Larry Allen Towns, 71, of Colby, died Monday, July 5, 2021, at Hays 
Medical Center. He was born July 12, 1949, in Thomas County, KS, to 
Lawrence and Wilma (Kistler) Towns. Larry graduated from Colby High 
School in 1967 and Kansas State University in 1971, with a degree in 
Horticulture. He married Berna Wiens on April 13, 1969, in Colby. After 
Larry graduated college, they moved back to Colby to farm the family 
land he had cared for since the age of 15, when his father passed away. 
Larry went on to grow his farming operation and on the first day of corn
 harvest in 1985, he suffered a heart attack. This did not stop him 
though. Larry served on the Mingo COOP Board, Farm Bureau Board and was 
the president of the North Shore Cabin Area, at Cedar Bluff Lake. He was
 baptized at the Winona United Methodist Church. Larry enjoyed snow 
skiing, farming, fishing, lake time, and attending his grandchildren’s 
sporting events. 
He was preceded in death by his parents; stepfather, Paul Pabst and sister Laura Hansen. 
Larry is survived by his wife Berna; children, Tracy (Terry) Johnson, of
 Holcomb, KS and Travis (Carrie) Towns, of Monument, KS; grandchildren, 
Taylor and Tanner Johnson and Nathan Towns and siblings, Leroy (Jean) 
Towns and Lois (Larry) Struckmeyer. 
Visitation is 5-7:00 p.m. Thursday, July 7, 2021, at Baalmann Mortuary, 
Colby. Funeral Service is 10:00 a.m. Friday, July 8, 2021, also at the 
Mortuary. Memorials may be made to the Northwest Kansas Foundation for 
Hope and sent in care of Baalmann Mortuary, PO Box 391, Colby, KS 67701.
 For information or condolences visit www.baalmannmortuary.com&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1625579706491.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Larry Allen Towns, 71, of Colby, died Monday, July 5, 2021, at Hays 
Medical Center. He was born July 12, 1949, in Thomas County, KS, to 
Lawrence and Wilma (Kistler) Towns. Larry graduated from Colby High 
School in 1967 and Kansas State University in 1971, with a degree in 
Horticulture. He married Berna Wiens on April 13, 1969, in Colby. After 
Larry graduated college, they moved back to Colby to farm the family 
land he had cared for since the age of 15, when his father passed away. 
Larry went on to grow his farming operation and on the first day of corn
 harvest in 1985, he suffered a heart attack. This did not stop him 
though. Larry served on the Mingo COOP Board, Farm Bureau Board and was 
the president of the North Shore Cabin Area, at Cedar Bluff Lake. He was
 baptized at the Winona United Methodist Church. Larry enjoyed snow 
skiing, farming, fishing, lake time, and attending his grandchildren’s 
sporting events. 
He was preceded in death by his parents; stepfather, Paul Pabst and sister Laura Hansen. 
Larry is survived by his wife Berna; children, Tracy (Terry) Johnson, of
 Holcomb, KS and Travis (Carrie) Towns, of Monument, KS; grandchildren, 
Taylor and Tanner Johnson and Nathan Towns and siblings, Leroy (Jean) 
Towns and Lois (Larry) Struckmeyer. 
Visitation is 5-7:00 p.m. Thursday, July 7, 2021, at Baalmann Mortuary, 
Colby. Funeral Service is 10:00 a.m. Friday, July 8, 2021, also at the 
Mortuary. Memorials may be made to the Northwest Kansas Foundation for 
Hope and sent in care of Baalmann Mortuary, PO Box 391, Colby, KS 67701.
 For information or condolences visit www.baalmannmortuary.com&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

Larry Allen Towns

K-State's Upham explains reasons, offers solutions&nbsp;

MANHATTAN – For Kansas gardeners, watching vegetables bloom but not set fruit can be very frustrating.&nbsp;

Yet, for various reasons, that often happens this is the time of year, says Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham.&nbsp;

“There are several possible reasons,” he said. “One condition that can affect several species is over-fertilization.”&nbsp;

Upham said that too much nitrogen in the soil causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Over-fertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers that do produce.&nbsp;

“This is especially true of tomatoes,” Upham said. “Over-fertilized tomatoes will produce a large, apparently healthy plant with no flowers, or flowers that don’t set fruit.”&nbsp;

Tomatoes, a popular choice of many gardeners, also won’t set fruit if the night-time temperature falls below 50 degrees F, which leads to sparse pollen production, according to Upham.&nbsp;

“They also won’t set when night-time temperatures are above 75 degree and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees with hot, dry winds,” he said. “Under such conditions, fertilization is not completed and no fruit develops. However, cherry tomatoes may be more forgiving of high temperatures than the larger slicers and will often set fruit in the heat.”&nbsp;

Upham said that many other crops – including squash, cucumbers, watermelon and muskmelon – can experience other problems.&nbsp;

“First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male; the production of male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes,” he said. “You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom.”&nbsp;

Upham said that if gardeners see both male and female flowers, have not fertilized, but still have a problem, it could be that the garden does not have enough pollinators.&nbsp;

“Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants,” Upham said. “If you don’t see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on any of those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators.”&nbsp;

Upham also cautioned against the over-use of insecticides, which can kill pollinators. He advises spraying near dusk when flowers have closed.&nbsp;

Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu" target="_blank">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1625444048167.jpeg" alt="Temperature and the amount of fertilizer used can affect tomato production. Salina Post photo" />
 <figcaption>Temperature and the amount of fertilizer used can affect tomato production. Salina Post photo</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State's Upham explains reasons, offers solutions&nbsp;</h2>MANHATTAN – For Kansas gardeners, watching vegetables bloom but not set fruit can be very frustrating.&nbsp;Yet, for various reasons, that often happens this is the time of year, says Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham.&nbsp;“There are several possible reasons,” he said. “One condition that can affect several species is over-fertilization.”&nbsp;Upham said that too much nitrogen in the soil causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Over-fertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers that do produce.&nbsp;“This is especially true of tomatoes,” Upham said. “Over-fertilized tomatoes will produce a large, apparently healthy plant with no flowers, or flowers that don’t set fruit.”&nbsp;Tomatoes, a popular choice of many gardeners, also won’t set fruit if the night-time temperature falls below 50 degrees F, which leads to sparse pollen production, according to Upham.&nbsp;“They also won’t set when night-time temperatures are above 75 degree and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees with hot, dry winds,” he said. “Under such conditions, fertilization is not completed and no fruit develops. However, cherry tomatoes may be more forgiving of high temperatures than the larger slicers and will often set fruit in the heat.”&nbsp;Upham said that many other crops – including squash, cucumbers, watermelon and muskmelon – can experience other problems.&nbsp;“First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male; the production of male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes,” he said. “You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom.”&nbsp;Upham said that if gardeners see both male and female flowers, have not fertilized, but still have a problem, it could be that the garden does not have enough pollinators.&nbsp;“Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants,” Upham said. “If you don’t see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on any of those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators.”&nbsp;Upham also cautioned against the over-use of insecticides, which can kill pollinators. He advises spraying near dusk when flowers have closed.&nbsp;Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu" target="_blank">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

Are your vegetables blooming…but no fruit? 

We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather. There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum. Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection.

The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't allow your seeding or overseeding rates to become too high.&nbsp;Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (BioAdvanced Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). 

But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Often tall fescue lawns will recover from brown patch but infections this year seem more severe than usual and may require overseeding this fall.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather. There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum. Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection. The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't allow your seeding or overseeding rates to become too high.&nbsp;Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (BioAdvanced Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Often tall fescue lawns will recover from brown patch but infections this year seem more severe than usual and may require overseeding this fall.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Brown patch on tall fescue

Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing season. &nbsp;But many people dislike both these characteristics. &nbsp;Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive.

Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the tall fescue portion of the lawn is green. Bermuda is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun.So, how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Therefore, you will need to reseed treated areas. In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.​Spray about the middle of July (or when the bermuda is growing well). Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two weeks and scalp the lawn (mow as low as possible and remove clippings.) &nbsp;This will prevent dead grass from covering any bermuda that starts to recover. Wait another two weeks and spray again with glyphosate if there is any green. Wait two more weeks and reseed. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing season. &nbsp;But many people dislike both these characteristics. &nbsp;Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive.Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the tall fescue portion of the lawn is green. Bermuda is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun.So, how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Therefore, you will need to reseed treated areas. In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.​Spray about the middle of July (or when the bermuda is growing well). Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two weeks and scalp the lawn (mow as low as possible and remove clippings.) &nbsp;This will prevent dead grass from covering any bermuda that starts to recover. Wait another two weeks and spray again with glyphosate if there is any green. Wait two more weeks and reseed. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

FICK: Bermudagrass control

Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads, and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid-to late-summer. So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is NOT the time to control it unless it is in an area where a non-selective herbicide that kills everything such as glyphosate (Roundup) can be used. The best control for little barley in turf is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding in early September can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. However, if you do not plan to overseed even though the lawn is a bit thin, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is&nbsp; Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Weed Impede can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue that is grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr) a pre-emergent, is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide about mid-September and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads, and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid-to late-summer. So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is NOT the time to control it unless it is in an area where a non-selective herbicide that kills everything such as glyphosate (Roundup) can be used. The best control for little barley in turf is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding in early September can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. However, if you do not plan to overseed even though the lawn is a bit thin, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is&nbsp; Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Weed Impede can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue that is grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr) a pre-emergent, is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide about mid-September and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Little barley in lawns 

June is the time to fertilize warm-season lawn grasses such as bermudagrass, buffalograss, and zoysiagrass. These species all thrive in warmer summer weather, so this is the time they respond best to fertilization. The most important nutrient is nitrogen (N), and these three species need it in varying amounts. Bermudagrass requires the most nitrogen. High-quality Bermuda stands need about 4 lbs. nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season (low maintenance areas can get by on 2 lbs.). Apply this as four separate applications, about 4 weeks apart, of 1 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. starting in early May. It is already too late for the May application, but the June application is just around the corner. The nitrogen can come from either a quick- or slow-release source. So any lawn fertilizer will work.

Plan the last application no later than August 15. This helps ensure the bermudagrass is not overstimulated, making it susceptible to winter kill. Zoysiagrass grows more slowly than bermudagrass and is prone to develop thatch. &nbsp;Consequently, it does not need as much nitrogen. In fact, too much is worse than too little. One and one-half to 2 pounds N per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season is sufficient. Split the total in two and apply once in early June and again around mid-July.

Slow-release nitrogen is preferable but quick-release is acceptable. Slow-release nitrogen is sometimes listed as “slowly available” or “water insoluble.”​Buffalograss requires the least nitrogen of all lawn species commonly grown in Kansas. It will survive and persist with no supplemental nitrogen but giving it one lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. will improve color and density. 

This application should be made in early June. For a little darker color, fertilize it as described for zoysiagrass in the previous paragraph, but do not apply more than a total of 2 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. in one season. &nbsp;As with zoysia, slow-release nitrogen is preferable, but fast-release is also OK. As for all turfgrasses, phosphorus and potassium are best applied according to soil test results because many soils already have adequate amounts of these nutrients for turfgrass growth. If you need to apply phosphorus or potassium, it is best to core aerate beforehand to ensure the nutrients reach the roots. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>June is the time to fertilize warm-season lawn grasses such as bermudagrass, buffalograss, and zoysiagrass. These species all thrive in warmer summer weather, so this is the time they respond best to fertilization. The most important nutrient is nitrogen (N), and these three species need it in varying amounts. Bermudagrass requires the most nitrogen. High-quality Bermuda stands need about 4 lbs. nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season (low maintenance areas can get by on 2 lbs.). Apply this as four separate applications, about 4 weeks apart, of 1 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. starting in early May. It is already too late for the May application, but the June application is just around the corner. The nitrogen can come from either a quick- or slow-release source. So any lawn fertilizer will work. Plan the last application no later than August 15. This helps ensure the bermudagrass is not overstimulated, making it susceptible to winter kill. Zoysiagrass grows more slowly than bermudagrass and is prone to develop thatch. &nbsp;Consequently, it does not need as much nitrogen. In fact, too much is worse than too little. One and one-half to 2 pounds N per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season is sufficient. Split the total in two and apply once in early June and again around mid-July. Slow-release nitrogen is preferable but quick-release is acceptable. Slow-release nitrogen is sometimes listed as “slowly available” or “water insoluble.”​Buffalograss requires the least nitrogen of all lawn species commonly grown in Kansas. It will survive and persist with no supplemental nitrogen but giving it one lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. will improve color and density. This application should be made in early June. For a little darker color, fertilize it as described for zoysiagrass in the previous paragraph, but do not apply more than a total of 2 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. in one season. &nbsp;As with zoysia, slow-release nitrogen is preferable, but fast-release is also OK. As for all turfgrasses, phosphorus and potassium are best applied according to soil test results because many soils already have adequate amounts of these nutrients for turfgrass growth. If you need to apply phosphorus or potassium, it is best to core aerate beforehand to ensure the nutrients reach the roots. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Time to fertilize warm-season grasses

We have a great event called Super 4-H Saturday scheduled for Saturday, June 5. 

Due to COVID restrictions, we're asking participants to pre-register by Friday, May 28 for the contests and times that they will participate.

Here's the link:&nbsp;<a href="https://signup.com/go/pAPkrVQ" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://signup.com/go/pAPkrVQ</a>.

Come join the fun and test your knowledge in six areas - crops, entomology, horticulture, lifeskills, livestock and photography.

You can find the rules for the various contests at&nbsp;<a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/4-hevents/nw4hevents/NW4HJudging2021FINALa.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/…/…/NW4HJudging2021FINALa.pdf</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/5/1622044825238.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>We have a great event called Super 4-H Saturday scheduled for Saturday, June 5. Due to COVID restrictions, we're asking participants to pre-register by Friday, May 28 for the contests and times that they will participate. Here's the link:&nbsp;<a href="https://signup.com/go/pAPkrVQ" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://signup.com/go/pAPkrVQ</a>.Come join the fun and test your knowledge in six areas - crops, entomology, horticulture, lifeskills, livestock and photography.You can find the rules for the various contests at&nbsp;<a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/4-hevents/nw4hevents/NW4HJudging2021FINALa.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/…/…/NW4HJudging2021FINALa.pdf</a>

Sign up for 4-H Super Saturday by Friday

This garden is located at the Kansas State Agricultural Research Center – Hays, formerly called the Experiment Station. It is located just south of Hays Frontier Park, south of the US Highway 183 Alternate (bypass). If you head south on Main, continue south across the Alternate, then take the first drive on your left (east off of 240 th Ave).

The drive curves. When the road takes a right turn, you are at a place to park to view not just the Trial Garden but the Backyard Demonstration Garden as well.

This vegetable garden serves as a trial garden for vegetable varieties being tested by K-State horticulture specialists to help update the list of KSRE recommended vegetable varieties. The Hays garden has typically tested tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers. Other plants such as zucchini and yellow squash are also sometimes grown.

The vegetables are planted, maintained and harvested by the Ellis County Master Gardeners. The actual number of new varieties tested varies year by year. Trial cultivars are planted side by side and include cultivars of the same species that are accepted standards currently in the trade.

Evaluations of each plant are done throughout the growing season. Quantitative and qualitative data is carefully collected for each variety, recorded and then reported to K-State at the end of the season. After harvesting and documenting the performance information, the fruit can be used by the Master Gardener who is doing the data collection. When quantities allow, produce is often shared with all Master Gardeners and/or provided to local food banks.

Master Gardeners of Ellis County, Cottonwood District. More information available at&nbsp; www.cottonwood.ksu.edu or call 785-628-9430

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/3/1614966296214.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>This garden is located at the Kansas State Agricultural Research Center – Hays, formerly called the Experiment Station. It is located just south of Hays Frontier Park, south of the US Highway 183 Alternate (bypass). If you head south on Main, continue south across the Alternate, then take the first drive on your left (east off of 240 th Ave).The drive curves. When the road takes a right turn, you are at a place to park to view not just the Trial Garden but the Backyard Demonstration Garden as well.This vegetable garden serves as a trial garden for vegetable varieties being tested by K-State horticulture specialists to help update the list of KSRE recommended vegetable varieties. The Hays garden has typically tested tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers. Other plants such as zucchini and yellow squash are also sometimes grown.The vegetables are planted, maintained and harvested by the Ellis County Master Gardeners. The actual number of new varieties tested varies year by year. Trial cultivars are planted side by side and include cultivars of the same species that are accepted standards currently in the trade.Evaluations of each plant are done throughout the growing season. Quantitative and qualitative data is carefully collected for each variety, recorded and then reported to K-State at the end of the season. After harvesting and documenting the performance information, the fruit can be used by the Master Gardener who is doing the data collection. When quantities allow, produce is often shared with all Master Gardeners and/or provided to local food banks.Master Gardeners of Ellis County, Cottonwood District. More information available at&nbsp; www.cottonwood.ksu.edu or call 785-628-9430

From the Ellis County Master Gardeners: Vegetable trial garden

We are approaching the time of year when many people take a vacation. In the rush to get everything done before leaving, don't forget your houseplants will probably need watering while you are gone. The best alternative is to have someone water them for you. However, if this is not possible, there are alternatives. 1. Well-watered plants can be placed inside a plastic bag. Prop up the bag by using wooden dowels or something similar to keep the plastic off the leaves. Make sure the enclosed plants will not receive full sun as heat buildup may cook them. Bright, indirect light is best. Plants should keep for about a week with this method. 2. This method requires an old dish drying rack, a bathtub in a bathroom with some natural light, and some shoelaces. Place the drying rack upside down in the tub and add several inches of water. Push one end of a shoelace through a drainage hole on the bottom of a pot and into the potting soil of your houseplant. The other end of the shoelace dangles into the water. You have made a wick system that will replace the water in the pot as the plant uses it. Plants can last a couple of weeks if you have enough natural light.​

3. Numerous commercial products that can be used to automatically water houseplants in your absence. The advantage of these products is that the houseplant does not normally need to be moved. All require a reservoir from which water is either siphoned or pumped to individual houseplants. Houseplants should last as long as the water holds out. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>We are approaching the time of year when many people take a vacation. In the rush to get everything done before leaving, don't forget your houseplants will probably need watering while you are gone. The best alternative is to have someone water them for you. However, if this is not possible, there are alternatives. 1. Well-watered plants can be placed inside a plastic bag. Prop up the bag by using wooden dowels or something similar to keep the plastic off the leaves. Make sure the enclosed plants will not receive full sun as heat buildup may cook them. Bright, indirect light is best. Plants should keep for about a week with this method. 2. This method requires an old dish drying rack, a bathtub in a bathroom with some natural light, and some shoelaces. Place the drying rack upside down in the tub and add several inches of water. Push one end of a shoelace through a drainage hole on the bottom of a pot and into the potting soil of your houseplant. The other end of the shoelace dangles into the water. You have made a wick system that will replace the water in the pot as the plant uses it. Plants can last a couple of weeks if you have enough natural light.​3. Numerous commercial products that can be used to automatically water houseplants in your absence. The advantage of these products is that the houseplant does not normally need to be moved. All require a reservoir from which water is either siphoned or pumped to individual houseplants. Houseplants should last as long as the water holds out. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Watering houseplants while on vacation 

We are entering storm season and various areas of the state will likely have high winds, excessive rainfall and hail. This column deals with what can be done to help our gardens recover.

Heavy rain: The force of rainfall pounding on the soil can result in a thick crust that prevents seed emergence and partially blocks oxygen from reaching roots. A light scraping after the soil surface has dried is all that is needed to correct these problems. Be careful of deep tilling as it may damage young, tender roots.

Standing water: Standing water cuts off oxygen to the roots, which can result in plant damage if it doesn’t drain quickly enough. Most plants can withstand 24 hours of standing water without harm. Hot, sunny weather can make a bad situation worse by the water becoming hot enough to “cook” the plants. There isn’t much that can be done about this unless a channel can be cut to allow the water to drain.

Hail damage: Plants should recover quickly as long as the leaves only were damaged by the hail as leaves regenerate quickly. The situation becomes much more serious if the stems and fruit were damaged. The plant can recover from a few bruises but if it looks like the plants were mowed down by a weed whip, replanting is in order.&nbsp;

Leaning plants: Either wind or water can cause plants to lean. They should start to straighten after a few days. Don’t try to bend them back as they often break easily. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>We are entering storm season and various areas of the state will likely have high winds, excessive rainfall and hail. This column deals with what can be done to help our gardens recover.Heavy rain: The force of rainfall pounding on the soil can result in a thick crust that prevents seed emergence and partially blocks oxygen from reaching roots. A light scraping after the soil surface has dried is all that is needed to correct these problems. Be careful of deep tilling as it may damage young, tender roots.Standing water: Standing water cuts off oxygen to the roots, which can result in plant damage if it doesn’t drain quickly enough. Most plants can withstand 24 hours of standing water without harm. Hot, sunny weather can make a bad situation worse by the water becoming hot enough to “cook” the plants. There isn’t much that can be done about this unless a channel can be cut to allow the water to drain.Hail damage: Plants should recover quickly as long as the leaves only were damaged by the hail as leaves regenerate quickly. The situation becomes much more serious if the stems and fruit were damaged. The plant can recover from a few bruises but if it looks like the plants were mowed down by a weed whip, replanting is in order.&nbsp;Leaning plants: Either wind or water can cause plants to lean. They should start to straighten after a few days. Don’t try to bend them back as they often break easily. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

FICK: Storm damage and the garden

There have been a number of plants that have either died over winter or been slow to leaf out. &nbsp;In some cases, this is likely due to accumulated stress. &nbsp;We often think of plants reacting to stress that happened during the current season or possibly the previous year but it may not be that simple. &nbsp;I think this all started during the winter of 2017 - 2018. &nbsp;Many areas of Kansas had virtually no rain or snow from November through most of April during that winter. &nbsp;This put plants under a tremendous amount of stress. &nbsp; Plants under stress often react by setting an abnormal number of fruit buds. &nbsp;This helps ensure the survival of the species even if the parent plant dies. &nbsp;So lots of fruit buds were set during 2018. &nbsp;Those buds matured into flowers and then fruit (seeds) during 2019. &nbsp;Think back to last year. &nbsp;I have never seen certain plants bloom as well as they did last year. &nbsp;Maturing this much fruit takes a great deal of energy. &nbsp;I think this resulted in such low energy levels in the fall that the plants just didn’t have enough energy to make it through the winter or may have delayed leaf out. &nbsp;Areas with too much rain last summer had that additional stress added to the mix. &nbsp;Roots need oxygen as well as water and too much rain can damage root systems. So what do we do? &nbsp;The only thing we can do now is try to avoid any further stress. &nbsp;Basically, that means watering during dry weather. &nbsp;Don’t overdo it as too much moisture can damage root systems. &nbsp;The goal is to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged while allowing the top of the soil surface to dry between waterings. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>There have been a number of plants that have either died over winter or been slow to leaf out. &nbsp;In some cases, this is likely due to accumulated stress. &nbsp;We often think of plants reacting to stress that happened during the current season or possibly the previous year but it may not be that simple. &nbsp;I think this all started during the winter of 2017 - 2018. &nbsp;Many areas of Kansas had virtually no rain or snow from November through most of April during that winter. &nbsp;This put plants under a tremendous amount of stress. &nbsp; Plants under stress often react by setting an abnormal number of fruit buds. &nbsp;This helps ensure the survival of the species even if the parent plant dies. &nbsp;So lots of fruit buds were set during 2018. &nbsp;Those buds matured into flowers and then fruit (seeds) during 2019. &nbsp;Think back to last year. &nbsp;I have never seen certain plants bloom as well as they did last year. &nbsp;Maturing this much fruit takes a great deal of energy. &nbsp;I think this resulted in such low energy levels in the fall that the plants just didn’t have enough energy to make it through the winter or may have delayed leaf out. &nbsp;Areas with too much rain last summer had that additional stress added to the mix. &nbsp;Roots need oxygen as well as water and too much rain can damage root systems. So what do we do? &nbsp;The only thing we can do now is try to avoid any further stress. &nbsp;Basically, that means watering during dry weather. &nbsp;Don’t overdo it as too much moisture can damage root systems. &nbsp;The goal is to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged while allowing the top of the soil surface to dry between waterings. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: Plants slow to leaf out in spring 2021

Field bindweed is difficult to control, especially for homeowners, but there are options.

Home Vegetable Gardens: Weed control requires taking the treated portion of the garden out of production for a time.

Glyphosate - Glyphosate is sold under a wide variety of names, the most common being Roundup. Take the garden out of production when treating.

1. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that will kill whatever it hits but is inactivated when it contacts the soil.

2. Glyphosate is most effective when applied to bindweed that is at or beyond full bloom. You can treat earlier but don't skip the late summer to fall application.

3. Do not apply to bindweed that is under moisture stress or not growing well.

Turf: Selective herbicides are available. An herbicide with the trade name of Drive (quinclorac) is now packaged in homeowner combination herbicides such as Fertilome Weed-Out with Q, Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control, Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus, and Bayer All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer.

Commercial applicators can also use Drive (quinclorac) as well as Q4 (contains quinclorac). Products with Drive work better than glyphosate and are selective. Note that lawns treated with Drive should not use clippings in compost or as a mulch since Drive is very stable on grass clippings.  We recommend clippings be returned to the lawn anyway but if they are bagged, they should be discarded. Do not apply products with Drive over exposed roots of trees and ornamentals. It would be best to avoid spraying beneath the canopy of any trees to avoid possible damage. If there are plans to convert a section of lawn to a vegetable garden, do not use Drive on that area. Eggplants can be damaged if planted within 12 months of areas treated with Drive, and tomatoes can be damaged if planted within 24 months.  Shrub Beds: Use a spray of glyphosate between plants. Use a shield if spraying near plants to keep spray from contacting green plant material. Remember, glyphosate will hurt your shrubs if it contacts green tissue.

It is possible to control field bindweed by pulling, but you must be extremely persistent. I remember reading a study from the 1940s that found that bindweed produces enough energy to start strengthening the roots when it reached the six-leaf stage. So, if pulling, never allow plants to produce more than six leaves.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Field bindweed is difficult to control, especially for homeowners, but there are options.Home Vegetable Gardens: Weed control requires taking the treated portion of the garden out of production for a time.Glyphosate - Glyphosate is sold under a wide variety of names, the most common being Roundup. Take the garden out of production when treating.1. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that will kill whatever it hits but is inactivated when it contacts the soil.2. Glyphosate is most effective when applied to bindweed that is at or beyond full bloom. You can treat earlier but don't skip the late summer to fall application.3. Do not apply to bindweed that is under moisture stress or not growing well.Turf: Selective herbicides are available. An herbicide with the trade name of Drive (quinclorac) is now packaged in homeowner combination herbicides such as Fertilome Weed-Out with Q, Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control, Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus, and Bayer All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer.Commercial applicators can also use Drive (quinclorac) as well as Q4 (contains quinclorac). Products with Drive work better than glyphosate and are selective. Note that lawns treated with Drive should not use clippings in compost or as a mulch since Drive is very stable on grass clippings. We recommend clippings be returned to the lawn anyway but if they are bagged, they should be discarded. Do not apply products with Drive over exposed roots of trees and ornamentals. It would be best to avoid spraying beneath the canopy of any trees to avoid possible damage. If there are plans to convert a section of lawn to a vegetable garden, do not use Drive on that area. Eggplants can be damaged if planted within 12 months of areas treated with Drive, and tomatoes can be damaged if planted within 24 months. Shrub Beds: Use a spray of glyphosate between plants. Use a shield if spraying near plants to keep spray from contacting green plant material. Remember, glyphosate will hurt your shrubs if it contacts green tissue.It is possible to control field bindweed by pulling, but you must be extremely persistent. I remember reading a study from the 1940s that found that bindweed produces enough energy to start strengthening the roots when it reached the six-leaf stage. So, if pulling, never allow plants to produce more than six leaves.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: ​Field bindweed control

The garden, located at the K-State Agricultural Research Center south of Hays, was established in 2016 with funds provided by a grant from the Heartland Community Foundation.&nbsp;

The garden area measures approximately 12’ x 20’.&nbsp; The soil was tested, prepared and a fall garden was planted in 2016, with its official debut during Horticulture Night at the Ag Research Center, September 20, 2016.

Work resumed during the spring of 2017 when a fence was built and compost bins were constructed out of pallets on the east end of the garden plot. Spring crops of onions, potatoes and beans were planted, as well as perennial crops of rhubarb and asparagus. Other vegetables that have been grown are radishes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, cabbage, carrots and eggplant.

The purpose and goal of the Backyard Garden Project is to demonstrate to the general public how to start and maintain a vegetable garden in a smaller space like a backyard area. A composting station is also maintained as part of this project. This garden provides an opportunity for Master Gardeners to show the various crops that can be grown in a small area. It also gives Master Gardeners opportunities to experiment with best practices in fertilization, watering, weeding, mulching and producing and using compost in a garden to optimize crop production.

The Backyard Garden committee decides yearly which crops to plant and determines the layout of the garden plot. It decides on any new ideas or methods to try for the new season. Several Master Gardener volunteers help with the planning, planting and maintenance throughout the year. This garden project would not be possible or successful without the hard work and dedication of this group.

The public is welcome and encouraged to stop by and visit the garden’s progress during the growing season at the Ag Research Center.&nbsp;There is signage on the east end of the garden plot concerning composting and a Kansas Garden Guide booklet in the attached mailbox for reference. Gardening questions can be addressed by the Master Gardeners or the Extension Horticulturist by calling the Cottonwood District Extension Office in Hays at 785-628-9430..

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/3/1614966296214.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>The garden, located at the K-State Agricultural Research Center south of Hays, was established in 2016 with funds provided by a grant from the Heartland Community Foundation.&nbsp; The garden area measures approximately 12’ x 20’.&nbsp; The soil was tested, prepared and a fall garden was planted in 2016, with its official debut during Horticulture Night at the Ag Research Center, September 20, 2016. Work resumed during the spring of 2017 when a fence was built and compost bins were constructed out of pallets on the east end of the garden plot. Spring crops of onions, potatoes and beans were planted, as well as perennial crops of rhubarb and asparagus. Other vegetables that have been grown are radishes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, cabbage, carrots and eggplant. The purpose and goal of the Backyard Garden Project is to demonstrate to the general public how to start and maintain a vegetable garden in a smaller space like a backyard area. A composting station is also maintained as part of this project. This garden provides an opportunity for Master Gardeners to show the various crops that can be grown in a small area. It also gives Master Gardeners opportunities to experiment with best practices in fertilization, watering, weeding, mulching and producing and using compost in a garden to optimize crop production. The Backyard Garden committee decides yearly which crops to plant and determines the layout of the garden plot. It decides on any new ideas or methods to try for the new season. Several Master Gardener volunteers help with the planning, planting and maintenance throughout the year. This garden project would not be possible or successful without the hard work and dedication of this group. The public is welcome and encouraged to stop by and visit the garden’s progress during the growing season at the Ag Research Center.&nbsp;There is signage on the east end of the garden plot concerning composting and a Kansas Garden Guide booklet in the attached mailbox for reference. Gardening questions can be addressed by the Master Gardeners or the Extension Horticulturist by calling the Cottonwood District Extension Office in Hays at 785-628-9430..

From the Ellis Co. Master Gardeners: Backyard family demonstration garden

Considering the fact that moles spend most of their time underground, they sure cause quite a mess above the ground.&nbsp;

Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said the surest signs that homeowners have of moles in their yard are the meandering paths or tunnels of upheaved soil, caused by the small mammals foraging for food.&nbsp;

“Some tunnels may be abandoned soon after being built, while others are travel lanes and are used for a longer period of time,” Upham said. “If the soil is dry, moles form mounds of soil (as they search for food), but do not make the meandering paths,” &nbsp;

The result is a traffic-way of lines in the home lawn and other parts of the yard that soon cause soft sections that crumble under foot. That can cause a problem for lawns, in particular, because even though moles don’t feed on plant matter, their movements disrupt roots and uproot small plants.&nbsp;

“The best control method for moles is the use of traps,” Upham said, noting there are three types of traps (harpoon, choker and scissor-jawed) but each takes some time to master.&nbsp;

“Moles use some tunnels more than others,” Upham said. “Use a broomstick or something similar to poke holes in a number of runs. Check a day later to see which runs have been repaired. These are the active runs that should be used to place traps.”&nbsp;

In an active run, Upham suggests excavating the soil, placing the trap and then replacing loose soil. “Secure the trap so that the recoil will not lift the trap out of the ground,” he said. “Make sure the triggering mechanism is in the center of the run.”&nbsp;

To help ensure success, push down two holes on each side of the trap. “Moles should be caught when they try to repair the tunnel,” Upham said. “Move the traps if moles are not caught within three days.”&nbsp;

Aside from traps, Upham said numerous home remedies to control moles have been tried, including chewing gum, noise makers, broken glass, bleaches, windmills and human hair. “None have been found to provide consistent and reliable control,” he said.&nbsp;

“Poison baits also fail to work because moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not vegetable matter,” Upham said. “Even grub control products are ineffective because they do not control earthworms, which are the primary food source for moles.”&nbsp;

More information including examples of how to track an active mole tunnel and set a trap are shown in videos available online from the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/species/moles/index.html">K-State Research and Extension wildlife management program</a>.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Considering the fact that moles spend most of their time underground, they sure cause quite a mess above the ground.&nbsp;Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said the surest signs that homeowners have of moles in their yard are the meandering paths or tunnels of upheaved soil, caused by the small mammals foraging for food.&nbsp;“Some tunnels may be abandoned soon after being built, while others are travel lanes and are used for a longer period of time,” Upham said. “If the soil is dry, moles form mounds of soil (as they search for food), but do not make the meandering paths,” &nbsp;The result is a traffic-way of lines in the home lawn and other parts of the yard that soon cause soft sections that crumble under foot. That can cause a problem for lawns, in particular, because even though moles don’t feed on plant matter, their movements disrupt roots and uproot small plants.&nbsp;“The best control method for moles is the use of traps,” Upham said, noting there are three types of traps (harpoon, choker and scissor-jawed) but each takes some time to master.&nbsp;“Moles use some tunnels more than others,” Upham said. “Use a broomstick or something similar to poke holes in a number of runs. Check a day later to see which runs have been repaired. These are the active runs that should be used to place traps.”&nbsp;In an active run, Upham suggests excavating the soil, placing the trap and then replacing loose soil. “Secure the trap so that the recoil will not lift the trap out of the ground,” he said. “Make sure the triggering mechanism is in the center of the run.”&nbsp;To help ensure success, push down two holes on each side of the trap. “Moles should be caught when they try to repair the tunnel,” Upham said. “Move the traps if moles are not caught within three days.”&nbsp;Aside from traps, Upham said numerous home remedies to control moles have been tried, including chewing gum, noise makers, broken glass, bleaches, windmills and human hair. “None have been found to provide consistent and reliable control,” he said.&nbsp;“Poison baits also fail to work because moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not vegetable matter,” Upham said. “Even grub control products are ineffective because they do not control earthworms, which are the primary food source for moles.”&nbsp;More information including examples of how to track an active mole tunnel and set a trap are shown in videos available online from the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/species/moles/index.html">K-State Research and Extension wildlife management program</a>.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Mole control

May is an excellent time to fertilize cool-season lawns such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass if they will be irrigated throughout the summer. Non-irrigated lawns often go through a period of summer dormancy because of drought and do not need this fertilization. May is a good time to fertilize because the springtime flush of growth characteristic of these grasses has tapered off, so the fertilizer you apply will be less likely to cause excessive shoot growth than if you fertilized at a full rate in April. Slow-release nitrogen sources are ideal. These nitrogen sources promote controlled growth, which is desirable as the stressful summer weather approaches. Relatively few fertilizers are available to the homeowner supply ALL the nitrogen in the slowly available form. But one such product that is widely available is Milorganite. Other such products available in the retail market include cottonseed meal, alfalfa-based fertilizers, and any other products derived from plants or animals. (Bloodmeal is an exception, and contrary to popular belief, the nitrogen it supplies is quickly available.) These products are all examples of natural organic fertilizers. They typically contain less than 10 percent nitrogen by weight, so compared to most synthetic fertilizers, more product must be applied to get the same amount of nitrogen. Translation: they are more expensive! Apply enough to give the lawn one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For example, if the fertilizer is 6 percent nitrogen by weight, you will need to apply almost 17 pounds of fertilizer product per 1,000 square feet. Summer lawn fertilizers that contain at least a portion of the nitrogen as slow release are fine to use as well. Be sure to follow label directions. If cost is prohibitive, you can use the less expensive quick-release (i.e., soluble) sources, but split the application into two doses as follows: apply enough to give the lawn 0.5 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in May and again in early June. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>May is an excellent time to fertilize cool-season lawns such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass if they will be irrigated throughout the summer. Non-irrigated lawns often go through a period of summer dormancy because of drought and do not need this fertilization. May is a good time to fertilize because the springtime flush of growth characteristic of these grasses has tapered off, so the fertilizer you apply will be less likely to cause excessive shoot growth than if you fertilized at a full rate in April. Slow-release nitrogen sources are ideal. These nitrogen sources promote controlled growth, which is desirable as the stressful summer weather approaches. Relatively few fertilizers are available to the homeowner supply ALL the nitrogen in the slowly available form. But one such product that is widely available is Milorganite. Other such products available in the retail market include cottonseed meal, alfalfa-based fertilizers, and any other products derived from plants or animals. (Bloodmeal is an exception, and contrary to popular belief, the nitrogen it supplies is quickly available.) These products are all examples of natural organic fertilizers. They typically contain less than 10 percent nitrogen by weight, so compared to most synthetic fertilizers, more product must be applied to get the same amount of nitrogen. Translation: they are more expensive! Apply enough to give the lawn one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For example, if the fertilizer is 6 percent nitrogen by weight, you will need to apply almost 17 pounds of fertilizer product per 1,000 square feet. Summer lawn fertilizers that contain at least a portion of the nitrogen as slow release are fine to use as well. Be sure to follow label directions. If cost is prohibitive, you can use the less expensive quick-release (i.e., soluble) sources, but split the application into two doses as follows: apply enough to give the lawn 0.5 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in May and again in early June. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: May is the time to fertilize irrigated cool-season lawns

Learning to identify poison ivy is vital if you wish to avoid the rash that accompanies exposure. &nbsp;Unfortunately, poison ivy can make identification difficult because it occurs in three forms: an erect woody shrub, a groundcover that creeps along the ground, and a woody vine that will climb trees.

When poison ivy climbs, it forms numerous aerial roots that give the vine the appearance of a fuzzy rope. The leaves of poison ivy also vary. Though the compound leaf always has three leaflets, the leaf margins may be toothed, incised, lobed, or smooth. The size of the leaves also can vary, although usually, the middle leaflet is larger than the other two. Also, the middle leaflet is the only one with a long stalk; the other two are closely attached to the petiole (leaf stem). The number of leaves gives rise to the saying: "Leaves of three, let it be!" Poison ivy is often confused with Virginia creeper or Woodbine. Each of these vines, however, has five leaflets rather than three. There are three methods commonly used to eradicate poison ivy. These include pulling or grubbing out the plants by hand, cutting off the vine, and then treating the cut stump or the regrowth, and spraying the plants directly. The method used depends somewhat on the plant's growth form. If the plant is growing as a groundcover, direct spray or grubbing the plant out is often used. If grubbing, wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt. The soil must be moist for grubbing to work well. Wash the clothes and yourself immediately after you finish. It might also be a good idea to rinse the washing machine. If the plant is in the shrub form, the direct spray is the most common control method. If the plant is a woody vine that has climbed a tree, the preferred method is to cut the plant off at the base and treat the sprouts after they emerge. Some triclopyr herbicides also have instructions on treating a freshly cut stump directly. Triclopyr (Brush-B-Gon Poison Ivy Killer, Brush Killer Stump Killer) is most often used for poison ivy control. Other Herbicides that can be used include glyphosate (Roundup, Killzall Weed and Grass Killer, Nutgrass, Poison Ivy, and VineKiller) or dicamba. Poison ivy is tough. Repeat applications may be necessary. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Learning to identify poison ivy is vital if you wish to avoid the rash that accompanies exposure. &nbsp;Unfortunately, poison ivy can make identification difficult because it occurs in three forms: an erect woody shrub, a groundcover that creeps along the ground, and a woody vine that will climb trees.When poison ivy climbs, it forms numerous aerial roots that give the vine the appearance of a fuzzy rope. The leaves of poison ivy also vary. Though the compound leaf always has three leaflets, the leaf margins may be toothed, incised, lobed, or smooth. The size of the leaves also can vary, although usually, the middle leaflet is larger than the other two. Also, the middle leaflet is the only one with a long stalk; the other two are closely attached to the petiole (leaf stem). The number of leaves gives rise to the saying: "Leaves of three, let it be!" Poison ivy is often confused with Virginia creeper or Woodbine. Each of these vines, however, has five leaflets rather than three. There are three methods commonly used to eradicate poison ivy. These include pulling or grubbing out the plants by hand, cutting off the vine, and then treating the cut stump or the regrowth, and spraying the plants directly. The method used depends somewhat on the plant's growth form. If the plant is growing as a groundcover, direct spray or grubbing the plant out is often used. If grubbing, wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt. The soil must be moist for grubbing to work well. Wash the clothes and yourself immediately after you finish. It might also be a good idea to rinse the washing machine. If the plant is in the shrub form, the direct spray is the most common control method. If the plant is a woody vine that has climbed a tree, the preferred method is to cut the plant off at the base and treat the sprouts after they emerge. Some triclopyr herbicides also have instructions on treating a freshly cut stump directly. Triclopyr (Brush-B-Gon Poison Ivy Killer, Brush Killer Stump Killer) is most often used for poison ivy control. Other Herbicides that can be used include glyphosate (Roundup, Killzall Weed and Grass Killer, Nutgrass, Poison Ivy, and VineKiller) or dicamba. Poison ivy is tough. Repeat applications may be necessary. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: Poison ivy identification and control

There are four Cottonwood Extension District Positions that will be on the November ballot. While the election is still over 6 months away, the deadline to file for a position is just around the corner.&nbsp; When the Cottonwood District formed in 2017 our eight-member board was appointed by the County Commissioners in both Barton and Ellis County. So that all positions would not come open at the same time, four members served two-year terms while the other four board members were appointed to serve four-year terms. From now on, all terms are four years in length.

Each of our eight board members have a commitment to create a budget that is reasonable for you, the taxpayer, while still supporting the delivery of valuable Extension education materials for lifelong learners in our district. Extension board member qualifications include:

A more detailed board member position description can be viewed on the KSRE web site.&nbsp;

<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/boardleadership/board-leadership-modules/recruiting-board-and-pdc-members/Extension%2520Board%2520Member%2520Position%2520Description.pdf">https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/boardleadership/board-leadership-modules/recruiting-board-and-pdc-members/Extension%20Board%20Member%20Position%20Description.pdf</a>&nbsp;

My hope is that you have utilized our services in one or many ways. Perhaps Lauren Fick, our district horticulture agent, has provided the answer to a lawn, garden or tree question. Our agriculture and natural resources agents, Stacy Campbell and Alicia Boor, are always ready to field questions about weed control, and research-based information related to crops or livestock. Our programming related to healthy families is covered by Berny Unruh and myself. We have programming in place to help people of all ages improve their lives. And 4-H and other youth in our communities are participating in learning opportunities under the direction of Susan Schlichting and Michelle Beran. Theresa Meis and Brenda Walton provide the office professional duties that keep us connected to you.&nbsp;

If you would like to get involved by running for a position on the Cottonwood Extension District Board, you will need to fill out the paperwork and pay a $20 filing fee at the County Clerks’ office where you reside. The filing deadline is Thursday, June 1st, at noon. The two candidates who receive the most votes will begin their term as soon as the November election results are certified.&nbsp;

Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions related to serving on our Extension Board!

Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District – Great Bend office. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141404420.png" alt="Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>There are four Cottonwood Extension District Positions that will be on the November ballot. While the election is still over 6 months away, the deadline to file for a position is just around the corner.&nbsp; When the Cottonwood District formed in 2017 our eight-member board was appointed by the County Commissioners in both Barton and Ellis County. So that all positions would not come open at the same time, four members served two-year terms while the other four board members were appointed to serve four-year terms. From now on, all terms are four years in length.Each of our eight board members have a commitment to create a budget that is reasonable for you, the taxpayer, while still supporting the delivery of valuable Extension education materials for lifelong learners in our district. Extension board member qualifications include:<ul>
 <li>At least 18 years of age and a resident of the local unit</li><li>Interested in working within the mission of K-State Research and Extension.</li><li>Willing to work closely with the local unit director, regional director and other members of the board.</li><li>Sincere interest in improving the quality of life for local unit residents.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>A more detailed board member position description can be viewed on the KSRE web site.&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/boardleadership/board-leadership-modules/recruiting-board-and-pdc-members/Extension%2520Board%2520Member%2520Position%2520Description.pdf">https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/boardleadership/board-leadership-modules/recruiting-board-and-pdc-members/Extension%20Board%20Member%20Position%20Description.pdf</a>&nbsp;My hope is that you have utilized our services in one or many ways. Perhaps Lauren Fick, our district horticulture agent, has provided the answer to a lawn, garden or tree question. Our agriculture and natural resources agents, Stacy Campbell and Alicia Boor, are always ready to field questions about weed control, and research-based information related to crops or livestock. Our programming related to healthy families is covered by Berny Unruh and myself. We have programming in place to help people of all ages improve their lives. And 4-H and other youth in our communities are participating in learning opportunities under the direction of Susan Schlichting and Michelle Beran. Theresa Meis and Brenda Walton provide the office professional duties that keep us connected to you.&nbsp;If you would like to get involved by running for a position on the Cottonwood Extension District Board, you will need to fill out the paperwork and pay a $20 filing fee at the County Clerks’ office where you reside. The filing deadline is Thursday, June 1st, at noon. The two candidates who receive the most votes will begin their term as soon as the November election results are certified.&nbsp;Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions related to serving on our Extension Board!Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District – Great Bend office. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;

KRUG: Consider serving on Cottonwood Extension board

A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungus disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop. The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (&gt;85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F), and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water. &nbsp;Cultural practices are the first line of defense. 1. Don't plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. Purdue University has a list of blackspot-resistant varieties. 2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works well with roses. 3. Plant roses in sun in areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet. 4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum. If needed, protect foliage with a regular spray program (10- to 14-day schedule) of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (BioAdvanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs, BioAdvanced All-In-One Rose &amp; Flower Care), myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden Fungicide), and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Lawn &amp; Garden Fungicide, Garden Disease Control, others). Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungus disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop. The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (&gt;85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F), and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water. &nbsp;Cultural practices are the first line of defense. 1. Don't plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. Purdue University has a list of blackspot-resistant varieties. 2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works well with roses. 3. Plant roses in sun in areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet. 4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum. If needed, protect foliage with a regular spray program (10- to 14-day schedule) of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (BioAdvanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs, BioAdvanced All-In-One Rose &amp; Flower Care), myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden Fungicide), and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Lawn &amp; Garden Fungicide, Garden Disease Control, others). Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Blackspot of roses

The Great Bend Farm and Ranch Expo is coming out to the Expo grounds April 7 to 9. The three-day event will have programs, vendors, and a chance to meet up and see what’s new in farming and ranching. Together, with K-State Research and Extension, we will be giving informative programs, and listen to the various specialists discuss what is new in their fields of study. We will also have a virtual option available for those that are interested in attending virtually. You can contact the office for further details!&nbsp;

On Wednesday, April 7th at 1 PM, join KSRE along with the Great Bend Coop at the Wheat Plot tour. The plot is located north of the Expo grounds at Barton County Road and 50 AVE. Romulo Lollato, K-State Research and Extension’s Wheat and Forage Specialist will be present to discuss the 2021 Wheat plot for Barton County that is on location. He will discuss his current issues and future items to be on the lookout for this year in wheat.&nbsp;&nbsp;He will also be available to answer any questions that producers have.&nbsp;

April 8th at 1 pm will be Hemp research update by Jason Griffin, Professor &amp; Director, John C. Pair Horticultural Center, Kansas State University, Dept. Horticulture &amp; Natural Resources. Jason leads the Hemp research that Kansas State University conducted in 2020 that he will report on as well as give an update on what they will be researching in 2021. He will also be available for questions after his presentation.&nbsp;

On Friday, April 9th&nbsp;at 1 pm, Anthony Zukoff will be in Expo 3 discussing&nbsp;Alfalfa&nbsp;weevil insecticide resistance and some notes on cryptic alfalfa pests. Anthony leads the extension entomology program at the Southwest Research and Extension Center in Garden City.&nbsp;&nbsp;He focuses on all things insect-related with an emphasis on current and emerging pest issues facing crop production in Western Kansas.&nbsp;

Whatever your interests are when it comes to farming, there is a subject and specialist that can help you with information. Our specialists are happy to come out and share the latest information and research to help you be able to succeed at your farm. Join us during the lunch hour at the Great Bend Farm and Ranch show April 7 to 9 for all of K-State Research and Extension’s programming.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu">aboor@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or calling 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>The Great Bend Farm and Ranch Expo is coming out to the Expo grounds April 7 to 9. The three-day event will have programs, vendors, and a chance to meet up and see what’s new in farming and ranching. Together, with K-State Research and Extension, we will be giving informative programs, and listen to the various specialists discuss what is new in their fields of study. We will also have a virtual option available for those that are interested in attending virtually. You can contact the office for further details!&nbsp;On Wednesday, April 7th at 1 PM, join KSRE along with the Great Bend Coop at the Wheat Plot tour. The plot is located north of the Expo grounds at Barton County Road and 50 AVE. Romulo Lollato, K-State Research and Extension’s Wheat and Forage Specialist will be present to discuss the 2021 Wheat plot for Barton County that is on location. He will discuss his current issues and future items to be on the lookout for this year in wheat.&nbsp;&nbsp;He will also be available to answer any questions that producers have.&nbsp;April 8th at 1 pm will be Hemp research update by Jason Griffin, Professor &amp; Director, John C. Pair Horticultural Center, Kansas State University, Dept. Horticulture &amp; Natural Resources. Jason leads the Hemp research that Kansas State University conducted in 2020 that he will report on as well as give an update on what they will be researching in 2021. He will also be available for questions after his presentation.&nbsp;On Friday, April 9th&nbsp;at 1 pm, Anthony Zukoff will be in Expo 3 discussing&nbsp;Alfalfa&nbsp;weevil insecticide resistance and some notes on cryptic alfalfa pests. Anthony leads the extension entomology program at the Southwest Research and Extension Center in Garden City.&nbsp;&nbsp;He focuses on all things insect-related with an emphasis on current and emerging pest issues facing crop production in Western Kansas.&nbsp;Whatever your interests are when it comes to farming, there is a subject and specialist that can help you with information. Our specialists are happy to come out and share the latest information and research to help you be able to succeed at your farm. Join us during the lunch hour at the Great Bend Farm and Ranch show April 7 to 9 for all of K-State Research and Extension’s programming.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu">aboor@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or calling 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

BOOR: Great Bend farm and ranch show on the way

We often are asked whether it is good to mow lower in the spring. The answer is yes and no. It doesn’t hurt to mow lower than normal the first mowing or two. 

As a matter of fact, it can actually speed green-up by removing old, dead grass and allowing the soil to warm up more quickly. &nbsp;But the mowing height should be raised to normal after the first or second cutting to discourage crabgrass and encourage deep rooting. Crabgrass seed must have light to germinate, and a high mowing height will help shade the soil. &nbsp;Also, root depth and mowing height are related on upright growing grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass — the higher the height of cut, the deeper the root system. A deeper root system means a more drought-resistant turf. So, how low should you go on the first cutting? On tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, you can mow as low as 1 to 1½ inches. Be careful you don't go so low that you scalp the turf. &nbsp; After that, raise the mowing height for Kentucky bluegrass to 2 to 3 inches but 3 to 3½ inches for tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>We often are asked whether it is good to mow lower in the spring. The answer is yes and no. It doesn’t hurt to mow lower than normal the first mowing or two. As a matter of fact, it can actually speed green-up by removing old, dead grass and allowing the soil to warm up more quickly. &nbsp;But the mowing height should be raised to normal after the first or second cutting to discourage crabgrass and encourage deep rooting. Crabgrass seed must have light to germinate, and a high mowing height will help shade the soil. &nbsp;Also, root depth and mowing height are related on upright growing grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass — the higher the height of cut, the deeper the root system. A deeper root system means a more drought-resistant turf. So, how low should you go on the first cutting? On tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, you can mow as low as 1 to 1½ inches. Be careful you don't go so low that you scalp the turf. &nbsp; After that, raise the mowing height for Kentucky bluegrass to 2 to 3 inches but 3 to 3½ inches for tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: How low should you go?

People often wonder why we recommend seeding cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass in the fall. It would seem that the spring would be the more natural time for seeding because the entire growing season is available for the grass to become established before the turf has to deal with winter. There are a few reasons that tend to make fall seedings more successful.

The soils are warmer in the fall. Warm soils mean less time required for germination and growth, so the grass becomes established more quickly. I have seen tall fescue seeded in the last week of August come up in four days. Now, you had to be on your hands and knees to see it, but it was up. Tall fescue seeded in the spring may take well over a week to come up and the time required to become established is much longer.

Weeds are less of a problem in the fall. The major weed problems in the fall tend to be the broadleaves such as chickweed, henbit, or dandelion. Turf seeded in early September is usually thick enough by the time these broadleaves germinate that often there is not much weed invasion. Even if there is some invasion by broadleaves, the turf should be mature enough by early November that mild broadleaf herbicides can be applied.

In the spring, our major weed problems are the annual grasses such as crabgrass.  Since the spring-seeded turf is slow to mature, there are often thin areas that are easily invaded by these grassy weeds. If this invasion occurs, the weeds are better adapted to our hot, summer conditions than our cool-season grasses and so the weeds tend to take over. The number of chemicals that can be used on young turf is limited, and so these grasses become more of a problem. One of the preemergence herbicides that can be used on young grasses is dithiopyr (Dimension).  It is found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed &amp; Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer and can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination.  

Summer is the hardest time of the year for cool-season grasses, not the winter. Summertime is very difficult because our cool-season grasses do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that our warm-season grasses such as buffalo, zoysia, and Bermuda have. Therefore, they tend to become weakened in the summer which makes them more susceptible to disease and other stresses. Spring-seeded cool-season grasses are less mature and therefore less able to tolerate these stresses.

Seeding cool-season grass in the spring can be successful but is more difficult to pull off than fall seedings. If you have a choice, always opt for seeding cool-season grasses in the fall.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>People often wonder why we recommend seeding cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass in the fall. It would seem that the spring would be the more natural time for seeding because the entire growing season is available for the grass to become established before the turf has to deal with winter. There are a few reasons that tend to make fall seedings more successful.The soils are warmer in the fall. Warm soils mean less time required for germination and growth, so the grass becomes established more quickly. I have seen tall fescue seeded in the last week of August come up in four days. Now, you had to be on your hands and knees to see it, but it was up. Tall fescue seeded in the spring may take well over a week to come up and the time required to become established is much longer.Weeds are less of a problem in the fall. The major weed problems in the fall tend to be the broadleaves such as chickweed, henbit, or dandelion. Turf seeded in early September is usually thick enough by the time these broadleaves germinate that often there is not much weed invasion. Even if there is some invasion by broadleaves, the turf should be mature enough by early November that mild broadleaf herbicides can be applied.In the spring, our major weed problems are the annual grasses such as crabgrass. Since the spring-seeded turf is slow to mature, there are often thin areas that are easily invaded by these grassy weeds. If this invasion occurs, the weeds are better adapted to our hot, summer conditions than our cool-season grasses and so the weeds tend to take over. The number of chemicals that can be used on young turf is limited, and so these grasses become more of a problem. One of the preemergence herbicides that can be used on young grasses is dithiopyr (Dimension). It is found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed &amp; Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer and can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Summer is the hardest time of the year for cool-season grasses, not the winter. Summertime is very difficult because our cool-season grasses do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that our warm-season grasses such as buffalo, zoysia, and Bermuda have. Therefore, they tend to become weakened in the summer which makes them more susceptible to disease and other stresses. Spring-seeded cool-season grasses are less mature and therefore less able to tolerate these stresses.Seeding cool-season grass in the spring can be successful but is more difficult to pull off than fall seedings. If you have a choice, always opt for seeding cool-season grasses in the fall.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Why seeding cool-season grasses in spring is difficult

Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) are two closely related plants that can become weed problems in home lawns and landscapes. Though wild garlic and wild onion look much alike, each has an odor that is characterized by its name – wild garlic smells like garlic and wild onion smells like onion. These plants are perennials that can also reproduce by seeds and aerial bulbils. Bulbils form at the top of the stem and are oval and smooth. 

Wild garlic also reproduces by underground bulb offsets, but wild onion does not. Both species produce a clump of plants that is unsightly in a lawn. Control recommendations are the same though we now have a couple of new additions to our arsenal.​Traditionally we have used 2,4-D or 2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba (i.e., Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gon). These products should be sprayed during March on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Newer products are Weed Free Zone and Speed Zone. Both are combination products that contain a formulation of Trimec plus carfentrazone. These will give a quicker response at cooler temperatures than 50 degrees. A spreader-sticker added to the spray should help any of these products be more effective. At times, the spreader-sticker is already mixed into the weed killer; no additional amount is needed. These herbicides are also effective on dandelions. Unfortunately, we have not had a good chemical control for Star-of-Bethlehem. The best products we had were Coolpower (31.3% control) and Turflon Ester (23.8% control). Coolpower is a commercial only product, but Turflon Ester is available to both commercial and homeowner users. But research out of Virginia Tech has improved our outlook. Scientists there did a study in which they gained 96% control of Star-of-Bethlehem one month after treatment by using Quicksilver, a formulation of carfentrazone at the rate of 4 fl. oz/A. Quicksilver is a commercial only product, and therefore is not readily available to homeowners. However, both Speed Zone and Weed Free Zone contain carfentrazone and would certainly be worth a try if you have this troublesome plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by email at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) are two closely related plants that can become weed problems in home lawns and landscapes. Though wild garlic and wild onion look much alike, each has an odor that is characterized by its name – wild garlic smells like garlic and wild onion smells like onion. These plants are perennials that can also reproduce by seeds and aerial bulbils. Bulbils form at the top of the stem and are oval and smooth. Wild garlic also reproduces by underground bulb offsets, but wild onion does not. Both species produce a clump of plants that is unsightly in a lawn. Control recommendations are the same though we now have a couple of new additions to our arsenal.​Traditionally we have used 2,4-D or 2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba (i.e., Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gon). These products should be sprayed during March on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Newer products are Weed Free Zone and Speed Zone. Both are combination products that contain a formulation of Trimec plus carfentrazone. These will give a quicker response at cooler temperatures than 50 degrees. A spreader-sticker added to the spray should help any of these products be more effective. At times, the spreader-sticker is already mixed into the weed killer; no additional amount is needed. These herbicides are also effective on dandelions. Unfortunately, we have not had a good chemical control for Star-of-Bethlehem. The best products we had were Coolpower (31.3% control) and Turflon Ester (23.8% control). Coolpower is a commercial only product, but Turflon Ester is available to both commercial and homeowner users. But research out of Virginia Tech has improved our outlook. Scientists there did a study in which they gained 96% control of Star-of-Bethlehem one month after treatment by using Quicksilver, a formulation of carfentrazone at the rate of 4 fl. oz/A. Quicksilver is a commercial only product, and therefore is not readily available to homeowners. However, both Speed Zone and Weed Free Zone contain carfentrazone and would certainly be worth a try if you have this troublesome plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by email at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Wild onion, wild garlic, and Star-of-Bethlehem

Grassy sandbur is the “sticker” plant that looks like grass. It will often invade thin lawns, especially in dry years. Therefore, the best control for this weed is a thick, healthy lawn.

However, if your lawn is thin this spring and grassy sandbur was a problem last year, use a preemergence herbicide before the sandbur comes up. However, not all preemergence herbicides are effective. The three products that can help minimize grassy sandbur are oryzalin, pendimethalin, and prodiamine. Oryzalin is sold under the trade name Weed Impede. &nbsp; It can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Oryzalin is also sold as a combination product with benefin as Green Light Amaze. &nbsp;As with oryzalin alone, it can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Apply Amaze or an oryzalin product about April 15 when redbud trees approach full bloom. Pendimethalin is sold commercially as Pendulum as well as several other names. On the homeowner side, it is sold as Scotts Halts. Pendimethalin is best applied as a split application with the first half applied about April 15 and the second about June 1. Alternatively, make the first application when redbud trees approach full bloom and the second six weeks later. Prodiamine is sold under the commercial name of Barricade. &nbsp;It is also sold as a homeowner product Howard Johnson Crabgrass Control Plus with 0.37 Prodiamine &nbsp;00-00-07. &nbsp;It can be used on all our common lawn grasses. Apply as is done for oryzalin, about April 15 or when redbud trees approach full bloom. Only one application is needed per year. None of the “weed preventers” will give complete control but each should help. Quinclorac (Drive) can provide some postemergence control especially if the sandbur is in the seedling stage. Quinclorac is also found in several combination products that control both broadleaf weeds and crabgrass such as one of the following. • Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control • BioAdvanced All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer • Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus • Fertilome Weed Out with Crabgrass Killer • Trimec Crabgrass Plus Lawn Weed Killer • Bonide Weed Beater Plus Crabgrass &amp; Broadleaf Weed Killer • Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer Again, the best control for grassy sandbur is a healthy, thick lawn. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Grassy sandbur is the “sticker” plant that looks like grass. It will often invade thin lawns, especially in dry years. Therefore, the best control for this weed is a thick, healthy lawn. However, if your lawn is thin this spring and grassy sandbur was a problem last year, use a preemergence herbicide before the sandbur comes up. However, not all preemergence herbicides are effective. The three products that can help minimize grassy sandbur are oryzalin, pendimethalin, and prodiamine. Oryzalin is sold under the trade name Weed Impede. &nbsp; It can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Oryzalin is also sold as a combination product with benefin as Green Light Amaze. &nbsp;As with oryzalin alone, it can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Apply Amaze or an oryzalin product about April 15 when redbud trees approach full bloom. Pendimethalin is sold commercially as Pendulum as well as several other names. On the homeowner side, it is sold as Scotts Halts. Pendimethalin is best applied as a split application with the first half applied about April 15 and the second about June 1. Alternatively, make the first application when redbud trees approach full bloom and the second six weeks later. Prodiamine is sold under the commercial name of Barricade. &nbsp;It is also sold as a homeowner product Howard Johnson Crabgrass Control Plus with 0.37 Prodiamine &nbsp;00-00-07. &nbsp;It can be used on all our common lawn grasses. Apply as is done for oryzalin, about April 15 or when redbud trees approach full bloom. Only one application is needed per year. None of the “weed preventers” will give complete control but each should help. Quinclorac (Drive) can provide some postemergence control especially if the sandbur is in the seedling stage. Quinclorac is also found in several combination products that control both broadleaf weeds and crabgrass such as one of the following. • Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control • BioAdvanced All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer • Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus • Fertilome Weed Out with Crabgrass Killer • Trimec Crabgrass Plus Lawn Weed Killer • Bonide Weed Beater Plus Crabgrass &amp; Broadleaf Weed Killer • Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer Again, the best control for grassy sandbur is a healthy, thick lawn. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Controlling grassy sandbur 'stickers'

Crabgrass preventers are another name for pre-emergence herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants. Many people have a somewhat foggy idea of how they work and assume they kill the weed seed. &nbsp;Such is not the case. They do not kill the seed or even keep the seed from germinating but rather kill the young plant after it germinates. &nbsp;Therefore, they do not prevent germination but prevent emergence. Crabgrass preventers are just that – preventers. With few exceptions they have no effect on existing crabgrass plants, so they must be applied before germination. Additionally, preventers do not last forever once applied to the soil. &nbsp;Microorganisms and natural processes begin to gradually break them down soon after they are applied. If some products are applied too early, they may have lost much of their strength by the time they are needed. Most crabgrass preventers are fairly ineffective after about 60 days, but there is considerable variation among products. (Dimension and Barricade last longer. See below.)​

For most of Kansas, crabgrass typically begins to germinate around May 1 or a little later. April 15 is normally a good target date for applying preventer because it gives active ingredients time to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. &nbsp;Even better, base timing on the bloom of ornamental plants. The Eastern Redbud tree is a good choice for this purpose. When the trees in your area approach full bloom, apply crabgrass preventer. A follow-up application will be needed about 8 weeks later unless you are using Dimension or Barricade. Products that do require a follow-up application include pendimethalin (Scotts Halts) and Team (Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control). Dimension and Barricade are the only two products that give season-long control of crabgrass from a single application. In fact, they can be applied much earlier than April 15 and still have sufficient residual strength to last the season. Barricade can even be applied in the fall for crabgrass control the next season. Dimension can be applied as early as March 1. Because of the added flexibility in timing, these products are favorites of lawn care companies who have many customers to service in the spring. Though Dimension is usually not applied as early as Barricade, it is the herbicide of choice if it must be applied later than recommended. It is the exception to the rule that pre-emergence herbicides do not kill existing weeds. Dimension can kill crabgrass as long as it is young (two- to three-leaf stage). Dimension is also the best choice if treating a lawn that was planted late last fall.

Normally a pre-emergence herbicide is not recommended unless the lawn has been mowed two to four times. But Dimension is kind to young tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass seedlings and some formulations can be applied as early as two weeks after the first sign of germination. However, read the label of the specific product you wish to use to ensure that this use is allowed. Lawns established in the fall can be safely treated with Dimension the following spring even if they have not been mowed. Note that products containing Dimension and Barricade may use the common name rather than the trade name. The common chemical name for Dimension is dithiopyr and for Barricade is prodiamine. Remember, when using any pesticide, read the label and follow instructions carefully. We recommend crabgrass preventers be applied before fertilizer so that the grass isn’t encouraged to put on too much growth too early. However, it may be difficult to find products that contain preemergents without fertilizer. Those that don’t contain fertilizer are listed below. I didn’t find any products containing Barricade that did not also have a fertilizer. If anyone knows of other products that should be listed, let us know and we will publish them in a later newsletter. Pendimethalin&nbsp; &nbsp;- Scotts Halts Team (Benefin + Trifluralin)&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control Dimension&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Turf &amp; Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper&nbsp; &nbsp;- Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer&nbsp; &nbsp;- Green Light Crabgrass Preventer Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Crabgrass preventers are another name for pre-emergence herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants. Many people have a somewhat foggy idea of how they work and assume they kill the weed seed. &nbsp;Such is not the case. They do not kill the seed or even keep the seed from germinating but rather kill the young plant after it germinates. &nbsp;Therefore, they do not prevent germination but prevent emergence. Crabgrass preventers are just that – preventers. With few exceptions they have no effect on existing crabgrass plants, so they must be applied before germination. Additionally, preventers do not last forever once applied to the soil. &nbsp;Microorganisms and natural processes begin to gradually break them down soon after they are applied. If some products are applied too early, they may have lost much of their strength by the time they are needed. Most crabgrass preventers are fairly ineffective after about 60 days, but there is considerable variation among products. (Dimension and Barricade last longer. See below.)​For most of Kansas, crabgrass typically begins to germinate around May 1 or a little later. April 15 is normally a good target date for applying preventer because it gives active ingredients time to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. &nbsp;Even better, base timing on the bloom of ornamental plants. The Eastern Redbud tree is a good choice for this purpose. When the trees in your area approach full bloom, apply crabgrass preventer. A follow-up application will be needed about 8 weeks later unless you are using Dimension or Barricade. Products that do require a follow-up application include pendimethalin (Scotts Halts) and Team (Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control). Dimension and Barricade are the only two products that give season-long control of crabgrass from a single application. In fact, they can be applied much earlier than April 15 and still have sufficient residual strength to last the season. Barricade can even be applied in the fall for crabgrass control the next season. Dimension can be applied as early as March 1. Because of the added flexibility in timing, these products are favorites of lawn care companies who have many customers to service in the spring. Though Dimension is usually not applied as early as Barricade, it is the herbicide of choice if it must be applied later than recommended. It is the exception to the rule that pre-emergence herbicides do not kill existing weeds. Dimension can kill crabgrass as long as it is young (two- to three-leaf stage). Dimension is also the best choice if treating a lawn that was planted late last fall. Normally a pre-emergence herbicide is not recommended unless the lawn has been mowed two to four times. But Dimension is kind to young tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass seedlings and some formulations can be applied as early as two weeks after the first sign of germination. However, read the label of the specific product you wish to use to ensure that this use is allowed. Lawns established in the fall can be safely treated with Dimension the following spring even if they have not been mowed. Note that products containing Dimension and Barricade may use the common name rather than the trade name. The common chemical name for Dimension is dithiopyr and for Barricade is prodiamine. Remember, when using any pesticide, read the label and follow instructions carefully. We recommend crabgrass preventers be applied before fertilizer so that the grass isn’t encouraged to put on too much growth too early. However, it may be difficult to find products that contain preemergents without fertilizer. Those that don’t contain fertilizer are listed below. I didn’t find any products containing Barricade that did not also have a fertilizer. If anyone knows of other products that should be listed, let us know and we will publish them in a later newsletter. Pendimethalin&nbsp; &nbsp;- Scotts Halts Team (Benefin + Trifluralin)&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control Dimension&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Turf &amp; Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper&nbsp; &nbsp;- Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer&nbsp; &nbsp;- Green Light Crabgrass Preventer Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Applying crabgrass preventers

One of the most neglected tools for vegetable gardeners is a soil thermometer. Soil temperature is a much better measure of when to plant than air temperature or the calendar. Planting when soil is too cool can cause some seeds to rot and transplants to sit there. A number of vegetables can germinate and grow at cool temperatures. For example, peas will germinate and grow well at a soil temperature of 40 F. Though lettuce, parsnips, and spinach can sprout at a soil temperature of 35 F, they prefer at least 45 F for best germination and growth. &nbsp;Radishes also do well at a soil temperature of 45 F. &nbsp;Even if the seeds of these cool-season crops are planted below the recommended soil temperature, the seed will rarely rot. Warm-season crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn, and beans are different. &nbsp;They prefer at least 55 F for germination (or transplanting), but others such as peppers, cucumbers, melons, and sweet potatoes need it even warmer, about 60 F. &nbsp;If planted when soils are too cool, they likely will rot before germinating. Taking soil temperature accurately is a bit of a science. First, use a metal soil thermometer, which is sold in many garden, auto parts, and hardware stores. Take temperature 2.5 inches deep at about 10 to 11 a.m. Temperature variations throughout the day and night affect soil temperature, with the lowest readings after dawn and the warmest around mid-afternoon. The late-morning reading gives a good average temperature. If taking the soil temperature at this time is not practical, take a reading before you leave for work and a second when you return home and use the average. Also be sure to get a consistent reading for four to five days in a row before planting, and make sure a cold snap is not predicted.An excellent guide sheet on this subject is published by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System and is titled “Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.” It can be found <a href="https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/12281/soiltemps.pdf">HERE</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>One of the most neglected tools for vegetable gardeners is a soil thermometer. Soil temperature is a much better measure of when to plant than air temperature or the calendar. Planting when soil is too cool can cause some seeds to rot and transplants to sit there. A number of vegetables can germinate and grow at cool temperatures. For example, peas will germinate and grow well at a soil temperature of 40 F. Though lettuce, parsnips, and spinach can sprout at a soil temperature of 35 F, they prefer at least 45 F for best germination and growth. &nbsp;Radishes also do well at a soil temperature of 45 F. &nbsp;Even if the seeds of these cool-season crops are planted below the recommended soil temperature, the seed will rarely rot. Warm-season crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn, and beans are different. &nbsp;They prefer at least 55 F for germination (or transplanting), but others such as peppers, cucumbers, melons, and sweet potatoes need it even warmer, about 60 F. &nbsp;If planted when soils are too cool, they likely will rot before germinating. Taking soil temperature accurately is a bit of a science. First, use a metal soil thermometer, which is sold in many garden, auto parts, and hardware stores. Take temperature 2.5 inches deep at about 10 to 11 a.m. Temperature variations throughout the day and night affect soil temperature, with the lowest readings after dawn and the warmest around mid-afternoon. The late-morning reading gives a good average temperature. If taking the soil temperature at this time is not practical, take a reading before you leave for work and a second when you return home and use the average. Also be sure to get a consistent reading for four to five days in a row before planting, and make sure a cold snap is not predicted.An excellent guide sheet on this subject is published by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System and is titled “Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.” It can be found <a href="https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/12281/soiltemps.pdf">HERE</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;