Field bindweed is difficult to control, especially for homeowners, but there are options.

Home Vegetable Gardens: Weed control requires taking the treated portion of the garden out of production for a time.

Glyphosate - Glyphosate is sold under a wide variety of names, the most common being Roundup. Take the garden out of production when treating.

1. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that will kill whatever it hits but is inactivated when it contacts the soil.

2. Glyphosate is most effective when applied to bindweed that is at or beyond full bloom. You can treat earlier but don't skip the late summer to fall application.

3. Do not apply to bindweed that is under moisture stress or not growing well.

Turf: Selective herbicides are available. An herbicide with the trade name of Drive (quinclorac) is now packaged in homeowner combination herbicides such as Fertilome Weed-Out with Q, Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control, Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus, and Bayer All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer.

Commercial applicators can also use Drive (quinclorac) as well as Q4 (contains quinclorac). Products with Drive work better than glyphosate and are selective. Note that lawns treated with Drive should not use clippings in compost or as a mulch since Drive is very stable on grass clippings.  We recommend clippings be returned to the lawn anyway but if they are bagged, they should be discarded. Do not apply products with Drive over exposed roots of trees and ornamentals. It would be best to avoid spraying beneath the canopy of any trees to avoid possible damage. If there are plans to convert a section of lawn to a vegetable garden, do not use Drive on that area. Eggplants can be damaged if planted within 12 months of areas treated with Drive, and tomatoes can be damaged if planted within 24 months.  Shrub Beds: Use a spray of glyphosate between plants. Use a shield if spraying near plants to keep spray from contacting green plant material. Remember, glyphosate will hurt your shrubs if it contacts green tissue.

It is possible to control field bindweed by pulling, but you must be extremely persistent. I remember reading a study from the 1940s that found that bindweed produces enough energy to start strengthening the roots when it reached the six-leaf stage. So, if pulling, never allow plants to produce more than six leaves.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Field bindweed is difficult to control, especially for homeowners, but there are options.Home Vegetable Gardens: Weed control requires taking the treated portion of the garden out of production for a time.Glyphosate - Glyphosate is sold under a wide variety of names, the most common being Roundup. Take the garden out of production when treating.1. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that will kill whatever it hits but is inactivated when it contacts the soil.2. Glyphosate is most effective when applied to bindweed that is at or beyond full bloom. You can treat earlier but don't skip the late summer to fall application.3. Do not apply to bindweed that is under moisture stress or not growing well.Turf: Selective herbicides are available. An herbicide with the trade name of Drive (quinclorac) is now packaged in homeowner combination herbicides such as Fertilome Weed-Out with Q, Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control, Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus, and Bayer All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer.Commercial applicators can also use Drive (quinclorac) as well as Q4 (contains quinclorac). Products with Drive work better than glyphosate and are selective. Note that lawns treated with Drive should not use clippings in compost or as a mulch since Drive is very stable on grass clippings. We recommend clippings be returned to the lawn anyway but if they are bagged, they should be discarded. Do not apply products with Drive over exposed roots of trees and ornamentals. It would be best to avoid spraying beneath the canopy of any trees to avoid possible damage. If there are plans to convert a section of lawn to a vegetable garden, do not use Drive on that area. Eggplants can be damaged if planted within 12 months of areas treated with Drive, and tomatoes can be damaged if planted within 24 months. Shrub Beds: Use a spray of glyphosate between plants. Use a shield if spraying near plants to keep spray from contacting green plant material. Remember, glyphosate will hurt your shrubs if it contacts green tissue.It is possible to control field bindweed by pulling, but you must be extremely persistent. I remember reading a study from the 1940s that found that bindweed produces enough energy to start strengthening the roots when it reached the six-leaf stage. So, if pulling, never allow plants to produce more than six leaves.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: ​Field bindweed control

The garden, located at the K-State Agricultural Research Center south of Hays, was established in 2016 with funds provided by a grant from the Heartland Community Foundation.&nbsp;

The garden area measures approximately 12’ x 20’.&nbsp; The soil was tested, prepared and a fall garden was planted in 2016, with its official debut during Horticulture Night at the Ag Research Center, September 20, 2016.

Work resumed during the spring of 2017 when a fence was built and compost bins were constructed out of pallets on the east end of the garden plot. Spring crops of onions, potatoes and beans were planted, as well as perennial crops of rhubarb and asparagus. Other vegetables that have been grown are radishes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, cabbage, carrots and eggplant.

The purpose and goal of the Backyard Garden Project is to demonstrate to the general public how to start and maintain a vegetable garden in a smaller space like a backyard area. A composting station is also maintained as part of this project. This garden provides an opportunity for Master Gardeners to show the various crops that can be grown in a small area. It also gives Master Gardeners opportunities to experiment with best practices in fertilization, watering, weeding, mulching and producing and using compost in a garden to optimize crop production.

The Backyard Garden committee decides yearly which crops to plant and determines the layout of the garden plot. It decides on any new ideas or methods to try for the new season. Several Master Gardener volunteers help with the planning, planting and maintenance throughout the year. This garden project would not be possible or successful without the hard work and dedication of this group.

The public is welcome and encouraged to stop by and visit the garden’s progress during the growing season at the Ag Research Center.&nbsp;There is signage on the east end of the garden plot concerning composting and a Kansas Garden Guide booklet in the attached mailbox for reference. Gardening questions can be addressed by the Master Gardeners or the Extension Horticulturist by calling the Cottonwood District Extension Office in Hays at 785-628-9430..

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/3/1614966296214.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>The garden, located at the K-State Agricultural Research Center south of Hays, was established in 2016 with funds provided by a grant from the Heartland Community Foundation.&nbsp; The garden area measures approximately 12’ x 20’.&nbsp; The soil was tested, prepared and a fall garden was planted in 2016, with its official debut during Horticulture Night at the Ag Research Center, September 20, 2016. Work resumed during the spring of 2017 when a fence was built and compost bins were constructed out of pallets on the east end of the garden plot. Spring crops of onions, potatoes and beans were planted, as well as perennial crops of rhubarb and asparagus. Other vegetables that have been grown are radishes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, cabbage, carrots and eggplant. The purpose and goal of the Backyard Garden Project is to demonstrate to the general public how to start and maintain a vegetable garden in a smaller space like a backyard area. A composting station is also maintained as part of this project. This garden provides an opportunity for Master Gardeners to show the various crops that can be grown in a small area. It also gives Master Gardeners opportunities to experiment with best practices in fertilization, watering, weeding, mulching and producing and using compost in a garden to optimize crop production. The Backyard Garden committee decides yearly which crops to plant and determines the layout of the garden plot. It decides on any new ideas or methods to try for the new season. Several Master Gardener volunteers help with the planning, planting and maintenance throughout the year. This garden project would not be possible or successful without the hard work and dedication of this group. The public is welcome and encouraged to stop by and visit the garden’s progress during the growing season at the Ag Research Center.&nbsp;There is signage on the east end of the garden plot concerning composting and a Kansas Garden Guide booklet in the attached mailbox for reference. Gardening questions can be addressed by the Master Gardeners or the Extension Horticulturist by calling the Cottonwood District Extension Office in Hays at 785-628-9430..

From the Ellis Co. Master Gardeners: Backyard family demonstration garden

Considering the fact that moles spend most of their time underground, they sure cause quite a mess above the ground.&nbsp;

Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said the surest signs that homeowners have of moles in their yard are the meandering paths or tunnels of upheaved soil, caused by the small mammals foraging for food.&nbsp;

“Some tunnels may be abandoned soon after being built, while others are travel lanes and are used for a longer period of time,” Upham said. “If the soil is dry, moles form mounds of soil (as they search for food), but do not make the meandering paths,” &nbsp;

The result is a traffic-way of lines in the home lawn and other parts of the yard that soon cause soft sections that crumble under foot. That can cause a problem for lawns, in particular, because even though moles don’t feed on plant matter, their movements disrupt roots and uproot small plants.&nbsp;

“The best control method for moles is the use of traps,” Upham said, noting there are three types of traps (harpoon, choker and scissor-jawed) but each takes some time to master.&nbsp;

“Moles use some tunnels more than others,” Upham said. “Use a broomstick or something similar to poke holes in a number of runs. Check a day later to see which runs have been repaired. These are the active runs that should be used to place traps.”&nbsp;

In an active run, Upham suggests excavating the soil, placing the trap and then replacing loose soil. “Secure the trap so that the recoil will not lift the trap out of the ground,” he said. “Make sure the triggering mechanism is in the center of the run.”&nbsp;

To help ensure success, push down two holes on each side of the trap. “Moles should be caught when they try to repair the tunnel,” Upham said. “Move the traps if moles are not caught within three days.”&nbsp;

Aside from traps, Upham said numerous home remedies to control moles have been tried, including chewing gum, noise makers, broken glass, bleaches, windmills and human hair. “None have been found to provide consistent and reliable control,” he said.&nbsp;

“Poison baits also fail to work because moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not vegetable matter,” Upham said. “Even grub control products are ineffective because they do not control earthworms, which are the primary food source for moles.”&nbsp;

More information including examples of how to track an active mole tunnel and set a trap are shown in videos available online from the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/species/moles/index.html">K-State Research and Extension wildlife management program</a>.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Considering the fact that moles spend most of their time underground, they sure cause quite a mess above the ground.&nbsp;Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said the surest signs that homeowners have of moles in their yard are the meandering paths or tunnels of upheaved soil, caused by the small mammals foraging for food.&nbsp;“Some tunnels may be abandoned soon after being built, while others are travel lanes and are used for a longer period of time,” Upham said. “If the soil is dry, moles form mounds of soil (as they search for food), but do not make the meandering paths,” &nbsp;The result is a traffic-way of lines in the home lawn and other parts of the yard that soon cause soft sections that crumble under foot. That can cause a problem for lawns, in particular, because even though moles don’t feed on plant matter, their movements disrupt roots and uproot small plants.&nbsp;“The best control method for moles is the use of traps,” Upham said, noting there are three types of traps (harpoon, choker and scissor-jawed) but each takes some time to master.&nbsp;“Moles use some tunnels more than others,” Upham said. “Use a broomstick or something similar to poke holes in a number of runs. Check a day later to see which runs have been repaired. These are the active runs that should be used to place traps.”&nbsp;In an active run, Upham suggests excavating the soil, placing the trap and then replacing loose soil. “Secure the trap so that the recoil will not lift the trap out of the ground,” he said. “Make sure the triggering mechanism is in the center of the run.”&nbsp;To help ensure success, push down two holes on each side of the trap. “Moles should be caught when they try to repair the tunnel,” Upham said. “Move the traps if moles are not caught within three days.”&nbsp;Aside from traps, Upham said numerous home remedies to control moles have been tried, including chewing gum, noise makers, broken glass, bleaches, windmills and human hair. “None have been found to provide consistent and reliable control,” he said.&nbsp;“Poison baits also fail to work because moles feed on earthworms and grubs, not vegetable matter,” Upham said. “Even grub control products are ineffective because they do not control earthworms, which are the primary food source for moles.”&nbsp;More information including examples of how to track an active mole tunnel and set a trap are shown in videos available online from the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.wildlife.k-state.edu/species/moles/index.html">K-State Research and Extension wildlife management program</a>.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at aboor@ksu.edu or calling 620-793-1910.

BOOR: Mole control

May is an excellent time to fertilize cool-season lawns such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass if they will be irrigated throughout the summer. Non-irrigated lawns often go through a period of summer dormancy because of drought and do not need this fertilization. May is a good time to fertilize because the springtime flush of growth characteristic of these grasses has tapered off, so the fertilizer you apply will be less likely to cause excessive shoot growth than if you fertilized at a full rate in April. Slow-release nitrogen sources are ideal. These nitrogen sources promote controlled growth, which is desirable as the stressful summer weather approaches. Relatively few fertilizers are available to the homeowner supply ALL the nitrogen in the slowly available form. But one such product that is widely available is Milorganite. Other such products available in the retail market include cottonseed meal, alfalfa-based fertilizers, and any other products derived from plants or animals. (Bloodmeal is an exception, and contrary to popular belief, the nitrogen it supplies is quickly available.) These products are all examples of natural organic fertilizers. They typically contain less than 10 percent nitrogen by weight, so compared to most synthetic fertilizers, more product must be applied to get the same amount of nitrogen. Translation: they are more expensive! Apply enough to give the lawn one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For example, if the fertilizer is 6 percent nitrogen by weight, you will need to apply almost 17 pounds of fertilizer product per 1,000 square feet. Summer lawn fertilizers that contain at least a portion of the nitrogen as slow release are fine to use as well. Be sure to follow label directions. If cost is prohibitive, you can use the less expensive quick-release (i.e., soluble) sources, but split the application into two doses as follows: apply enough to give the lawn 0.5 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in May and again in early June. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>May is an excellent time to fertilize cool-season lawns such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass if they will be irrigated throughout the summer. Non-irrigated lawns often go through a period of summer dormancy because of drought and do not need this fertilization. May is a good time to fertilize because the springtime flush of growth characteristic of these grasses has tapered off, so the fertilizer you apply will be less likely to cause excessive shoot growth than if you fertilized at a full rate in April. Slow-release nitrogen sources are ideal. These nitrogen sources promote controlled growth, which is desirable as the stressful summer weather approaches. Relatively few fertilizers are available to the homeowner supply ALL the nitrogen in the slowly available form. But one such product that is widely available is Milorganite. Other such products available in the retail market include cottonseed meal, alfalfa-based fertilizers, and any other products derived from plants or animals. (Bloodmeal is an exception, and contrary to popular belief, the nitrogen it supplies is quickly available.) These products are all examples of natural organic fertilizers. They typically contain less than 10 percent nitrogen by weight, so compared to most synthetic fertilizers, more product must be applied to get the same amount of nitrogen. Translation: they are more expensive! Apply enough to give the lawn one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For example, if the fertilizer is 6 percent nitrogen by weight, you will need to apply almost 17 pounds of fertilizer product per 1,000 square feet. Summer lawn fertilizers that contain at least a portion of the nitrogen as slow release are fine to use as well. Be sure to follow label directions. If cost is prohibitive, you can use the less expensive quick-release (i.e., soluble) sources, but split the application into two doses as follows: apply enough to give the lawn 0.5 lb. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in May and again in early June. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: May is the time to fertilize irrigated cool-season lawns

Learning to identify poison ivy is vital if you wish to avoid the rash that accompanies exposure. &nbsp;Unfortunately, poison ivy can make identification difficult because it occurs in three forms: an erect woody shrub, a groundcover that creeps along the ground, and a woody vine that will climb trees.

When poison ivy climbs, it forms numerous aerial roots that give the vine the appearance of a fuzzy rope. The leaves of poison ivy also vary. Though the compound leaf always has three leaflets, the leaf margins may be toothed, incised, lobed, or smooth. The size of the leaves also can vary, although usually, the middle leaflet is larger than the other two. Also, the middle leaflet is the only one with a long stalk; the other two are closely attached to the petiole (leaf stem). The number of leaves gives rise to the saying: "Leaves of three, let it be!" Poison ivy is often confused with Virginia creeper or Woodbine. Each of these vines, however, has five leaflets rather than three. There are three methods commonly used to eradicate poison ivy. These include pulling or grubbing out the plants by hand, cutting off the vine, and then treating the cut stump or the regrowth, and spraying the plants directly. The method used depends somewhat on the plant's growth form. If the plant is growing as a groundcover, direct spray or grubbing the plant out is often used. If grubbing, wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt. The soil must be moist for grubbing to work well. Wash the clothes and yourself immediately after you finish. It might also be a good idea to rinse the washing machine. If the plant is in the shrub form, the direct spray is the most common control method. If the plant is a woody vine that has climbed a tree, the preferred method is to cut the plant off at the base and treat the sprouts after they emerge. Some triclopyr herbicides also have instructions on treating a freshly cut stump directly. Triclopyr (Brush-B-Gon Poison Ivy Killer, Brush Killer Stump Killer) is most often used for poison ivy control. Other Herbicides that can be used include glyphosate (Roundup, Killzall Weed and Grass Killer, Nutgrass, Poison Ivy, and VineKiller) or dicamba. Poison ivy is tough. Repeat applications may be necessary. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Learning to identify poison ivy is vital if you wish to avoid the rash that accompanies exposure. &nbsp;Unfortunately, poison ivy can make identification difficult because it occurs in three forms: an erect woody shrub, a groundcover that creeps along the ground, and a woody vine that will climb trees.When poison ivy climbs, it forms numerous aerial roots that give the vine the appearance of a fuzzy rope. The leaves of poison ivy also vary. Though the compound leaf always has three leaflets, the leaf margins may be toothed, incised, lobed, or smooth. The size of the leaves also can vary, although usually, the middle leaflet is larger than the other two. Also, the middle leaflet is the only one with a long stalk; the other two are closely attached to the petiole (leaf stem). The number of leaves gives rise to the saying: "Leaves of three, let it be!" Poison ivy is often confused with Virginia creeper or Woodbine. Each of these vines, however, has five leaflets rather than three. There are three methods commonly used to eradicate poison ivy. These include pulling or grubbing out the plants by hand, cutting off the vine, and then treating the cut stump or the regrowth, and spraying the plants directly. The method used depends somewhat on the plant's growth form. If the plant is growing as a groundcover, direct spray or grubbing the plant out is often used. If grubbing, wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt. The soil must be moist for grubbing to work well. Wash the clothes and yourself immediately after you finish. It might also be a good idea to rinse the washing machine. If the plant is in the shrub form, the direct spray is the most common control method. If the plant is a woody vine that has climbed a tree, the preferred method is to cut the plant off at the base and treat the sprouts after they emerge. Some triclopyr herbicides also have instructions on treating a freshly cut stump directly. Triclopyr (Brush-B-Gon Poison Ivy Killer, Brush Killer Stump Killer) is most often used for poison ivy control. Other Herbicides that can be used include glyphosate (Roundup, Killzall Weed and Grass Killer, Nutgrass, Poison Ivy, and VineKiller) or dicamba. Poison ivy is tough. Repeat applications may be necessary. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: Poison ivy identification and control

There are four Cottonwood Extension District Positions that will be on the November ballot. While the election is still over 6 months away, the deadline to file for a position is just around the corner.&nbsp; When the Cottonwood District formed in 2017 our eight-member board was appointed by the County Commissioners in both Barton and Ellis County. So that all positions would not come open at the same time, four members served two-year terms while the other four board members were appointed to serve four-year terms. From now on, all terms are four years in length.

Each of our eight board members have a commitment to create a budget that is reasonable for you, the taxpayer, while still supporting the delivery of valuable Extension education materials for lifelong learners in our district. Extension board member qualifications include:

A more detailed board member position description can be viewed on the KSRE web site.&nbsp;

<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/boardleadership/board-leadership-modules/recruiting-board-and-pdc-members/Extension%2520Board%2520Member%2520Position%2520Description.pdf">https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/boardleadership/board-leadership-modules/recruiting-board-and-pdc-members/Extension%20Board%20Member%20Position%20Description.pdf</a>&nbsp;

My hope is that you have utilized our services in one or many ways. Perhaps Lauren Fick, our district horticulture agent, has provided the answer to a lawn, garden or tree question. Our agriculture and natural resources agents, Stacy Campbell and Alicia Boor, are always ready to field questions about weed control, and research-based information related to crops or livestock. Our programming related to healthy families is covered by Berny Unruh and myself. We have programming in place to help people of all ages improve their lives. And 4-H and other youth in our communities are participating in learning opportunities under the direction of Susan Schlichting and Michelle Beran. Theresa Meis and Brenda Walton provide the office professional duties that keep us connected to you.&nbsp;

If you would like to get involved by running for a position on the Cottonwood Extension District Board, you will need to fill out the paperwork and pay a $20 filing fee at the County Clerks’ office where you reside. The filing deadline is Thursday, June 1st, at noon. The two candidates who receive the most votes will begin their term as soon as the November election results are certified.&nbsp;

Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions related to serving on our Extension Board!

Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District – Great Bend office. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141404420.png" alt="Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>There are four Cottonwood Extension District Positions that will be on the November ballot. While the election is still over 6 months away, the deadline to file for a position is just around the corner.&nbsp; When the Cottonwood District formed in 2017 our eight-member board was appointed by the County Commissioners in both Barton and Ellis County. So that all positions would not come open at the same time, four members served two-year terms while the other four board members were appointed to serve four-year terms. From now on, all terms are four years in length.Each of our eight board members have a commitment to create a budget that is reasonable for you, the taxpayer, while still supporting the delivery of valuable Extension education materials for lifelong learners in our district. Extension board member qualifications include:<ul>
 <li>At least 18 years of age and a resident of the local unit</li><li>Interested in working within the mission of K-State Research and Extension.</li><li>Willing to work closely with the local unit director, regional director and other members of the board.</li><li>Sincere interest in improving the quality of life for local unit residents.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>A more detailed board member position description can be viewed on the KSRE web site.&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/boardleadership/board-leadership-modules/recruiting-board-and-pdc-members/Extension%2520Board%2520Member%2520Position%2520Description.pdf">https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/boardleadership/board-leadership-modules/recruiting-board-and-pdc-members/Extension%20Board%20Member%20Position%20Description.pdf</a>&nbsp;My hope is that you have utilized our services in one or many ways. Perhaps Lauren Fick, our district horticulture agent, has provided the answer to a lawn, garden or tree question. Our agriculture and natural resources agents, Stacy Campbell and Alicia Boor, are always ready to field questions about weed control, and research-based information related to crops or livestock. Our programming related to healthy families is covered by Berny Unruh and myself. We have programming in place to help people of all ages improve their lives. And 4-H and other youth in our communities are participating in learning opportunities under the direction of Susan Schlichting and Michelle Beran. Theresa Meis and Brenda Walton provide the office professional duties that keep us connected to you.&nbsp;If you would like to get involved by running for a position on the Cottonwood Extension District Board, you will need to fill out the paperwork and pay a $20 filing fee at the County Clerks’ office where you reside. The filing deadline is Thursday, June 1st, at noon. The two candidates who receive the most votes will begin their term as soon as the November election results are certified.&nbsp;Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions related to serving on our Extension Board!Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District – Great Bend office. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;

KRUG: Consider serving on Cottonwood Extension board

A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungus disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop. The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (&gt;85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F), and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water. &nbsp;Cultural practices are the first line of defense. 1. Don't plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. Purdue University has a list of blackspot-resistant varieties. 2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works well with roses. 3. Plant roses in sun in areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet. 4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum. If needed, protect foliage with a regular spray program (10- to 14-day schedule) of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (BioAdvanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs, BioAdvanced All-In-One Rose &amp; Flower Care), myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden Fungicide), and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Lawn &amp; Garden Fungicide, Garden Disease Control, others). Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungus disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop. The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (&gt;85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F), and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water. &nbsp;Cultural practices are the first line of defense. 1. Don't plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. Purdue University has a list of blackspot-resistant varieties. 2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works well with roses. 3. Plant roses in sun in areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet. 4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum. If needed, protect foliage with a regular spray program (10- to 14-day schedule) of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (BioAdvanced Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs, BioAdvanced All-In-One Rose &amp; Flower Care), myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden Fungicide), and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Lawn &amp; Garden Fungicide, Garden Disease Control, others). Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Blackspot of roses

The Great Bend Farm and Ranch Expo is coming out to the Expo grounds April 7 to 9. The three-day event will have programs, vendors, and a chance to meet up and see what’s new in farming and ranching. Together, with K-State Research and Extension, we will be giving informative programs, and listen to the various specialists discuss what is new in their fields of study. We will also have a virtual option available for those that are interested in attending virtually. You can contact the office for further details!&nbsp;

On Wednesday, April 7th at 1 PM, join KSRE along with the Great Bend Coop at the Wheat Plot tour. The plot is located north of the Expo grounds at Barton County Road and 50 AVE. Romulo Lollato, K-State Research and Extension’s Wheat and Forage Specialist will be present to discuss the 2021 Wheat plot for Barton County that is on location. He will discuss his current issues and future items to be on the lookout for this year in wheat.&nbsp;&nbsp;He will also be available to answer any questions that producers have.&nbsp;

April 8th at 1 pm will be Hemp research update by Jason Griffin, Professor &amp; Director, John C. Pair Horticultural Center, Kansas State University, Dept. Horticulture &amp; Natural Resources. Jason leads the Hemp research that Kansas State University conducted in 2020 that he will report on as well as give an update on what they will be researching in 2021. He will also be available for questions after his presentation.&nbsp;

On Friday, April 9th&nbsp;at 1 pm, Anthony Zukoff will be in Expo 3 discussing&nbsp;Alfalfa&nbsp;weevil insecticide resistance and some notes on cryptic alfalfa pests. Anthony leads the extension entomology program at the Southwest Research and Extension Center in Garden City.&nbsp;&nbsp;He focuses on all things insect-related with an emphasis on current and emerging pest issues facing crop production in Western Kansas.&nbsp;

Whatever your interests are when it comes to farming, there is a subject and specialist that can help you with information. Our specialists are happy to come out and share the latest information and research to help you be able to succeed at your farm. Join us during the lunch hour at the Great Bend Farm and Ranch show April 7 to 9 for all of K-State Research and Extension’s programming.&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu">aboor@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or calling 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>The Great Bend Farm and Ranch Expo is coming out to the Expo grounds April 7 to 9. The three-day event will have programs, vendors, and a chance to meet up and see what’s new in farming and ranching. Together, with K-State Research and Extension, we will be giving informative programs, and listen to the various specialists discuss what is new in their fields of study. We will also have a virtual option available for those that are interested in attending virtually. You can contact the office for further details!&nbsp;On Wednesday, April 7th at 1 PM, join KSRE along with the Great Bend Coop at the Wheat Plot tour. The plot is located north of the Expo grounds at Barton County Road and 50 AVE. Romulo Lollato, K-State Research and Extension’s Wheat and Forage Specialist will be present to discuss the 2021 Wheat plot for Barton County that is on location. He will discuss his current issues and future items to be on the lookout for this year in wheat.&nbsp;&nbsp;He will also be available to answer any questions that producers have.&nbsp;April 8th at 1 pm will be Hemp research update by Jason Griffin, Professor &amp; Director, John C. Pair Horticultural Center, Kansas State University, Dept. Horticulture &amp; Natural Resources. Jason leads the Hemp research that Kansas State University conducted in 2020 that he will report on as well as give an update on what they will be researching in 2021. He will also be available for questions after his presentation.&nbsp;On Friday, April 9th&nbsp;at 1 pm, Anthony Zukoff will be in Expo 3 discussing&nbsp;Alfalfa&nbsp;weevil insecticide resistance and some notes on cryptic alfalfa pests. Anthony leads the extension entomology program at the Southwest Research and Extension Center in Garden City.&nbsp;&nbsp;He focuses on all things insect-related with an emphasis on current and emerging pest issues facing crop production in Western Kansas.&nbsp;Whatever your interests are when it comes to farming, there is a subject and specialist that can help you with information. Our specialists are happy to come out and share the latest information and research to help you be able to succeed at your farm. Join us during the lunch hour at the Great Bend Farm and Ranch show April 7 to 9 for all of K-State Research and Extension’s programming.&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu">aboor@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or calling 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

BOOR: Great Bend farm and ranch show on the way

We often are asked whether it is good to mow lower in the spring. The answer is yes and no. It doesn’t hurt to mow lower than normal the first mowing or two. 

As a matter of fact, it can actually speed green-up by removing old, dead grass and allowing the soil to warm up more quickly. &nbsp;But the mowing height should be raised to normal after the first or second cutting to discourage crabgrass and encourage deep rooting. Crabgrass seed must have light to germinate, and a high mowing height will help shade the soil. &nbsp;Also, root depth and mowing height are related on upright growing grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass — the higher the height of cut, the deeper the root system. A deeper root system means a more drought-resistant turf. So, how low should you go on the first cutting? On tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, you can mow as low as 1 to 1½ inches. Be careful you don't go so low that you scalp the turf. &nbsp; After that, raise the mowing height for Kentucky bluegrass to 2 to 3 inches but 3 to 3½ inches for tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>We often are asked whether it is good to mow lower in the spring. The answer is yes and no. It doesn’t hurt to mow lower than normal the first mowing or two. As a matter of fact, it can actually speed green-up by removing old, dead grass and allowing the soil to warm up more quickly. &nbsp;But the mowing height should be raised to normal after the first or second cutting to discourage crabgrass and encourage deep rooting. Crabgrass seed must have light to germinate, and a high mowing height will help shade the soil. &nbsp;Also, root depth and mowing height are related on upright growing grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass — the higher the height of cut, the deeper the root system. A deeper root system means a more drought-resistant turf. So, how low should you go on the first cutting? On tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, you can mow as low as 1 to 1½ inches. Be careful you don't go so low that you scalp the turf. &nbsp; After that, raise the mowing height for Kentucky bluegrass to 2 to 3 inches but 3 to 3½ inches for tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: How low should you go?

People often wonder why we recommend seeding cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass in the fall. It would seem that the spring would be the more natural time for seeding because the entire growing season is available for the grass to become established before the turf has to deal with winter. There are a few reasons that tend to make fall seedings more successful.

The soils are warmer in the fall. Warm soils mean less time required for germination and growth, so the grass becomes established more quickly. I have seen tall fescue seeded in the last week of August come up in four days. Now, you had to be on your hands and knees to see it, but it was up. Tall fescue seeded in the spring may take well over a week to come up and the time required to become established is much longer.

Weeds are less of a problem in the fall. The major weed problems in the fall tend to be the broadleaves such as chickweed, henbit, or dandelion. Turf seeded in early September is usually thick enough by the time these broadleaves germinate that often there is not much weed invasion. Even if there is some invasion by broadleaves, the turf should be mature enough by early November that mild broadleaf herbicides can be applied.

In the spring, our major weed problems are the annual grasses such as crabgrass.  Since the spring-seeded turf is slow to mature, there are often thin areas that are easily invaded by these grassy weeds. If this invasion occurs, the weeds are better adapted to our hot, summer conditions than our cool-season grasses and so the weeds tend to take over. The number of chemicals that can be used on young turf is limited, and so these grasses become more of a problem. One of the preemergence herbicides that can be used on young grasses is dithiopyr (Dimension).  It is found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed &amp; Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer and can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination.  

Summer is the hardest time of the year for cool-season grasses, not the winter. Summertime is very difficult because our cool-season grasses do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that our warm-season grasses such as buffalo, zoysia, and Bermuda have. Therefore, they tend to become weakened in the summer which makes them more susceptible to disease and other stresses. Spring-seeded cool-season grasses are less mature and therefore less able to tolerate these stresses.

Seeding cool-season grass in the spring can be successful but is more difficult to pull off than fall seedings. If you have a choice, always opt for seeding cool-season grasses in the fall.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>People often wonder why we recommend seeding cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass in the fall. It would seem that the spring would be the more natural time for seeding because the entire growing season is available for the grass to become established before the turf has to deal with winter. There are a few reasons that tend to make fall seedings more successful.The soils are warmer in the fall. Warm soils mean less time required for germination and growth, so the grass becomes established more quickly. I have seen tall fescue seeded in the last week of August come up in four days. Now, you had to be on your hands and knees to see it, but it was up. Tall fescue seeded in the spring may take well over a week to come up and the time required to become established is much longer.Weeds are less of a problem in the fall. The major weed problems in the fall tend to be the broadleaves such as chickweed, henbit, or dandelion. Turf seeded in early September is usually thick enough by the time these broadleaves germinate that often there is not much weed invasion. Even if there is some invasion by broadleaves, the turf should be mature enough by early November that mild broadleaf herbicides can be applied.In the spring, our major weed problems are the annual grasses such as crabgrass. Since the spring-seeded turf is slow to mature, there are often thin areas that are easily invaded by these grassy weeds. If this invasion occurs, the weeds are better adapted to our hot, summer conditions than our cool-season grasses and so the weeds tend to take over. The number of chemicals that can be used on young turf is limited, and so these grasses become more of a problem. One of the preemergence herbicides that can be used on young grasses is dithiopyr (Dimension). It is found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed &amp; Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer and can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Summer is the hardest time of the year for cool-season grasses, not the winter. Summertime is very difficult because our cool-season grasses do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that our warm-season grasses such as buffalo, zoysia, and Bermuda have. Therefore, they tend to become weakened in the summer which makes them more susceptible to disease and other stresses. Spring-seeded cool-season grasses are less mature and therefore less able to tolerate these stresses.Seeding cool-season grass in the spring can be successful but is more difficult to pull off than fall seedings. If you have a choice, always opt for seeding cool-season grasses in the fall.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Why seeding cool-season grasses in spring is difficult

Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) are two closely related plants that can become weed problems in home lawns and landscapes. Though wild garlic and wild onion look much alike, each has an odor that is characterized by its name – wild garlic smells like garlic and wild onion smells like onion. These plants are perennials that can also reproduce by seeds and aerial bulbils. Bulbils form at the top of the stem and are oval and smooth. 

Wild garlic also reproduces by underground bulb offsets, but wild onion does not. Both species produce a clump of plants that is unsightly in a lawn. Control recommendations are the same though we now have a couple of new additions to our arsenal.​Traditionally we have used 2,4-D or 2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba (i.e., Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gon). These products should be sprayed during March on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Newer products are Weed Free Zone and Speed Zone. Both are combination products that contain a formulation of Trimec plus carfentrazone. These will give a quicker response at cooler temperatures than 50 degrees. A spreader-sticker added to the spray should help any of these products be more effective. At times, the spreader-sticker is already mixed into the weed killer; no additional amount is needed. These herbicides are also effective on dandelions. Unfortunately, we have not had a good chemical control for Star-of-Bethlehem. The best products we had were Coolpower (31.3% control) and Turflon Ester (23.8% control). Coolpower is a commercial only product, but Turflon Ester is available to both commercial and homeowner users. But research out of Virginia Tech has improved our outlook. Scientists there did a study in which they gained 96% control of Star-of-Bethlehem one month after treatment by using Quicksilver, a formulation of carfentrazone at the rate of 4 fl. oz/A. Quicksilver is a commercial only product, and therefore is not readily available to homeowners. However, both Speed Zone and Weed Free Zone contain carfentrazone and would certainly be worth a try if you have this troublesome plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by email at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) are two closely related plants that can become weed problems in home lawns and landscapes. Though wild garlic and wild onion look much alike, each has an odor that is characterized by its name – wild garlic smells like garlic and wild onion smells like onion. These plants are perennials that can also reproduce by seeds and aerial bulbils. Bulbils form at the top of the stem and are oval and smooth. Wild garlic also reproduces by underground bulb offsets, but wild onion does not. Both species produce a clump of plants that is unsightly in a lawn. Control recommendations are the same though we now have a couple of new additions to our arsenal.​Traditionally we have used 2,4-D or 2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba (i.e., Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gon). These products should be sprayed during March on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Newer products are Weed Free Zone and Speed Zone. Both are combination products that contain a formulation of Trimec plus carfentrazone. These will give a quicker response at cooler temperatures than 50 degrees. A spreader-sticker added to the spray should help any of these products be more effective. At times, the spreader-sticker is already mixed into the weed killer; no additional amount is needed. These herbicides are also effective on dandelions. Unfortunately, we have not had a good chemical control for Star-of-Bethlehem. The best products we had were Coolpower (31.3% control) and Turflon Ester (23.8% control). Coolpower is a commercial only product, but Turflon Ester is available to both commercial and homeowner users. But research out of Virginia Tech has improved our outlook. Scientists there did a study in which they gained 96% control of Star-of-Bethlehem one month after treatment by using Quicksilver, a formulation of carfentrazone at the rate of 4 fl. oz/A. Quicksilver is a commercial only product, and therefore is not readily available to homeowners. However, both Speed Zone and Weed Free Zone contain carfentrazone and would certainly be worth a try if you have this troublesome plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by email at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Wild onion, wild garlic, and Star-of-Bethlehem

Grassy sandbur is the “sticker” plant that looks like grass. It will often invade thin lawns, especially in dry years. Therefore, the best control for this weed is a thick, healthy lawn.

However, if your lawn is thin this spring and grassy sandbur was a problem last year, use a preemergence herbicide before the sandbur comes up. However, not all preemergence herbicides are effective. The three products that can help minimize grassy sandbur are oryzalin, pendimethalin, and prodiamine. Oryzalin is sold under the trade name Weed Impede. &nbsp; It can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Oryzalin is also sold as a combination product with benefin as Green Light Amaze. &nbsp;As with oryzalin alone, it can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Apply Amaze or an oryzalin product about April 15 when redbud trees approach full bloom. Pendimethalin is sold commercially as Pendulum as well as several other names. On the homeowner side, it is sold as Scotts Halts. Pendimethalin is best applied as a split application with the first half applied about April 15 and the second about June 1. Alternatively, make the first application when redbud trees approach full bloom and the second six weeks later. Prodiamine is sold under the commercial name of Barricade. &nbsp;It is also sold as a homeowner product Howard Johnson Crabgrass Control Plus with 0.37 Prodiamine &nbsp;00-00-07. &nbsp;It can be used on all our common lawn grasses. Apply as is done for oryzalin, about April 15 or when redbud trees approach full bloom. Only one application is needed per year. None of the “weed preventers” will give complete control but each should help. Quinclorac (Drive) can provide some postemergence control especially if the sandbur is in the seedling stage. Quinclorac is also found in several combination products that control both broadleaf weeds and crabgrass such as one of the following. • Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control • BioAdvanced All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer • Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus • Fertilome Weed Out with Crabgrass Killer • Trimec Crabgrass Plus Lawn Weed Killer • Bonide Weed Beater Plus Crabgrass &amp; Broadleaf Weed Killer • Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer Again, the best control for grassy sandbur is a healthy, thick lawn. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Grassy sandbur is the “sticker” plant that looks like grass. It will often invade thin lawns, especially in dry years. Therefore, the best control for this weed is a thick, healthy lawn. However, if your lawn is thin this spring and grassy sandbur was a problem last year, use a preemergence herbicide before the sandbur comes up. However, not all preemergence herbicides are effective. The three products that can help minimize grassy sandbur are oryzalin, pendimethalin, and prodiamine. Oryzalin is sold under the trade name Weed Impede. &nbsp; It can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Oryzalin is also sold as a combination product with benefin as Green Light Amaze. &nbsp;As with oryzalin alone, it can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Apply Amaze or an oryzalin product about April 15 when redbud trees approach full bloom. Pendimethalin is sold commercially as Pendulum as well as several other names. On the homeowner side, it is sold as Scotts Halts. Pendimethalin is best applied as a split application with the first half applied about April 15 and the second about June 1. Alternatively, make the first application when redbud trees approach full bloom and the second six weeks later. Prodiamine is sold under the commercial name of Barricade. &nbsp;It is also sold as a homeowner product Howard Johnson Crabgrass Control Plus with 0.37 Prodiamine &nbsp;00-00-07. &nbsp;It can be used on all our common lawn grasses. Apply as is done for oryzalin, about April 15 or when redbud trees approach full bloom. Only one application is needed per year. None of the “weed preventers” will give complete control but each should help. Quinclorac (Drive) can provide some postemergence control especially if the sandbur is in the seedling stage. Quinclorac is also found in several combination products that control both broadleaf weeds and crabgrass such as one of the following. • Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control • BioAdvanced All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer • Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus • Fertilome Weed Out with Crabgrass Killer • Trimec Crabgrass Plus Lawn Weed Killer • Bonide Weed Beater Plus Crabgrass &amp; Broadleaf Weed Killer • Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer Again, the best control for grassy sandbur is a healthy, thick lawn. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Controlling grassy sandbur 'stickers'

Crabgrass preventers are another name for pre-emergence herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants. Many people have a somewhat foggy idea of how they work and assume they kill the weed seed. &nbsp;Such is not the case. They do not kill the seed or even keep the seed from germinating but rather kill the young plant after it germinates. &nbsp;Therefore, they do not prevent germination but prevent emergence. Crabgrass preventers are just that – preventers. With few exceptions they have no effect on existing crabgrass plants, so they must be applied before germination. Additionally, preventers do not last forever once applied to the soil. &nbsp;Microorganisms and natural processes begin to gradually break them down soon after they are applied. If some products are applied too early, they may have lost much of their strength by the time they are needed. Most crabgrass preventers are fairly ineffective after about 60 days, but there is considerable variation among products. (Dimension and Barricade last longer. See below.)​

For most of Kansas, crabgrass typically begins to germinate around May 1 or a little later. April 15 is normally a good target date for applying preventer because it gives active ingredients time to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. &nbsp;Even better, base timing on the bloom of ornamental plants. The Eastern Redbud tree is a good choice for this purpose. When the trees in your area approach full bloom, apply crabgrass preventer. A follow-up application will be needed about 8 weeks later unless you are using Dimension or Barricade. Products that do require a follow-up application include pendimethalin (Scotts Halts) and Team (Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control). Dimension and Barricade are the only two products that give season-long control of crabgrass from a single application. In fact, they can be applied much earlier than April 15 and still have sufficient residual strength to last the season. Barricade can even be applied in the fall for crabgrass control the next season. Dimension can be applied as early as March 1. Because of the added flexibility in timing, these products are favorites of lawn care companies who have many customers to service in the spring. Though Dimension is usually not applied as early as Barricade, it is the herbicide of choice if it must be applied later than recommended. It is the exception to the rule that pre-emergence herbicides do not kill existing weeds. Dimension can kill crabgrass as long as it is young (two- to three-leaf stage). Dimension is also the best choice if treating a lawn that was planted late last fall.

Normally a pre-emergence herbicide is not recommended unless the lawn has been mowed two to four times. But Dimension is kind to young tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass seedlings and some formulations can be applied as early as two weeks after the first sign of germination. However, read the label of the specific product you wish to use to ensure that this use is allowed. Lawns established in the fall can be safely treated with Dimension the following spring even if they have not been mowed. Note that products containing Dimension and Barricade may use the common name rather than the trade name. The common chemical name for Dimension is dithiopyr and for Barricade is prodiamine. Remember, when using any pesticide, read the label and follow instructions carefully. We recommend crabgrass preventers be applied before fertilizer so that the grass isn’t encouraged to put on too much growth too early. However, it may be difficult to find products that contain preemergents without fertilizer. Those that don’t contain fertilizer are listed below. I didn’t find any products containing Barricade that did not also have a fertilizer. If anyone knows of other products that should be listed, let us know and we will publish them in a later newsletter. Pendimethalin&nbsp; &nbsp;- Scotts Halts Team (Benefin + Trifluralin)&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control Dimension&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Turf &amp; Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper&nbsp; &nbsp;- Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer&nbsp; &nbsp;- Green Light Crabgrass Preventer Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Crabgrass preventers are another name for pre-emergence herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants. Many people have a somewhat foggy idea of how they work and assume they kill the weed seed. &nbsp;Such is not the case. They do not kill the seed or even keep the seed from germinating but rather kill the young plant after it germinates. &nbsp;Therefore, they do not prevent germination but prevent emergence. Crabgrass preventers are just that – preventers. With few exceptions they have no effect on existing crabgrass plants, so they must be applied before germination. Additionally, preventers do not last forever once applied to the soil. &nbsp;Microorganisms and natural processes begin to gradually break them down soon after they are applied. If some products are applied too early, they may have lost much of their strength by the time they are needed. Most crabgrass preventers are fairly ineffective after about 60 days, but there is considerable variation among products. (Dimension and Barricade last longer. See below.)​For most of Kansas, crabgrass typically begins to germinate around May 1 or a little later. April 15 is normally a good target date for applying preventer because it gives active ingredients time to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. &nbsp;Even better, base timing on the bloom of ornamental plants. The Eastern Redbud tree is a good choice for this purpose. When the trees in your area approach full bloom, apply crabgrass preventer. A follow-up application will be needed about 8 weeks later unless you are using Dimension or Barricade. Products that do require a follow-up application include pendimethalin (Scotts Halts) and Team (Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control). Dimension and Barricade are the only two products that give season-long control of crabgrass from a single application. In fact, they can be applied much earlier than April 15 and still have sufficient residual strength to last the season. Barricade can even be applied in the fall for crabgrass control the next season. Dimension can be applied as early as March 1. Because of the added flexibility in timing, these products are favorites of lawn care companies who have many customers to service in the spring. Though Dimension is usually not applied as early as Barricade, it is the herbicide of choice if it must be applied later than recommended. It is the exception to the rule that pre-emergence herbicides do not kill existing weeds. Dimension can kill crabgrass as long as it is young (two- to three-leaf stage). Dimension is also the best choice if treating a lawn that was planted late last fall. Normally a pre-emergence herbicide is not recommended unless the lawn has been mowed two to four times. But Dimension is kind to young tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass seedlings and some formulations can be applied as early as two weeks after the first sign of germination. However, read the label of the specific product you wish to use to ensure that this use is allowed. Lawns established in the fall can be safely treated with Dimension the following spring even if they have not been mowed. Note that products containing Dimension and Barricade may use the common name rather than the trade name. The common chemical name for Dimension is dithiopyr and for Barricade is prodiamine. Remember, when using any pesticide, read the label and follow instructions carefully. We recommend crabgrass preventers be applied before fertilizer so that the grass isn’t encouraged to put on too much growth too early. However, it may be difficult to find products that contain preemergents without fertilizer. Those that don’t contain fertilizer are listed below. I didn’t find any products containing Barricade that did not also have a fertilizer. If anyone knows of other products that should be listed, let us know and we will publish them in a later newsletter. Pendimethalin&nbsp; &nbsp;- Scotts Halts Team (Benefin + Trifluralin)&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control Dimension&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Turf &amp; Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper&nbsp; &nbsp;- Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer&nbsp; &nbsp;- Green Light Crabgrass Preventer Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Applying crabgrass preventers

One of the most neglected tools for vegetable gardeners is a soil thermometer. Soil temperature is a much better measure of when to plant than air temperature or the calendar. Planting when soil is too cool can cause some seeds to rot and transplants to sit there. A number of vegetables can germinate and grow at cool temperatures. For example, peas will germinate and grow well at a soil temperature of 40 F. Though lettuce, parsnips, and spinach can sprout at a soil temperature of 35 F, they prefer at least 45 F for best germination and growth. &nbsp;Radishes also do well at a soil temperature of 45 F. &nbsp;Even if the seeds of these cool-season crops are planted below the recommended soil temperature, the seed will rarely rot. Warm-season crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn, and beans are different. &nbsp;They prefer at least 55 F for germination (or transplanting), but others such as peppers, cucumbers, melons, and sweet potatoes need it even warmer, about 60 F. &nbsp;If planted when soils are too cool, they likely will rot before germinating. Taking soil temperature accurately is a bit of a science. First, use a metal soil thermometer, which is sold in many garden, auto parts, and hardware stores. Take temperature 2.5 inches deep at about 10 to 11 a.m. Temperature variations throughout the day and night affect soil temperature, with the lowest readings after dawn and the warmest around mid-afternoon. The late-morning reading gives a good average temperature. If taking the soil temperature at this time is not practical, take a reading before you leave for work and a second when you return home and use the average. Also be sure to get a consistent reading for four to five days in a row before planting, and make sure a cold snap is not predicted.An excellent guide sheet on this subject is published by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System and is titled “Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.” It can be found <a href="https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/12281/soiltemps.pdf">HERE</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>One of the most neglected tools for vegetable gardeners is a soil thermometer. Soil temperature is a much better measure of when to plant than air temperature or the calendar. Planting when soil is too cool can cause some seeds to rot and transplants to sit there. A number of vegetables can germinate and grow at cool temperatures. For example, peas will germinate and grow well at a soil temperature of 40 F. Though lettuce, parsnips, and spinach can sprout at a soil temperature of 35 F, they prefer at least 45 F for best germination and growth. &nbsp;Radishes also do well at a soil temperature of 45 F. &nbsp;Even if the seeds of these cool-season crops are planted below the recommended soil temperature, the seed will rarely rot. Warm-season crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn, and beans are different. &nbsp;They prefer at least 55 F for germination (or transplanting), but others such as peppers, cucumbers, melons, and sweet potatoes need it even warmer, about 60 F. &nbsp;If planted when soils are too cool, they likely will rot before germinating. Taking soil temperature accurately is a bit of a science. First, use a metal soil thermometer, which is sold in many garden, auto parts, and hardware stores. Take temperature 2.5 inches deep at about 10 to 11 a.m. Temperature variations throughout the day and night affect soil temperature, with the lowest readings after dawn and the warmest around mid-afternoon. The late-morning reading gives a good average temperature. If taking the soil temperature at this time is not practical, take a reading before you leave for work and a second when you return home and use the average. Also be sure to get a consistent reading for four to five days in a row before planting, and make sure a cold snap is not predicted.An excellent guide sheet on this subject is published by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System and is titled “Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.” It can be found <a href="https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/12281/soiltemps.pdf">HERE</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Soil temperature and vegetables 

Gardeners are eager to get out and do something in the landscape this time of year. One chore that can be taken care of now is pruning certain shrubs. Often, gardeners approach pruning with trepidation, but it is not as difficult as it may seem. Remember, not all shrubs need to be pruned (i.e., witch hazel), and certain shrubs, which will be identified later, should not be pruned this time of year. Shrubs are pruned to maintain or reduce the size, rejuvenate growth, or to remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches. Deciduous shrubs are those that lose their leaves each winter. Evergreen shrubs maintain foliage all year and include yews and junipers. Deciduous shrubs are placed into three groups:&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower in the spring on wood produced last year.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower later in the year on current seasons’ growth; and&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that may produce flowers, but those flowers are of little ornamental value.

Shrubs that flower in the spring should not be pruned until immediately after flowering. &nbsp;Though pruning earlier will not harm the health of the plant, the flowering display will be reduced. Examples of these types of plants include forsythia, lilac, and mock orange. Shrubs that bloom on current seasons’ growth or that do not produce ornamental flowers are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Examples include Rose-of-Sharon, pyracantha, Bumald spirea, and Japanese spirea. Pruning during the spring allows wounds to heal quickly without threat from insects or disease. There is no need to treat pruning cuts with paints or sealers. In fact, some of these products may slow healing. There are three basic methods used in pruning shrubs: thinning, heading back, and rejuvenating. Thinning is used to thin out branches from a shrub that is too dense. It is accomplished by removing most of the inward growing twigs by cutting them back to a larger branch. On multi-stemmed shrubs, the oldest canes may be removed entirely. Heading back is done by removing the end of a branch by cutting it back to a bud and is used for either reducing height or keeping a shrub compact. Branches are not cut back to a uniform height because this results in a "witches-broom" effect.​Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large, with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes. All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This is not recommended for all shrubs but does work well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, little leaf mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Gardeners are eager to get out and do something in the landscape this time of year. One chore that can be taken care of now is pruning certain shrubs. Often, gardeners approach pruning with trepidation, but it is not as difficult as it may seem. Remember, not all shrubs need to be pruned (i.e., witch hazel), and certain shrubs, which will be identified later, should not be pruned this time of year. Shrubs are pruned to maintain or reduce the size, rejuvenate growth, or to remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches. Deciduous shrubs are those that lose their leaves each winter. Evergreen shrubs maintain foliage all year and include yews and junipers. Deciduous shrubs are placed into three groups:&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower in the spring on wood produced last year.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower later in the year on current seasons’ growth; and&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that may produce flowers, but those flowers are of little ornamental value.Shrubs that flower in the spring should not be pruned until immediately after flowering. &nbsp;Though pruning earlier will not harm the health of the plant, the flowering display will be reduced. Examples of these types of plants include forsythia, lilac, and mock orange. Shrubs that bloom on current seasons’ growth or that do not produce ornamental flowers are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Examples include Rose-of-Sharon, pyracantha, Bumald spirea, and Japanese spirea. Pruning during the spring allows wounds to heal quickly without threat from insects or disease. There is no need to treat pruning cuts with paints or sealers. In fact, some of these products may slow healing. There are three basic methods used in pruning shrubs: thinning, heading back, and rejuvenating. Thinning is used to thin out branches from a shrub that is too dense. It is accomplished by removing most of the inward growing twigs by cutting them back to a larger branch. On multi-stemmed shrubs, the oldest canes may be removed entirely. Heading back is done by removing the end of a branch by cutting it back to a bud and is used for either reducing height or keeping a shrub compact. Branches are not cut back to a uniform height because this results in a "witches-broom" effect.​Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large, with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes. All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This is not recommended for all shrubs but does work well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, little leaf mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Pruning deciduous shrubs

The following suggestions are for cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss are warm-season grasses and require a different maintenance regime. A warm-season grass calendar will be covered in a later article. MarchSpot treat broadleaf weeds if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness. April Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products mentioned in this calendar. Remember that a good, thick lawn is the best weed prevention and may be all that is needed. May Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce the effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in. June through Mid-July Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application. These two products normally provide season-long control with a single application. Remember to water it in. If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid during the first half of July. This works to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with 1/4" of water. Late-July through August If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid is effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops. September Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer. November&nbsp; Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours reduces effectiveness. Use label rates for all products! Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>The following suggestions are for cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss are warm-season grasses and require a different maintenance regime. A warm-season grass calendar will be covered in a later article. MarchSpot treat broadleaf weeds if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness. April Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products mentioned in this calendar. Remember that a good, thick lawn is the best weed prevention and may be all that is needed. May Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce the effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in. June through Mid-July Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application. These two products normally provide season-long control with a single application. Remember to water it in. If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid during the first half of July. This works to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with 1/4" of water. Late-July through August If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid is effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops. September Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer. November&nbsp; Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours reduces effectiveness. Use label rates for all products! Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: Lawn calendar for cool-season grasses

Everyone knows that someone stranded in the ocean should not drink the water. The salt content of that water will make a bad situation worse. &nbsp;What many people don’t realize is that this same principle can harm plants. Fertilizers are salts or are converted to salts before plant take-up. They must be salts in order for the plant roots to absorb them. &nbsp;However, salt levels can build up over time and eventually may harm plant roots leading to scorched leaves and unhealthy plants. Though this can happen under field conditions, especially in low rainfall areas, it is particularly critical with houseplants. Houseplants have a certain soil volume that doesn’t change until a plant is repotted. Salt build-up can be a crucial concern especially if the houseplants are fertilized so heavily that the plants can’t use all the nutrients and fertilizer salts build-up. &nbsp;This is especially common in winter when houseplants do not use much fertilizer due to low levels of light.​Leaching an overabundance of salts can be an important practice to ensure the health of our houseplants.

Leaching is not a complicated or difficult process. It consists of adding enough water to wash out excess salts.How much water is enough? Add the amount of water that would equal twice the volume of the pot. This, of course, would need to be done outside or in a bathtub or sink. Water must be added slowly so that it doesn’t overflow the rim of the pot. If salt has formed a crust on the surface of the soil, remove it but don’t take more than 1/4 inch of the underlying media. This may also be a good time to repot the plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Everyone knows that someone stranded in the ocean should not drink the water. The salt content of that water will make a bad situation worse. &nbsp;What many people don’t realize is that this same principle can harm plants. Fertilizers are salts or are converted to salts before plant take-up. They must be salts in order for the plant roots to absorb them. &nbsp;However, salt levels can build up over time and eventually may harm plant roots leading to scorched leaves and unhealthy plants. Though this can happen under field conditions, especially in low rainfall areas, it is particularly critical with houseplants. Houseplants have a certain soil volume that doesn’t change until a plant is repotted. Salt build-up can be a crucial concern especially if the houseplants are fertilized so heavily that the plants can’t use all the nutrients and fertilizer salts build-up. &nbsp;This is especially common in winter when houseplants do not use much fertilizer due to low levels of light.​Leaching an overabundance of salts can be an important practice to ensure the health of our houseplants. Leaching is not a complicated or difficult process. It consists of adding enough water to wash out excess salts.How much water is enough? Add the amount of water that would equal twice the volume of the pot. This, of course, would need to be done outside or in a bathtub or sink. Water must be added slowly so that it doesn’t overflow the rim of the pot. If salt has formed a crust on the surface of the soil, remove it but don’t take more than 1/4 inch of the underlying media. This may also be a good time to repot the plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Leaching houseplants 

Severe winter weather is not only hard on people but can be a life and death struggle for birds. Though birds also require water and shelter, food is often the resource most lacking during cold weather. Many different bird food mixes are available because various species often prefer different grains. However, there is one seed that has more universal appeal than any other: black oil sunflower. If you are new to the bird-feeding game, make sure there is a high percentage of this seed in your mix. White proso millet is second in popularity and is the favorite of dark-eyed juncos and other sparrows as well as the red-winged blackbird. As you become more interested in bird feeding, you may want to use more than one feeder to attract specific species of birds. Following is a list of bird species with the grains they prefer.&nbsp;

• Cardinal, evening grosbeak, and most finch species – sunflower seeds, all types. • Rufous-sided towhee – white proso millet. • Dark-eyed junco – white and red proso millet, canary seed, finely cracked corn. • Many sparrow species – white and red proso millet. • Bluejay – peanut kernels and sunflower seeds of all types. • Chickadee and tufted titmouse – peanut kernels, oil (black), and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-breasted nuthatch – oil (black) and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Brown thrasher – hulled and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-winged blackbird – white and red proso millet plus German (golden) millet. • Mourning dove – oil (black) sunflower seeds, white and red proso plus German (golden)millet.

Extended cold periods can also make water unavailable. A heated birdbath can be a tremendous draw for birds during times when all other water is frozen. Energy use is usually less than what most people expect IF the heater has a built-in thermostat. If you would like more information, Chuck Otte, Agriculture Extension Agent for Geary County has a series of backyard birding guides at<a href="http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm">http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm</a>

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Severe winter weather is not only hard on people but can be a life and death struggle for birds. Though birds also require water and shelter, food is often the resource most lacking during cold weather. Many different bird food mixes are available because various species often prefer different grains. However, there is one seed that has more universal appeal than any other: black oil sunflower. If you are new to the bird-feeding game, make sure there is a high percentage of this seed in your mix. White proso millet is second in popularity and is the favorite of dark-eyed juncos and other sparrows as well as the red-winged blackbird. As you become more interested in bird feeding, you may want to use more than one feeder to attract specific species of birds. Following is a list of bird species with the grains they prefer.&nbsp;• Cardinal, evening grosbeak, and most finch species – sunflower seeds, all types. • Rufous-sided towhee – white proso millet. • Dark-eyed junco – white and red proso millet, canary seed, finely cracked corn. • Many sparrow species – white and red proso millet. • Bluejay – peanut kernels and sunflower seeds of all types. • Chickadee and tufted titmouse – peanut kernels, oil (black), and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-breasted nuthatch – oil (black) and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Brown thrasher – hulled and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-winged blackbird – white and red proso millet plus German (golden) millet. • Mourning dove – oil (black) sunflower seeds, white and red proso plus German (golden)millet.Extended cold periods can also make water unavailable. A heated birdbath can be a tremendous draw for birds during times when all other water is frozen. Energy use is usually less than what most people expect IF the heater has a built-in thermostat. If you would like more information, Chuck Otte, Agriculture Extension Agent for Geary County has a series of backyard birding guides at<a href="http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm">http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm</a> Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Bird feeding

Miniature roses are dwarf versions of roses including the classic hybrid teas. Though they are much smaller (12 to15 inches tall or less), they are surprisingly tough and can be planted outside where they will survive our Kansas winters if mulched. However, many gardeners like to grow the miniatures indoors where they can enjoy them during the drab winter months. Miniature roses grown as houseplants have specific requirements. For long-lasting flowers, air should be moist with a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent preferred though 40 percent is adequate. Placing the pots on a tray that holds moist pebbles will help provide the humidity needed.Like most plants, roses need a lot of light to flower. Though miniature roses will survive in a south window, many people will supplement available light with fluorescent lamps. Timers can be used to automatically turn the lights on and off. Providing 14 hours of light per day will be plenty for roses to grow and flower. Lights are normally spaced 3 to 4 inches above the tops of the plants.

The most serious pest of these plants indoors is spider mites. These mites are very small but can devastate miniature roses. They like dry, warm conditions. Maintaining adequate relative humidity levels and washing the plants once a week in tepid water will help prevent problems. If mites do develop, try using an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (2 percent rate) for control. The horticultural oil will be more effective than the soap. Be sure to spray or wash the entire plant including the underside of the leaves so that all mites are contacted.

Miniature roses can be placed outdoors during the summer to take advantage of higher light levels. Do not place the plant in the full sun immediately but gradually grant less light over a period of several weeks. Pots sunk in the ground will not need to be watered as often as those exposed. Turn the pot 180 degrees every couple of weeks to break off any roots that escape the pot and move into the underlying soil.&nbsp;

Miniature roses are not the easiest plants to grow as houseplants but can be well worth the effort required. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Miniature roses are dwarf versions of roses including the classic hybrid teas. Though they are much smaller (12 to15 inches tall or less), they are surprisingly tough and can be planted outside where they will survive our Kansas winters if mulched. However, many gardeners like to grow the miniatures indoors where they can enjoy them during the drab winter months. Miniature roses grown as houseplants have specific requirements. For long-lasting flowers, air should be moist with a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent preferred though 40 percent is adequate. Placing the pots on a tray that holds moist pebbles will help provide the humidity needed.Like most plants, roses need a lot of light to flower. Though miniature roses will survive in a south window, many people will supplement available light with fluorescent lamps. Timers can be used to automatically turn the lights on and off. Providing 14 hours of light per day will be plenty for roses to grow and flower. Lights are normally spaced 3 to 4 inches above the tops of the plants.The most serious pest of these plants indoors is spider mites. These mites are very small but can devastate miniature roses. They like dry, warm conditions. Maintaining adequate relative humidity levels and washing the plants once a week in tepid water will help prevent problems. If mites do develop, try using an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (2 percent rate) for control. The horticultural oil will be more effective than the soap. Be sure to spray or wash the entire plant including the underside of the leaves so that all mites are contacted.Miniature roses can be placed outdoors during the summer to take advantage of higher light levels. Do not place the plant in the full sun immediately but gradually grant less light over a period of several weeks. Pots sunk in the ground will not need to be watered as often as those exposed. Turn the pot 180 degrees every couple of weeks to break off any roots that escape the pot and move into the underlying soil.&nbsp;Miniature roses are not the easiest plants to grow as houseplants but can be well worth the effort required. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

FICK: Miniature roses

Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall, 70, passed away
 Jan. 13, 2021, in Mesa, Ariz. with family at her side. She was born Dec.
 8, 1950, in Leavenworth, Kan., the daughter of Marvin and Bessie 
(Poole) Murphy.

She graduated from Park Hill High School in 1968 and on Oct. 30, 
1969, she married John Dale Crandall in Kansas City, Mo. John and Glenda
 lived in the Kansas City area a few more years before moving to the 
frontier of Alaska in 1978 where they owned and operated Willow Creek 
Grocery. Their son, Jacob, was born in Alaska. After returning to 
Missouri, Glenda worked for many years as a Product Manager for Z 
International, living in the Kansas City area and later in rural 
Sullivan County, Mo. Upon retirement, she and John moved to Kearney, Mo.

Glenda is preceded in death by her parents Marvin and Bessie, and her
 husband, John. She is survived by her son Jacob Crandall and wife 
Abigail of Hays, Kan. Other survivors include: sister Brenda Martin, 
Farley, Mo.; sister Beth Bernard, Fayetteville, Ark.; brother Melvin 
(Judy) Murphy of Grandview, Mo., along with numerous nieces and nephews.

Glenda will be remembered by all for her ability to brighten up any 
room with her smile and engage people with her stories. She was well 
known for her generous nature, kindness, and compassion for others. 
Glenda loved to ensure her friends and family were well cared for and 
enjoyed being involved with her church families by decorating, providing
 flowers, and cooking/serving meals in her communities. Her hobbies 
included creating beautiful quilts, horticulture, boating, traveling for
 any adventure, and taking care of her “boys.” She was also very 
involved with her son’s activities throughout high school, college and 
into his married/professional life.Most recently, Glenda lived in 
Blockton, Iowa and enjoyed “snow-birding” in Arizona during the winter 
months.

Visitation will be Friday, Jan. 22, 2021, from 3p.m. to 6p.m., and 
funeral services Saturday, Jan. 23, 2021, at 10a.m., both at Park Lawn 
Northland Chapel, Liberty, Mo. Burial to follow at Second Creek 
Cemetery, Platte County, Mo.

Memorials are suggested to Blockton Christian Church, Blockton, Iowa in care of the funeral home.

Due to COVID-19 concerns if you have a cough, fever or are not 
feeling well, you may share a message with the family or sign an online 
guest book via www.parklawnfunerals.com. Services will be live streamed 
by visiting Glenda's obituary at upcoming services/view service times at
 www.parklawnfunerals.com . Social distancing and wearing masks is 
requested by the family at the visitation and funeral services. 
Arrangements: Park Lawn Northland Chapel (816) 781-8228.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/1/1611254116635.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall, 70, passed away
 Jan. 13, 2021, in Mesa, Ariz. with family at her side. She was born Dec.
 8, 1950, in Leavenworth, Kan., the daughter of Marvin and Bessie 
(Poole) Murphy.She graduated from Park Hill High School in 1968 and on Oct. 30, 
1969, she married John Dale Crandall in Kansas City, Mo. John and Glenda
 lived in the Kansas City area a few more years before moving to the 
frontier of Alaska in 1978 where they owned and operated Willow Creek 
Grocery. Their son, Jacob, was born in Alaska. After returning to 
Missouri, Glenda worked for many years as a Product Manager for Z 
International, living in the Kansas City area and later in rural 
Sullivan County, Mo. Upon retirement, she and John moved to Kearney, Mo.Glenda is preceded in death by her parents Marvin and Bessie, and her
 husband, John. She is survived by her son Jacob Crandall and wife 
Abigail of Hays, Kan. Other survivors include: sister Brenda Martin, 
Farley, Mo.; sister Beth Bernard, Fayetteville, Ark.; brother Melvin 
(Judy) Murphy of Grandview, Mo., along with numerous nieces and nephews.Glenda will be remembered by all for her ability to brighten up any 
room with her smile and engage people with her stories. She was well 
known for her generous nature, kindness, and compassion for others. 
Glenda loved to ensure her friends and family were well cared for and 
enjoyed being involved with her church families by decorating, providing
 flowers, and cooking/serving meals in her communities. Her hobbies 
included creating beautiful quilts, horticulture, boating, traveling for
 any adventure, and taking care of her “boys.” She was also very 
involved with her son’s activities throughout high school, college and 
into his married/professional life.Most recently, Glenda lived in 
Blockton, Iowa and enjoyed “snow-birding” in Arizona during the winter 
months.Visitation will be Friday, Jan. 22, 2021, from 3p.m. to 6p.m., and 
funeral services Saturday, Jan. 23, 2021, at 10a.m., both at Park Lawn 
Northland Chapel, Liberty, Mo. Burial to follow at Second Creek 
Cemetery, Platte County, Mo.Memorials are suggested to Blockton Christian Church, Blockton, Iowa in care of the funeral home.Due to COVID-19 concerns if you have a cough, fever or are not 
feeling well, you may share a message with the family or sign an online 
guest book via www.parklawnfunerals.com. Services will be live streamed 
by visiting Glenda's obituary at upcoming services/view service times at
 www.parklawnfunerals.com . Social distancing and wearing masks is 
requested by the family at the visitation and funeral services. 
Arrangements: Park Lawn Northland Chapel (816) 781-8228.

Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall

Research from K-State’s John C. Pair Horticultural Center has quantified the effect of controlling grasses around newly planted trees. Jason Griffin, William Reid, and Dale Bremer conducted a study to investigate the inhibition of growth of transplanted, seedling trees when lawn grasses could grow up to the trunk. There were five treatments, including three with different species of grass: &nbsp; 1. Bare soil maintained with herbicides.&nbsp; 2. Area under tree mulched 3 inches deep.&nbsp; 3. Tall fescue allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 4. Bermudagrass allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 5. Kentucky bluegrass allowed to grow under tree. All treatments were applied to Eastern redbud seedlings as well as to pecan seedlings. All trees were fertilized according to recommendations and watered during the growing season with up to 1 inch of water if rainfall was deficient. At the end of two years, trees were measured and harvested. Data was taken on caliper (diameter) 6 inches above the ground, weight of aboveground portions of the tree, leaf area, and leaf weight. There were no differences in any measure between the mulched treatment and the bare soil treatment for either tree species. All measures showed significant growth increases if lawn grasses were controlled around the tree. Results include the following:&nbsp; 1. Caliper: Caliper measures 6 inches above the soil surface were twice as large for plots without grass than for those with either fescue or bluegrass, but only 50% larger when compared to the bermudagrass plots. &nbsp; 2. Top growth weight: Redbuds showed a 300% weight advantage for plots with grasses controlled than those without. Pecans showed a significant 200% increase. &nbsp; 3. Leaf area and leaf weight: Leaf areas were 200% larger in plots without grass competition and leaf weight showed a 300% increase. &nbsp;The obvious conclusion from this study is that grasses must be controlled under a newly transplanted tree to get the best possible growth. Though there were no differences in growth whether mulch was used or not, you may still wish to mulch for aesthetic reasons or to help control weed growth. How far from the trunk should the grasses be controlled? Try a minimum of 3 feet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Research from K-State’s John C. Pair Horticultural Center has quantified the effect of controlling grasses around newly planted trees. Jason Griffin, William Reid, and Dale Bremer conducted a study to investigate the inhibition of growth of transplanted, seedling trees when lawn grasses could grow up to the trunk. There were five treatments, including three with different species of grass: &nbsp; 1. Bare soil maintained with herbicides.&nbsp; 2. Area under tree mulched 3 inches deep.&nbsp; 3. Tall fescue allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 4. Bermudagrass allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 5. Kentucky bluegrass allowed to grow under tree. All treatments were applied to Eastern redbud seedlings as well as to pecan seedlings. All trees were fertilized according to recommendations and watered during the growing season with up to 1 inch of water if rainfall was deficient. At the end of two years, trees were measured and harvested. Data was taken on caliper (diameter) 6 inches above the ground, weight of aboveground portions of the tree, leaf area, and leaf weight. There were no differences in any measure between the mulched treatment and the bare soil treatment for either tree species. All measures showed significant growth increases if lawn grasses were controlled around the tree. Results include the following:&nbsp; 1. Caliper: Caliper measures 6 inches above the soil surface were twice as large for plots without grass than for those with either fescue or bluegrass, but only 50% larger when compared to the bermudagrass plots. &nbsp; 2. Top growth weight: Redbuds showed a 300% weight advantage for plots with grasses controlled than those without. Pecans showed a significant 200% increase. &nbsp; 3. Leaf area and leaf weight: Leaf areas were 200% larger in plots without grass competition and leaf weight showed a 300% increase. &nbsp;The obvious conclusion from this study is that grasses must be controlled under a newly transplanted tree to get the best possible growth. Though there were no differences in growth whether mulch was used or not, you may still wish to mulch for aesthetic reasons or to help control weed growth. How far from the trunk should the grasses be controlled? Try a minimum of 3 feet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Start trees off right 

If you are considering purchasing fruit trees this spring, there are certain factors that should be considered for some of our fruit tree species. &nbsp;Spring in Kansas is often unsettled with apricot and peach tree flowers being very vulnerable to late frosts that can kill fruit buds. Of course, the tree itself will be fine but there will be little to no fruit for that year. 

Other species of trees can also be affected but apricots and peaches are by far the most sensitive. &nbsp;Also, the closer a tree is to full bloom, the more sensitive it becomes to frost.

Apricots are more likely to have frost kill flowers than peaches because they bloom a bit earlier. Though there are late-blooming apricot varieties, the differences between full bloom on early and late-blooming varieties appear to be slight. Research at Virginia Tech in the '90s showed a maximum of a 4-day difference between early and late varieties. However, in some years that may be all that is needed. The trees in the study that were considered late blooming included Hungarian Rose, Tilton, and Harlayne. Harglow was not included in the study but is also considered late-blooming. 

See&nbsp;<a href="https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html">https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html</a>for more info.​Peaches are next on the list for being likely to be caught by a late frost. With peaches, two characteristics become important when considering whether they will be damaged. Like apricots, bloom time is very important but fruit bud hardiness should also be considered. In this case, fruit bud hardiness refers to hardiness to late frosts rather than the ability to survive extremely low temperatures during the winter. Late bloomers included ‘China Pearl’, ‘Encore’, ‘Intrepid’, and ‘Risingstar.’ See&nbsp;<a href="http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf">http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;. The ‘Intrepid’ cultivar also has shown excellent cold hardiness when in flower. See&nbsp;<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357">http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357</a>

<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357"></a> So, are there other considerations when looking at frost damage? Location can be very important. Planting on a hill that allows cold air to drain to lower elevations can help. &nbsp;Also, a location in town will be more likely to have a warmer micro-climate than an exposed location. Some gardeners will add a heat source under a tree during cold nights if they are close to a building. Heat lamps and charcoal briquettes are sometimes used but safety should be the first consideration. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>If you are considering purchasing fruit trees this spring, there are certain factors that should be considered for some of our fruit tree species. &nbsp;Spring in Kansas is often unsettled with apricot and peach tree flowers being very vulnerable to late frosts that can kill fruit buds. Of course, the tree itself will be fine but there will be little to no fruit for that year. Other species of trees can also be affected but apricots and peaches are by far the most sensitive. &nbsp;Also, the closer a tree is to full bloom, the more sensitive it becomes to frost.Apricots are more likely to have frost kill flowers than peaches because they bloom a bit earlier. Though there are late-blooming apricot varieties, the differences between full bloom on early and late-blooming varieties appear to be slight. Research at Virginia Tech in the '90s showed a maximum of a 4-day difference between early and late varieties. However, in some years that may be all that is needed. The trees in the study that were considered late blooming included Hungarian Rose, Tilton, and Harlayne. Harglow was not included in the study but is also considered late-blooming. See&nbsp;<a href="https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html">https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html</a>for more info.​Peaches are next on the list for being likely to be caught by a late frost. With peaches, two characteristics become important when considering whether they will be damaged. Like apricots, bloom time is very important but fruit bud hardiness should also be considered. In this case, fruit bud hardiness refers to hardiness to late frosts rather than the ability to survive extremely low temperatures during the winter. Late bloomers included ‘China Pearl’, ‘Encore’, ‘Intrepid’, and ‘Risingstar.’ See&nbsp;<a href="http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf">http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;. The ‘Intrepid’ cultivar also has shown excellent cold hardiness when in flower. See&nbsp;<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357">http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357</a><a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357"></a> So, are there other considerations when looking at frost damage? Location can be very important. Planting on a hill that allows cold air to drain to lower elevations can help. &nbsp;Also, a location in town will be more likely to have a warmer micro-climate than an exposed location. Some gardeners will add a heat source under a tree during cold nights if they are close to a building. Heat lamps and charcoal briquettes are sometimes used but safety should be the first consideration. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Fruit trees and frost

To avoid energy costs, some homeowners are turning to wood for heat. &nbsp;Plant species is an important consideration as not all trees have the same density and therefore, heat value. The greater the dry weight, the better. The highest value for trees commonly found in Kansas is Osage orange (hedgeball tree) at 4,800 pounds per cord. Osage orange has a gnarly growth habit and a nasty set of thorns. This species also sparks which isn’t a problem in a wood-fired boiler but certainly would be in an open fireplace.Black locust is next with 4,200 pounds per cord. Black locust is a fast grower and has excellent burning qualities and makes a nice bed of coals. However, it is hard to split, suckers, and has some small thorns, especially on young trees. Bur oak and red oak come in at 3,800 and 3,500 pounds per cord respectively but are not fast growers. Mulberry, however, has the same weight as red oak but grows more quickly. Silver maple has less heat value (3,000 pounds per cord) but is a very fast-growing tree. Black locust is a tempting choice for this purpose due to its heat value and fast growth. &nbsp; However, black locust suckers and is invasive and can spread to areas you don’t want and so be careful if you choose this species. &nbsp;Another species, such as mulberry may work better for you. Or consider planting several different species in rows. So, how do you set out your plantation? Dr. Wayne Geyer, our late forestry professor, did many woody biomass studies over a period of 35 years. Following are some recommendations that have come out of his studies.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant on a close spacing, 4 to 6 feet apart. This maximizes yield and reduces side branching.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Control weeds for the first two years.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Harvest every 5 years though slower growing trees will take longer. &nbsp;Most trees will resprout and can be re-harvested.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant about 1 acre per year for 5 years if you wish to supply most of the firewood needed to heat your home.​

The trees mentioned above and available from the Kansas Forest Service include mulberry, Osage orange, bur oak, red oak, and silver maple. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>To avoid energy costs, some homeowners are turning to wood for heat. &nbsp;Plant species is an important consideration as not all trees have the same density and therefore, heat value. The greater the dry weight, the better. The highest value for trees commonly found in Kansas is Osage orange (hedgeball tree) at 4,800 pounds per cord. Osage orange has a gnarly growth habit and a nasty set of thorns. This species also sparks which isn’t a problem in a wood-fired boiler but certainly would be in an open fireplace.Black locust is next with 4,200 pounds per cord. Black locust is a fast grower and has excellent burning qualities and makes a nice bed of coals. However, it is hard to split, suckers, and has some small thorns, especially on young trees. Bur oak and red oak come in at 3,800 and 3,500 pounds per cord respectively but are not fast growers. Mulberry, however, has the same weight as red oak but grows more quickly. Silver maple has less heat value (3,000 pounds per cord) but is a very fast-growing tree. Black locust is a tempting choice for this purpose due to its heat value and fast growth. &nbsp; However, black locust suckers and is invasive and can spread to areas you don’t want and so be careful if you choose this species. &nbsp;Another species, such as mulberry may work better for you. Or consider planting several different species in rows. So, how do you set out your plantation? Dr. Wayne Geyer, our late forestry professor, did many woody biomass studies over a period of 35 years. Following are some recommendations that have come out of his studies.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant on a close spacing, 4 to 6 feet apart. This maximizes yield and reduces side branching.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Control weeds for the first two years.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Harvest every 5 years though slower growing trees will take longer. &nbsp;Most trees will resprout and can be re-harvested.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant about 1 acre per year for 5 years if you wish to supply most of the firewood needed to heat your home.​The trees mentioned above and available from the Kansas Forest Service include mulberry, Osage orange, bur oak, red oak, and silver maple. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Growing your own firewood 

BY DONNA KRUG Cottonwood Extension District

Mike and Amy Jensen, Hays, were recognized recently by the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board as the 2020 recipients of the Extension Appreciation Award. The Jensen Family works together, serving up locally grown food at Professor's in Hays. Besides that, they are familiar faces at the Downtown Farmer’s market, with their honey and mushrooms.&nbsp;

Still, Mike and Amy find time to make contributions to the Cottonwood Extension District Programs. They have served on various committees related to the 4-H and Youth program, working especially hard to raise funds for the concession area at the Fairgrounds. More recently they have partnered with Lauren Fick, Cottonwood District Horticulture Agent, to develop a “Bee program.” COVID created a challenge, but they are hoping to bring educational programs related to bees to the district in 2021.

Thank you, Mike and Amy, for your involvement and support of our Cottonwood Extension District Programs.&nbsp;

Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/12/1608658816374.png" alt="Tatum Kimzey, representing the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board, presents the 2020 Extension Appreciation Award to Mike and Amy Jensen, from Hays." />
 <figcaption>Tatum Kimzey, representing the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board, presents the 2020 Extension Appreciation Award to Mike and Amy Jensen, from Hays.</figcaption>
 </figure>BY DONNA KRUG Cottonwood Extension DistrictMike and Amy Jensen, Hays, were recognized recently by the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board as the 2020 recipients of the Extension Appreciation Award. The Jensen Family works together, serving up locally grown food at Professor's in Hays. Besides that, they are familiar faces at the Downtown Farmer’s market, with their honey and mushrooms.&nbsp;Still, Mike and Amy find time to make contributions to the Cottonwood Extension District Programs. They have served on various committees related to the 4-H and Youth program, working especially hard to raise funds for the concession area at the Fairgrounds. More recently they have partnered with Lauren Fick, Cottonwood District Horticulture Agent, to develop a “Bee program.” COVID created a challenge, but they are hoping to bring educational programs related to bees to the district in 2021.Thank you, Mike and Amy, for your involvement and support of our Cottonwood Extension District Programs.&nbsp;Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

Hays family honored by Cottonwood Extension District

With in-person interactions across the state severely limited due to the continuing pandemic, staying connected can be quite challenging. The Cottonwood Extension District in Barton and Ellis County has several social media accounts and other digital resources available, including a quarterly newsletter. Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube, in addition to our website, <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

The Cottonwood Extension District is part of the land-grant university—Cooperative Extension System, better known as K-State Research &amp; Extension. We are part of Kansas State University the College of Agriculture and the College of Health and Human Sciences. Our goal is to bring the university to the people, through unbiased research-based information and education. Primarily in the core areas of Family, Consumer Sciences and Wellness, 4-H Youth Development, Community Development, Horticulture, Agriculture and Natural Resources.&nbsp;

Cottonwood District has an active Facebook page providing current updates, videos, events and activities hosted by us <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/">https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/</a>&nbsp; This year during both the Barton and Ellis County Fairs the style revues and junior livestock shows were posted on Facebook Live. &nbsp;

Cottonwood District has become active on Twitter posting current news and updates mainly in agriculture and horticulture--videos, events, activities and upcoming programs. You can follow the Cottonwood Extension District on Twitter at @CottonwoodExt. Also the two agriculture agents in the district have Twitter accounts. Alicia Boor’s Twitter account focuses primarily on livestock and forage production at @lishboor and Stacy Campbell’s Twitter account focuses primarily on crop production at @scampbel_stacy.

Within the last year the Cottonwood District has started a YouTube channel in an effort to try and reach more folks with our research based information and education. A few short and informative videos are posted as well as some in depth programs and presentations on specific topics. Stay tuned to this channel <a href="https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2">https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2</a> we will continue to add more content.&nbsp;

Last but not least, Cottonwood Extension District puts out a digital quarterly newsletter. We send out an email notification to those that have subscribed to our newsletter when it is available. If you would like to subscribe to the quarterly newsletter let our Hays Office Professional, Theresa Meis know, she can be contacted at <a href="mailto:tam3@ksu.edu">tam3@ksu.edu</a>. You can also access the newsletter on our web site at <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

Be sure to check out these social media and digital resources and get them book marked or subscribe to these free resources!&nbsp;

Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430, if after hours please leave a voice-mail for a return call.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1574181994278.png" alt="Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>With in-person interactions across the state severely limited due to the continuing pandemic, staying connected can be quite challenging. The Cottonwood Extension District in Barton and Ellis County has several social media accounts and other digital resources available, including a quarterly newsletter. Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube, in addition to our website, <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;The Cottonwood Extension District is part of the land-grant university—Cooperative Extension System, better known as K-State Research &amp; Extension. We are part of Kansas State University the College of Agriculture and the College of Health and Human Sciences. Our goal is to bring the university to the people, through unbiased research-based information and education. Primarily in the core areas of Family, Consumer Sciences and Wellness, 4-H Youth Development, Community Development, Horticulture, Agriculture and Natural Resources.&nbsp;Cottonwood District has an active Facebook page providing current updates, videos, events and activities hosted by us <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/">https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/</a>&nbsp; This year during both the Barton and Ellis County Fairs the style revues and junior livestock shows were posted on Facebook Live. &nbsp;Cottonwood District has become active on Twitter posting current news and updates mainly in agriculture and horticulture--videos, events, activities and upcoming programs. You can follow the Cottonwood Extension District on Twitter at @CottonwoodExt. Also the two agriculture agents in the district have Twitter accounts. Alicia Boor’s Twitter account focuses primarily on livestock and forage production at @lishboor and Stacy Campbell’s Twitter account focuses primarily on crop production at @scampbel_stacy.Within the last year the Cottonwood District has started a YouTube channel in an effort to try and reach more folks with our research based information and education. A few short and informative videos are posted as well as some in depth programs and presentations on specific topics. Stay tuned to this channel <a href="https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2">https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2</a> we will continue to add more content.&nbsp;Last but not least, Cottonwood Extension District puts out a digital quarterly newsletter. We send out an email notification to those that have subscribed to our newsletter when it is available. If you would like to subscribe to the quarterly newsletter let our Hays Office Professional, Theresa Meis know, she can be contacted at <a href="mailto:tam3@ksu.edu">tam3@ksu.edu</a>. You can also access the newsletter on our web site at <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;Be sure to check out these social media and digital resources and get them book marked or subscribe to these free resources!&nbsp;Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430, if after hours please leave a voice-mail for a return call.&nbsp;