Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings. Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seeds from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch. Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. &nbsp; For small spots, a hand rake can be used to roughen up the soil before the seed is applied. A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go in two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. Another option is to use a core aerator. The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil. Of the three methods, I prefer the slit seeder for obtaining good seed/soil contact. &nbsp;However, if watering is difficult, core aeration may be a better option. &nbsp;Regardless of the method used, fertilizer should be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings. Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seeds from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch. Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. &nbsp; For small spots, a hand rake can be used to roughen up the soil before the seed is applied. A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go in two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. Another option is to use a core aerator. The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil. Of the three methods, I prefer the slit seeder for obtaining good seed/soil contact. &nbsp;However, if watering is difficult, core aeration may be a better option. &nbsp;Regardless of the method used, fertilizer should be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Overseeding a lawn

We are seeing numerous reports of fall armyworms especially in the southeast and south-central Kansas. &nbsp;Though we have had fall armyworm outbreaks in the past, this is earlier than usual.

Armyworms are so-called because they invade fields or landscapes as large groups and can cause a lawn to turn brown seemingly overnight. Young worms are ½ to 3/4 inch long. Mature ones are 1 ½ inch long. Body-color may vary from green to almost black but light stripes will be visible along the length of the body. Look for a whitish inverted "Y" on the top of the black head. It normally takes 2 to 3 weeks to progress from egg to pupa. The adult is a moth. Armyworm damage can resemble drought damage but close inspection of the turf will reveal the larvae. Look for active feeding during early morning or evening hours or on cloudy days. Larvae feed on foliage and the resulting dehydration causes to turf to quickly brown. Normally, armyworm damage does not kill established turf but may if populations are high enough. Thick infestations of fall armyworms can damage turfgrass crowns which will kill turf. Acephate (Orthene, Acephate), spinosad (Conserve; Natural Guard Spinosad, Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew; Monterey Garden Insect Spray), and other insecticides are effective caterpillar killers. Treat in the late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. Do not mow for 3 days after treatment. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/8/1629725136273.png" alt="Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>We are seeing numerous reports of fall armyworms especially in the southeast and south-central Kansas. &nbsp;Though we have had fall armyworm outbreaks in the past, this is earlier than usual.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Armyworms are so-called because they invade fields or landscapes as large groups and can cause a lawn to turn brown seemingly overnight. Young worms are ½ to 3/4 inch long. Mature ones are 1 ½ inch long. Body-color may vary from green to almost black but light stripes will be visible along the length of the body. Look for a whitish inverted "Y" on the top of the black head. It normally takes 2 to 3 weeks to progress from egg to pupa. The adult is a moth. Armyworm damage can resemble drought damage but close inspection of the turf will reveal the larvae. Look for active feeding during early morning or evening hours or on cloudy days. Larvae feed on foliage and the resulting dehydration causes to turf to quickly brown. Normally, armyworm damage does not kill established turf but may if populations are high enough. Thick infestations of fall armyworms can damage turfgrass crowns which will kill turf. Acephate (Orthene, Acephate), spinosad (Conserve; Natural Guard Spinosad, Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew; Monterey Garden Insect Spray), and other insecticides are effective caterpillar killers. Treat in the late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. Do not mow for 3 days after treatment. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Fall armyworms on turf

Many gardeners make compost without understanding how to use it around the home. Composthas a number of horticultural applications, which are described below. Fertilization and soil improvement. Organic materials can be added to improve soil looseness and workability. Heavy, tight clay soils benefit from the loosening effects of composted organic materials. In sandy soils, organic material acts as a sponge to hold water and nutrients.Compost contains nutrients plants require. The amount of specific nutrients depends on the types of materials composted and how much water the pile contains. The suggested application rate is 50 to 100 pounds per 100 square feet, which is about ¼ inch of material spread over the entire garden. The best time to apply compost is just before tillage in either the spring or fall to incorporate the compost throughout the root zone. In Kansas, garden soils are often tilled in the fall. Compost made early in the season should be ready by then, or use last year’s compost if you have a two-pile system. Compost at planting. Apply a band of compost in the bottom of a row trench or add several shovels full to the bottom of planting holes. Tomato plants, perennial flowers, trees, and shrubs benefit from the slow release of nutrients through the early growth period. Compost can be applied as a top dressing for seeded vegetables and flowers to prevent soil crusting. It can be used as a substitute for soluble fertilizer or starter solution when mixed in equal parts with water.Leftover compost can be added to garden soil later. Potting mix for seedlings. Compost that has been screened for large particles can be mixed with soil or sand in approximately equal parts, and then used as a growing medium. To ensure healthy seedlings, compost should be well deteriorated and free of harmful disease organisms and insects. Using compost on a lawn. The best way to use compost is to apply it liberally before planting. Fertilize by adding a thin layer of top dressing every year.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Many gardeners make compost without understanding how to use it around the home. Composthas a number of horticultural applications, which are described below. Fertilization and soil improvement. Organic materials can be added to improve soil looseness and workability. Heavy, tight clay soils benefit from the loosening effects of composted organic materials. In sandy soils, organic material acts as a sponge to hold water and nutrients.Compost contains nutrients plants require. The amount of specific nutrients depends on the types of materials composted and how much water the pile contains. The suggested application rate is 50 to 100 pounds per 100 square feet, which is about ¼ inch of material spread over the entire garden. The best time to apply compost is just before tillage in either the spring or fall to incorporate the compost throughout the root zone. In Kansas, garden soils are often tilled in the fall. Compost made early in the season should be ready by then, or use last year’s compost if you have a two-pile system. Compost at planting. Apply a band of compost in the bottom of a row trench or add several shovels full to the bottom of planting holes. Tomato plants, perennial flowers, trees, and shrubs benefit from the slow release of nutrients through the early growth period. Compost can be applied as a top dressing for seeded vegetables and flowers to prevent soil crusting. It can be used as a substitute for soluble fertilizer or starter solution when mixed in equal parts with water.Leftover compost can be added to garden soil later. Potting mix for seedlings. Compost that has been screened for large particles can be mixed with soil or sand in approximately equal parts, and then used as a growing medium. To ensure healthy seedlings, compost should be well deteriorated and free of harmful disease organisms and insects. Using compost on a lawn. The best way to use compost is to apply it liberally before planting. Fertilize by adding a thin layer of top dressing every year.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Using compost

Peonies are a favorite perennial of gardeners because of their beauty and low maintenance. In Kansas, peonies provide a beautiful display of flowers each spring before Memorial Day. Though peonies can be left in place indefinitely, many gardeners wish to increase their plantings and use a process known as division to accomplish this. Keep in mind, however, that peonies often take about three years to return to full bloom and size after division. Fall is the traditional time to divide these plants. Peonies are essentially dormant by mid-August even though the foliage is still green. The first step in division is to remove the foliage. Then dig out the entire plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as possible so that the pink buds or "eyes" are visible. Peony roots are tough, and a sharp knife is needed to cut the roots into separate pieces. Make sure each division has three to four buds. Make sure the location chosen for planting receives at least a half-day of full sun. However, the more sun, the better. Space the plants so that there is at least 2 feet between dwarf types and 4 feet between the standard types. Follow the same rules for planting these divisions as you do for new plants. Make sure the pink buds are about 1 inch below the soil surface. If they are set more than 2 inches deep, flowering may be delayed or completely prevented. As you set the plants, firm soil often as it is added around the plant. If the soil is not firmed, it can settle and pull the plant down with it. Water in well after planting and water as necessary through the fall and winter to keep the soil moist. &nbsp; It is often a good idea to add mulch to the new planting to protect it from heaving. The alternate freezing and thawing that commonly occurs during Kansas winters can "heave" weakly rooted plants out of the ground. Add a mulch of straw, leaves, compost or other material after the soil freezes. Remember, it is not the cold that harms these plants but the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Peonies are a favorite perennial of gardeners because of their beauty and low maintenance. In Kansas, peonies provide a beautiful display of flowers each spring before Memorial Day. Though peonies can be left in place indefinitely, many gardeners wish to increase their plantings and use a process known as division to accomplish this. Keep in mind, however, that peonies often take about three years to return to full bloom and size after division. Fall is the traditional time to divide these plants. Peonies are essentially dormant by mid-August even though the foliage is still green. The first step in division is to remove the foliage. Then dig out the entire plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as possible so that the pink buds or "eyes" are visible. Peony roots are tough, and a sharp knife is needed to cut the roots into separate pieces. Make sure each division has three to four buds. Make sure the location chosen for planting receives at least a half-day of full sun. However, the more sun, the better. Space the plants so that there is at least 2 feet between dwarf types and 4 feet between the standard types. Follow the same rules for planting these divisions as you do for new plants. Make sure the pink buds are about 1 inch below the soil surface. If they are set more than 2 inches deep, flowering may be delayed or completely prevented. As you set the plants, firm soil often as it is added around the plant. If the soil is not firmed, it can settle and pull the plant down with it. Water in well after planting and water as necessary through the fall and winter to keep the soil moist. &nbsp; It is often a good idea to add mulch to the new planting to protect it from heaving. The alternate freezing and thawing that commonly occurs during Kansas winters can "heave" weakly rooted plants out of the ground. Add a mulch of straw, leaves, compost or other material after the soil freezes. Remember, it is not the cold that harms these plants but the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

FICK: Dividing peonies

If there are areas of the garden that are done producing, chop and shred residue in preparation for tilling. If soils are wet, wait a few days so the soil is no longer muddy. Tilling in residue allows plant material to decompose and helps reduce insect and disease problems for the next year. Also, consider using a cover crop to hold the soil and increase the organic matter content of the soil. Small grains such as wheat should be seeded at 3/4 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet from mid-September to late October. &nbsp;Spring oats can also be seeded until mid-September but the rate should be 2 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. &nbsp;Spring oats will winter kill and can be tilled under in the spring. &nbsp;Legume cover crops such as hairy vetch, alfalfa, and sweet clover provide an additional benefit by "fixing" nitrogen, thereby increasing the fertility of the soil. Each of these should be seeded at about 1/4 to ½ pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet of garden. Sweetclover should be seeded from August to early September and hairy vetch and alfalfa from mid-August to late September. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>If there are areas of the garden that are done producing, chop and shred residue in preparation for tilling. If soils are wet, wait a few days so the soil is no longer muddy. Tilling in residue allows plant material to decompose and helps reduce insect and disease problems for the next year. Also, consider using a cover crop to hold the soil and increase the organic matter content of the soil. Small grains such as wheat should be seeded at 3/4 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet from mid-September to late October. &nbsp;Spring oats can also be seeded until mid-September but the rate should be 2 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. &nbsp;Spring oats will winter kill and can be tilled under in the spring. &nbsp;Legume cover crops such as hairy vetch, alfalfa, and sweet clover provide an additional benefit by "fixing" nitrogen, thereby increasing the fertility of the soil. Each of these should be seeded at about 1/4 to ½ pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet of garden. Sweetclover should be seeded from August to early September and hairy vetch and alfalfa from mid-August to late September. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Preparing the vegetable garden for next year

Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care. Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils, they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to drill a 1/8" hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. The hole should be near the bottom of the bucket. &nbsp;Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once after moving it to the opposite side of the tree. &nbsp;After this bucket empties, you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water. A perforated soaker hose or drip irrigation can be used to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot &nbsp;diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out. Regardless of the method used, the soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post, or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care. Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils, they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to drill a 1/8" hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. The hole should be near the bottom of the bucket. &nbsp;Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once after moving it to the opposite side of the tree. &nbsp;After this bucket empties, you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water. A perforated soaker hose or drip irrigation can be used to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot &nbsp;diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out. Regardless of the method used, the soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post, or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Watering newly planted trees and shrubs

TOPEKA&nbsp;– Gov. Laura Kelly this week announced that 26 Kansas nonprofit organizations will receive more than $4 million in Community Service Tax Credits to improve and enhance fundraising efforts for education, health care, child care and housing projects.

“The Community Service Tax Credit program is an excellent tool we can use to support our state’s nonprofits and strengthen the essential services they provide to their communities,”&nbsp;Governor Kelly said.&nbsp;“My administration will continue pursuing innovative initiatives like CSP to improve Kansans’ access to quality education, health care, child care and housing to make Kansas the best state in the nation for families and businesses to call home.”

The CSP program provides a 70% tax credit to qualified donors in rural communities with a population less than 15,000 and a 50% tax credit in larger communities. For example, a donor making a $1,000 gift in a rural community receives a $700 tax credit when they file their state taxes, making the net cost to the donor only $300. CSP is distributing $1 million in awards for childcare and early childhood development projects, specifically for services to those under the age of 5.

CSP is a highly competitive program. Awarded nonprofits were chosen through a competitive, score-based selection process.

This year, 26 of the requested 55 projects (constituting 47% of the total funds requested) received CSP funding.

“When it comes to economic and community development, quality of life has to be a priority,”&nbsp;Lieutenant Governor and Commerce Secretary David Toland said. “Helping to ensure that people have the amenities they need in their communities is one of the best ways to maintain a growing, vibrant, stable economy with a motivated and driven workforce. Programs like CSP are a great way to help achieve this outcome for our state.”

CSP funding is being awarded to the following organizations:

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1626792062891.jpeg" alt="Solomon Valley Manor, Stockton (Courtesy photo)" />
 <figcaption>Solomon Valley Manor, Stockton (Courtesy photo)</figcaption>
 </figure>Office of GovernorTOPEKA&nbsp;– Gov. Laura Kelly this week announced that 26 Kansas nonprofit organizations will receive more than $4 million in Community Service Tax Credits to improve and enhance fundraising efforts for education, health care, child care and housing projects.“The Community Service Tax Credit program is an excellent tool we can use to support our state’s nonprofits and strengthen the essential services they provide to their communities,”&nbsp;Governor Kelly said.&nbsp;“My administration will continue pursuing innovative initiatives like CSP to improve Kansans’ access to quality education, health care, child care and housing to make Kansas the best state in the nation for families and businesses to call home.”The CSP program provides a 70% tax credit to qualified donors in rural communities with a population less than 15,000 and a 50% tax credit in larger communities. For example, a donor making a $1,000 gift in a rural community receives a $700 tax credit when they file their state taxes, making the net cost to the donor only $300. CSP is distributing $1 million in awards for childcare and early childhood development projects, specifically for services to those under the age of 5.CSP is a highly competitive program. Awarded nonprofits were chosen through a competitive, score-based selection process.This year, 26 of the requested 55 projects (constituting 47% of the total funds requested) received CSP funding.“When it comes to economic and community development, quality of life has to be a priority,”&nbsp;Lieutenant Governor and Commerce Secretary David Toland said. “Helping to ensure that people have the amenities they need in their communities is one of the best ways to maintain a growing, vibrant, stable economy with a motivated and driven workforce. Programs like CSP are a great way to help achieve this outcome for our state.”CSP funding is being awarded to the following organizations:<ul>
 <li>Atchison County: Atchison County Community Schools Education Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of an 8,400-sq-ft, multi-purpose facility to serve numerous needs present in their community.</li><li>Barton County: Golden Belt Community Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of a 4,100-sq-ft building that will house Advancing Barton County’s Childcare Development Center.</li><li>Butler County: Flinthills Services, Inc.&nbsp;– Renovations at a 4,800-sq-ft facility, including wall removal, new flooring, addition of handicap-accessible shower, specialized furniture, kitchen renovations, signage and outside fencing and gravel work.</li><li>Cowley County: William Newton Memorial Hospital&nbsp;– Purchase and installation of a new call system, offering improved communication and increased efficiency of patient care.</li><li>Douglas County: Elizabeth B Ballard Community Center, Inc.&nbsp;– Updating building-wide HVAC upgrades that will provide better ventilation, better air filtration and better clean air for the childcare and community center.</li><li>Finney County: High Plains Housing Development Corporation&nbsp;– Initial startup funding for the construction of 3D-concrete printed homes – a first in Kansas.</li><li>Geary County: Aging Well, Inc. – Construction of three small homes that will provide long-term care to a total of 36 elders (12 elders in each home), with a fourth small home planned to provide assisted living services to 14 elders.</li><li>Greeley County: Greeley County Health Services, Inc.&nbsp;– Funding for the&nbsp;G+Kids&nbsp;project, an initiative designed to meet the childcare needs of Greeley County Health Services employees and other local residents.</li><li>Harvey County: Kidron Bethel Retirement Services, Inc. – Construction of a new community space/chapel to solve overcrowding and program disruption at the current space.</li><li>Johnson County: Down Syndrome Guild of Greater Kansas City, Inc. –&nbsp;Establishment of an 11,000-sq-ft multi-functional building to house several components designed to equip people with Down Syndrome of all ages and their caregivers.</li><li>Johnson County: Friends of JCDS, Inc.&nbsp;– The purchase and renovations of two properties for affordable and accessible housing&nbsp;needs, serving adults with intellectual and developmental disabilities.</li><li>Labette County: Labette Health Foundation&nbsp;– Expansion of the Independence Healthcare Center, including a pharmacy, expanded laboratory, ultrasound, conference room, home health, a physical therapy department and an additional 19 exam/procedure rooms.</li><li>Lyon County: Emporia Arts Council&nbsp;– Construction of EAC’s Innovation Laboratory and updates to its classrooms and theater.</li><li>Lyon County: Hetlinger Developmental Services, Inc.&nbsp;– The construction of a new greenhouse with state-of-the-art automated systems, including irrigation, shading and ecofriendly operations, which will allow persons served to participate in horticultural therapy and gardening activities.</li><li>McPherson County: Sprout House Learning Center Inc.&nbsp;– Establishing a purpose-built childcare center to accommodate 67 children in the first phase, which will enable them to move their program out of several makeshift spaces into one attractive space with room to grow and develop the program.</li><li>Montgomery County: Caney Valley Agape Network, Inc.&nbsp;– A new sustainable facility to provide quality produce to more recipients and assist local neighbors in distress.</li><li>Norton County: Valley Hope Association&nbsp;– A new extended treatment program combined with sober housing will expand the existing treatment center capacity from 26 to 35.</li><li>Reno County: Cosmosphere, Inc.&nbsp;– Funding for&nbsp;iWonderSTEM&nbsp;Virtual Education Content, designed to provide 48 underserved schools with a chance to experience the Cosmosphere.</li><li>Rooks County: Solomon Valley Manor&nbsp;– Creating a new long-term care facility that will feature private rooms and private bathrooms/showers.</li><li>Saline County: CKF Addiction Treatment, Inc.&nbsp;– Expanding telehealth treatment services to hospitals across the state to reach additional clients, while continuing to provide services from their homes once they are released.</li><li>Saline County: Young Men's Christian Association of Salina&nbsp;– Adding outdoor pavilions with restrooms to allow expansion of services to their Early Education Center, as well as licensed after school and summer day camp programs for elementary age students.</li><li>Sedgwick County: Catholic Charities Wichita&nbsp;– A new 30,661-square-foot building to serve up to 200 adult participants with intellectual or developmental disabilities, as well as seniors with dementia or Alzheimer’s disease.</li><li>Sedgwick County: The League 42 Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of The Youth Education Center. The center will include 25 computer stations to be at the heart of the education programming provided by League 42.</li><li>Seward County: Kismet Public Library Foundation&nbsp;– Establishment of a community safe room for public use during severe weather events.</li><li>Shawnee County: Friends of the Topeka Zoo, Inc.&nbsp;– Building a new, modern 10,000-square-foot giraffe facility for the zoo’s giraffe herd.&nbsp;</li><li>Wyandotte County: Kansas City Kansas Community College Foundation&nbsp;– A new 114,387-square-foot Downtown Community Education Center to serve as an anchor institution for Kansas City, Kansas.</li>
 </ul>

Stockton, Norton facilities receive tax credits for expansion

Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate the planting and increase flowering. Iris may be divided from late July through August, but late July through early August is ideal.Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength. Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting. Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show high levels of phosphorus. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than the second (phosphorus). This Saturday, July 24, the Ellis County Master Gardeners will be at the Downtown Hays Market from 7:00 am- 1:00 pm selling iris rhizomes for $1 each. They will also be doing demonstrations on how to divide and plant the iris, as well as, answering any questions you may have.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate the planting and increase flowering. Iris may be divided from late July through August, but late July through early August is ideal.Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength. Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting. Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show high levels of phosphorus. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than the second (phosphorus). This Saturday, July 24, the Ellis County Master Gardeners will be at the Downtown Hays Market from 7:00 am- 1:00 pm selling iris rhizomes for $1 each. They will also be doing demonstrations on how to divide and plant the iris, as well as, answering any questions you may have. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Dividing irises

By CRISTINA JANNEY Hays Post

The county fair has been the highlight of 78-year-old Edna Hansen's summer since she was a little girl.&nbsp;

When she was 9, she baked the best muffins at the Trego County Fair, but she was too young to take them to the Kansas State Fair.

"I still don't understand if I could bake the best muffins at 9, why I couldn't go to the county fair," she said with a sharp rap of her fist on the table and a coy smile, "and I still don't understand."

Hansen is a member of the Ellis County Fair Board. She served two stints on the board since 2002 when she and her husband moved back to the area and settled in Ellis. She said she can't remember how many years in total she served, but it's been at least 10 years.&nbsp;

This year will be Hansen's last Ellis County Fair as a board member. She will be moving to Texas soon to be closer to her son.&nbsp;

Hansen participated in 4-H in Trego County when she was a girl. Her family lived a few miles inside the Trego County line. As a child, she brought baking and sewing projects to the fair.

She said her experiences as a child have kept her coming back as a volunteer despite the long hours and little sleep she gets during fair week.

"As a kid, the fair was an extremely important part of my summer," she said. "If as an adult we won't do the work, then the kids lose out on that opportunity because then there is no 4-H fair. There is no open fair if people don't step up.

"I think it is just as important to me as it was when I was young."

For youth 70-years-ago and today, the county fair is something 4-H'ers work for the entire year, Hansen said.&nbsp;

"It was the highlight of the summer," Hansen said, "going to the fair and displaying our projects."

Hansen became a registered nurse and later earned her master's degree in social work. She handled child abuse cases for social services. She also served for a time as director of the Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) of the High Plains, which covers Ellis County.

She said she continued to use her 4-H skill as an adult.

4-H teaches youth how to be part of a group, Roberts Rules of Order, how to work together and how to be independent and work on a project on your own, she said.

"[You learn] sometimes you win, and sometimes you lose and you do both graciously," she said.

Hansen was never a 4-H leader, but her son was involved in 4-H when their family lived in California. He showed rabbits and cooked.

Hansen, a master gardener, is a trained judge and still helps judge horticulture and floriculture. She also won a reserve champion ribbon this year in arts and crafts for a piece of ceramic artwork.

As she's aged, her fair focus has changed.

"As a kid, I can remember thinking, 'When I grow up, I am going to go to the fair every day and I'm staying all day long," she said. "Watch out what you wish for, you might get it."&nbsp;

She said she still loves watching the children as they check their projects for ribbons.&nbsp;

"Seeing how excited they are is still one of my favorite parts," she said.

In 70 years, 4-H has modernized. Kids and adults alike use a computer to submit their entries for the fair — something Hansen still struggles with.

However, she said the same core values embodied in the 4-H pledge are still important today.

My Head to clearing thinking, My Heart to greater loyalty, My Hands to larger service, My Health to better living, For my club, my community, my country and my world.

Her focus as a fair participant has changed since she was a child.

Hansen's focus as a fair board member is the indoor 4-H and open exhibits, some of which include photography, foods, horticulture, arts and crafts, and fine arts.

2020 was very challenging, but the fair went forward with COVID-19 precautions. Several indoor events were canceled. Social distancing and mask-wearing were encouraged.

"We held our breath and prayed a lot that we would not have an outbreak," she said.

Her prayers were answered. No COVID outbreaks were associated with the 2020 fair.

She said it is wonderful to see the community able to come back out and enjoy the fair.

"It is nice to see people out here," she said, "seeing their neighbors, seeing the kids play, seeing them comparing their notes."

Our society is more mobile and children have more opportunities for activities than when Hansen was a child, but she said she believes county fairs are still important aspects of the local communities.&nbsp;

Even for those children who are not 4-H'ers, the fair can provide learning opportunities.

"Even some kids in Hays don't understand where your meat really comes from," she said. "'Well, just go to the store.' Where do you think the store got it from?

"Some of them in Hays had still not seen a live pig or a sheep."

Hansen has had a difficult year personally, her husband died of cancer and her sister died of COVID-19.

Although Hansen is moving out of state, her fellow fair volunteers are already offering to put her up if she'll come back for a visit next summer for the fair.&nbsp;

She said she likely won't stay away from 4-H. She said she'll probably try to find a fair near her new home east of Dallas.

Hansen encouraged more adults to become involved in 4-H and the fair. Many of the fair judges are aging and retiring. New volunteers are needed to take their places, she said.

You can learn more about being a 4-H leader or volunteer by visiting the <a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/">Cottonwood Extension District web</a>page. 4-H offers training for new volunteers.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1626298294411.jpeg" alt="Longtime Ellis County Fair board member Edna Hansen with her reserve champion ceramics project. This is the last year Hansen will be on the board. She is moving to Texas to be near family." />
 <figcaption>Longtime Ellis County Fair board member Edna Hansen with her reserve champion ceramics project. This is the last year Hansen will be on the board. She is moving to Texas to be near family.</figcaption>
 </figure>By CRISTINA JANNEY Hays PostThe county fair has been the highlight of 78-year-old Edna Hansen's summer since she was a little girl.&nbsp;When she was 9, she baked the best muffins at the Trego County Fair, but she was too young to take them to the Kansas State Fair."I still don't understand if I could bake the best muffins at 9, why I couldn't go to the county fair," she said with a sharp rap of her fist on the table and a coy smile, "and I still don't understand."Hansen is a member of the Ellis County Fair Board. She served two stints on the board since 2002 when she and her husband moved back to the area and settled in Ellis. She said she can't remember how many years in total she served, but it's been at least 10 years.&nbsp;This year will be Hansen's last Ellis County Fair as a board member. She will be moving to Texas soon to be closer to her son.&nbsp;Hansen participated in 4-H in Trego County when she was a girl. Her family lived a few miles inside the Trego County line. As a child, she brought baking and sewing projects to the fair.She said her experiences as a child have kept her coming back as a volunteer despite the long hours and little sleep she gets during fair week."As a kid, the fair was an extremely important part of my summer," she said. "If as an adult we won't do the work, then the kids lose out on that opportunity because then there is no 4-H fair. There is no open fair if people don't step up."I think it is just as important to me as it was when I was young."For youth 70-years-ago and today, the county fair is something 4-H'ers work for the entire year, Hansen said.&nbsp;"It was the highlight of the summer," Hansen said, "going to the fair and displaying our projects."Hansen became a registered nurse and later earned her master's degree in social work. She handled child abuse cases for social services. She also served for a time as director of the Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) of the High Plains, which covers Ellis County.She said she continued to use her 4-H skill as an adult.4-H teaches youth how to be part of a group, Roberts Rules of Order, how to work together and how to be independent and work on a project on your own, she said."[You learn] sometimes you win, and sometimes you lose and you do both graciously," she said.Hansen was never a 4-H leader, but her son was involved in 4-H when their family lived in California. He showed rabbits and cooked.Hansen, a master gardener, is a trained judge and still helps judge horticulture and floriculture. She also won a reserve champion ribbon this year in arts and crafts for a piece of ceramic artwork.As she's aged, her fair focus has changed."As a kid, I can remember thinking, 'When I grow up, I am going to go to the fair every day and I'm staying all day long," she said. "Watch out what you wish for, you might get it."&nbsp;She said she still loves watching the children as they check their projects for ribbons.&nbsp;"Seeing how excited they are is still one of my favorite parts," she said.In 70 years, 4-H has modernized. Kids and adults alike use a computer to submit their entries for the fair — something Hansen still struggles with.However, she said the same core values embodied in the 4-H pledge are still important today.My Head to clearing thinking, My Heart to greater loyalty, My Hands to larger service, My Health to better living, For my club, my community, my country and my world.Her focus as a fair participant has changed since she was a child.Hansen's focus as a fair board member is the indoor 4-H and open exhibits, some of which include photography, foods, horticulture, arts and crafts, and fine arts.2020 was very challenging, but the fair went forward with COVID-19 precautions. Several indoor events were canceled. Social distancing and mask-wearing were encouraged."We held our breath and prayed a lot that we would not have an outbreak," she said.Her prayers were answered. No COVID outbreaks were associated with the 2020 fair.She said it is wonderful to see the community able to come back out and enjoy the fair."It is nice to see people out here," she said, "seeing their neighbors, seeing the kids play, seeing them comparing their notes."Our society is more mobile and children have more opportunities for activities than when Hansen was a child, but she said she believes county fairs are still important aspects of the local communities.&nbsp;Even for those children who are not 4-H'ers, the fair can provide learning opportunities."Even some kids in Hays don't understand where your meat really comes from," she said. "'Well, just go to the store.' Where do you think the store got it from?"Some of them in Hays had still not seen a live pig or a sheep."Hansen has had a difficult year personally, her husband died of cancer and her sister died of COVID-19.Although Hansen is moving out of state, her fellow fair volunteers are already offering to put her up if she'll come back for a visit next summer for the fair.&nbsp;She said she likely won't stay away from 4-H. She said she'll probably try to find a fair near her new home east of Dallas.Hansen encouraged more adults to become involved in 4-H and the fair. Many of the fair judges are aging and retiring. New volunteers are needed to take their places, she said.You can learn more about being a 4-H leader or volunteer by visiting the <a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/">Cottonwood Extension District web</a>page. 4-H offers training for new volunteers.

Longtime Ellis County Fair Board member packs her ribbons

Fall gardens do best when planted in mid-July, says K-State horticulture expert&nbsp;

MANHATTAN — It’s nearing the middle of July, so Kansas gardeners are turning their thoughts to harvesting tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and many other fruits and vegetables.&nbsp;

It’s not the time to begin the work all over again…right?&nbsp;

“Probably the last thing most gardeners are thinking of right now is planting vegetables,” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham. “But fall gardens will often produce higher quality, tastier cool-season crops if you plant now.”&nbsp;

Upham said fall vegetables do well if they are allowed to mature during cooler, less stressful times. That means a fall bounty requires getting seeds into the ground as early as mid-July.&nbsp;

Planting vegetables during summer’s heat, however, requires a different approach. “Plant seeds slightly deeper than you would in the spring so that it stays cooler, and the soil around the seeds stay moist longer,” Upham said. “Plant more thick, and thin the plants later. The plants also may need to be protected from rabbits by using fencing.”&nbsp;

Upham shared a timely calendar to help gardeners plan for a fall harvest:&nbsp;

Plant potatoes if you can find them, or use seed potatoes that you might have saved. Do not use freshly dug potatoes because they have a built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, do not use grocery store potatoes; they won’t sprout because they often have been treated.&nbsp;

Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower can be started from seed in mid-July. “Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them,” Upham said, adding that the crops should be transplanted in mid-August.&nbsp;

Seed spinach and long-season maturing lettuce. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;

Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.&nbsp;

“There is no need to fertilize before planting these crops,” Upham said. “Side dress them two weeks after transplanting, or four weeks after sowing seed by apply 2 tablespoons of a 16-0-0 fertilizer, or 1 tablespoon of 27-33-3 or 30-3-4 fertilizer.”&nbsp;

Upham said liquid fertilizer can also be used (many store brands exist), and should be used according to label instruction. “It would be a good idea to wash off the leaves with clean water to prevent burn from the fertilizer,” he said.&nbsp;

Fall crops should be watered more frequently so that the seed does not dry out. Upham recommends a soaker hose or drip irrigation next to the row, which allows water to slowly seep into the ground. “Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge,” he said.&nbsp;

Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <iframe width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HY3aMU82hA4"></iframe>
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Fall gardens do best when planted in mid-July, says K-State horticulture expert&nbsp;</h2>K-State Research &amp; ExtensionMANHATTAN — It’s nearing the middle of July, so Kansas gardeners are turning their thoughts to harvesting tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and many other fruits and vegetables.&nbsp;It’s not the time to begin the work all over again…right?&nbsp;“Probably the last thing most gardeners are thinking of right now is planting vegetables,” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham. “But fall gardens will often produce higher quality, tastier cool-season crops if you plant now.”&nbsp;Upham said fall vegetables do well if they are allowed to mature during cooler, less stressful times. That means a fall bounty requires getting seeds into the ground as early as mid-July.&nbsp;Planting vegetables during summer’s heat, however, requires a different approach. “Plant seeds slightly deeper than you would in the spring so that it stays cooler, and the soil around the seeds stay moist longer,” Upham said. “Plant more thick, and thin the plants later. The plants also may need to be protected from rabbits by using fencing.”&nbsp;Upham shared a timely calendar to help gardeners plan for a fall harvest:&nbsp;<h2>Mid-July&nbsp;</h2>Plant potatoes if you can find them, or use seed potatoes that you might have saved. Do not use freshly dug potatoes because they have a built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, do not use grocery store potatoes; they won’t sprout because they often have been treated.&nbsp;Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower can be started from seed in mid-July. “Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them,” Upham said, adding that the crops should be transplanted in mid-August.&nbsp;<h2>Late July&nbsp;</h2>Seed beets, carrots and beans.&nbsp;<h2>Late July to early August&nbsp;</h2>Seed spinach and long-season maturing lettuce. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;<h2>Mid- to late August&nbsp;</h2>Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.&nbsp;“There is no need to fertilize before planting these crops,” Upham said. “Side dress them two weeks after transplanting, or four weeks after sowing seed by apply 2 tablespoons of a 16-0-0 fertilizer, or 1 tablespoon of 27-33-3 or 30-3-4 fertilizer.”&nbsp;Upham said liquid fertilizer can also be used (many store brands exist), and should be used according to label instruction. “It would be a good idea to wash off the leaves with clean water to prevent burn from the fertilizer,” he said.&nbsp;Fall crops should be watered more frequently so that the seed does not dry out. Upham recommends a soaker hose or drip irrigation next to the row, which allows water to slowly seep into the ground. “Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge,” he said.&nbsp;Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

🎥 Gardeners begin summer harvest … and look ahead to fall 

Larry Allen Towns, 71, of Colby, died Monday, July 5, 2021, at Hays 
Medical Center. He was born July 12, 1949, in Thomas County, KS, to 
Lawrence and Wilma (Kistler) Towns. Larry graduated from Colby High 
School in 1967 and Kansas State University in 1971, with a degree in 
Horticulture. He married Berna Wiens on April 13, 1969, in Colby. After 
Larry graduated college, they moved back to Colby to farm the family 
land he had cared for since the age of 15, when his father passed away. 
Larry went on to grow his farming operation and on the first day of corn
 harvest in 1985, he suffered a heart attack. This did not stop him 
though. Larry served on the Mingo COOP Board, Farm Bureau Board and was 
the president of the North Shore Cabin Area, at Cedar Bluff Lake. He was
 baptized at the Winona United Methodist Church. Larry enjoyed snow 
skiing, farming, fishing, lake time, and attending his grandchildren’s 
sporting events. 
He was preceded in death by his parents; stepfather, Paul Pabst and sister Laura Hansen. 
Larry is survived by his wife Berna; children, Tracy (Terry) Johnson, of
 Holcomb, KS and Travis (Carrie) Towns, of Monument, KS; grandchildren, 
Taylor and Tanner Johnson and Nathan Towns and siblings, Leroy (Jean) 
Towns and Lois (Larry) Struckmeyer. 
Visitation is 5-7:00 p.m. Thursday, July 7, 2021, at Baalmann Mortuary, 
Colby. Funeral Service is 10:00 a.m. Friday, July 8, 2021, also at the 
Mortuary. Memorials may be made to the Northwest Kansas Foundation for 
Hope and sent in care of Baalmann Mortuary, PO Box 391, Colby, KS 67701.
 For information or condolences visit www.baalmannmortuary.com&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1625579706491.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Larry Allen Towns, 71, of Colby, died Monday, July 5, 2021, at Hays 
Medical Center. He was born July 12, 1949, in Thomas County, KS, to 
Lawrence and Wilma (Kistler) Towns. Larry graduated from Colby High 
School in 1967 and Kansas State University in 1971, with a degree in 
Horticulture. He married Berna Wiens on April 13, 1969, in Colby. After 
Larry graduated college, they moved back to Colby to farm the family 
land he had cared for since the age of 15, when his father passed away. 
Larry went on to grow his farming operation and on the first day of corn
 harvest in 1985, he suffered a heart attack. This did not stop him 
though. Larry served on the Mingo COOP Board, Farm Bureau Board and was 
the president of the North Shore Cabin Area, at Cedar Bluff Lake. He was
 baptized at the Winona United Methodist Church. Larry enjoyed snow 
skiing, farming, fishing, lake time, and attending his grandchildren’s 
sporting events. 
He was preceded in death by his parents; stepfather, Paul Pabst and sister Laura Hansen. 
Larry is survived by his wife Berna; children, Tracy (Terry) Johnson, of
 Holcomb, KS and Travis (Carrie) Towns, of Monument, KS; grandchildren, 
Taylor and Tanner Johnson and Nathan Towns and siblings, Leroy (Jean) 
Towns and Lois (Larry) Struckmeyer. 
Visitation is 5-7:00 p.m. Thursday, July 7, 2021, at Baalmann Mortuary, 
Colby. Funeral Service is 10:00 a.m. Friday, July 8, 2021, also at the 
Mortuary. Memorials may be made to the Northwest Kansas Foundation for 
Hope and sent in care of Baalmann Mortuary, PO Box 391, Colby, KS 67701.
 For information or condolences visit www.baalmannmortuary.com&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

Larry Allen Towns

K-State's Upham explains reasons, offers solutions&nbsp;

MANHATTAN – For Kansas gardeners, watching vegetables bloom but not set fruit can be very frustrating.&nbsp;

Yet, for various reasons, that often happens this is the time of year, says Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham.&nbsp;

“There are several possible reasons,” he said. “One condition that can affect several species is over-fertilization.”&nbsp;

Upham said that too much nitrogen in the soil causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Over-fertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers that do produce.&nbsp;

“This is especially true of tomatoes,” Upham said. “Over-fertilized tomatoes will produce a large, apparently healthy plant with no flowers, or flowers that don’t set fruit.”&nbsp;

Tomatoes, a popular choice of many gardeners, also won’t set fruit if the night-time temperature falls below 50 degrees F, which leads to sparse pollen production, according to Upham.&nbsp;

“They also won’t set when night-time temperatures are above 75 degree and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees with hot, dry winds,” he said. “Under such conditions, fertilization is not completed and no fruit develops. However, cherry tomatoes may be more forgiving of high temperatures than the larger slicers and will often set fruit in the heat.”&nbsp;

Upham said that many other crops – including squash, cucumbers, watermelon and muskmelon – can experience other problems.&nbsp;

“First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male; the production of male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes,” he said. “You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom.”&nbsp;

Upham said that if gardeners see both male and female flowers, have not fertilized, but still have a problem, it could be that the garden does not have enough pollinators.&nbsp;

“Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants,” Upham said. “If you don’t see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on any of those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators.”&nbsp;

Upham also cautioned against the over-use of insecticides, which can kill pollinators. He advises spraying near dusk when flowers have closed.&nbsp;

Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu" target="_blank">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1625444048167.jpeg" alt="Temperature and the amount of fertilizer used can affect tomato production. Salina Post photo" />
 <figcaption>Temperature and the amount of fertilizer used can affect tomato production. Salina Post photo</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State's Upham explains reasons, offers solutions&nbsp;</h2>MANHATTAN – For Kansas gardeners, watching vegetables bloom but not set fruit can be very frustrating.&nbsp;Yet, for various reasons, that often happens this is the time of year, says Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham.&nbsp;“There are several possible reasons,” he said. “One condition that can affect several species is over-fertilization.”&nbsp;Upham said that too much nitrogen in the soil causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Over-fertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers that do produce.&nbsp;“This is especially true of tomatoes,” Upham said. “Over-fertilized tomatoes will produce a large, apparently healthy plant with no flowers, or flowers that don’t set fruit.”&nbsp;Tomatoes, a popular choice of many gardeners, also won’t set fruit if the night-time temperature falls below 50 degrees F, which leads to sparse pollen production, according to Upham.&nbsp;“They also won’t set when night-time temperatures are above 75 degree and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees with hot, dry winds,” he said. “Under such conditions, fertilization is not completed and no fruit develops. However, cherry tomatoes may be more forgiving of high temperatures than the larger slicers and will often set fruit in the heat.”&nbsp;Upham said that many other crops – including squash, cucumbers, watermelon and muskmelon – can experience other problems.&nbsp;“First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male; the production of male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes,” he said. “You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom.”&nbsp;Upham said that if gardeners see both male and female flowers, have not fertilized, but still have a problem, it could be that the garden does not have enough pollinators.&nbsp;“Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants,” Upham said. “If you don’t see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on any of those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators.”&nbsp;Upham also cautioned against the over-use of insecticides, which can kill pollinators. He advises spraying near dusk when flowers have closed.&nbsp;Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu" target="_blank">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

Are your vegetables blooming…but no fruit? 

We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather. There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum. Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection.

The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't allow your seeding or overseeding rates to become too high.&nbsp;Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (BioAdvanced Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). 

But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Often tall fescue lawns will recover from brown patch but infections this year seem more severe than usual and may require overseeding this fall.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather. There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum. Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection. The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't allow your seeding or overseeding rates to become too high.&nbsp;Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (BioAdvanced Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Often tall fescue lawns will recover from brown patch but infections this year seem more severe than usual and may require overseeding this fall.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Brown patch on tall fescue

Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing season. &nbsp;But many people dislike both these characteristics. &nbsp;Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive.

Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the tall fescue portion of the lawn is green. Bermuda is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun.So, how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Therefore, you will need to reseed treated areas. In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.​Spray about the middle of July (or when the bermuda is growing well). Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two weeks and scalp the lawn (mow as low as possible and remove clippings.) &nbsp;This will prevent dead grass from covering any bermuda that starts to recover. Wait another two weeks and spray again with glyphosate if there is any green. Wait two more weeks and reseed. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing season. &nbsp;But many people dislike both these characteristics. &nbsp;Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive.Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the tall fescue portion of the lawn is green. Bermuda is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun.So, how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Therefore, you will need to reseed treated areas. In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.​Spray about the middle of July (or when the bermuda is growing well). Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two weeks and scalp the lawn (mow as low as possible and remove clippings.) &nbsp;This will prevent dead grass from covering any bermuda that starts to recover. Wait another two weeks and spray again with glyphosate if there is any green. Wait two more weeks and reseed. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

FICK: Bermudagrass control

Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads, and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid-to late-summer. So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is NOT the time to control it unless it is in an area where a non-selective herbicide that kills everything such as glyphosate (Roundup) can be used. The best control for little barley in turf is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding in early September can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. However, if you do not plan to overseed even though the lawn is a bit thin, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is&nbsp; Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Weed Impede can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue that is grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr) a pre-emergent, is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide about mid-September and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads, and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid-to late-summer. So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is NOT the time to control it unless it is in an area where a non-selective herbicide that kills everything such as glyphosate (Roundup) can be used. The best control for little barley in turf is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding in early September can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. However, if you do not plan to overseed even though the lawn is a bit thin, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is&nbsp; Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Weed Impede can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue that is grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr) a pre-emergent, is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide about mid-September and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Little barley in lawns 

June is the time to fertilize warm-season lawn grasses such as bermudagrass, buffalograss, and zoysiagrass. These species all thrive in warmer summer weather, so this is the time they respond best to fertilization. The most important nutrient is nitrogen (N), and these three species need it in varying amounts. Bermudagrass requires the most nitrogen. High-quality Bermuda stands need about 4 lbs. nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season (low maintenance areas can get by on 2 lbs.). Apply this as four separate applications, about 4 weeks apart, of 1 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. starting in early May. It is already too late for the May application, but the June application is just around the corner. The nitrogen can come from either a quick- or slow-release source. So any lawn fertilizer will work.

Plan the last application no later than August 15. This helps ensure the bermudagrass is not overstimulated, making it susceptible to winter kill. Zoysiagrass grows more slowly than bermudagrass and is prone to develop thatch. &nbsp;Consequently, it does not need as much nitrogen. In fact, too much is worse than too little. One and one-half to 2 pounds N per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season is sufficient. Split the total in two and apply once in early June and again around mid-July.

Slow-release nitrogen is preferable but quick-release is acceptable. Slow-release nitrogen is sometimes listed as “slowly available” or “water insoluble.”​Buffalograss requires the least nitrogen of all lawn species commonly grown in Kansas. It will survive and persist with no supplemental nitrogen but giving it one lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. will improve color and density. 

This application should be made in early June. For a little darker color, fertilize it as described for zoysiagrass in the previous paragraph, but do not apply more than a total of 2 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. in one season. &nbsp;As with zoysia, slow-release nitrogen is preferable, but fast-release is also OK. As for all turfgrasses, phosphorus and potassium are best applied according to soil test results because many soils already have adequate amounts of these nutrients for turfgrass growth. If you need to apply phosphorus or potassium, it is best to core aerate beforehand to ensure the nutrients reach the roots. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>June is the time to fertilize warm-season lawn grasses such as bermudagrass, buffalograss, and zoysiagrass. These species all thrive in warmer summer weather, so this is the time they respond best to fertilization. The most important nutrient is nitrogen (N), and these three species need it in varying amounts. Bermudagrass requires the most nitrogen. High-quality Bermuda stands need about 4 lbs. nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season (low maintenance areas can get by on 2 lbs.). Apply this as four separate applications, about 4 weeks apart, of 1 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. starting in early May. It is already too late for the May application, but the June application is just around the corner. The nitrogen can come from either a quick- or slow-release source. So any lawn fertilizer will work. Plan the last application no later than August 15. This helps ensure the bermudagrass is not overstimulated, making it susceptible to winter kill. Zoysiagrass grows more slowly than bermudagrass and is prone to develop thatch. &nbsp;Consequently, it does not need as much nitrogen. In fact, too much is worse than too little. One and one-half to 2 pounds N per 1,000 sq. ft. during the season is sufficient. Split the total in two and apply once in early June and again around mid-July. Slow-release nitrogen is preferable but quick-release is acceptable. Slow-release nitrogen is sometimes listed as “slowly available” or “water insoluble.”​Buffalograss requires the least nitrogen of all lawn species commonly grown in Kansas. It will survive and persist with no supplemental nitrogen but giving it one lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. will improve color and density. This application should be made in early June. For a little darker color, fertilize it as described for zoysiagrass in the previous paragraph, but do not apply more than a total of 2 lb. N per 1,000 sq. ft. in one season. &nbsp;As with zoysia, slow-release nitrogen is preferable, but fast-release is also OK. As for all turfgrasses, phosphorus and potassium are best applied according to soil test results because many soils already have adequate amounts of these nutrients for turfgrass growth. If you need to apply phosphorus or potassium, it is best to core aerate beforehand to ensure the nutrients reach the roots. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Time to fertilize warm-season grasses

We have a great event called Super 4-H Saturday scheduled for Saturday, June 5. 

Due to COVID restrictions, we're asking participants to pre-register by Friday, May 28 for the contests and times that they will participate.

Here's the link:&nbsp;<a href="https://signup.com/go/pAPkrVQ" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://signup.com/go/pAPkrVQ</a>.

Come join the fun and test your knowledge in six areas - crops, entomology, horticulture, lifeskills, livestock and photography.

You can find the rules for the various contests at&nbsp;<a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/4-hevents/nw4hevents/NW4HJudging2021FINALa.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/…/…/NW4HJudging2021FINALa.pdf</a>

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/5/1622044825238.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>We have a great event called Super 4-H Saturday scheduled for Saturday, June 5. Due to COVID restrictions, we're asking participants to pre-register by Friday, May 28 for the contests and times that they will participate. Here's the link:&nbsp;<a href="https://signup.com/go/pAPkrVQ" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://signup.com/go/pAPkrVQ</a>.Come join the fun and test your knowledge in six areas - crops, entomology, horticulture, lifeskills, livestock and photography.You can find the rules for the various contests at&nbsp;<a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/4-hevents/nw4hevents/NW4HJudging2021FINALa.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/…/…/NW4HJudging2021FINALa.pdf</a>

Sign up for 4-H Super Saturday by Friday

This garden is located at the Kansas State Agricultural Research Center – Hays, formerly called the Experiment Station. It is located just south of Hays Frontier Park, south of the US Highway 183 Alternate (bypass). If you head south on Main, continue south across the Alternate, then take the first drive on your left (east off of 240 th Ave).

The drive curves. When the road takes a right turn, you are at a place to park to view not just the Trial Garden but the Backyard Demonstration Garden as well.

This vegetable garden serves as a trial garden for vegetable varieties being tested by K-State horticulture specialists to help update the list of KSRE recommended vegetable varieties. The Hays garden has typically tested tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers. Other plants such as zucchini and yellow squash are also sometimes grown.

The vegetables are planted, maintained and harvested by the Ellis County Master Gardeners. The actual number of new varieties tested varies year by year. Trial cultivars are planted side by side and include cultivars of the same species that are accepted standards currently in the trade.

Evaluations of each plant are done throughout the growing season. Quantitative and qualitative data is carefully collected for each variety, recorded and then reported to K-State at the end of the season. After harvesting and documenting the performance information, the fruit can be used by the Master Gardener who is doing the data collection. When quantities allow, produce is often shared with all Master Gardeners and/or provided to local food banks.

Master Gardeners of Ellis County, Cottonwood District. More information available at&nbsp; www.cottonwood.ksu.edu or call 785-628-9430

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/3/1614966296214.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>This garden is located at the Kansas State Agricultural Research Center – Hays, formerly called the Experiment Station. It is located just south of Hays Frontier Park, south of the US Highway 183 Alternate (bypass). If you head south on Main, continue south across the Alternate, then take the first drive on your left (east off of 240 th Ave).The drive curves. When the road takes a right turn, you are at a place to park to view not just the Trial Garden but the Backyard Demonstration Garden as well.This vegetable garden serves as a trial garden for vegetable varieties being tested by K-State horticulture specialists to help update the list of KSRE recommended vegetable varieties. The Hays garden has typically tested tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers. Other plants such as zucchini and yellow squash are also sometimes grown.The vegetables are planted, maintained and harvested by the Ellis County Master Gardeners. The actual number of new varieties tested varies year by year. Trial cultivars are planted side by side and include cultivars of the same species that are accepted standards currently in the trade.Evaluations of each plant are done throughout the growing season. Quantitative and qualitative data is carefully collected for each variety, recorded and then reported to K-State at the end of the season. After harvesting and documenting the performance information, the fruit can be used by the Master Gardener who is doing the data collection. When quantities allow, produce is often shared with all Master Gardeners and/or provided to local food banks.Master Gardeners of Ellis County, Cottonwood District. More information available at&nbsp; www.cottonwood.ksu.edu or call 785-628-9430

From the Ellis County Master Gardeners: Vegetable trial garden

We are approaching the time of year when many people take a vacation. In the rush to get everything done before leaving, don't forget your houseplants will probably need watering while you are gone. The best alternative is to have someone water them for you. However, if this is not possible, there are alternatives. 1. Well-watered plants can be placed inside a plastic bag. Prop up the bag by using wooden dowels or something similar to keep the plastic off the leaves. Make sure the enclosed plants will not receive full sun as heat buildup may cook them. Bright, indirect light is best. Plants should keep for about a week with this method. 2. This method requires an old dish drying rack, a bathtub in a bathroom with some natural light, and some shoelaces. Place the drying rack upside down in the tub and add several inches of water. Push one end of a shoelace through a drainage hole on the bottom of a pot and into the potting soil of your houseplant. The other end of the shoelace dangles into the water. You have made a wick system that will replace the water in the pot as the plant uses it. Plants can last a couple of weeks if you have enough natural light.​

3. Numerous commercial products that can be used to automatically water houseplants in your absence. The advantage of these products is that the houseplant does not normally need to be moved. All require a reservoir from which water is either siphoned or pumped to individual houseplants. Houseplants should last as long as the water holds out. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>We are approaching the time of year when many people take a vacation. In the rush to get everything done before leaving, don't forget your houseplants will probably need watering while you are gone. The best alternative is to have someone water them for you. However, if this is not possible, there are alternatives. 1. Well-watered plants can be placed inside a plastic bag. Prop up the bag by using wooden dowels or something similar to keep the plastic off the leaves. Make sure the enclosed plants will not receive full sun as heat buildup may cook them. Bright, indirect light is best. Plants should keep for about a week with this method. 2. This method requires an old dish drying rack, a bathtub in a bathroom with some natural light, and some shoelaces. Place the drying rack upside down in the tub and add several inches of water. Push one end of a shoelace through a drainage hole on the bottom of a pot and into the potting soil of your houseplant. The other end of the shoelace dangles into the water. You have made a wick system that will replace the water in the pot as the plant uses it. Plants can last a couple of weeks if you have enough natural light.​3. Numerous commercial products that can be used to automatically water houseplants in your absence. The advantage of these products is that the houseplant does not normally need to be moved. All require a reservoir from which water is either siphoned or pumped to individual houseplants. Houseplants should last as long as the water holds out. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Watering houseplants while on vacation 

We are entering storm season and various areas of the state will likely have high winds, excessive rainfall and hail. This column deals with what can be done to help our gardens recover.

Heavy rain: The force of rainfall pounding on the soil can result in a thick crust that prevents seed emergence and partially blocks oxygen from reaching roots. A light scraping after the soil surface has dried is all that is needed to correct these problems. Be careful of deep tilling as it may damage young, tender roots.

Standing water: Standing water cuts off oxygen to the roots, which can result in plant damage if it doesn’t drain quickly enough. Most plants can withstand 24 hours of standing water without harm. Hot, sunny weather can make a bad situation worse by the water becoming hot enough to “cook” the plants. There isn’t much that can be done about this unless a channel can be cut to allow the water to drain.

Hail damage: Plants should recover quickly as long as the leaves only were damaged by the hail as leaves regenerate quickly. The situation becomes much more serious if the stems and fruit were damaged. The plant can recover from a few bruises but if it looks like the plants were mowed down by a weed whip, replanting is in order.&nbsp;

Leaning plants: Either wind or water can cause plants to lean. They should start to straighten after a few days. Don’t try to bend them back as they often break easily. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>We are entering storm season and various areas of the state will likely have high winds, excessive rainfall and hail. This column deals with what can be done to help our gardens recover.Heavy rain: The force of rainfall pounding on the soil can result in a thick crust that prevents seed emergence and partially blocks oxygen from reaching roots. A light scraping after the soil surface has dried is all that is needed to correct these problems. Be careful of deep tilling as it may damage young, tender roots.Standing water: Standing water cuts off oxygen to the roots, which can result in plant damage if it doesn’t drain quickly enough. Most plants can withstand 24 hours of standing water without harm. Hot, sunny weather can make a bad situation worse by the water becoming hot enough to “cook” the plants. There isn’t much that can be done about this unless a channel can be cut to allow the water to drain.Hail damage: Plants should recover quickly as long as the leaves only were damaged by the hail as leaves regenerate quickly. The situation becomes much more serious if the stems and fruit were damaged. The plant can recover from a few bruises but if it looks like the plants were mowed down by a weed whip, replanting is in order.&nbsp;Leaning plants: Either wind or water can cause plants to lean. They should start to straighten after a few days. Don’t try to bend them back as they often break easily. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

FICK: Storm damage and the garden

There have been a number of plants that have either died over winter or been slow to leaf out. &nbsp;In some cases, this is likely due to accumulated stress. &nbsp;We often think of plants reacting to stress that happened during the current season or possibly the previous year but it may not be that simple. &nbsp;I think this all started during the winter of 2017 - 2018. &nbsp;Many areas of Kansas had virtually no rain or snow from November through most of April during that winter. &nbsp;This put plants under a tremendous amount of stress. &nbsp; Plants under stress often react by setting an abnormal number of fruit buds. &nbsp;This helps ensure the survival of the species even if the parent plant dies. &nbsp;So lots of fruit buds were set during 2018. &nbsp;Those buds matured into flowers and then fruit (seeds) during 2019. &nbsp;Think back to last year. &nbsp;I have never seen certain plants bloom as well as they did last year. &nbsp;Maturing this much fruit takes a great deal of energy. &nbsp;I think this resulted in such low energy levels in the fall that the plants just didn’t have enough energy to make it through the winter or may have delayed leaf out. &nbsp;Areas with too much rain last summer had that additional stress added to the mix. &nbsp;Roots need oxygen as well as water and too much rain can damage root systems. So what do we do? &nbsp;The only thing we can do now is try to avoid any further stress. &nbsp;Basically, that means watering during dry weather. &nbsp;Don’t overdo it as too much moisture can damage root systems. &nbsp;The goal is to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged while allowing the top of the soil surface to dry between waterings. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>There have been a number of plants that have either died over winter or been slow to leaf out. &nbsp;In some cases, this is likely due to accumulated stress. &nbsp;We often think of plants reacting to stress that happened during the current season or possibly the previous year but it may not be that simple. &nbsp;I think this all started during the winter of 2017 - 2018. &nbsp;Many areas of Kansas had virtually no rain or snow from November through most of April during that winter. &nbsp;This put plants under a tremendous amount of stress. &nbsp; Plants under stress often react by setting an abnormal number of fruit buds. &nbsp;This helps ensure the survival of the species even if the parent plant dies. &nbsp;So lots of fruit buds were set during 2018. &nbsp;Those buds matured into flowers and then fruit (seeds) during 2019. &nbsp;Think back to last year. &nbsp;I have never seen certain plants bloom as well as they did last year. &nbsp;Maturing this much fruit takes a great deal of energy. &nbsp;I think this resulted in such low energy levels in the fall that the plants just didn’t have enough energy to make it through the winter or may have delayed leaf out. &nbsp;Areas with too much rain last summer had that additional stress added to the mix. &nbsp;Roots need oxygen as well as water and too much rain can damage root systems. So what do we do? &nbsp;The only thing we can do now is try to avoid any further stress. &nbsp;Basically, that means watering during dry weather. &nbsp;Don’t overdo it as too much moisture can damage root systems. &nbsp;The goal is to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged while allowing the top of the soil surface to dry between waterings. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: Plants slow to leaf out in spring 2021

Field bindweed is difficult to control, especially for homeowners, but there are options.

Home Vegetable Gardens: Weed control requires taking the treated portion of the garden out of production for a time.

Glyphosate - Glyphosate is sold under a wide variety of names, the most common being Roundup. Take the garden out of production when treating.

1. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that will kill whatever it hits but is inactivated when it contacts the soil.

2. Glyphosate is most effective when applied to bindweed that is at or beyond full bloom. You can treat earlier but don't skip the late summer to fall application.

3. Do not apply to bindweed that is under moisture stress or not growing well.

Turf: Selective herbicides are available. An herbicide with the trade name of Drive (quinclorac) is now packaged in homeowner combination herbicides such as Fertilome Weed-Out with Q, Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control, Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus, and Bayer All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer.

Commercial applicators can also use Drive (quinclorac) as well as Q4 (contains quinclorac). Products with Drive work better than glyphosate and are selective. Note that lawns treated with Drive should not use clippings in compost or as a mulch since Drive is very stable on grass clippings.  We recommend clippings be returned to the lawn anyway but if they are bagged, they should be discarded. Do not apply products with Drive over exposed roots of trees and ornamentals. It would be best to avoid spraying beneath the canopy of any trees to avoid possible damage. If there are plans to convert a section of lawn to a vegetable garden, do not use Drive on that area. Eggplants can be damaged if planted within 12 months of areas treated with Drive, and tomatoes can be damaged if planted within 24 months.  Shrub Beds: Use a spray of glyphosate between plants. Use a shield if spraying near plants to keep spray from contacting green plant material. Remember, glyphosate will hurt your shrubs if it contacts green tissue.

It is possible to control field bindweed by pulling, but you must be extremely persistent. I remember reading a study from the 1940s that found that bindweed produces enough energy to start strengthening the roots when it reached the six-leaf stage. So, if pulling, never allow plants to produce more than six leaves.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Field bindweed is difficult to control, especially for homeowners, but there are options.Home Vegetable Gardens: Weed control requires taking the treated portion of the garden out of production for a time.Glyphosate - Glyphosate is sold under a wide variety of names, the most common being Roundup. Take the garden out of production when treating.1. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that will kill whatever it hits but is inactivated when it contacts the soil.2. Glyphosate is most effective when applied to bindweed that is at or beyond full bloom. You can treat earlier but don't skip the late summer to fall application.3. Do not apply to bindweed that is under moisture stress or not growing well.Turf: Selective herbicides are available. An herbicide with the trade name of Drive (quinclorac) is now packaged in homeowner combination herbicides such as Fertilome Weed-Out with Q, Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control, Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus, and Bayer All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer.Commercial applicators can also use Drive (quinclorac) as well as Q4 (contains quinclorac). Products with Drive work better than glyphosate and are selective. Note that lawns treated with Drive should not use clippings in compost or as a mulch since Drive is very stable on grass clippings. We recommend clippings be returned to the lawn anyway but if they are bagged, they should be discarded. Do not apply products with Drive over exposed roots of trees and ornamentals. It would be best to avoid spraying beneath the canopy of any trees to avoid possible damage. If there are plans to convert a section of lawn to a vegetable garden, do not use Drive on that area. Eggplants can be damaged if planted within 12 months of areas treated with Drive, and tomatoes can be damaged if planted within 24 months. Shrub Beds: Use a spray of glyphosate between plants. Use a shield if spraying near plants to keep spray from contacting green plant material. Remember, glyphosate will hurt your shrubs if it contacts green tissue.It is possible to control field bindweed by pulling, but you must be extremely persistent. I remember reading a study from the 1940s that found that bindweed produces enough energy to start strengthening the roots when it reached the six-leaf stage. So, if pulling, never allow plants to produce more than six leaves.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: ​Field bindweed control

The garden, located at the K-State Agricultural Research Center south of Hays, was established in 2016 with funds provided by a grant from the Heartland Community Foundation.&nbsp;

The garden area measures approximately 12’ x 20’.&nbsp; The soil was tested, prepared and a fall garden was planted in 2016, with its official debut during Horticulture Night at the Ag Research Center, September 20, 2016.

Work resumed during the spring of 2017 when a fence was built and compost bins were constructed out of pallets on the east end of the garden plot. Spring crops of onions, potatoes and beans were planted, as well as perennial crops of rhubarb and asparagus. Other vegetables that have been grown are radishes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, cabbage, carrots and eggplant.

The purpose and goal of the Backyard Garden Project is to demonstrate to the general public how to start and maintain a vegetable garden in a smaller space like a backyard area. A composting station is also maintained as part of this project. This garden provides an opportunity for Master Gardeners to show the various crops that can be grown in a small area. It also gives Master Gardeners opportunities to experiment with best practices in fertilization, watering, weeding, mulching and producing and using compost in a garden to optimize crop production.

The Backyard Garden committee decides yearly which crops to plant and determines the layout of the garden plot. It decides on any new ideas or methods to try for the new season. Several Master Gardener volunteers help with the planning, planting and maintenance throughout the year. This garden project would not be possible or successful without the hard work and dedication of this group.

The public is welcome and encouraged to stop by and visit the garden’s progress during the growing season at the Ag Research Center.&nbsp;There is signage on the east end of the garden plot concerning composting and a Kansas Garden Guide booklet in the attached mailbox for reference. Gardening questions can be addressed by the Master Gardeners or the Extension Horticulturist by calling the Cottonwood District Extension Office in Hays at 785-628-9430..

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/3/1614966296214.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>The garden, located at the K-State Agricultural Research Center south of Hays, was established in 2016 with funds provided by a grant from the Heartland Community Foundation.&nbsp; The garden area measures approximately 12’ x 20’.&nbsp; The soil was tested, prepared and a fall garden was planted in 2016, with its official debut during Horticulture Night at the Ag Research Center, September 20, 2016. Work resumed during the spring of 2017 when a fence was built and compost bins were constructed out of pallets on the east end of the garden plot. Spring crops of onions, potatoes and beans were planted, as well as perennial crops of rhubarb and asparagus. Other vegetables that have been grown are radishes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, cabbage, carrots and eggplant. The purpose and goal of the Backyard Garden Project is to demonstrate to the general public how to start and maintain a vegetable garden in a smaller space like a backyard area. A composting station is also maintained as part of this project. This garden provides an opportunity for Master Gardeners to show the various crops that can be grown in a small area. It also gives Master Gardeners opportunities to experiment with best practices in fertilization, watering, weeding, mulching and producing and using compost in a garden to optimize crop production. The Backyard Garden committee decides yearly which crops to plant and determines the layout of the garden plot. It decides on any new ideas or methods to try for the new season. Several Master Gardener volunteers help with the planning, planting and maintenance throughout the year. This garden project would not be possible or successful without the hard work and dedication of this group. The public is welcome and encouraged to stop by and visit the garden’s progress during the growing season at the Ag Research Center.&nbsp;There is signage on the east end of the garden plot concerning composting and a Kansas Garden Guide booklet in the attached mailbox for reference. Gardening questions can be addressed by the Master Gardeners or the Extension Horticulturist by calling the Cottonwood District Extension Office in Hays at 785-628-9430..

From the Ellis Co. Master Gardeners: Backyard family demonstration garden

Considering the fact that moles spend most of their time underground, they sure cause quite a mess above the ground.&nbsp;

Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said the surest signs that homeowners have of moles in their yard are the meandering paths or tunnels of upheaved soil, caused by the small mammals foraging for food.&nbsp;

“Some tunnels may be abandoned soon after being built, while others are travel lanes and are used for a longer period of time,” Upham said. “If the soil is dry, moles form mounds of soil (as they search for food), but do not make the meandering paths,” &nbsp;

The result is a traffic-way of lines in the home lawn and other parts of the yard that soon cause soft sections that crumble under foot. That can cause a problem for lawns, in particular, because even though moles don’t feed on plant matter, their movements disrupt roots and uproot small plants.&nbsp;

“The best control method for moles is the use of traps,” Upham said, noting there are three types of traps (harpoon, choker and scissor-jawed) but each takes some time to master.&nbsp;

“Moles use some tunnels more than others,” Upham said. “Use a broomstick or something similar to poke holes in a number of runs. Check a day later to see which runs have been repaired. These are the active runs that should be used to place traps.”&nbsp;

In an active run, Upham suggests excavating the soil, placing the trap and then replacing loose soil. “Secure the trap so that the recoil will not lift the trap out of the ground,” he said. “Make sure the triggering mechanism is in the center of the run.”&nbsp;

To help ensure success, push down two holes on each side of the trap. “Moles should be caught when they try to repair the tunnel,” Upham said. “Move the traps if moles are not caught within three days.”&nbsp;

Aside from traps, Upham said numerous home remedies to control moles have been tried, including chewing gum, noise makers, broken glass, bleaches, windmills and human hair. “None have been found to provide consistent and reliable control,” he said.&nbsp;

“Poison baits also fail to work because moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not vegetable matter,” Upham said. “Even grub control products are ineffective because they do not control earthworms, which are the primary food source for moles.”&nbsp;

More information including examples of how to track an active mole tunnel and set a trap are shown in videos available online from the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/species/moles/index.html">K-State Research and Extension wildlife management program</a>.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Considering the fact that moles spend most of their time underground, they sure cause quite a mess above the ground.&nbsp;Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said the surest signs that homeowners have of moles in their yard are the meandering paths or tunnels of upheaved soil, caused by the small mammals foraging for food.&nbsp;“Some tunnels may be abandoned soon after being built, while others are travel lanes and are used for a longer period of time,” Upham said. “If the soil is dry, moles form mounds of soil (as they search for food), but do not make the meandering paths,” &nbsp;The result is a traffic-way of lines in the home lawn and other parts of the yard that soon cause soft sections that crumble under foot. That can cause a problem for lawns, in particular, because even though moles don’t feed on plant matter, their movements disrupt roots and uproot small plants.&nbsp;“The best control method for moles is the use of traps,” Upham said, noting there are three types of traps (harpoon, choker and scissor-jawed) but each takes some time to master.&nbsp;“Moles use some tunnels more than others,” Upham said. “Use a broomstick or something similar to poke holes in a number of runs. Check a day later to see which runs have been repaired. These are the active runs that should be used to place traps.”&nbsp;In an active run, Upham suggests excavating the soil, placing the trap and then replacing loose soil. “Secure the trap so that the recoil will not lift the trap out of the ground,” he said. “Make sure the triggering mechanism is in the center of the run.”&nbsp;To help ensure success, push down two holes on each side of the trap. “Moles should be caught when they try to repair the tunnel,” Upham said. “Move the traps if moles are not caught within three days.”&nbsp;Aside from traps, Upham said numerous home remedies to control moles have been tried, including chewing gum, noise makers, broken glass, bleaches, windmills and human hair. “None have been found to provide consistent and reliable control,” he said.&nbsp;“Poison baits also fail to work because moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not vegetable matter,” Upham said. “Even grub control products are ineffective because they do not control earthworms, which are the primary food source for moles.”&nbsp;More information including examples of how to track an active mole tunnel and set a trap are shown in videos available online from the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/species/moles/index.html">K-State Research and Extension wildlife management program</a>.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Mole control

May is an excellent time to fertilize cool-season lawns such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass if they will be irrigated throughout the summer. Non-irrigated lawns often go through a period of summer dormancy because of drought and do not need this fertilization. May is a good time to fertilize because the springtime flush of growth characteristic of these grasses has tapered off, so the fertilizer you apply will be less likely to cause excessive shoot growth than if you fertilized at a full rate in April. Slow-release nitrogen sources are ideal. These nitrogen sources promote controlled growth, which is desirable as the stressful summer weather approaches. Relatively few fertilizers are available to the homeowner supply ALL the nitrogen in the slowly available form. But one such product that is widely available is Milorganite. Other such products available in the retail market include cottonseed meal, alfalfa-based fertilizers, and any other products derived from plants or animals. (Bloodmeal is an exception, and contrary to popular belief, the nitrogen it supplies is quickly available.) These products are all examples of natural organic fertilizers. They typically contain less than 10 percent nitrogen by weight, so compared to most synthetic fertilizers, more product must be applied to get the same amount of nitrogen. Translation: they are more expensive! Apply enough to give the lawn one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For example, if the fertilizer is 6 percent nitrogen by weight, you will need to apply almost 17 pounds of fertilizer product per 1,000 square feet. Summer lawn fertilizers that contain at least a portion of the nitrogen as slow release are fine to use as well. Be sure to follow label directions. If cost is prohibitive, you can use the less expensive quick-release (i.e., soluble) sources, but split the application into two doses as follows: apply enough to give the lawn 0.5 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in May and again in early June. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>May is an excellent time to fertilize cool-season lawns such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass if they will be irrigated throughout the summer. Non-irrigated lawns often go through a period of summer dormancy because of drought and do not need this fertilization. May is a good time to fertilize because the springtime flush of growth characteristic of these grasses has tapered off, so the fertilizer you apply will be less likely to cause excessive shoot growth than if you fertilized at a full rate in April. Slow-release nitrogen sources are ideal. These nitrogen sources promote controlled growth, which is desirable as the stressful summer weather approaches. Relatively few fertilizers are available to the homeowner supply ALL the nitrogen in the slowly available form. But one such product that is widely available is Milorganite. Other such products available in the retail market include cottonseed meal, alfalfa-based fertilizers, and any other products derived from plants or animals. (Bloodmeal is an exception, and contrary to popular belief, the nitrogen it supplies is quickly available.) These products are all examples of natural organic fertilizers. They typically contain less than 10 percent nitrogen by weight, so compared to most synthetic fertilizers, more product must be applied to get the same amount of nitrogen. Translation: they are more expensive! Apply enough to give the lawn one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For example, if the fertilizer is 6 percent nitrogen by weight, you will need to apply almost 17 pounds of fertilizer product per 1,000 square feet. Summer lawn fertilizers that contain at least a portion of the nitrogen as slow release are fine to use as well. Be sure to follow label directions. If cost is prohibitive, you can use the less expensive quick-release (i.e., soluble) sources, but split the application into two doses as follows: apply enough to give the lawn 0.5 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in May and again in early June. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;