By KAREN MADORIN
In late November of 1996, we moved to a rural property on a limestone hilltop west of Ellis. By the time we got into the house, leaves swirled about the yard, hinting at greenery we could expect to see once spring arrived.
A deep draw filled with standing and fallen trees as well as lots of bushes ran into Big Creek west of the house. I impatiently awaited warm weather and longer days to see what grew in that wildlife-rich habitat. I loved discovering not only ash, hackberry, cottonwood, and cedar trees, but also chokecherry bushes and wild grape vines filled that drainage. Over time, thick vines had climbed so high into the trees that birds had far greater odds of harvesting grapes than we did. Though our soil appeared rocky and barren, in reality, it suited wild grapes perfectly. It made me wonder how a vineyard would do in this region.
Apparently, others shared my question. A decade later, a Wakeeney/Voda farm family with necessary skills and resources saw potential in raising grapes. They planted scores of vines, and birthed Shiloh Vineyard. Their dream has grown enough so they not only produce regional wines but they also host weddings, business, family, and friend gatherings, and 70th birthday parties. Yep, a friend invited me to her milestone birthday held last week at Shiloh Vineyard. Who knew adding a year could be so much fun.
Attending that celebration offered 15 of us the chance to see how Kirk and Treva Johnston have worked hard to turn their family farm into a successful winery and event destination. Guests can enjoy the western Kansas prairie while learning more about the vineyard and wines. I’d guess listening to a meadowlark serenade or watching a stunning sunset while sipping local wine creates favorite memories. The Johnstons offer a tour of their operation that includes a peek at huge casks where wine chemistry takes place as well showing off their rustic dining venue where guests can celebrate weddings, anniversaries, work, graduations, or just because. The tasting room and outdoor gathering area sit north of the barn.
My friend chose to celebrate her 7 decades in the tasting room. It’s cozy enough to encourage visiting across the room between samples of wines and nibbles of crackers and cheese. During my decades, I’ve watched a movie or two where knowledgeable folk sniff and swirl glasses of wine, but I never understood that smelling the bouquet business or the differences between dry, semi-sweet, sweet, whites, reds, and dessert wines. Kirk and Treva offer down to earth guidelines to help guests who know nothing make sense of wine tasting. Many party guests knew more than I, but all of us learned something. My favorite lesson involved discovering a coffee flavored dessert wine that made my taste buds tap dance. I would never guess you could ferment coffee and grapes to create after-dinner magic.
I counted it a blessing to help a dear friend celebrate a milestone birthday, but doing that while enjoying an afternoon on the prairie paired with an opportunity to learn something new about our state’s agriculture made the day extra special. Kansas grapes and wine may end up as famous as its wheat.
Karen is a retired teacher, writer, photographer, outdoors lover, and sixth-generation Kansan. After a time away, she’s glad to be home.