People often wonder why we recommend seeding cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass in the fall. It would seem that the spring would be the more natural time for seeding because the entire growing season is available for the grass to become established before the turf has to deal with winter. There are a few reasons that tend to make fall seedings more successful.

The soils are warmer in the fall. Warm soils mean less time required for germination and growth, so the grass becomes established more quickly. I have seen tall fescue seeded in the last week of August come up in four days. Now, you had to be on your hands and knees to see it, but it was up. Tall fescue seeded in the spring may take well over a week to come up and the time required to become established is much longer.

Weeds are less of a problem in the fall. The major weed problems in the fall tend to be the broadleaves such as chickweed, henbit, or dandelion. Turf seeded in early September is usually thick enough by the time these broadleaves germinate that often there is not much weed invasion. Even if there is some invasion by broadleaves, the turf should be mature enough by early November that mild broadleaf herbicides can be applied.

In the spring, our major weed problems are the annual grasses such as crabgrass.  Since the spring-seeded turf is slow to mature, there are often thin areas that are easily invaded by these grassy weeds. If this invasion occurs, the weeds are better adapted to our hot, summer conditions than our cool-season grasses and so the weeds tend to take over. The number of chemicals that can be used on young turf is limited, and so these grasses become more of a problem. One of the preemergence herbicides that can be used on young grasses is dithiopyr (Dimension).  It is found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed &amp; Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer and can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination.  

Summer is the hardest time of the year for cool-season grasses, not the winter. Summertime is very difficult because our cool-season grasses do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that our warm-season grasses such as buffalo, zoysia, and Bermuda have. Therefore, they tend to become weakened in the summer which makes them more susceptible to disease and other stresses. Spring-seeded cool-season grasses are less mature and therefore less able to tolerate these stresses.

Seeding cool-season grass in the spring can be successful but is more difficult to pull off than fall seedings. If you have a choice, always opt for seeding cool-season grasses in the fall.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>People often wonder why we recommend seeding cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass in the fall. It would seem that the spring would be the more natural time for seeding because the entire growing season is available for the grass to become established before the turf has to deal with winter. There are a few reasons that tend to make fall seedings more successful.The soils are warmer in the fall. Warm soils mean less time required for germination and growth, so the grass becomes established more quickly. I have seen tall fescue seeded in the last week of August come up in four days. Now, you had to be on your hands and knees to see it, but it was up. Tall fescue seeded in the spring may take well over a week to come up and the time required to become established is much longer.Weeds are less of a problem in the fall. The major weed problems in the fall tend to be the broadleaves such as chickweed, henbit, or dandelion. Turf seeded in early September is usually thick enough by the time these broadleaves germinate that often there is not much weed invasion. Even if there is some invasion by broadleaves, the turf should be mature enough by early November that mild broadleaf herbicides can be applied.In the spring, our major weed problems are the annual grasses such as crabgrass. Since the spring-seeded turf is slow to mature, there are often thin areas that are easily invaded by these grassy weeds. If this invasion occurs, the weeds are better adapted to our hot, summer conditions than our cool-season grasses and so the weeds tend to take over. The number of chemicals that can be used on young turf is limited, and so these grasses become more of a problem. One of the preemergence herbicides that can be used on young grasses is dithiopyr (Dimension). It is found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed &amp; Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer and can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Summer is the hardest time of the year for cool-season grasses, not the winter. Summertime is very difficult because our cool-season grasses do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that our warm-season grasses such as buffalo, zoysia, and Bermuda have. Therefore, they tend to become weakened in the summer which makes them more susceptible to disease and other stresses. Spring-seeded cool-season grasses are less mature and therefore less able to tolerate these stresses.Seeding cool-season grass in the spring can be successful but is more difficult to pull off than fall seedings. If you have a choice, always opt for seeding cool-season grasses in the fall.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Why seeding cool-season grasses in spring is difficult

Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) are two closely related plants that can become weed problems in home lawns and landscapes. Though wild garlic and wild onion look much alike, each has an odor that is characterized by its name – wild garlic smells like garlic and wild onion smells like onion. These plants are perennials that can also reproduce by seeds and aerial bulbils. Bulbils form at the top of the stem and are oval and smooth. 

Wild garlic also reproduces by underground bulb offsets, but wild onion does not. Both species produce a clump of plants that is unsightly in a lawn. Control recommendations are the same though we now have a couple of new additions to our arsenal.​Traditionally we have used 2,4-D or 2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba (i.e., Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gon). These products should be sprayed during March on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Newer products are Weed Free Zone and Speed Zone. Both are combination products that contain a formulation of Trimec plus carfentrazone. These will give a quicker response at cooler temperatures than 50 degrees. A spreader-sticker added to the spray should help any of these products be more effective. At times, the spreader-sticker is already mixed into the weed killer; no additional amount is needed. These herbicides are also effective on dandelions. Unfortunately, we have not had a good chemical control for Star-of-Bethlehem. The best products we had were Coolpower (31.3% control) and Turflon Ester (23.8% control). Coolpower is a commercial only product, but Turflon Ester is available to both commercial and homeowner users. But research out of Virginia Tech has improved our outlook. Scientists there did a study in which they gained 96% control of Star-of-Bethlehem one month after treatment by using Quicksilver, a formulation of carfentrazone at the rate of 4 fl. oz/A. Quicksilver is a commercial only product, and therefore is not readily available to homeowners. However, both Speed Zone and Weed Free Zone contain carfentrazone and would certainly be worth a try if you have this troublesome plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by email at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) are two closely related plants that can become weed problems in home lawns and landscapes. Though wild garlic and wild onion look much alike, each has an odor that is characterized by its name – wild garlic smells like garlic and wild onion smells like onion. These plants are perennials that can also reproduce by seeds and aerial bulbils. Bulbils form at the top of the stem and are oval and smooth. Wild garlic also reproduces by underground bulb offsets, but wild onion does not. Both species produce a clump of plants that is unsightly in a lawn. Control recommendations are the same though we now have a couple of new additions to our arsenal.​Traditionally we have used 2,4-D or 2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba (i.e., Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gon). These products should be sprayed during March on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Newer products are Weed Free Zone and Speed Zone. Both are combination products that contain a formulation of Trimec plus carfentrazone. These will give a quicker response at cooler temperatures than 50 degrees. A spreader-sticker added to the spray should help any of these products be more effective. At times, the spreader-sticker is already mixed into the weed killer; no additional amount is needed. These herbicides are also effective on dandelions. Unfortunately, we have not had a good chemical control for Star-of-Bethlehem. The best products we had were Coolpower (31.3% control) and Turflon Ester (23.8% control). Coolpower is a commercial only product, but Turflon Ester is available to both commercial and homeowner users. But research out of Virginia Tech has improved our outlook. Scientists there did a study in which they gained 96% control of Star-of-Bethlehem one month after treatment by using Quicksilver, a formulation of carfentrazone at the rate of 4 fl. oz/A. Quicksilver is a commercial only product, and therefore is not readily available to homeowners. However, both Speed Zone and Weed Free Zone contain carfentrazone and would certainly be worth a try if you have this troublesome plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by email at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Wild onion, wild garlic, and Star-of-Bethlehem

Grassy sandbur is the “sticker” plant that looks like grass. It will often invade thin lawns, especially in dry years. Therefore, the best control for this weed is a thick, healthy lawn.

However, if your lawn is thin this spring and grassy sandbur was a problem last year, use a preemergence herbicide before the sandbur comes up. However, not all preemergence herbicides are effective. The three products that can help minimize grassy sandbur are oryzalin, pendimethalin, and prodiamine. Oryzalin is sold under the trade name Weed Impede. &nbsp; It can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Oryzalin is also sold as a combination product with benefin as Green Light Amaze. &nbsp;As with oryzalin alone, it can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Apply Amaze or an oryzalin product about April 15 when redbud trees approach full bloom. Pendimethalin is sold commercially as Pendulum as well as several other names. On the homeowner side, it is sold as Scotts Halts. Pendimethalin is best applied as a split application with the first half applied about April 15 and the second about June 1. Alternatively, make the first application when redbud trees approach full bloom and the second six weeks later. Prodiamine is sold under the commercial name of Barricade. &nbsp;It is also sold as a homeowner product Howard Johnson Crabgrass Control Plus with 0.37 Prodiamine &nbsp;00-00-07. &nbsp;It can be used on all our common lawn grasses. Apply as is done for oryzalin, about April 15 or when redbud trees approach full bloom. Only one application is needed per year. None of the “weed preventers” will give complete control but each should help. Quinclorac (Drive) can provide some postemergence control especially if the sandbur is in the seedling stage. Quinclorac is also found in several combination products that control both broadleaf weeds and crabgrass such as one of the following. • Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control • BioAdvanced All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer • Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus • Fertilome Weed Out with Crabgrass Killer • Trimec Crabgrass Plus Lawn Weed Killer • Bonide Weed Beater Plus Crabgrass &amp; Broadleaf Weed Killer • Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer Again, the best control for grassy sandbur is a healthy, thick lawn. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Grassy sandbur is the “sticker” plant that looks like grass. It will often invade thin lawns, especially in dry years. Therefore, the best control for this weed is a thick, healthy lawn. However, if your lawn is thin this spring and grassy sandbur was a problem last year, use a preemergence herbicide before the sandbur comes up. However, not all preemergence herbicides are effective. The three products that can help minimize grassy sandbur are oryzalin, pendimethalin, and prodiamine. Oryzalin is sold under the trade name Weed Impede. &nbsp; It can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Oryzalin is also sold as a combination product with benefin as Green Light Amaze. &nbsp;As with oryzalin alone, it can be used on all warm-season grasses as well as tall fescue. It should not be used on cool-season grasses other than tall fescue such as Kentucky bluegrass. Apply Amaze or an oryzalin product about April 15 when redbud trees approach full bloom. Pendimethalin is sold commercially as Pendulum as well as several other names. On the homeowner side, it is sold as Scotts Halts. Pendimethalin is best applied as a split application with the first half applied about April 15 and the second about June 1. Alternatively, make the first application when redbud trees approach full bloom and the second six weeks later. Prodiamine is sold under the commercial name of Barricade. &nbsp;It is also sold as a homeowner product Howard Johnson Crabgrass Control Plus with 0.37 Prodiamine &nbsp;00-00-07. &nbsp;It can be used on all our common lawn grasses. Apply as is done for oryzalin, about April 15 or when redbud trees approach full bloom. Only one application is needed per year. None of the “weed preventers” will give complete control but each should help. Quinclorac (Drive) can provide some postemergence control especially if the sandbur is in the seedling stage. Quinclorac is also found in several combination products that control both broadleaf weeds and crabgrass such as one of the following. • Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max + Crabgrass Control • BioAdvanced All-in-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer • Monterey Crab-E-Rad Plus • Fertilome Weed Out with Crabgrass Killer • Trimec Crabgrass Plus Lawn Weed Killer • Bonide Weed Beater Plus Crabgrass &amp; Broadleaf Weed Killer • Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer Again, the best control for grassy sandbur is a healthy, thick lawn. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Controlling grassy sandbur 'stickers'

Crabgrass preventers are another name for pre-emergence herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants. Many people have a somewhat foggy idea of how they work and assume they kill the weed seed. &nbsp;Such is not the case. They do not kill the seed or even keep the seed from germinating but rather kill the young plant after it germinates. &nbsp;Therefore, they do not prevent germination but prevent emergence. Crabgrass preventers are just that – preventers. With few exceptions they have no effect on existing crabgrass plants, so they must be applied before germination. Additionally, preventers do not last forever once applied to the soil. &nbsp;Microorganisms and natural processes begin to gradually break them down soon after they are applied. If some products are applied too early, they may have lost much of their strength by the time they are needed. Most crabgrass preventers are fairly ineffective after about 60 days, but there is considerable variation among products. (Dimension and Barricade last longer. See below.)​

For most of Kansas, crabgrass typically begins to germinate around May 1 or a little later. April 15 is normally a good target date for applying preventer because it gives active ingredients time to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. &nbsp;Even better, base timing on the bloom of ornamental plants. The Eastern Redbud tree is a good choice for this purpose. When the trees in your area approach full bloom, apply crabgrass preventer. A follow-up application will be needed about 8 weeks later unless you are using Dimension or Barricade. Products that do require a follow-up application include pendimethalin (Scotts Halts) and Team (Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control). Dimension and Barricade are the only two products that give season-long control of crabgrass from a single application. In fact, they can be applied much earlier than April 15 and still have sufficient residual strength to last the season. Barricade can even be applied in the fall for crabgrass control the next season. Dimension can be applied as early as March 1. Because of the added flexibility in timing, these products are favorites of lawn care companies who have many customers to service in the spring. Though Dimension is usually not applied as early as Barricade, it is the herbicide of choice if it must be applied later than recommended. It is the exception to the rule that pre-emergence herbicides do not kill existing weeds. Dimension can kill crabgrass as long as it is young (two- to three-leaf stage). Dimension is also the best choice if treating a lawn that was planted late last fall.

Normally a pre-emergence herbicide is not recommended unless the lawn has been mowed two to four times. But Dimension is kind to young tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass seedlings and some formulations can be applied as early as two weeks after the first sign of germination. However, read the label of the specific product you wish to use to ensure that this use is allowed. Lawns established in the fall can be safely treated with Dimension the following spring even if they have not been mowed. Note that products containing Dimension and Barricade may use the common name rather than the trade name. The common chemical name for Dimension is dithiopyr and for Barricade is prodiamine. Remember, when using any pesticide, read the label and follow instructions carefully. We recommend crabgrass preventers be applied before fertilizer so that the grass isn’t encouraged to put on too much growth too early. However, it may be difficult to find products that contain preemergents without fertilizer. Those that don’t contain fertilizer are listed below. I didn’t find any products containing Barricade that did not also have a fertilizer. If anyone knows of other products that should be listed, let us know and we will publish them in a later newsletter. Pendimethalin&nbsp; &nbsp;- Scotts Halts Team (Benefin + Trifluralin)&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control Dimension&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Turf &amp; Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper&nbsp; &nbsp;- Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer&nbsp; &nbsp;- Green Light Crabgrass Preventer Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Crabgrass preventers are another name for pre-emergence herbicides that prevent crabgrass seeds from developing into mature plants. Many people have a somewhat foggy idea of how they work and assume they kill the weed seed. &nbsp;Such is not the case. They do not kill the seed or even keep the seed from germinating but rather kill the young plant after it germinates. &nbsp;Therefore, they do not prevent germination but prevent emergence. Crabgrass preventers are just that – preventers. With few exceptions they have no effect on existing crabgrass plants, so they must be applied before germination. Additionally, preventers do not last forever once applied to the soil. &nbsp;Microorganisms and natural processes begin to gradually break them down soon after they are applied. If some products are applied too early, they may have lost much of their strength by the time they are needed. Most crabgrass preventers are fairly ineffective after about 60 days, but there is considerable variation among products. (Dimension and Barricade last longer. See below.)​For most of Kansas, crabgrass typically begins to germinate around May 1 or a little later. April 15 is normally a good target date for applying preventer because it gives active ingredients time to evenly disperse in the soil before crabgrass germination starts. &nbsp;Even better, base timing on the bloom of ornamental plants. The Eastern Redbud tree is a good choice for this purpose. When the trees in your area approach full bloom, apply crabgrass preventer. A follow-up application will be needed about 8 weeks later unless you are using Dimension or Barricade. Products that do require a follow-up application include pendimethalin (Scotts Halts) and Team (Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control). Dimension and Barricade are the only two products that give season-long control of crabgrass from a single application. In fact, they can be applied much earlier than April 15 and still have sufficient residual strength to last the season. Barricade can even be applied in the fall for crabgrass control the next season. Dimension can be applied as early as March 1. Because of the added flexibility in timing, these products are favorites of lawn care companies who have many customers to service in the spring. Though Dimension is usually not applied as early as Barricade, it is the herbicide of choice if it must be applied later than recommended. It is the exception to the rule that pre-emergence herbicides do not kill existing weeds. Dimension can kill crabgrass as long as it is young (two- to three-leaf stage). Dimension is also the best choice if treating a lawn that was planted late last fall. Normally a pre-emergence herbicide is not recommended unless the lawn has been mowed two to four times. But Dimension is kind to young tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass seedlings and some formulations can be applied as early as two weeks after the first sign of germination. However, read the label of the specific product you wish to use to ensure that this use is allowed. Lawns established in the fall can be safely treated with Dimension the following spring even if they have not been mowed. Note that products containing Dimension and Barricade may use the common name rather than the trade name. The common chemical name for Dimension is dithiopyr and for Barricade is prodiamine. Remember, when using any pesticide, read the label and follow instructions carefully. We recommend crabgrass preventers be applied before fertilizer so that the grass isn’t encouraged to put on too much growth too early. However, it may be difficult to find products that contain preemergents without fertilizer. Those that don’t contain fertilizer are listed below. I didn’t find any products containing Barricade that did not also have a fertilizer. If anyone knows of other products that should be listed, let us know and we will publish them in a later newsletter. Pendimethalin&nbsp; &nbsp;- Scotts Halts Team (Benefin + Trifluralin)&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control Dimension&nbsp; &nbsp;- Hi-Yield Turf &amp; Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper&nbsp; &nbsp;- Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer&nbsp; &nbsp;- Green Light Crabgrass Preventer Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Applying crabgrass preventers

One of the most neglected tools for vegetable gardeners is a soil thermometer. Soil temperature is a much better measure of when to plant than air temperature or the calendar. Planting when soil is too cool can cause some seeds to rot and transplants to sit there. A number of vegetables can germinate and grow at cool temperatures. For example, peas will germinate and grow well at a soil temperature of 40 F. Though lettuce, parsnips, and spinach can sprout at a soil temperature of 35 F, they prefer at least 45 F for best germination and growth. &nbsp;Radishes also do well at a soil temperature of 45 F. &nbsp;Even if the seeds of these cool-season crops are planted below the recommended soil temperature, the seed will rarely rot. Warm-season crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn, and beans are different. &nbsp;They prefer at least 55 F for germination (or transplanting), but others such as peppers, cucumbers, melons, and sweet potatoes need it even warmer, about 60 F. &nbsp;If planted when soils are too cool, they likely will rot before germinating. Taking soil temperature accurately is a bit of a science. First, use a metal soil thermometer, which is sold in many garden, auto parts, and hardware stores. Take temperature 2.5 inches deep at about 10 to 11 a.m. Temperature variations throughout the day and night affect soil temperature, with the lowest readings after dawn and the warmest around mid-afternoon. The late-morning reading gives a good average temperature. If taking the soil temperature at this time is not practical, take a reading before you leave for work and a second when you return home and use the average. Also be sure to get a consistent reading for four to five days in a row before planting, and make sure a cold snap is not predicted.An excellent guide sheet on this subject is published by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System and is titled “Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.” It can be found <a href="https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/12281/soiltemps.pdf">HERE</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>One of the most neglected tools for vegetable gardeners is a soil thermometer. Soil temperature is a much better measure of when to plant than air temperature or the calendar. Planting when soil is too cool can cause some seeds to rot and transplants to sit there. A number of vegetables can germinate and grow at cool temperatures. For example, peas will germinate and grow well at a soil temperature of 40 F. Though lettuce, parsnips, and spinach can sprout at a soil temperature of 35 F, they prefer at least 45 F for best germination and growth. &nbsp;Radishes also do well at a soil temperature of 45 F. &nbsp;Even if the seeds of these cool-season crops are planted below the recommended soil temperature, the seed will rarely rot. Warm-season crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn, and beans are different. &nbsp;They prefer at least 55 F for germination (or transplanting), but others such as peppers, cucumbers, melons, and sweet potatoes need it even warmer, about 60 F. &nbsp;If planted when soils are too cool, they likely will rot before germinating. Taking soil temperature accurately is a bit of a science. First, use a metal soil thermometer, which is sold in many garden, auto parts, and hardware stores. Take temperature 2.5 inches deep at about 10 to 11 a.m. Temperature variations throughout the day and night affect soil temperature, with the lowest readings after dawn and the warmest around mid-afternoon. The late-morning reading gives a good average temperature. If taking the soil temperature at this time is not practical, take a reading before you leave for work and a second when you return home and use the average. Also be sure to get a consistent reading for four to five days in a row before planting, and make sure a cold snap is not predicted.An excellent guide sheet on this subject is published by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System and is titled “Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.” It can be found <a href="https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/12281/soiltemps.pdf">HERE</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Soil temperature and vegetables 

Gardeners are eager to get out and do something in the landscape this time of year. One chore that can be taken care of now is pruning certain shrubs. Often, gardeners approach pruning with trepidation, but it is not as difficult as it may seem. Remember, not all shrubs need to be pruned (i.e., witch hazel), and certain shrubs, which will be identified later, should not be pruned this time of year. Shrubs are pruned to maintain or reduce the size, rejuvenate growth, or to remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches. Deciduous shrubs are those that lose their leaves each winter. Evergreen shrubs maintain foliage all year and include yews and junipers. Deciduous shrubs are placed into three groups:&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower in the spring on wood produced last year.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower later in the year on current seasons’ growth; and&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that may produce flowers, but those flowers are of little ornamental value.

Shrubs that flower in the spring should not be pruned until immediately after flowering. &nbsp;Though pruning earlier will not harm the health of the plant, the flowering display will be reduced. Examples of these types of plants include forsythia, lilac, and mock orange. Shrubs that bloom on current seasons’ growth or that do not produce ornamental flowers are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Examples include Rose-of-Sharon, pyracantha, Bumald spirea, and Japanese spirea. Pruning during the spring allows wounds to heal quickly without threat from insects or disease. There is no need to treat pruning cuts with paints or sealers. In fact, some of these products may slow healing. There are three basic methods used in pruning shrubs: thinning, heading back, and rejuvenating. Thinning is used to thin out branches from a shrub that is too dense. It is accomplished by removing most of the inward growing twigs by cutting them back to a larger branch. On multi-stemmed shrubs, the oldest canes may be removed entirely. Heading back is done by removing the end of a branch by cutting it back to a bud and is used for either reducing height or keeping a shrub compact. Branches are not cut back to a uniform height because this results in a "witches-broom" effect.​Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large, with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes. All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This is not recommended for all shrubs but does work well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, little leaf mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Gardeners are eager to get out and do something in the landscape this time of year. One chore that can be taken care of now is pruning certain shrubs. Often, gardeners approach pruning with trepidation, but it is not as difficult as it may seem. Remember, not all shrubs need to be pruned (i.e., witch hazel), and certain shrubs, which will be identified later, should not be pruned this time of year. Shrubs are pruned to maintain or reduce the size, rejuvenate growth, or to remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches. Deciduous shrubs are those that lose their leaves each winter. Evergreen shrubs maintain foliage all year and include yews and junipers. Deciduous shrubs are placed into three groups:&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower in the spring on wood produced last year.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower later in the year on current seasons’ growth; and&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that may produce flowers, but those flowers are of little ornamental value.Shrubs that flower in the spring should not be pruned until immediately after flowering. &nbsp;Though pruning earlier will not harm the health of the plant, the flowering display will be reduced. Examples of these types of plants include forsythia, lilac, and mock orange. Shrubs that bloom on current seasons’ growth or that do not produce ornamental flowers are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Examples include Rose-of-Sharon, pyracantha, Bumald spirea, and Japanese spirea. Pruning during the spring allows wounds to heal quickly without threat from insects or disease. There is no need to treat pruning cuts with paints or sealers. In fact, some of these products may slow healing. There are three basic methods used in pruning shrubs: thinning, heading back, and rejuvenating. Thinning is used to thin out branches from a shrub that is too dense. It is accomplished by removing most of the inward growing twigs by cutting them back to a larger branch. On multi-stemmed shrubs, the oldest canes may be removed entirely. Heading back is done by removing the end of a branch by cutting it back to a bud and is used for either reducing height or keeping a shrub compact. Branches are not cut back to a uniform height because this results in a "witches-broom" effect.​Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large, with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes. All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This is not recommended for all shrubs but does work well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, little leaf mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Pruning deciduous shrubs

The following suggestions are for cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss are warm-season grasses and require a different maintenance regime. A warm-season grass calendar will be covered in a later article. MarchSpot treat broadleaf weeds if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness. April Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products mentioned in this calendar. Remember that a good, thick lawn is the best weed prevention and may be all that is needed. May Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce the effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in. June through Mid-July Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application. These two products normally provide season-long control with a single application. Remember to water it in. If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid during the first half of July. This works to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with 1/4" of water. Late-July through August If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid is effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops. September Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer. November&nbsp; Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours reduces effectiveness. Use label rates for all products! Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>The following suggestions are for cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss are warm-season grasses and require a different maintenance regime. A warm-season grass calendar will be covered in a later article. MarchSpot treat broadleaf weeds if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness. April Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products mentioned in this calendar. Remember that a good, thick lawn is the best weed prevention and may be all that is needed. May Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce the effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in. June through Mid-July Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application. These two products normally provide season-long control with a single application. Remember to water it in. If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid during the first half of July. This works to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with 1/4" of water. Late-July through August If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid is effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops. September Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer. November&nbsp; Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours reduces effectiveness. Use label rates for all products! Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: Lawn calendar for cool-season grasses

Everyone knows that someone stranded in the ocean should not drink the water. The salt content of that water will make a bad situation worse. &nbsp;What many people don’t realize is that this same principle can harm plants. Fertilizers are salts or are converted to salts before plant take-up. They must be salts in order for the plant roots to absorb them. &nbsp;However, salt levels can build up over time and eventually may harm plant roots leading to scorched leaves and unhealthy plants. Though this can happen under field conditions, especially in low rainfall areas, it is particularly critical with houseplants. Houseplants have a certain soil volume that doesn’t change until a plant is repotted. Salt build-up can be a crucial concern especially if the houseplants are fertilized so heavily that the plants can’t use all the nutrients and fertilizer salts build-up. &nbsp;This is especially common in winter when houseplants do not use much fertilizer due to low levels of light.​Leaching an overabundance of salts can be an important practice to ensure the health of our houseplants.

Leaching is not a complicated or difficult process. It consists of adding enough water to wash out excess salts.How much water is enough? Add the amount of water that would equal twice the volume of the pot. This, of course, would need to be done outside or in a bathtub or sink. Water must be added slowly so that it doesn’t overflow the rim of the pot. If salt has formed a crust on the surface of the soil, remove it but don’t take more than 1/4 inch of the underlying media. This may also be a good time to repot the plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Everyone knows that someone stranded in the ocean should not drink the water. The salt content of that water will make a bad situation worse. &nbsp;What many people don’t realize is that this same principle can harm plants. Fertilizers are salts or are converted to salts before plant take-up. They must be salts in order for the plant roots to absorb them. &nbsp;However, salt levels can build up over time and eventually may harm plant roots leading to scorched leaves and unhealthy plants. Though this can happen under field conditions, especially in low rainfall areas, it is particularly critical with houseplants. Houseplants have a certain soil volume that doesn’t change until a plant is repotted. Salt build-up can be a crucial concern especially if the houseplants are fertilized so heavily that the plants can’t use all the nutrients and fertilizer salts build-up. &nbsp;This is especially common in winter when houseplants do not use much fertilizer due to low levels of light.​Leaching an overabundance of salts can be an important practice to ensure the health of our houseplants. Leaching is not a complicated or difficult process. It consists of adding enough water to wash out excess salts.How much water is enough? Add the amount of water that would equal twice the volume of the pot. This, of course, would need to be done outside or in a bathtub or sink. Water must be added slowly so that it doesn’t overflow the rim of the pot. If salt has formed a crust on the surface of the soil, remove it but don’t take more than 1/4 inch of the underlying media. This may also be a good time to repot the plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Leaching houseplants 

Severe winter weather is not only hard on people but can be a life and death struggle for birds. Though birds also require water and shelter, food is often the resource most lacking during cold weather. Many different bird food mixes are available because various species often prefer different grains. However, there is one seed that has more universal appeal than any other: black oil sunflower. If you are new to the bird-feeding game, make sure there is a high percentage of this seed in your mix. White proso millet is second in popularity and is the favorite of dark-eyed juncos and other sparrows as well as the red-winged blackbird. As you become more interested in bird feeding, you may want to use more than one feeder to attract specific species of birds. Following is a list of bird species with the grains they prefer.&nbsp;

• Cardinal, evening grosbeak, and most finch species – sunflower seeds, all types. • Rufous-sided towhee – white proso millet. • Dark-eyed junco – white and red proso millet, canary seed, finely cracked corn. • Many sparrow species – white and red proso millet. • Bluejay – peanut kernels and sunflower seeds of all types. • Chickadee and tufted titmouse – peanut kernels, oil (black), and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-breasted nuthatch – oil (black) and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Brown thrasher – hulled and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-winged blackbird – white and red proso millet plus German (golden) millet. • Mourning dove – oil (black) sunflower seeds, white and red proso plus German (golden)millet.

Extended cold periods can also make water unavailable. A heated birdbath can be a tremendous draw for birds during times when all other water is frozen. Energy use is usually less than what most people expect IF the heater has a built-in thermostat. If you would like more information, Chuck Otte, Agriculture Extension Agent for Geary County has a series of backyard birding guides at<a href="http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm">http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm</a>

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Severe winter weather is not only hard on people but can be a life and death struggle for birds. Though birds also require water and shelter, food is often the resource most lacking during cold weather. Many different bird food mixes are available because various species often prefer different grains. However, there is one seed that has more universal appeal than any other: black oil sunflower. If you are new to the bird-feeding game, make sure there is a high percentage of this seed in your mix. White proso millet is second in popularity and is the favorite of dark-eyed juncos and other sparrows as well as the red-winged blackbird. As you become more interested in bird feeding, you may want to use more than one feeder to attract specific species of birds. Following is a list of bird species with the grains they prefer.&nbsp;• Cardinal, evening grosbeak, and most finch species – sunflower seeds, all types. • Rufous-sided towhee – white proso millet. • Dark-eyed junco – white and red proso millet, canary seed, finely cracked corn. • Many sparrow species – white and red proso millet. • Bluejay – peanut kernels and sunflower seeds of all types. • Chickadee and tufted titmouse – peanut kernels, oil (black), and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-breasted nuthatch – oil (black) and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Brown thrasher – hulled and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-winged blackbird – white and red proso millet plus German (golden) millet. • Mourning dove – oil (black) sunflower seeds, white and red proso plus German (golden)millet.Extended cold periods can also make water unavailable. A heated birdbath can be a tremendous draw for birds during times when all other water is frozen. Energy use is usually less than what most people expect IF the heater has a built-in thermostat. If you would like more information, Chuck Otte, Agriculture Extension Agent for Geary County has a series of backyard birding guides at<a href="http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm">http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm</a> Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Bird feeding

Miniature roses are dwarf versions of roses including the classic hybrid teas. Though they are much smaller (12 to15 inches tall or less), they are surprisingly tough and can be planted outside where they will survive our Kansas winters if mulched. However, many gardeners like to grow the miniatures indoors where they can enjoy them during the drab winter months. Miniature roses grown as houseplants have specific requirements. For long-lasting flowers, air should be moist with a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent preferred though 40 percent is adequate. Placing the pots on a tray that holds moist pebbles will help provide the humidity needed.Like most plants, roses need a lot of light to flower. Though miniature roses will survive in a south window, many people will supplement available light with fluorescent lamps. Timers can be used to automatically turn the lights on and off. Providing 14 hours of light per day will be plenty for roses to grow and flower. Lights are normally spaced 3 to 4 inches above the tops of the plants.

The most serious pest of these plants indoors is spider mites. These mites are very small but can devastate miniature roses. They like dry, warm conditions. Maintaining adequate relative humidity levels and washing the plants once a week in tepid water will help prevent problems. If mites do develop, try using an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (2 percent rate) for control. The horticultural oil will be more effective than the soap. Be sure to spray or wash the entire plant including the underside of the leaves so that all mites are contacted.

Miniature roses can be placed outdoors during the summer to take advantage of higher light levels. Do not place the plant in the full sun immediately but gradually grant less light over a period of several weeks. Pots sunk in the ground will not need to be watered as often as those exposed. Turn the pot 180 degrees every couple of weeks to break off any roots that escape the pot and move into the underlying soil.&nbsp;

Miniature roses are not the easiest plants to grow as houseplants but can be well worth the effort required. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Miniature roses are dwarf versions of roses including the classic hybrid teas. Though they are much smaller (12 to15 inches tall or less), they are surprisingly tough and can be planted outside where they will survive our Kansas winters if mulched. However, many gardeners like to grow the miniatures indoors where they can enjoy them during the drab winter months. Miniature roses grown as houseplants have specific requirements. For long-lasting flowers, air should be moist with a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent preferred though 40 percent is adequate. Placing the pots on a tray that holds moist pebbles will help provide the humidity needed.Like most plants, roses need a lot of light to flower. Though miniature roses will survive in a south window, many people will supplement available light with fluorescent lamps. Timers can be used to automatically turn the lights on and off. Providing 14 hours of light per day will be plenty for roses to grow and flower. Lights are normally spaced 3 to 4 inches above the tops of the plants.The most serious pest of these plants indoors is spider mites. These mites are very small but can devastate miniature roses. They like dry, warm conditions. Maintaining adequate relative humidity levels and washing the plants once a week in tepid water will help prevent problems. If mites do develop, try using an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (2 percent rate) for control. The horticultural oil will be more effective than the soap. Be sure to spray or wash the entire plant including the underside of the leaves so that all mites are contacted.Miniature roses can be placed outdoors during the summer to take advantage of higher light levels. Do not place the plant in the full sun immediately but gradually grant less light over a period of several weeks. Pots sunk in the ground will not need to be watered as often as those exposed. Turn the pot 180 degrees every couple of weeks to break off any roots that escape the pot and move into the underlying soil.&nbsp;Miniature roses are not the easiest plants to grow as houseplants but can be well worth the effort required. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

FICK: Miniature roses

Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall, 70, passed away
 Jan. 13, 2021, in Mesa, Ariz. with family at her side. She was born Dec.
 8, 1950, in Leavenworth, Kan., the daughter of Marvin and Bessie 
(Poole) Murphy.

She graduated from Park Hill High School in 1968 and on Oct. 30, 
1969, she married John Dale Crandall in Kansas City, Mo. John and Glenda
 lived in the Kansas City area a few more years before moving to the 
frontier of Alaska in 1978 where they owned and operated Willow Creek 
Grocery. Their son, Jacob, was born in Alaska. After returning to 
Missouri, Glenda worked for many years as a Product Manager for Z 
International, living in the Kansas City area and later in rural 
Sullivan County, Mo. Upon retirement, she and John moved to Kearney, Mo.

Glenda is preceded in death by her parents Marvin and Bessie, and her
 husband, John. She is survived by her son Jacob Crandall and wife 
Abigail of Hays, Kan. Other survivors include: sister Brenda Martin, 
Farley, Mo.; sister Beth Bernard, Fayetteville, Ark.; brother Melvin 
(Judy) Murphy of Grandview, Mo., along with numerous nieces and nephews.

Glenda will be remembered by all for her ability to brighten up any 
room with her smile and engage people with her stories. She was well 
known for her generous nature, kindness, and compassion for others. 
Glenda loved to ensure her friends and family were well cared for and 
enjoyed being involved with her church families by decorating, providing
 flowers, and cooking/serving meals in her communities. Her hobbies 
included creating beautiful quilts, horticulture, boating, traveling for
 any adventure, and taking care of her “boys.” She was also very 
involved with her son’s activities throughout high school, college and 
into his married/professional life.Most recently, Glenda lived in 
Blockton, Iowa and enjoyed “snow-birding” in Arizona during the winter 
months.

Visitation will be Friday, Jan. 22, 2021, from 3p.m. to 6p.m., and 
funeral services Saturday, Jan. 23, 2021, at 10a.m., both at Park Lawn 
Northland Chapel, Liberty, Mo. Burial to follow at Second Creek 
Cemetery, Platte County, Mo.

Memorials are suggested to Blockton Christian Church, Blockton, Iowa in care of the funeral home.

Due to COVID-19 concerns if you have a cough, fever or are not 
feeling well, you may share a message with the family or sign an online 
guest book via www.parklawnfunerals.com. Services will be live streamed 
by visiting Glenda's obituary at upcoming services/view service times at
 www.parklawnfunerals.com . Social distancing and wearing masks is 
requested by the family at the visitation and funeral services. 
Arrangements: Park Lawn Northland Chapel (816) 781-8228.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/1/1611254116635.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall, 70, passed away
 Jan. 13, 2021, in Mesa, Ariz. with family at her side. She was born Dec.
 8, 1950, in Leavenworth, Kan., the daughter of Marvin and Bessie 
(Poole) Murphy.She graduated from Park Hill High School in 1968 and on Oct. 30, 
1969, she married John Dale Crandall in Kansas City, Mo. John and Glenda
 lived in the Kansas City area a few more years before moving to the 
frontier of Alaska in 1978 where they owned and operated Willow Creek 
Grocery. Their son, Jacob, was born in Alaska. After returning to 
Missouri, Glenda worked for many years as a Product Manager for Z 
International, living in the Kansas City area and later in rural 
Sullivan County, Mo. Upon retirement, she and John moved to Kearney, Mo.Glenda is preceded in death by her parents Marvin and Bessie, and her
 husband, John. She is survived by her son Jacob Crandall and wife 
Abigail of Hays, Kan. Other survivors include: sister Brenda Martin, 
Farley, Mo.; sister Beth Bernard, Fayetteville, Ark.; brother Melvin 
(Judy) Murphy of Grandview, Mo., along with numerous nieces and nephews.Glenda will be remembered by all for her ability to brighten up any 
room with her smile and engage people with her stories. She was well 
known for her generous nature, kindness, and compassion for others. 
Glenda loved to ensure her friends and family were well cared for and 
enjoyed being involved with her church families by decorating, providing
 flowers, and cooking/serving meals in her communities. Her hobbies 
included creating beautiful quilts, horticulture, boating, traveling for
 any adventure, and taking care of her “boys.” She was also very 
involved with her son’s activities throughout high school, college and 
into his married/professional life.Most recently, Glenda lived in 
Blockton, Iowa and enjoyed “snow-birding” in Arizona during the winter 
months.Visitation will be Friday, Jan. 22, 2021, from 3p.m. to 6p.m., and 
funeral services Saturday, Jan. 23, 2021, at 10a.m., both at Park Lawn 
Northland Chapel, Liberty, Mo. Burial to follow at Second Creek 
Cemetery, Platte County, Mo.Memorials are suggested to Blockton Christian Church, Blockton, Iowa in care of the funeral home.Due to COVID-19 concerns if you have a cough, fever or are not 
feeling well, you may share a message with the family or sign an online 
guest book via www.parklawnfunerals.com. Services will be live streamed 
by visiting Glenda's obituary at upcoming services/view service times at
 www.parklawnfunerals.com . Social distancing and wearing masks is 
requested by the family at the visitation and funeral services. 
Arrangements: Park Lawn Northland Chapel (816) 781-8228.

Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall

Research from K-State’s John C. Pair Horticultural Center has quantified the effect of controlling grasses around newly planted trees. Jason Griffin, William Reid, and Dale Bremer conducted a study to investigate the inhibition of growth of transplanted, seedling trees when lawn grasses could grow up to the trunk. There were five treatments, including three with different species of grass: &nbsp; 1. Bare soil maintained with herbicides.&nbsp; 2. Area under tree mulched 3 inches deep.&nbsp; 3. Tall fescue allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 4. Bermudagrass allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 5. Kentucky bluegrass allowed to grow under tree. All treatments were applied to Eastern redbud seedlings as well as to pecan seedlings. All trees were fertilized according to recommendations and watered during the growing season with up to 1 inch of water if rainfall was deficient. At the end of two years, trees were measured and harvested. Data was taken on caliper (diameter) 6 inches above the ground, weight of aboveground portions of the tree, leaf area, and leaf weight. There were no differences in any measure between the mulched treatment and the bare soil treatment for either tree species. All measures showed significant growth increases if lawn grasses were controlled around the tree. Results include the following:&nbsp; 1. Caliper: Caliper measures 6 inches above the soil surface were twice as large for plots without grass than for those with either fescue or bluegrass, but only 50% larger when compared to the bermudagrass plots. &nbsp; 2. Top growth weight: Redbuds showed a 300% weight advantage for plots with grasses controlled than those without. Pecans showed a significant 200% increase. &nbsp; 3. Leaf area and leaf weight: Leaf areas were 200% larger in plots without grass competition and leaf weight showed a 300% increase. &nbsp;The obvious conclusion from this study is that grasses must be controlled under a newly transplanted tree to get the best possible growth. Though there were no differences in growth whether mulch was used or not, you may still wish to mulch for aesthetic reasons or to help control weed growth. How far from the trunk should the grasses be controlled? Try a minimum of 3 feet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Research from K-State’s John C. Pair Horticultural Center has quantified the effect of controlling grasses around newly planted trees. Jason Griffin, William Reid, and Dale Bremer conducted a study to investigate the inhibition of growth of transplanted, seedling trees when lawn grasses could grow up to the trunk. There were five treatments, including three with different species of grass: &nbsp; 1. Bare soil maintained with herbicides.&nbsp; 2. Area under tree mulched 3 inches deep.&nbsp; 3. Tall fescue allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 4. Bermudagrass allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 5. Kentucky bluegrass allowed to grow under tree. All treatments were applied to Eastern redbud seedlings as well as to pecan seedlings. All trees were fertilized according to recommendations and watered during the growing season with up to 1 inch of water if rainfall was deficient. At the end of two years, trees were measured and harvested. Data was taken on caliper (diameter) 6 inches above the ground, weight of aboveground portions of the tree, leaf area, and leaf weight. There were no differences in any measure between the mulched treatment and the bare soil treatment for either tree species. All measures showed significant growth increases if lawn grasses were controlled around the tree. Results include the following:&nbsp; 1. Caliper: Caliper measures 6 inches above the soil surface were twice as large for plots without grass than for those with either fescue or bluegrass, but only 50% larger when compared to the bermudagrass plots. &nbsp; 2. Top growth weight: Redbuds showed a 300% weight advantage for plots with grasses controlled than those without. Pecans showed a significant 200% increase. &nbsp; 3. Leaf area and leaf weight: Leaf areas were 200% larger in plots without grass competition and leaf weight showed a 300% increase. &nbsp;The obvious conclusion from this study is that grasses must be controlled under a newly transplanted tree to get the best possible growth. Though there were no differences in growth whether mulch was used or not, you may still wish to mulch for aesthetic reasons or to help control weed growth. How far from the trunk should the grasses be controlled? Try a minimum of 3 feet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Start trees off right 

If you are considering purchasing fruit trees this spring, there are certain factors that should be considered for some of our fruit tree species. &nbsp;Spring in Kansas is often unsettled with apricot and peach tree flowers being very vulnerable to late frosts that can kill fruit buds. Of course, the tree itself will be fine but there will be little to no fruit for that year. 

Other species of trees can also be affected but apricots and peaches are by far the most sensitive. &nbsp;Also, the closer a tree is to full bloom, the more sensitive it becomes to frost.

Apricots are more likely to have frost kill flowers than peaches because they bloom a bit earlier. Though there are late-blooming apricot varieties, the differences between full bloom on early and late-blooming varieties appear to be slight. Research at Virginia Tech in the '90s showed a maximum of a 4-day difference between early and late varieties. However, in some years that may be all that is needed. The trees in the study that were considered late blooming included Hungarian Rose, Tilton, and Harlayne. Harglow was not included in the study but is also considered late-blooming. 

See&nbsp;<a href="https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html">https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html</a>for more info.​Peaches are next on the list for being likely to be caught by a late frost. With peaches, two characteristics become important when considering whether they will be damaged. Like apricots, bloom time is very important but fruit bud hardiness should also be considered. In this case, fruit bud hardiness refers to hardiness to late frosts rather than the ability to survive extremely low temperatures during the winter. Late bloomers included ‘China Pearl’, ‘Encore’, ‘Intrepid’, and ‘Risingstar.’ See&nbsp;<a href="http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf">http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;. The ‘Intrepid’ cultivar also has shown excellent cold hardiness when in flower. See&nbsp;<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357">http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357</a>

<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357"></a> So, are there other considerations when looking at frost damage? Location can be very important. Planting on a hill that allows cold air to drain to lower elevations can help. &nbsp;Also, a location in town will be more likely to have a warmer micro-climate than an exposed location. Some gardeners will add a heat source under a tree during cold nights if they are close to a building. Heat lamps and charcoal briquettes are sometimes used but safety should be the first consideration. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>If you are considering purchasing fruit trees this spring, there are certain factors that should be considered for some of our fruit tree species. &nbsp;Spring in Kansas is often unsettled with apricot and peach tree flowers being very vulnerable to late frosts that can kill fruit buds. Of course, the tree itself will be fine but there will be little to no fruit for that year. Other species of trees can also be affected but apricots and peaches are by far the most sensitive. &nbsp;Also, the closer a tree is to full bloom, the more sensitive it becomes to frost.Apricots are more likely to have frost kill flowers than peaches because they bloom a bit earlier. Though there are late-blooming apricot varieties, the differences between full bloom on early and late-blooming varieties appear to be slight. Research at Virginia Tech in the '90s showed a maximum of a 4-day difference between early and late varieties. However, in some years that may be all that is needed. The trees in the study that were considered late blooming included Hungarian Rose, Tilton, and Harlayne. Harglow was not included in the study but is also considered late-blooming. See&nbsp;<a href="https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html">https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html</a>for more info.​Peaches are next on the list for being likely to be caught by a late frost. With peaches, two characteristics become important when considering whether they will be damaged. Like apricots, bloom time is very important but fruit bud hardiness should also be considered. In this case, fruit bud hardiness refers to hardiness to late frosts rather than the ability to survive extremely low temperatures during the winter. Late bloomers included ‘China Pearl’, ‘Encore’, ‘Intrepid’, and ‘Risingstar.’ See&nbsp;<a href="http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf">http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;. The ‘Intrepid’ cultivar also has shown excellent cold hardiness when in flower. See&nbsp;<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357">http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357</a><a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357"></a> So, are there other considerations when looking at frost damage? Location can be very important. Planting on a hill that allows cold air to drain to lower elevations can help. &nbsp;Also, a location in town will be more likely to have a warmer micro-climate than an exposed location. Some gardeners will add a heat source under a tree during cold nights if they are close to a building. Heat lamps and charcoal briquettes are sometimes used but safety should be the first consideration. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Fruit trees and frost

To avoid energy costs, some homeowners are turning to wood for heat. &nbsp;Plant species is an important consideration as not all trees have the same density and therefore, heat value. The greater the dry weight, the better. The highest value for trees commonly found in Kansas is Osage orange (hedgeball tree) at 4,800 pounds per cord. Osage orange has a gnarly growth habit and a nasty set of thorns. This species also sparks which isn’t a problem in a wood-fired boiler but certainly would be in an open fireplace.Black locust is next with 4,200 pounds per cord. Black locust is a fast grower and has excellent burning qualities and makes a nice bed of coals. However, it is hard to split, suckers, and has some small thorns, especially on young trees. Bur oak and red oak come in at 3,800 and 3,500 pounds per cord respectively but are not fast growers. Mulberry, however, has the same weight as red oak but grows more quickly. Silver maple has less heat value (3,000 pounds per cord) but is a very fast-growing tree. Black locust is a tempting choice for this purpose due to its heat value and fast growth. &nbsp; However, black locust suckers and is invasive and can spread to areas you don’t want and so be careful if you choose this species. &nbsp;Another species, such as mulberry may work better for you. Or consider planting several different species in rows. So, how do you set out your plantation? Dr. Wayne Geyer, our late forestry professor, did many woody biomass studies over a period of 35 years. Following are some recommendations that have come out of his studies.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant on a close spacing, 4 to 6 feet apart. This maximizes yield and reduces side branching.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Control weeds for the first two years.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Harvest every 5 years though slower growing trees will take longer. &nbsp;Most trees will resprout and can be re-harvested.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant about 1 acre per year for 5 years if you wish to supply most of the firewood needed to heat your home.​

The trees mentioned above and available from the Kansas Forest Service include mulberry, Osage orange, bur oak, red oak, and silver maple. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>To avoid energy costs, some homeowners are turning to wood for heat. &nbsp;Plant species is an important consideration as not all trees have the same density and therefore, heat value. The greater the dry weight, the better. The highest value for trees commonly found in Kansas is Osage orange (hedgeball tree) at 4,800 pounds per cord. Osage orange has a gnarly growth habit and a nasty set of thorns. This species also sparks which isn’t a problem in a wood-fired boiler but certainly would be in an open fireplace.Black locust is next with 4,200 pounds per cord. Black locust is a fast grower and has excellent burning qualities and makes a nice bed of coals. However, it is hard to split, suckers, and has some small thorns, especially on young trees. Bur oak and red oak come in at 3,800 and 3,500 pounds per cord respectively but are not fast growers. Mulberry, however, has the same weight as red oak but grows more quickly. Silver maple has less heat value (3,000 pounds per cord) but is a very fast-growing tree. Black locust is a tempting choice for this purpose due to its heat value and fast growth. &nbsp; However, black locust suckers and is invasive and can spread to areas you don’t want and so be careful if you choose this species. &nbsp;Another species, such as mulberry may work better for you. Or consider planting several different species in rows. So, how do you set out your plantation? Dr. Wayne Geyer, our late forestry professor, did many woody biomass studies over a period of 35 years. Following are some recommendations that have come out of his studies.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant on a close spacing, 4 to 6 feet apart. This maximizes yield and reduces side branching.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Control weeds for the first two years.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Harvest every 5 years though slower growing trees will take longer. &nbsp;Most trees will resprout and can be re-harvested.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant about 1 acre per year for 5 years if you wish to supply most of the firewood needed to heat your home.​The trees mentioned above and available from the Kansas Forest Service include mulberry, Osage orange, bur oak, red oak, and silver maple. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Growing your own firewood 

BY DONNA KRUG Cottonwood Extension District

Mike and Amy Jensen, Hays, were recognized recently by the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board as the 2020 recipients of the Extension Appreciation Award. The Jensen Family works together, serving up locally grown food at Professor's in Hays. Besides that, they are familiar faces at the Downtown Farmer’s market, with their honey and mushrooms.&nbsp;

Still, Mike and Amy find time to make contributions to the Cottonwood Extension District Programs. They have served on various committees related to the 4-H and Youth program, working especially hard to raise funds for the concession area at the Fairgrounds. More recently they have partnered with Lauren Fick, Cottonwood District Horticulture Agent, to develop a “Bee program.” COVID created a challenge, but they are hoping to bring educational programs related to bees to the district in 2021.

Thank you, Mike and Amy, for your involvement and support of our Cottonwood Extension District Programs.&nbsp;

Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/12/1608658816374.png" alt="Tatum Kimzey, representing the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board, presents the 2020 Extension Appreciation Award to Mike and Amy Jensen, from Hays." />
 <figcaption>Tatum Kimzey, representing the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board, presents the 2020 Extension Appreciation Award to Mike and Amy Jensen, from Hays.</figcaption>
 </figure>BY DONNA KRUG Cottonwood Extension DistrictMike and Amy Jensen, Hays, were recognized recently by the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board as the 2020 recipients of the Extension Appreciation Award. The Jensen Family works together, serving up locally grown food at Professor's in Hays. Besides that, they are familiar faces at the Downtown Farmer’s market, with their honey and mushrooms.&nbsp;Still, Mike and Amy find time to make contributions to the Cottonwood Extension District Programs. They have served on various committees related to the 4-H and Youth program, working especially hard to raise funds for the concession area at the Fairgrounds. More recently they have partnered with Lauren Fick, Cottonwood District Horticulture Agent, to develop a “Bee program.” COVID created a challenge, but they are hoping to bring educational programs related to bees to the district in 2021.Thank you, Mike and Amy, for your involvement and support of our Cottonwood Extension District Programs.&nbsp;Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

Hays family honored by Cottonwood Extension District

With in-person interactions across the state severely limited due to the continuing pandemic, staying connected can be quite challenging. The Cottonwood Extension District in Barton and Ellis County has several social media accounts and other digital resources available, including a quarterly newsletter. Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube, in addition to our website, <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

The Cottonwood Extension District is part of the land-grant university—Cooperative Extension System, better known as K-State Research &amp; Extension. We are part of Kansas State University the College of Agriculture and the College of Health and Human Sciences. Our goal is to bring the university to the people, through unbiased research-based information and education. Primarily in the core areas of Family, Consumer Sciences and Wellness, 4-H Youth Development, Community Development, Horticulture, Agriculture and Natural Resources.&nbsp;

Cottonwood District has an active Facebook page providing current updates, videos, events and activities hosted by us <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/">https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/</a>&nbsp; This year during both the Barton and Ellis County Fairs the style revues and junior livestock shows were posted on Facebook Live. &nbsp;

Cottonwood District has become active on Twitter posting current news and updates mainly in agriculture and horticulture--videos, events, activities and upcoming programs. You can follow the Cottonwood Extension District on Twitter at @CottonwoodExt. Also the two agriculture agents in the district have Twitter accounts. Alicia Boor’s Twitter account focuses primarily on livestock and forage production at @lishboor and Stacy Campbell’s Twitter account focuses primarily on crop production at @scampbel_stacy.

Within the last year the Cottonwood District has started a YouTube channel in an effort to try and reach more folks with our research based information and education. A few short and informative videos are posted as well as some in depth programs and presentations on specific topics. Stay tuned to this channel <a href="https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2">https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2</a> we will continue to add more content.&nbsp;

Last but not least, Cottonwood Extension District puts out a digital quarterly newsletter. We send out an email notification to those that have subscribed to our newsletter when it is available. If you would like to subscribe to the quarterly newsletter let our Hays Office Professional, Theresa Meis know, she can be contacted at <a href="mailto:tam3@ksu.edu">tam3@ksu.edu</a>. You can also access the newsletter on our web site at <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

Be sure to check out these social media and digital resources and get them book marked or subscribe to these free resources!&nbsp;

Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430, if after hours please leave a voice-mail for a return call.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1574181994278.png" alt="Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>With in-person interactions across the state severely limited due to the continuing pandemic, staying connected can be quite challenging. The Cottonwood Extension District in Barton and Ellis County has several social media accounts and other digital resources available, including a quarterly newsletter. Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube, in addition to our website, <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;The Cottonwood Extension District is part of the land-grant university—Cooperative Extension System, better known as K-State Research &amp; Extension. We are part of Kansas State University the College of Agriculture and the College of Health and Human Sciences. Our goal is to bring the university to the people, through unbiased research-based information and education. Primarily in the core areas of Family, Consumer Sciences and Wellness, 4-H Youth Development, Community Development, Horticulture, Agriculture and Natural Resources.&nbsp;Cottonwood District has an active Facebook page providing current updates, videos, events and activities hosted by us <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/">https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/</a>&nbsp; This year during both the Barton and Ellis County Fairs the style revues and junior livestock shows were posted on Facebook Live. &nbsp;Cottonwood District has become active on Twitter posting current news and updates mainly in agriculture and horticulture--videos, events, activities and upcoming programs. You can follow the Cottonwood Extension District on Twitter at @CottonwoodExt. Also the two agriculture agents in the district have Twitter accounts. Alicia Boor’s Twitter account focuses primarily on livestock and forage production at @lishboor and Stacy Campbell’s Twitter account focuses primarily on crop production at @scampbel_stacy.Within the last year the Cottonwood District has started a YouTube channel in an effort to try and reach more folks with our research based information and education. A few short and informative videos are posted as well as some in depth programs and presentations on specific topics. Stay tuned to this channel <a href="https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2">https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2</a> we will continue to add more content.&nbsp;Last but not least, Cottonwood Extension District puts out a digital quarterly newsletter. We send out an email notification to those that have subscribed to our newsletter when it is available. If you would like to subscribe to the quarterly newsletter let our Hays Office Professional, Theresa Meis know, she can be contacted at <a href="mailto:tam3@ksu.edu">tam3@ksu.edu</a>. You can also access the newsletter on our web site at <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;Be sure to check out these social media and digital resources and get them book marked or subscribe to these free resources!&nbsp;Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430, if after hours please leave a voice-mail for a return call.&nbsp;

CAMPBELL: Stay connected to Extension with social media, digital resources

If selecting a cut Christmas tree, watch for these signs that the tree is too far gone.&nbsp; &nbsp; 

• Needles are a dull, grayish-green color • Needles fail to ooze pitch when broken apart and squeezed • Needles feel stiff and brittle • Needles pull easily off tree

Once you have your tree home, recut the trunk about one inch above the original cut. This will open up clogged, water-conducting tissues. Immediately place the trunk in warm water. Locate the tree in as cool a spot as possible. Avoid areas near fireplaces, wood-burning stoves and heat ducts as the heat will result in excess water loss. Make sure the reservoir stays filled. If the reservoir loses enough water that the bottom of the trunk is exposed, the trunk will need to be recut.

Adding aspirins, copper pennies, soda pop, sugar and bleach to the water reservoir have not been shown to prolong the life of a tree.​If you choose a living Christmas tree, be sure to dig the planting hole before the ground freezes. &nbsp;Mulch the hole and backfill soil to keep them from freezing. Live trees should not be kept inside for more than three days. Longer periods may cause them to lose dormancy resulting in severe injury when planted outside. 

You may wish to tag the tree at the nursery and then pick it up a couple days before Christmas. After Christmas, move the tree to an unheated garage for several days to acclimatize it to outside temperatures. After planting, water well and leave some mulch in place to prevent the soil water from freezing and becoming unavailable for plant uptake. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>If selecting a cut Christmas tree, watch for these signs that the tree is too far gone.&nbsp; &nbsp; • Needles are a dull, grayish-green color • Needles fail to ooze pitch when broken apart and squeezed • Needles feel stiff and brittle • Needles pull easily off treeOnce you have your tree home, recut the trunk about one inch above the original cut. This will open up clogged, water-conducting tissues. Immediately place the trunk in warm water. Locate the tree in as cool a spot as possible. Avoid areas near fireplaces, wood-burning stoves and heat ducts as the heat will result in excess water loss. Make sure the reservoir stays filled. If the reservoir loses enough water that the bottom of the trunk is exposed, the trunk will need to be recut. Adding aspirins, copper pennies, soda pop, sugar and bleach to the water reservoir have not been shown to prolong the life of a tree.​If you choose a living Christmas tree, be sure to dig the planting hole before the ground freezes. &nbsp;Mulch the hole and backfill soil to keep them from freezing. Live trees should not be kept inside for more than three days. Longer periods may cause them to lose dormancy resulting in severe injury when planted outside. You may wish to tag the tree at the nursery and then pick it up a couple days before Christmas. After Christmas, move the tree to an unheated garage for several days to acclimatize it to outside temperatures. After planting, water well and leave some mulch in place to prevent the soil water from freezing and becoming unavailable for plant uptake. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: When a Christmas tree is too far gone

It doesn’t seem possible that it has been three years since our Cottonwood Extension District formed, joining the K-State Research &amp; Extension operations for Barton and Ellis Counties. As our team of seven agents and two support staff work hard to bring research based, non-biased information to lifelong learners in our area, I am excited report some of the successes of 2020.

I hope you have had an opportunity to utilize our services in the past year. 2020 provided many challenges for families, but some neat learning opportunities were created by those challenges. As virtual meetings and educational programs became the norm, participants, young and old, adapted to the world of technology.&nbsp;

Perhaps your family is involved in 4-H or an after-school program. If so, we have two experienced agents, Michelle Beran and Susan Schlichting, leading the youth development program in the Cottonwood District. If you visit the Kansas 4-H web site you will find links to the Clover classroom with project challenges in photography, pollinators and communication, with more to come in 2021. &nbsp;

Our District Agriculture and Natural Resource agents. Alicia Boor and Stacy Campbell, have specialized to focus on livestock programming and crops respectively. Both Alicia and Stacy have produced teaching videos related to hot topics that are posted on our Cottonwood District Face book page.

Master gardeners in Ellis and Barton Counties receive guidance from our District Horticulture Agent, Lauren Fick. Lauren has worked hard to provide a fresh new look on our web sites’ horticulture page. She also prides herself in answering yard, garden and tree questions in a timely manner.&nbsp;

And finally, Berny Unruh and I are committed to bringing Extension educational programming related to nutrition, health and wellness, food safety, family resource management, aging issues, and family life in general. The Stay Strong, Stay Healthy workshop that focuses on strength, balance and flexibility, reached 70 individuals district wide in 2020. More workshops are scheduled for 2021.

I would be remiss not to mention our two experienced office professionals. Brenda Walton, in the Great Bend office, takes the lead with the finances for the district while Theresa Meis, in the Hays office, focuses on communicating our efforts through newsletters and our web site. Both Brenda and Theresa handle a multitude of other duties that keep our offices running smoothly.&nbsp;

It is great news that K-State Research and Extension has answers to many of life’s questions, typically at no or low cost. Unlike what you might find through a Google search, the answers we provide are research based and non-biased. I hope you will take a look at our Cottonwood web site and like our Cottonwood Facebook page. We hope to see you at some of our upcoming programs.&nbsp;

While our Cottonwood Executive Board remains the same for next year, it is not too early to consider stepping up and running for a position during 2021. There will be two positions on the ballot in both Barton and Ellis Counties next year. If you have questions about what serving on our board would entail, feel free to give me a call.

Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/6/1593016082485.png" alt="Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>It doesn’t seem possible that it has been three years since our Cottonwood Extension District formed, joining the K-State Research &amp; Extension operations for Barton and Ellis Counties. As our team of seven agents and two support staff work hard to bring research based, non-biased information to lifelong learners in our area, I am excited report some of the successes of 2020.I hope you have had an opportunity to utilize our services in the past year. 2020 provided many challenges for families, but some neat learning opportunities were created by those challenges. As virtual meetings and educational programs became the norm, participants, young and old, adapted to the world of technology.&nbsp;Perhaps your family is involved in 4-H or an after-school program. If so, we have two experienced agents, Michelle Beran and Susan Schlichting, leading the youth development program in the Cottonwood District. If you visit the Kansas 4-H web site you will find links to the Clover classroom with project challenges in photography, pollinators and communication, with more to come in 2021. &nbsp;Our District Agriculture and Natural Resource agents. Alicia Boor and Stacy Campbell, have specialized to focus on livestock programming and crops respectively. Both Alicia and Stacy have produced teaching videos related to hot topics that are posted on our Cottonwood District Face book page.Master gardeners in Ellis and Barton Counties receive guidance from our District Horticulture Agent, Lauren Fick. Lauren has worked hard to provide a fresh new look on our web sites’ horticulture page. She also prides herself in answering yard, garden and tree questions in a timely manner.&nbsp;And finally, Berny Unruh and I are committed to bringing Extension educational programming related to nutrition, health and wellness, food safety, family resource management, aging issues, and family life in general. The Stay Strong, Stay Healthy workshop that focuses on strength, balance and flexibility, reached 70 individuals district wide in 2020. More workshops are scheduled for 2021.I would be remiss not to mention our two experienced office professionals. Brenda Walton, in the Great Bend office, takes the lead with the finances for the district while Theresa Meis, in the Hays office, focuses on communicating our efforts through newsletters and our web site. Both Brenda and Theresa handle a multitude of other duties that keep our offices running smoothly.&nbsp;It is great news that K-State Research and Extension has answers to many of life’s questions, typically at no or low cost. Unlike what you might find through a Google search, the answers we provide are research based and non-biased. I hope you will take a look at our Cottonwood web site and like our Cottonwood Facebook page. We hope to see you at some of our upcoming programs.&nbsp;While our Cottonwood Executive Board remains the same for next year, it is not too early to consider stepping up and running for a position during 2021. There will be two positions on the ballot in both Barton and Ellis Counties next year. If you have questions about what serving on our board would entail, feel free to give me a call.Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

KRUG: Cottonwood Extension District making an impact

The best time to seed cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is September because the turf has more time to mature before spring crabgrass germination and the heat stress of summer. Dormant seeding of turfgrass is sometimes used to help fill in bare spots of lawns that weren't overseeded in the fall. Dormant overseeding is done during the winter (December – February) when it is much too cold for germination.

As with any seeding program, good seed-soil contact is vital. Several methods can be used. One method is to seed when there has been a light snowfall of up to an inch. This is shallow enough that bare spots can still be seen. Spread seed by hand on areas that need thickening up. As the snow melts, it brings the seed into good contact with the soil where it will germinate in the spring. Another method is dependent on the surface of the soil being moist followed by freezing weather. As moist soil freezes and thaws, small pockets are formed on the wet, bare soil that is perfect for catching and holding seed. As the soil dries, the pockets collapse and cover the seed. A third method involves core aerating, verticutting, or hand raking and broadcasting seed immediately after. Of course, the soil must be dry enough and unfrozen for this to be practical. With any of the above methods, the seed germinates in the spring as early as possible. There will be limitations on what herbicides can be used for weed control. Tupersan (siduron) can be used as a crabgrass preventer on new seedings even before they have come up. Also, dithiopyr, found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer, can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Dithiopyr is longer lasting and more effective than siduron. Other preemergence herbicides available to homeowners require that the turf be well established before application. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>The best time to seed cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is September because the turf has more time to mature before spring crabgrass germination and the heat stress of summer. Dormant seeding of turfgrass is sometimes used to help fill in bare spots of lawns that weren't overseeded in the fall. Dormant overseeding is done during the winter (December – February) when it is much too cold for germination.As with any seeding program, good seed-soil contact is vital. Several methods can be used. One method is to seed when there has been a light snowfall of up to an inch. This is shallow enough that bare spots can still be seen. Spread seed by hand on areas that need thickening up. As the snow melts, it brings the seed into good contact with the soil where it will germinate in the spring. Another method is dependent on the surface of the soil being moist followed by freezing weather. As moist soil freezes and thaws, small pockets are formed on the wet, bare soil that is perfect for catching and holding seed. As the soil dries, the pockets collapse and cover the seed. A third method involves core aerating, verticutting, or hand raking and broadcasting seed immediately after. Of course, the soil must be dry enough and unfrozen for this to be practical. With any of the above methods, the seed germinates in the spring as early as possible. There will be limitations on what herbicides can be used for weed control. Tupersan (siduron) can be used as a crabgrass preventer on new seedings even before they have come up. Also, dithiopyr, found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer, can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Dithiopyr is longer lasting and more effective than siduron. Other preemergence herbicides available to homeowners require that the turf be well established before application. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Dormant seeding of turfgrass    

Marie Margaret Billinger, age 93, of WaKeeney, KS, passed away November 21, 2020, at Trego County Lemke Memorial Hospital Long Term Care. Marie was born July 31, 1927, in Brownell, KS to August and Mary (Halblieb) Moos. &nbsp;

Marie was a graduate of Trego High School. On June 4, 1946, Marie Moos and Alvin Billinger were joined in marriage. She was a loving mother and doting grandma, a farmer, and lover of horticulture.

She was always available to spend time with her grandkids.&nbsp; She was a passionate gardener and florist who took much pride in her garden and flowers.&nbsp; Marie was eager to share her knowledge and would gladly answer questions about plants and flowers to anyone who would ask. Later in life, it brought Marie great joy sharing an ice cream with family and doing puzzles with her children and grandchildren. &nbsp;

Marie is survived by daughters Judy (Eddie) Bollig of WaKeeney and Janie Dixon of Decatur, TX; son Larry Billinger of Tulsa, OK; 13 grandchildren and 22 great-grandchildren.

Marie is preceded in death by her parents; husband Alvin; children Tim Billinger and Cathy Millard; 3 grandsons, Darin Bollig, John Eck and Heath Billinger; and 7 siblings.

Per the family's wishes, a private viewing and mass will be held at Christ the King Catholic Church, with burial to follow at Christ the King Cemetery. &nbsp;

Memorials may be made to Trego County Lemke Memorial Hospital Long Term Care or Masses. Donations to the organizations may be sent to Schmitt Funeral Home, 336 N. 12th St. WaKeeney, KS 67672.

Condolences may be left for the family by visiting www.schmittfuneral.com

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/11/1606153063479.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Marie Margaret Billinger, age 93, of WaKeeney, KS, passed away November 21, 2020, at Trego County Lemke Memorial Hospital Long Term Care. Marie was born July 31, 1927, in Brownell, KS to August and Mary (Halblieb) Moos. &nbsp;Marie was a graduate of Trego High School. On June 4, 1946, Marie Moos and Alvin Billinger were joined in marriage. She was a loving mother and doting grandma, a farmer, and lover of horticulture.She was always available to spend time with her grandkids.&nbsp; She was a passionate gardener and florist who took much pride in her garden and flowers.&nbsp; Marie was eager to share her knowledge and would gladly answer questions about plants and flowers to anyone who would ask. Later in life, it brought Marie great joy sharing an ice cream with family and doing puzzles with her children and grandchildren. &nbsp;Marie is survived by daughters Judy (Eddie) Bollig of WaKeeney and Janie Dixon of Decatur, TX; son Larry Billinger of Tulsa, OK; 13 grandchildren and 22 great-grandchildren.Marie is preceded in death by her parents; husband Alvin; children Tim Billinger and Cathy Millard; 3 grandsons, Darin Bollig, John Eck and Heath Billinger; and 7 siblings.Per the family's wishes, a private viewing and mass will be held at Christ the King Catholic Church, with burial to follow at Christ the King Cemetery. &nbsp;Memorials may be made to Trego County Lemke Memorial Hospital Long Term Care or Masses. Donations to the organizations may be sent to Schmitt Funeral Home, 336 N. 12th St. WaKeeney, KS 67672.Condolences may be left for the family by visiting www.schmittfuneral.com

Marie Margaret Billinger

This is the second year in a row where portions of Kansas suffered a quick drop in temperature after a warm fall. &nbsp;Unfortunately, some trees were not hardened off before this happened. Some trees will very likely be affected by this sharp drop in temperature. &nbsp;The first sign that a tree has been affected is marcescence in which trees that normally drop their leaves in the fall, don’t. &nbsp;Leaves don’t drop because they didn’t have enough time to develop an abscission layer at the base of each leaf that allowed it to fall. Though marcescence itself does not harm the tree, it is a clue that further damage may have occurred. &nbsp;Notice I said “may.” &nbsp;Trees that exhibit marcescence may be perfectly fine. Also, portions of the state that did not suffer this extreme drop in temperature should be good. &nbsp; It is possible that trees that show evidence of marcescence, may also have suffered damage to the living tissue under the bark. The sharp drop in temperature may damage at least a portion of the phloem and the cambium. Remember the phloem carries food made in the leaves to all parts of the plants including the roots. The cambium produces new phloem. &nbsp;If the phloem and cambium are killed, the cambium cannot produce new, living phloem, and, therefore, the roots don’t receive the food needed to survive and eventually starve to death. Trees so affected will not die immediately. &nbsp;First, a healthy root system has stored energy reserves that it can use to keep the tree alive. When those reserves are depleted, the tree will die very quickly. &nbsp;Usually, this occurs during the summer following the year the damage occurred. However, there is more to the story. &nbsp;Doesn’t a tree also need water? Since the living portion of the trunk was killed, wouldn’t this stop water flow? It would not. &nbsp;Xylem is the structure in the tree that carries water from the soil throughout the plant. &nbsp;

The reason the tree can still distribute water to the top portion of the tree is due to how a tree grows and, specifically, how xylem works. &nbsp;Even in perfectly healthy trees, most of the xylem is dead. Portions of this dead xylem form hollow tubes that carry most of the water and nutrients throughout the plant. Though there are living xylem cells, the contents of those cells make them inefficient in moving water. Therefore, the functional portion of the xylem wasn’t hurt by the freeze because it was already dead. Since this xylem system still works and provides water for the tree, the tree can live for quite a period until the roots starve. Remember, as stated before, trees with marcescence may be fine. &nbsp;Even if there was also damage to tree tissues, it all depends on how much of the living tissue under the bark was killed. If only a small portion is killed, then the tree may recover. If the entire circumference is killed, the tree is done for and there isn’t anything you can do to save it. Any portion of the trunk where the bark comes off and the underlying layer is brown is dead.​So, is there anything we can do now to help the trees? &nbsp;Since we don’t know the extent of the damage, if any, we need to ensure there is no further stress. &nbsp;Primarily, that means to water the tree as needed. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged until freezing temperatures are here to stay. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>This is the second year in a row where portions of Kansas suffered a quick drop in temperature after a warm fall. &nbsp;Unfortunately, some trees were not hardened off before this happened. Some trees will very likely be affected by this sharp drop in temperature. &nbsp;The first sign that a tree has been affected is marcescence in which trees that normally drop their leaves in the fall, don’t. &nbsp;Leaves don’t drop because they didn’t have enough time to develop an abscission layer at the base of each leaf that allowed it to fall. Though marcescence itself does not harm the tree, it is a clue that further damage may have occurred. &nbsp;Notice I said “may.” &nbsp;Trees that exhibit marcescence may be perfectly fine. Also, portions of the state that did not suffer this extreme drop in temperature should be good. &nbsp; It is possible that trees that show evidence of marcescence, may also have suffered damage to the living tissue under the bark. The sharp drop in temperature may damage at least a portion of the phloem and the cambium. Remember the phloem carries food made in the leaves to all parts of the plants including the roots. The cambium produces new phloem. &nbsp;If the phloem and cambium are killed, the cambium cannot produce new, living phloem, and, therefore, the roots don’t receive the food needed to survive and eventually starve to death. Trees so affected will not die immediately. &nbsp;First, a healthy root system has stored energy reserves that it can use to keep the tree alive. When those reserves are depleted, the tree will die very quickly. &nbsp;Usually, this occurs during the summer following the year the damage occurred. However, there is more to the story. &nbsp;Doesn’t a tree also need water? Since the living portion of the trunk was killed, wouldn’t this stop water flow? It would not. &nbsp;Xylem is the structure in the tree that carries water from the soil throughout the plant. &nbsp;The reason the tree can still distribute water to the top portion of the tree is due to how a tree grows and, specifically, how xylem works. &nbsp;Even in perfectly healthy trees, most of the xylem is dead. Portions of this dead xylem form hollow tubes that carry most of the water and nutrients throughout the plant. Though there are living xylem cells, the contents of those cells make them inefficient in moving water. Therefore, the functional portion of the xylem wasn’t hurt by the freeze because it was already dead. Since this xylem system still works and provides water for the tree, the tree can live for quite a period until the roots starve. Remember, as stated before, trees with marcescence may be fine. &nbsp;Even if there was also damage to tree tissues, it all depends on how much of the living tissue under the bark was killed. If only a small portion is killed, then the tree may recover. If the entire circumference is killed, the tree is done for and there isn’t anything you can do to save it. Any portion of the trunk where the bark comes off and the underlying layer is brown is dead.​So, is there anything we can do now to help the trees? &nbsp;Since we don’t know the extent of the damage, if any, we need to ensure there is no further stress. &nbsp;Primarily, that means to water the tree as needed. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged until freezing temperatures are here to stay. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

FICK: Sharp temperature drop a cause for concern for trees

Celebrate the holidays with a beautiful, live wreath. Join Cottonwood Extension's Lauren Fick for an evening of floral design and wreath building. 

In this workshop, participants will join via zoom and have a full hour of creative time, while Lauren guides you through the basic floral design principles. 

Participants will learn how to create a modern door wreath with fresh, winter greenery. Each paying participant will receive a box of materials that include a 16" wreath frame, over 7' of live greenery, a wreath hanger, pinecones, floral wire, and more. Lauren will teach about the different types of greenery and techniques for using them in a wreath or floral design.&nbsp;The best part about this workshop is that you get to participate from the comfort of your own home.

The workshop will take place on Thursday, Dec. 3, at 7:30pm. For participants who would like materials the cost is $35 per participant and there is a limited amount of materials available (first 25 people). Registration closes on Nov. 16 at 5:00PM. For participants who want materials they must register and pay by Nov. 16 to secure their spot. Participants who are interested in the free Zoom link are asked to call the office by Nov. 16 to register. Further details will be sent out via email after registration is complete.&nbsp; Call 785-628-9430 to register.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Cottonwood ExtensionCelebrate the holidays with a beautiful, live wreath. Join Cottonwood Extension's Lauren Fick for an evening of floral design and wreath building. In this workshop, participants will join via zoom and have a full hour of creative time, while Lauren guides you through the basic floral design principles. Participants will learn how to create a modern door wreath with fresh, winter greenery. Each paying participant will receive a box of materials that include a 16" wreath frame, over 7' of live greenery, a wreath hanger, pinecones, floral wire, and more. Lauren will teach about the different types of greenery and techniques for using them in a wreath or floral design.&nbsp;The best part about this workshop is that you get to participate from the comfort of your own home. The workshop will take place on Thursday, Dec. 3, at 7:30pm. For participants who would like materials the cost is $35 per participant and there is a limited amount of materials available (first 25 people). Registration closes on Nov. 16 at 5:00PM. For participants who want materials they must register and pay by Nov. 16 to secure their spot. Participants who are interested in the free Zoom link are asked to call the office by Nov. 16 to register. Further details will be sent out via email after registration is complete.&nbsp; Call 785-628-9430 to register.

FICK: Holiday wreath workshop

I always love the changing of the seasons, especially summer to fall. After the heat of the summer, the cool, crisp mornings and cooler days makes me happy. One of the first signs that I can tell that summer is on its way out is the first leaves on the cottonwood trees starting to turn yellow. The reds and oranges of the maples and oaks quickly follow suite. &nbsp;Although the New England states is the place to view the changing of the seasons, Kansas is no slouch. I found an article this week for you for the Horticulture Department about why trees change the colors they do and how you get the striking colors of fall.&nbsp;

&nbsp;Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.&nbsp;

Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.&nbsp;

If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.&nbsp;

Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.&nbsp;

Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.&nbsp;

The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu">aboor@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>I always love the changing of the seasons, especially summer to fall. After the heat of the summer, the cool, crisp mornings and cooler days makes me happy. One of the first signs that I can tell that summer is on its way out is the first leaves on the cottonwood trees starting to turn yellow. The reds and oranges of the maples and oaks quickly follow suite. &nbsp;Although the New England states is the place to view the changing of the seasons, Kansas is no slouch. I found an article this week for you for the Horticulture Department about why trees change the colors they do and how you get the striking colors of fall.&nbsp;&nbsp;Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.&nbsp;Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.&nbsp;If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.&nbsp;Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.&nbsp;Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.&nbsp;The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.&nbsp;&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu">aboor@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;

BOOR: A closer look at the colors of fall

Houseplants need varying amounts of water and fertilizer at different times of the year. They need the most during summer when light levels are high and days are long. They need the least during the short days of winter. 

The primary reason for this is light. &nbsp;Light produces the fuel for plant growth. More light allows more growth, which results in a greater demand for water and nutrients. When light is limiting, the need for water and nutrients decreases dramatically. Therefore, it becomes easy to overwater and overfertilize during the winter months. Excess water and fertilizer can harm a plant by damaging the root system. 

Overwatering can suffocate roots by eliminating oxygen and excess fertilizer can burn roots. &nbsp;Therefore, it is best not to fertilize at all during the middle of winter (December-January) and to fertilize sparingly during November and February (maybe 1/4 a normal rate).​It is never wise to water on a set schedule. 

Rather, allow the potting soil to tell you when watering is needed. Check to see if the soil is moist 1-inch deep by inserting your finger into the potting mix. Don't water unless the mix is dry.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Houseplants need varying amounts of water and fertilizer at different times of the year. They need the most during summer when light levels are high and days are long. They need the least during the short days of winter. The primary reason for this is light. &nbsp;Light produces the fuel for plant growth. More light allows more growth, which results in a greater demand for water and nutrients. When light is limiting, the need for water and nutrients decreases dramatically. Therefore, it becomes easy to overwater and overfertilize during the winter months. Excess water and fertilizer can harm a plant by damaging the root system. Overwatering can suffocate roots by eliminating oxygen and excess fertilizer can burn roots. &nbsp;Therefore, it is best not to fertilize at all during the middle of winter (December-January) and to fertilize sparingly during November and February (maybe 1/4 a normal rate).​It is never wise to water on a set schedule. Rather, allow the potting soil to tell you when watering is needed. Check to see if the soil is moist 1-inch deep by inserting your finger into the potting mix. Don't water unless the mix is dry.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Caring for houseplants during the winter months

MANHATTAN — The Kansas Department of Agriculture (KDA) has funds available for reimbursement to Kansas specialty crop growers who attend an educational conference with a primary focus on specialty crops. Qualifying conferences may include sessions about production practices, specialized equipment and technology, pest and disease management, specialty crop marketing practices, or business principles for specialty crop producers.

Applicants who apply for the reimbursement will be required to attend the conference between December 2020 and June 2021 and to complete surveys before, immediately after and six months post-conference prior to payment being issued. 

Conferences not eligible will include those within the state of Kansas and the Great Plains Growers Conference. 

KDA will reimburse Kansas specialty crop growers up to $850 each in order to offset the cost of their conference registration, mileage/flights, hotel, meals, etc.&nbsp; The award is available on a first-come, first-served basis. The deadline for application is December 18, 2020.&nbsp;

Examples of conferences that may be eligible for applicants to attend include, but are not limited to:

This program is made possible by a U.S. Department of Agriculture Specialty Crop Block Grant (SCBG). The SCBG makes funds available to state departments of agriculture solely to enhance the competitiveness of specialty crops. 

According to USDA, specialty crops are defined as “fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits, horticulture and nursery crops, including floriculture.”

This grant fits KDA’s mission to provide an environment that enhances and encourages economic growth of the agriculture industry and the Kansas economy.

For application details, go to the KDA website at&nbsp;<a href="https://gcc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fagriculture.ks.gov%2Fkda-services%2Fgrants-and-cost-share-programs%2Fspecialty-crop-grower-conference-grant&amp;data=04%7C01%7C%7C43968e0a70aa4cd920d108d87437984d%7Cdcae8101c92d480cbc43c6761ccccc5a%7C0%7C0%7C637387129904771827%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&amp;sdata=cSYGCV%2B32pXHXEskIbEsBYeYi%2BUwm56jhuBTTPWGD4c%3D&amp;reserved=0" target="_blank">agriculture.ks.gov/grants</a>. Questions should be directed to Sammy Gleason,&nbsp;From the Land of Kansas&nbsp;program coordinator, at 785-564-6755 or&nbsp;<a href="mailto:Sammy.Gleason@ks.gov" target="_blank">Sammy.Gleason@ks.gov</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/10/1603232188673.jpeg" alt="(Photo courtesy Kansas Specialty Crop Growers Association)" />
 <figcaption>(Photo courtesy Kansas Specialty Crop Growers Association)</figcaption>
 </figure>KDAMANHATTAN — The Kansas Department of Agriculture (KDA) has funds available for reimbursement to Kansas specialty crop growers who attend an educational conference with a primary focus on specialty crops. Qualifying conferences may include sessions about production practices, specialized equipment and technology, pest and disease management, specialty crop marketing practices, or business principles for specialty crop producers.Applicants who apply for the reimbursement will be required to attend the conference between December 2020 and June 2021 and to complete surveys before, immediately after and six months post-conference prior to payment being issued. Conferences not eligible will include those within the state of Kansas and the Great Plains Growers Conference. KDA will reimburse Kansas specialty crop growers up to $850 each in order to offset the cost of their conference registration, mileage/flights, hotel, meals, etc.&nbsp; The award is available on a first-come, first-served basis. The deadline for application is December 18, 2020.&nbsp;Examples of conferences that may be eligible for applicants to attend include, but are not limited to:<ul>
 <li>Great Lakes Expo Fruit, Vegetable, and Farm Market, December 8-10, 2020, Virtual</li><li>Southeast Regional Fruit &amp; Vegetable Conference, January 5-7, 2021, Virtual</li><li>North American Strawberry Growers Association Conference, January 18-20, 2021, Virtual</li><li>Unified Wine &amp; Grape Symposium, January 26-29, 2021, Sacramento, California</li><li>American Society for Enology and Viticulture National Conference, June 21-24, 2021, Monterey, California</li>
 </ul>This program is made possible by a U.S. Department of Agriculture Specialty Crop Block Grant (SCBG). The SCBG makes funds available to state departments of agriculture solely to enhance the competitiveness of specialty crops. According to USDA, specialty crops are defined as “fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits, horticulture and nursery crops, including floriculture.”This grant fits KDA’s mission to provide an environment that enhances and encourages economic growth of the agriculture industry and the Kansas economy.For application details, go to the KDA website at&nbsp;<a href="https://gcc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fagriculture.ks.gov%2Fkda-services%2Fgrants-and-cost-share-programs%2Fspecialty-crop-grower-conference-grant&amp;data=04%7C01%7C%7C43968e0a70aa4cd920d108d87437984d%7Cdcae8101c92d480cbc43c6761ccccc5a%7C0%7C0%7C637387129904771827%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&amp;sdata=cSYGCV%2B32pXHXEskIbEsBYeYi%2BUwm56jhuBTTPWGD4c%3D&amp;reserved=0" target="_blank">agriculture.ks.gov/grants</a>. Questions should be directed to Sammy Gleason,&nbsp;From the Land of Kansas&nbsp;program coordinator, at 785-564-6755 or&nbsp;<a href="mailto:Sammy.Gleason@ks.gov" target="_blank">Sammy.Gleason@ks.gov</a>.