9 Difficult to split Hackberry&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 21.0 Honeylocust&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 25.6 Locust, Black &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 28.3 Difficult to split Maple, Sugar &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 24.0 Maple, Silver &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 18.9 Mulberry&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 25.3 Oak, Red &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 24.0 Oak, Bur&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 24.9 Oak, Post&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 25.6 Osage Orange&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 32.6 Sparks, do not use in open fireplace&nbsp; Sycamore&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 19.5 Difficult to split Walnut, Black &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 21.8

The Kansas Forest Service has a publication titled “<a href="http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/mf773.pdf">Managing Your Woodland for Firewood</a>” that is quite helpful.&nbsp;

&nbsp;Remember to obtain firewood locally. Emerald Ash Borer is now in Kansas because of transported wood.

If you have questions, please contact your local Extension agent!

Lauren Fick is horticulture agent with&nbsp;K-State Research and Extension's Cottonwood District. <a href="http://lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/12/1576770510734.png" alt="A half cord of firewood." />
 <figcaption>A half cord of firewood.</figcaption>
 </figure>Do you have a wood-burning fireplace or an insert? If so, you might want to think about the species of wood you are burning and how efficient it is. Not all firewood is created equal. In fact, some species of trees are able to produce much more heat per cord of wood.&nbsp; A cord is the amount of wood in a well-stacked woodpile measuring 4 feet wide by 8 feet long by 4 feet high.Following are heat values (in million BTUs) per cord for various species of tree.&nbsp; The higher the value, the better the wood.Ash, Green &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 22.8 Cottonwood&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 15.9 Elm, American&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 19.8 Difficult to split Elm, Siberian &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 20.9 Difficult to split Hackberry&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 21.0 Honeylocust&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 25.6 Locust, Black &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 28.3 Difficult to split Maple, Sugar &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 24.0 Maple, Silver &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 18.9 Mulberry&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 25.3 Oak, Red &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 24.0 Oak, Bur&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 24.9 Oak, Post&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 25.6 Osage Orange&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 32.6 Sparks, do not use in open fireplace&nbsp; Sycamore&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 19.5 Difficult to split Walnut, Black &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 21.8The Kansas Forest Service has a publication titled “<a href="http://www.ksre.ksu.edu/bookstore/pubs/mf773.pdf">Managing Your Woodland for Firewood</a>” that is quite helpful.&nbsp;&nbsp;Remember to obtain firewood locally. Emerald Ash Borer is now in Kansas because of transported wood.If you have questions, please contact your local Extension agent!Lauren Fick is horticulture agent with&nbsp;K-State Research and Extension's Cottonwood District. <a href="http://lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>

FICK: Not all firewood is created equal

BY BERNY UNRUH Cottonwood Extension District

	It is so close to Christmas and gifts have still not been purchased and wrapped.&nbsp; Ask yourself this question, “Do I really need to buy a gift?”&nbsp; Are there gifts that our children need that cannot be bought, but come from the heart?

	Here are ten gifts that I believe we need to give our children. These were shared by a speaker at a national 4-H meeting many years ago. &nbsp;

1.&nbsp; The joy of learning.&nbsp; Hopefully, we never stop learning. We can encourage our children to listen to others and learn from them. Teachers and all those who are interested in their well-being have a gift to share.

2.&nbsp; The gift of hope. Isn’t it nice to know there’s still hope for our young people? Give them hope in a world that weighs a little too heavy on the negative.

3.&nbsp; The gift of communication. Learn to communicate with your spouse and with your children.&nbsp; Communication involves listening and then responding and then listening again.

4.&nbsp; The gift of laughter. Experts say we need to laugh 15 times a day to stay healthy.

5.&nbsp; The gift of uniqueness. Let’s teach our children to be themselves.&nbsp; We do need role models, but we do not need our children to be just like so-and-so.

6.&nbsp; The gift of flexibility. Try new things. Do new things. Today is different than yesterday.

7.&nbsp; The gift of balance. We all need a good balance of work and play. Maybe as grownups we need to go fly a kite or play a game of dominos.

8.&nbsp; The gift of respect. To earn respect, you must be respectful. Our children’s thoughts and opinions are very important and we need to respect them.

9.&nbsp; The gift of spirituality. Time to get to know ourselves is needed in today’s busy lifestyle.&nbsp; Preschooler often get a “time out” to think about it.&nbsp; Maybe adults need the same thing?

10.&nbsp; The gift of love. The most personal and special present is YOU!&nbsp; Your time may be the best way to share your love.

Berny Unruh is the Family and Community Wellness Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp; She can be reached at 785-628-9430 or at <a href="mailto:bunruh@ksu.edu">bunruh@ksu.edu</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/12/1576703168607.png" alt="Berny Unruh" />
 <figcaption>Berny Unruh</figcaption>
 </figure>BY BERNY UNRUH Cottonwood Extension District 	It is so close to Christmas and gifts have still not been purchased and wrapped.&nbsp; Ask yourself this question, “Do I really need to buy a gift?”&nbsp; Are there gifts that our children need that cannot be bought, but come from the heart?	Here are ten gifts that I believe we need to give our children. These were shared by a speaker at a national 4-H meeting many years ago. &nbsp;1.&nbsp; The joy of learning.&nbsp; Hopefully, we never stop learning. We can encourage our children to listen to others and learn from them. Teachers and all those who are interested in their well-being have a gift to share.2.&nbsp; The gift of hope. Isn’t it nice to know there’s still hope for our young people? Give them hope in a world that weighs a little too heavy on the negative.3.&nbsp; The gift of communication. Learn to communicate with your spouse and with your children.&nbsp; Communication involves listening and then responding and then listening again.4.&nbsp; The gift of laughter. Experts say we need to laugh 15 times a day to stay healthy.5.&nbsp; The gift of uniqueness. Let’s teach our children to be themselves.&nbsp; We do need role models, but we do not need our children to be just like so-and-so.6.&nbsp; The gift of flexibility. Try new things. Do new things. Today is different than yesterday.7.&nbsp; The gift of balance. We all need a good balance of work and play. Maybe as grownups we need to go fly a kite or play a game of dominos.8.&nbsp; The gift of respect. To earn respect, you must be respectful. Our children’s thoughts and opinions are very important and we need to respect them.9.&nbsp; The gift of spirituality. Time to get to know ourselves is needed in today’s busy lifestyle.&nbsp; Preschooler often get a “time out” to think about it.&nbsp; Maybe adults need the same thing?10.&nbsp; The gift of love. The most personal and special present is YOU!&nbsp; Your time may be the best way to share your love.	Berny Unruh is the Family and Community Wellness Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp; She can be reached at 785-628-9430 or at <a href="mailto:bunruh@ksu.edu">bunruh@ksu.edu</a>

UNRUH: The gifts we need to give

Merry Christmas, everyone! At this time of year, we bring plants into our house to help decorate for the season. Many of these, such as trees and poinsettias are removed and discarded at the end of the season, but Christmas Cactus are plants that you can enjoy all year long! I found a short article on them to share with you this week that goes over care if you have one already, or what to do if you are looking at getting a Cactus. I hope you enjoy this and I hope each and every one of you has a Very Merry Christmas!

&nbsp;Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) and Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) are epiphytes native to the jungles of South America. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants and use them for support but not for nutrients. Though these cacti are different species, they will hybridize and produce varying stem shapes. 

Christmas cactus normally has smooth stem segments, and Thanksgiving Cactus has hook-like appendages on each segment. Both of these cacti prefer bright indirect light. Too much sun can result in the leaves turning yellow. Common household temperatures are fine. Soil should be kept constantly moist but not waterlogged. Give them a light fertilization every other week. Blooming will normally cease in late winter to early spring, but continue to keep them moist and fertilized until fall. During the fall, stop fertilizing, and give the plants only enough water so the stems do not shrivel in order to encourage flower bud formation. 

Though these plants seem to flower best if kept a little pot bound, flowers will diminish if they are too crowded. If you haven't repotted in several years, or if you notice a decrease in flowering from the previous year, move the plant to a larger pot in the spring. If possible, move the plants outside for the summer. Choose a shady spot because these plants will not tolerate full sun. Leave the plants outside until frost threatens. Normally, the plants will have received enough cool nights in the 50- to 55-degree range that flower buds will have formed. However, if they haven't, subjecting the plants to nights greater than 12 hours long and temperatures between 59 and 69 degrees can also generate flowers. 

Twenty-five consecutive long nights is enough for flower initiation. Place the plants in an unused room or cover them with a dark cloth or cardboard box to insure that they receive uninterrupted darkness. After the flower buds have formed, it takes an additional nine to 10 weeks for flowers to complete development and bloom.

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District for K-State Research and Extension." />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District for K-State Research and Extension.</figcaption>
 </figure>Merry Christmas, everyone! At this time of year, we bring plants into our house to help decorate for the season. Many of these, such as trees and poinsettias are removed and discarded at the end of the season, but Christmas Cactus are plants that you can enjoy all year long! I found a short article on them to share with you this week that goes over care if you have one already, or what to do if you are looking at getting a Cactus. I hope you enjoy this and I hope each and every one of you has a Very Merry Christmas!&nbsp;Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) and Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) are epiphytes native to the jungles of South America. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants and use them for support but not for nutrients. Though these cacti are different species, they will hybridize and produce varying stem shapes. Christmas cactus normally has smooth stem segments, and Thanksgiving Cactus has hook-like appendages on each segment. Both of these cacti prefer bright indirect light. Too much sun can result in the leaves turning yellow. Common household temperatures are fine. Soil should be kept constantly moist but not waterlogged. Give them a light fertilization every other week. Blooming will normally cease in late winter to early spring, but continue to keep them moist and fertilized until fall. During the fall, stop fertilizing, and give the plants only enough water so the stems do not shrivel in order to encourage flower bud formation. Though these plants seem to flower best if kept a little pot bound, flowers will diminish if they are too crowded. If you haven't repotted in several years, or if you notice a decrease in flowering from the previous year, move the plant to a larger pot in the spring. If possible, move the plants outside for the summer. Choose a shady spot because these plants will not tolerate full sun. Leave the plants outside until frost threatens. Normally, the plants will have received enough cool nights in the 50- to 55-degree range that flower buds will have formed. However, if they haven't, subjecting the plants to nights greater than 12 hours long and temperatures between 59 and 69 degrees can also generate flowers. Twenty-five consecutive long nights is enough for flower initiation. Place the plants in an unused room or cover them with a dark cloth or cardboard box to insure that they receive uninterrupted darkness. After the flower buds have formed, it takes an additional nine to 10 weeks for flowers to complete development and bloom.Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;

BOOR: The joy of Christmas cactus

Too often producers do not notice mustard weeds in their wheat fields until the mustards start to bloom in the spring. As a result, producers often do not think about control until that time. Although it is still possible to get some control at that time with herbicides, mustards are much more difficult to control at that stage and often have already reduced wheat yields by then.

To minimize yield losses, mustards should be controlled by late winter or very early spring, before the stems begin to elongate (bolt). If mustards are present in the fall, they can be controlled with ALS-inhibiting herbicides such as Ally, Amber, Finesse, Affinity, Rave, Olympus, or PowerFlex. Huskie, Talinor, Quelex, 2,4-D, and MCPA can also provide good control of most mustards if the weeds are at the right stage of growth and actively growing, and if the wheat is at the correct growth stage (fully tillered for 2,4-D). Dicamba and Starane are not very effective for mustard control.

In the late winter or early spring, blue mustard is perhaps the most difficult of the winter annual broadleaf weeds to control because it bolts very early. To be effective on blue mustard, herbicides typically need to be applied in late February or early March. Blue mustard is more difficult to control than tansy mustard with 2,4-D because blue mustard has often already bolted by the time 2,4-D can be safely applied to wheat. Thus, 2,4-D often is applied too late to be effective on blue mustard.

Most ALS-inhibiting herbicides control winter annual mustards very well, although there are populations of bushy wall flower (treacle mustard) and flixweed in Kansas that are ALS-resistant and cannot be controlled by these products. Alternative measures will be needed to control these populations. The best approach to control ALS resistant broadleaf weeds is to use other herbicides or tank-mixes with 2,4-D, MCPA, Huskie, or Talinor. MCPA can be applied after the wheat is in the 3-leaf stage; but as mentioned above, 2,4-D should not be applied until after wheat is fully tillered -- which often does not occur until spring. Huskie and Talinor can be applied from the 2-leaf to the flag leaf stage of growth. None of these herbicides have much residual control, so the majority of weeds need to be emerged and actively growing at the time of treatment.

Quelex is a premix of a short-lived ALS herbicide and an auxin-type herbicide called halauxifen. It generally can provide good control of most mustard species. Quelex can be applied from the 2-leaf up to flag leaf emergence growth stages of wheat and should be applied in combination with nonionic surfactant or oil concentrate for control of small, actively growing weeds.&nbsp; If ALS-resistant weeds are present, Quelex alone may not be effective.

Some producers commonly apply ALS herbicides with fertilizer in January or February. Unfortunately, MCPA, 2,4-D, and Huskie are most effective when applied to actively growing weeds, so application when weeds are dormant may not provide good control. As a result, if an ALS-inhibitor tank-mix with one of these herbicides is applied to dormant ALS-resistant mustards in the winter, poor control could occur.

ALS-resistant bushy wallflower seems to be present in a number of fields in central Kansas. ALS-resistant flixweed has only been confirmed in the Saline county area, but may also be present elsewhere. Producers should watch for cases of poor control, and consider alternative herbicides or herbicide tank-mixes to help prevent or manage ALS-resistant weeds.

Crop rotation with corn, grain sorghum, soybeans, or sunflowers is a good way of managing mustards as long as they are controlled in the spring prior to producing seed. Crop rotation will usually result in a gradual reduction of mustard populations in the future as the seedbank in the soil gradually decreases.

For detailed information concerning the different mustard species in Kansas, see the article on our web site <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp; “Kansas weeds: Know your mustard species”.

Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1574181994278.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Too often producers do not notice mustard weeds in their wheat fields until the mustards start to bloom in the spring. As a result, producers often do not think about control until that time. Although it is still possible to get some control at that time with herbicides, mustards are much more difficult to control at that stage and often have already reduced wheat yields by then.To minimize yield losses, mustards should be controlled by late winter or very early spring, before the stems begin to elongate (bolt). If mustards are present in the fall, they can be controlled with ALS-inhibiting herbicides such as Ally, Amber, Finesse, Affinity, Rave, Olympus, or PowerFlex. Huskie, Talinor, Quelex, 2,4-D, and MCPA can also provide good control of most mustards if the weeds are at the right stage of growth and actively growing, and if the wheat is at the correct growth stage (fully tillered for 2,4-D). Dicamba and Starane are not very effective for mustard control.In the late winter or early spring, blue mustard is perhaps the most difficult of the winter annual broadleaf weeds to control because it bolts very early. To be effective on blue mustard, herbicides typically need to be applied in late February or early March. Blue mustard is more difficult to control than tansy mustard with 2,4-D because blue mustard has often already bolted by the time 2,4-D can be safely applied to wheat. Thus, 2,4-D often is applied too late to be effective on blue mustard.Most ALS-inhibiting herbicides control winter annual mustards very well, although there are populations of bushy wall flower (treacle mustard) and flixweed in Kansas that are ALS-resistant and cannot be controlled by these products. Alternative measures will be needed to control these populations. The best approach to control ALS resistant broadleaf weeds is to use other herbicides or tank-mixes with 2,4-D, MCPA, Huskie, or Talinor. MCPA can be applied after the wheat is in the 3-leaf stage; but as mentioned above, 2,4-D should not be applied until after wheat is fully tillered -- which often does not occur until spring. Huskie and Talinor can be applied from the 2-leaf to the flag leaf stage of growth. None of these herbicides have much residual control, so the majority of weeds need to be emerged and actively growing at the time of treatment.Quelex is a premix of a short-lived ALS herbicide and an auxin-type herbicide called halauxifen. It generally can provide good control of most mustard species. Quelex can be applied from the 2-leaf up to flag leaf emergence growth stages of wheat and should be applied in combination with nonionic surfactant or oil concentrate for control of small, actively growing weeds.&nbsp; If ALS-resistant weeds are present, Quelex alone may not be effective.Some producers commonly apply ALS herbicides with fertilizer in January or February. Unfortunately, MCPA, 2,4-D, and Huskie are most effective when applied to actively growing weeds, so application when weeds are dormant may not provide good control. As a result, if an ALS-inhibitor tank-mix with one of these herbicides is applied to dormant ALS-resistant mustards in the winter, poor control could occur.ALS-resistant bushy wallflower seems to be present in a number of fields in central Kansas. ALS-resistant flixweed has only been confirmed in the Saline county area, but may also be present elsewhere. Producers should watch for cases of poor control, and consider alternative herbicides or herbicide tank-mixes to help prevent or manage ALS-resistant weeds.Crop rotation with corn, grain sorghum, soybeans, or sunflowers is a good way of managing mustards as long as they are controlled in the spring prior to producing seed. Crop rotation will usually result in a gradual reduction of mustard populations in the future as the seedbank in the soil gradually decreases.For detailed information concerning the different mustard species in Kansas, see the article on our web site <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp; “Kansas weeds: Know your mustard species”.Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430.

CAMPBELL: Timely treatment key to control of mustards in wheat

<img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141404420.png">Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. Two and a half years ago, we received word from the Kansas Attorney General’s office that the Cottonwood Extension District #17 had been approved. Months of hard work by our Extension supporters preceded the formal announcement. Our board, consisting of four members from each county, has held monthly meetings to stay abreast of the business of running an Extension District. At the end of this month we will say good bye and thank you to two of our outgoing board members and welcome two new faces to the board in January.&nbsp; Rhiannon Corn from Ellis County and Steve Tustin from Barton County will both be stepping off the board and I want to publicly say “thank you” for your support and hard work on the board. Allen Roth, from Ellis County, and Kathie Rondeau, from Barton County, were re-elected to another term on the Executive board. Tatum Kimsey, from Ellis County, and Dick Dougherty, from Barton County, were elected on November 5th and will begin their 4 year terms in January 2020. Four additional board members will continue to serve through 2021. They include: Nathan Leiker and Ramie Wasinger, from Ellis County and Deanna Essmiller and Natalie Fullerton, from Barton County.&nbsp; The Cottonwood Extension District includes a staff of seven agents and two office professionals. Our goals include providing research based information to help improve the quality of life of the individuals we serve. I hope you have had an opportunity to utilize our services. Perhaps you have worked with one of our Agriculture agents, Alicia Boor or Stacy Campbell, to learn about wheat varieties that do well in our region or about details of the Farm Bill. If your family is involved in 4-H or after school programs, you have two experienced agents, Susan Schlichting and Michelle Beran, leading the youth development program in our district.&nbsp; Take time to introduce yourself to our Horticulture Agent, Lauren Fick. Lauren divides her time between the two counties and is excited to provide leadership to a successful Master Gardener program and answer yard, garden and tree questions you may have. And finally, Berny Unruh and I are committed to bringing Extension educational programming related to nutrition, health and wellness, food safety, family resource management, aging issues, and family life in general. I also want to mention our two experienced office professionals. Brenda Walton, in the Great Bend office, takes the lead with the finances for the district while Theresa Meis, in the Hays office, focuses on communicating our efforts through newsletters and our web site. Both Brenda and Theresa handle a multitude of other duties that keep our offices running smoothly. We’ve also appreciated having Kory Ridnour, our intern, help us&nbsp;with media and the marketing of our programs. It is great news that K-State Research and Extension has answers to many of lifes’ questions, typically at no or low cost. Unlike what you might find through a Google search, the answers we provide are research based and non-biased. I hope you will take a look at our Cottonwood web site. We have tried a different format for our newsletter that I think you will like. We hope to see you at some of our upcoming programs.&nbsp; Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

KRUG: Thanks to outgoing board members

Anaplasmosis is a disease caused by bacteria affecting red blood cells in ruminants including cattle. While livestock of all ages can be infected with the illness, it is rarely fatal to the young, but quite serious in adult animals. It can cause abortion, weakness, rapid weight loss, and even death. Anaplasmosis is contracted by either biting horse flies or ticks as well as via dehorning, needles, as well as surgical or tattoo instruments if the equipment is not properly cleaned after each use. The disease is on the rise and found throughout Kansas including Barton and Ellis counties. Education and proper practices are key to keeping your cattle healthy. On December 18th, the Cottonwood Extension District will host an Anaplasmosis and safe vaccine handling program in both Ellis and Barton counties. Dr. Gregg Hanzlicek, DVM from KSU College of Veterinary Medicine will discuss what you need to know about Anaplasmosis and how to prevent it in your herd.&nbsp;Alicia Boor, KSRE Agriculture Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District will also talk about vaccines and how to safely handle and administer to your livestock. In Great Bend the program is set at the American Ag Credit building at 5634 10th St. from8:30 – 10:00 a.m. Following in Hays the program will be presented from 12 – 2:00 at the Ellis Co. Extension office at 601 Main St. Please RSVP to Alicia Boor at 620-793-1910 for either program to insure enough program materials are available.&nbsp;Snacks and a noon meal will be provided by the Kansas State Veterinary Diagnostics Laboratory. If you have any questions, or would like more information, you can contact me by calling 620-793-1910, by email at <a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">aboor@ksu.edu</a> or just drop by the office located at 1800 12th street in Great Bend. Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent for the Cottonwood District, which includes Barton and Ellis counties.

BOOR: Cattle disease, proper prevention is topic of seminar

 🎤CAMPBELL: The 2018 Farm Bill 

<img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/12/1575316060744.jpeg">COTTONWOOD EXTENSION Women involved in agriculture should make plans to attend the “Surviving to Thriving: Care for Yourself to Care for the Farm – Women in Ag Workshop” to be held on Monday, Dec. 9 at the K-State Agricultural Research Center in Hays, 1232 240th Avenue. Registration and supper begins at 5:30 p.m. and the program will be from 6:00 to 8:30 p.m. Come listen to Will Stutterheim with the Fort Hay State University Kelly Center talk about his experiences with the farm crisis and mental health; Kaley Conner with High Plains Mental Health will give tips on nurturing your mental health; Berny Unruh with Cottonwood Extension will discuss healthy eating for the busy farm family; and Meagan Cramer with Kansas Farm Bureau will finish out the evening sharing organizational tips on bullet journaling and organizing your brain. Advance registration is requested by Dec. 4 to the Ellis County Conservation District at 785-628-3081, extension 3. A $5 fee for the meal can be made payable in advance to the Conservation District at 2715 Canterbury, Hays, Kansas 67601, or at the event. A meal cannot be guaranteed for those who don’t register in advance. The workshop is sponsored by Ellis Co. Farm Bureau, Ellis Co. Conservation District, Farm Service Agency, High Plains Mental Health, K-State Research and Extension Cottonwood District and the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service.

 'Surviving to thriving' workshop addresses women in agriculture

🎤'Surviving to thriving' workshop addresses women in agriculture

<img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1574802720194.jpeg">Donna Krug is the Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent and District Director for the Cottonwood Extension District. Tuesday is a special day designated as “Dining In Day.” Research has shown that the whole family benefits from family mealtime by having better nutrition, improving family communication, fostering family traditions, and teaching life skills, such as meal planning,&nbsp;budgeting, and food preparation. Encouraging families to prepare simple, healthy meals and eat&nbsp;together supports the essence of my job as a family and consumer sciences educator: “Creating&nbsp;Healthy and Sustainable Families” is my goal.&nbsp; I know how challenging it can be for busy families to actually sit down together for a meal that&nbsp;is prepared at home. Work schedules and kids who need to be shuttled to sports or activities&nbsp;interrupt plans to prepare a healthy meal at home. When our three kids were growing up, my&nbsp;middle child, Adam, would call me every day when he arrived home from school and ask what&nbsp;was for supper. As a 6th grader, I believe he prepared as many skillet meals and spaghetti and&nbsp;meatballs as I did. And to his credit, he often prepares the evening meal for his busy family now. Revisiting a popular program from a couple of years ago titled, “Freezer Ready Slow Cooker&nbsp;Meals” can be a great way to make “Dining In Day” a success at your house. Twelve recipes,&nbsp;complete with a shopping list, takes a lot of the guess work out of meal preparation. Pulling one&nbsp;of the prepared meals out of the freezer in the evening and thawing in the fridge, makes this an&nbsp;easy prep. Cooking the ingredients in a slow cooker while you are at work the next day, means supper is ready when you walk in the door! I’ll be happy to share the Freezer-Ready Slow&nbsp;Cooker meals recipes and handout. Just give me a call or send me an e-mail. With my busy work schedule, I am blessed to have my husband John plan a prepare most of&nbsp;our evening meals. I’m not sure what is on our menu for December 3rd, but I’m betting we will be&nbsp;“Dining In.” I would love to hear your “Dining In” stories! Donna Krug is the Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent and District Director for the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

KRUG: 'Dining In' for healthy families

<img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141087694.png">Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. Soils across most of Kansas are now cool enough to allow producers to apply anhydrous ammonia for their 2020 corn crop. This practice has some appeal to producers. For one thing, fall fertilizer application spreads out the workload so there’s more time to focus on corn planting in the spring. Secondly, wet conditions in the spring sometimes prevents producers from applying lower-cost anhydrous ammonia ahead of corn planting, and forces them to apply more expensive sources after planting. Equally important for many producers have been issues with anhydrous ammonia availability at times in the spring.&nbsp; Despite those advantages, producers should be aware that there is potential for higher nitrogen (N) loss in the spring following a fall application, as a result of nitrification of the ammonium during late winter and very early spring and subsequent leaching, or denitrification. Reactions of anhydrous ammonia in the soilWhen anhydrous ammonia is applied to the soil, a large portion of the ammonia is converted to ammonium (NH4+, and can be bound to clay and organic matter particles within the soil. As long as the nitrogen remains in the ammonium form, it can be retained on the clay and organic matter, and does not readily move in most soils except sandy soils with very low CEC, so leaching is not an issue. At soil temperatures above freezing, nitrification occurs - ammonium is converted by specific soil microbes into nitrate-N (NO3-). Since this is a microbial reaction, it is very strongly influenced by soil temperatures. The higher the temperature, the quicker the conversion will occur. Depending on soil temperature, pH, and moisture content, it can take 2-3 months or longer to convert all the ammonia applied in late summer/early fall to nitrate. By delaying application until cold weather, most of the applied N can enter the winter as ammonium, and over-winter losses of the applied N will be minimal. Traditionally, producers should wait until soil temperatures are less than 50 degrees F at a depth of 4 inches before applying ammonia in the fall or early winter. Nitrification does not cease below 50 degrees F, but rather soils will likely become cold enough to limit the nitrification process. In many areas of Kansas, soils may stay warmer than 50 degrees well into late-fall and only freeze for short periods during the winter. The use of a nitrification inhibitor such as N-Serve can help reduce N losses from fall N applications under specific conditions, particularly during periods when soil temperatures warm back up for a period after application. One should also consider soil physical properties when considering fall application. Fall applications of N for corn should not be made on sandy soils prone to leaching, particularly those over shallow, unprotected aquifers. Rather, fall N applications should focus on deep, medium- to heavy-textured soils where water movement through the profile is slower. When is N lost?When considering fall application of N, keep in mind that loss of N during the fall and winter is not normally a problem in Kansas. The conversion of “protected” ammonium to “loss prone” nitrate during the fall and winter can be minimized by waiting to make applications until soils have cooled, and by using products such as nitrification inhibitors. The fact that essentially all the N may remain in the soil as ammonium all winter, coupled with our dry winters, means minimal N is likely to be lost over winter. However, soils often warm up early in the spring and allow nitrification to get started well before corn planting. Generally, if the wheat is greening up, nitrification has begun! Thus, one of the potential downsides of fall application is that nitrification can begin in late February and March, and essentially be complete before the corn crop takes up much N in late May and June. SummaryThe bottom line is this: If anhydrous ammonia is to be applied in the fall, there are a number of factors that must be considered, including soil texture, temperature, and soil moisture. Consider the following guidelines: <ul><li>Do not apply anhydrous ammonia in the fall on sandy soils.</li><li>On silt loam or heavier-textured soils, wait to apply anhydrous ammonia until soil temperatures at the 4-inch depth are below 50 degrees F (records indicate in most years this will be in November).</li><li>Use a nitrification inhibitor such as N-Serve with anhydrous ammonia to help reduce fall nitrification rates.</li><li>To check the soil temperature in your area visit the K-State Research and Extension Weather Data Library at: <a href="http://mesonet.k-state.edu/agriculture/soiltemp/" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">http://mesonet.k-state.edu/agriculture/soiltemp/</a></li></ul>Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430.

CAMPBELL: Fall application of anhydrous ammonia

<h4>Submitted</h4>&nbsp;MANHATTAN, Kan. —&nbsp;Women involved in agriculture should make plans to attend the “Surviving to Thriving: Care for Yourself to Care for the Farm – Women in Ag Workshop” to be held on Monday, Dec. 9 at the K-State Agricultural Research Center in Hays, 1232 240th&nbsp;Avenue. Registration and supper begins at 5:30 p.m. and the program will be from 6:00 to 8:30. Come listen to Will Stutterheim with the Fort Hay State University Kelly Center talk about his experiences with the farm crisis and mental health; Kaley Conner with High Plains Mental Health will give tips on nurturing your mental health; Berny Unruh with Cottonwood Extension will discuss healthy eating for the busy farm family; and Meagan Cramer with Kansas Farm Bureau will finish out the evening sharing organizational tips on bullet journaling and organizing your brain. Advance registration is requested by Dec. 4 to the Ellis County Conservation District at 785-628-3081, extension 3. A $5 fee for the meal can be made payable in advance to the Conservation District at 2715 Canterbury, Hays, Kansas 67601, or at the event. A meal cannot be guaranteed for those who don’t register in advance. The workshop is sponsored by Ellis Co. Farm Bureau, Ellis Co. Conservation District, Farm Service Agency, High Plains Mental Health, K-State Research and Extension Cottonwood District and the USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service.&nbsp;

Workshop in Hays will focus on mental health, farm crisis, nutrition and more

HAYS -- Women involved in agriculture should make plans to attend the “Surviving to Thriving: Care for Yourself to Care for the Farm – Women in Ag Workshop” to be held on Dec. 9 at the K-State Agricultural Research Center in Hays.&nbsp; Registration and supper begins at 5:30 p.m. and the program will be from 6 to 8:30 p.m. Come listen to Will Stutterheim with the Fort Hay State University Kelly Center talk about his experiences with the farm crisis and mental health; Kaley Conner with High Plains Mental Health will give tips on nurturing your mental health; Berny Unruh with Cottonwood Extension will discuss healthy eating for the busy farm family; and Meagan Cramer with Kansas Farm Bureau will finish out the evening sharing organizational tips on bullet journaling and organizing your brain. Advance registration is requested by Dec. 4 to the Ellis County Conservation District at 785-628-3081, extension 3. A $5 fee for the meal can be made payable in advance to the Conservation District at 2715 Canterbury, Hays, Kansas 67601, or at the event. A meal cannot be guaranteed for those who don’t register in advance. The workshop is sponsored by Ellis Co. Farm Bureau, Ellis Co. Conservation District, Farm Service Agency, High Plains Mental Health, K-State Research and Extension Cottonwood District and the USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service.

Surviving to Thriving: Care for Yourself to Care for the Farm

<img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141417887.jpeg">November is National Diabetes Month, so it is the perfect time to bring awareness about diabetes and its impact on individuals and families. There is a strong link between diabetes and cardiovascular disease, so in order to equip individuals and communities with information that will increase awareness of the diabetes-heart disease link, there are some excellent resources at my fingertips. Care for self is a key element in healthy relationships. Similar to the airline reminder that in an emergency you should “put on your oxygen mask before attempting to help others”, taking care of your own health is critical to caring for your family. A lifestyle that includes regular exercise and a healthy dose of fruits and vegetables can improve physical and mental health.&nbsp; According to the National Institute of Diabetes and Digestive and Kidney Diseases (NIDDKD, one in four Americans has diabetes and does not know it. The American Diabetes Association Diabetes Risk Test provides a quick and easy way to determine risk for type 2 diabetes. I took the test, located at the following website: <a href="http://www.diabetes.org/risk-test" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">www.diabetes.org/risk-test</a>&nbsp;I was happy to learn that I am currently at low risk for developing diabetes. Of course that can change as we age, or if we experience other health issues, like high blood pressure. Factors like getting plenty of exercise and maintaining a healthy weight are important determinants for whether or not diabetes will be in your future. And, if you are the parents of young children you need to be aware that nearly 1/3 of American youth are overweight. This fact directly relates to the increase in kids who have type 2 diabetes, some as young as 10 years old. Parents have the power to make healthy changes that give kids the best chance to prevent type 2 diabetes. And when the whole family makes changes together, it is easier to create healthy habits that stick. Get started with these simple but effective tips for healthy eating and being active family style. <ul><li>Drink more&nbsp;<a href="https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/healthy_eating/drinks.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">water</a>&nbsp;and fewer sugary drinks.</li><li>Eat more&nbsp;<a href="https://www.cdc.gov/healthyweight/healthy_eating/fruits_vegetables.html" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">fruits and vegetables</a>.</li><li>Make favorite foods healthier.</li><li>Get kids involved in making healthier meals.</li><li>Eat slowly—it takes at least 20 minutes to start feeling full.</li><li>Eat at the dinner table only, not in front of the TV or computer.</li><li>Shop for food together.</li><li>Shop on a full stomach so you’re not tempted to buy unhealthy food.</li><li>Teach your kids to read food labels to understand which foods are healthiest.</li><li>Don’t insist kids clean their plates.</li><li>Serve small portions; let kids ask for seconds.</li><li>Reward kids with praise instead of food.</li></ul>Getting Physical<ul><li>Aim for your child to get 60 minutes of physical activity a day, in several 10- or 15-minute sessions or all at once.</li><li>Start slow and build up.</li><li>Keep it positive—focus on progress.</li><li>Take parent and kid fitness classes together.</li><li>Make physical activity more fun; try new things.</li><li>Ask kids what activities they like best—everyone is different.</li><li>Encourage kids to join a sports team.</li><li>Have a “fit kit” available—a jump rope, hand weights, resistance bands.</li><li>Limit screen time to 2 hours a day.</li><li>Plan active outings, like hiking or biking.</li><li>Take walks together.</li><li>Move more in and out of the house—vacuuming, raking leaves, gardening.</li><li>Turn chores into games, like racing to see how fast you can clean the house.</li></ul> Donna Krug is the Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent and District Director for the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

KRUG: Marking Diabetes Awareness Month

<img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1574181994278.png">As we move into fall and the slowly, or not so slowly, falling temperatures, not only dowe get to deal with 6 and 8 legged invaders to our homes and buildings, but also some 4 legged types: rodents! While we can spray for the 6 and 8 legged invaders, we can’t spray for the 4-legged ones and we have to take some different tactics. The good thing is that anything that we do to seal the structure against insects, also helps to reduce the chance of invasion by rats and mice. Obviously rats and mice need bigger openings than crickets and spiders, but the simple act of sealing openings into the house is a good first step. Secondly, don’t allow excessive plant growth to occur around your house. This simply provides hiding places for rodents as they try to figure out how to get in to your home. The next step is a very simple but very important one. Always keep doors closed. It canbe an easy thing to leave the door from the kitchen to the garage open while you carry in bags of groceries. But this 30 or 60 or 90 second window of opportunity is all that is needed to let all sorts of critters into your home. Make no mistake, these rascals are fast and once they are in your house they will disappear in a heartbeat to who knows what little hiding places they can find. There’s no less than a half dozen species of mice or mice like critters that will find theirway into your house. While many people use poison baits for control I’m not a big fan of this as mice can go outside to ultimately die where predators can find them, eat them and then become sick from secondary poisoning. Additionally, there’s no poison that will keep the mouse from stinking if it dies in your home. With a trap, you’ve got it, you know you’ve got it and you can dispose of it! Traps arevery effective when properly set. There’s all sorts of “better” mousetraps out there but I like the good old standby snap trap, easy and effective. Place them with the trigger against the wall, even two side by side to improve effectiveness. I frequently bait mousetraps with peanut butter, the cheaper and oilier the better! I’m not a fan of glue boards or sticky traps though. While they work, you then have a live mouse you have to deal with. The disgusting Norway rat, the big rat with a naked tail that is often the culprit of “ratinfested tenement buildings” is not normally found around homes. It is more likely to be seen in large commercial structures. We do have two native rats, the hispid cotton rat and the eastern woodrat, the latter is better known as the pack rat. Cotton rats are not likely to enter into homes as they feel far more at home in grasslands, field edges and the edges of timbered areas. The woodrat builds huge stick nests, outside of homes and are a big problem becausethey love to collect manmade items to store in their nest. They are often attracted to oneparticular color or one type of object and they can become just a little bit obsessive going after those items. The biggest issue is that they like to get up inside engine compartments of vehicles and start biting off wires to haul back to the nest. The damage that they cause can run into the thousands of dollars. Baits often aren’t effective as they haul it back to the nest but don’t eat it. Trapping can work better especially if you’ve figured out what color they like and then put something that color on the trigger. If you aren’t sure, start with baiting some traps with peanut butter and on others wrap the trigger with aluminum foil. You can also leave hoods of cars ajar or put lights in the engine compartment to discourage packrat activity. Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430.

CAMPBELL: Dealing with autumn rodents

&nbsp;<img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png">Even though gardening season is over, gardeners themselves never stop learning, growing and giving.&nbsp;This is the essence of what it means to be a Master Gardener.&nbsp;If you enjoy learning and giving back as a volunteer, consider becoming a Master Gardener in 2020. Now is the time to apply and reserve your spot for the 2020 training course.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Master Gardener basic training classes will be held at the Hays Extension office beging January 29, 2020 and run Wednesdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. through March 18th.&nbsp;Topics covered include: basic botany, soil fertility, insects, diseases, tree and shrub care, vegetables, fruit gardening, turf management, wildlife, landscape design and more.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Who are Master Gardeners?Master Gardeners are K-State Research &amp; Extension volunteers who enjoy cultivating their own plants and gardens while sharing their skills and knowledge with the community around them to help others grow.&nbsp;Master Gardening is a wonderful way to enrich your life and the lives of others.&nbsp;Why become a Master Gardener?The decision to become a Master Gardener can be very rewarding.&nbsp;It is a decision to take your horticulture knowledge to the next level, and it is also a commitment to find creative ways to make a difference in our community while sharing that knowledge with the people and places around you. Training is just one great benefit.&nbsp;Master Gardeners receive a 40-hour-plus horticulture training course from K-State Extension specialists and county Extension agents.&nbsp;The basic training provides a great starting point for those new to gardening, but is also in depth enough to apply to gardeners of any skill level.&nbsp;Other benefits of being a Master Gardener include the camaraderie of people who share similar passions, receiving ongoing horticulture support through K-State Research and Extension, and occasional visits to horticultural places of interest.&nbsp;What about volunteering?&nbsp;Once training is complete, Master Gardeners take their knowledge out to the community to share it with others in unique and meaningful ways.&nbsp;First year Master Gardeners volunteer 40 hours of time and during succeeding years have a commitment of just 20 hours to remain active.&nbsp;Master Gardeners are encouraged to find their creativity in looking for ways to impact the community.&nbsp;A few activities many Master Gardeners enjoy volunteering on include:&nbsp;the demonstration garden, county fairs, educational garden tours and events, and booths at public events.&nbsp;Use these two questions to help determine if the Master Gardener program is right for you: • Are you available for about 40 hours of daytime classes on Wednesdays from February through March?•&nbsp;Do you have the interest and the time to attend monthly Master Gardener meetings and donate 40 hours of horticultural service to our community during the first year?&nbsp;If you are interested in joining the program or have questions regarding any of this information call the K-State Research &amp; Extension office.&nbsp;We need notification of interest as soon as possible as space is limited.&nbsp;Applications can be filled out or downloaded online at&nbsp;cottonwood.k-state.edu&nbsp;or picked up at the Extension office and are due by January 8, 2020.&nbsp;The Great Bend office can be contacted at 620-793-1910 and the Ellis county office is 785-628-9430.&nbsp;We look forward to hearing from you! Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by email at <a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">aboor@ksu.edu</a> or calling 620-793-1910