Gardeners are eager to get out and do something in the landscape this time of year. One chore that can be taken care of now is pruning certain shrubs. Often, gardeners approach pruning with trepidation, but it is not as difficult as it may seem. Remember, not all shrubs need to be pruned (i.e., witch hazel), and certain shrubs, which will be identified later, should not be pruned this time of year. Shrubs are pruned to maintain or reduce the size, rejuvenate growth, or to remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches. Deciduous shrubs are those that lose their leaves each winter. Evergreen shrubs maintain foliage all year and include yews and junipers. Deciduous shrubs are placed into three groups:&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower in the spring on wood produced last year.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower later in the year on current seasons’ growth; and&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that may produce flowers, but those flowers are of little ornamental value.

Shrubs that flower in the spring should not be pruned until immediately after flowering. &nbsp;Though pruning earlier will not harm the health of the plant, the flowering display will be reduced. Examples of these types of plants include forsythia, lilac, and mock orange. Shrubs that bloom on current seasons’ growth or that do not produce ornamental flowers are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Examples include Rose-of-Sharon, pyracantha, Bumald spirea, and Japanese spirea. Pruning during the spring allows wounds to heal quickly without threat from insects or disease. There is no need to treat pruning cuts with paints or sealers. In fact, some of these products may slow healing. There are three basic methods used in pruning shrubs: thinning, heading back, and rejuvenating. Thinning is used to thin out branches from a shrub that is too dense. It is accomplished by removing most of the inward growing twigs by cutting them back to a larger branch. On multi-stemmed shrubs, the oldest canes may be removed entirely. Heading back is done by removing the end of a branch by cutting it back to a bud and is used for either reducing height or keeping a shrub compact. Branches are not cut back to a uniform height because this results in a "witches-broom" effect.​Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large, with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes. All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This is not recommended for all shrubs but does work well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, little leaf mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Gardeners are eager to get out and do something in the landscape this time of year. One chore that can be taken care of now is pruning certain shrubs. Often, gardeners approach pruning with trepidation, but it is not as difficult as it may seem. Remember, not all shrubs need to be pruned (i.e., witch hazel), and certain shrubs, which will be identified later, should not be pruned this time of year. Shrubs are pruned to maintain or reduce the size, rejuvenate growth, or to remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches. Deciduous shrubs are those that lose their leaves each winter. Evergreen shrubs maintain foliage all year and include yews and junipers. Deciduous shrubs are placed into three groups:&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower in the spring on wood produced last year.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that flower later in the year on current seasons’ growth; and&nbsp; &nbsp; - Those that may produce flowers, but those flowers are of little ornamental value.Shrubs that flower in the spring should not be pruned until immediately after flowering. &nbsp;Though pruning earlier will not harm the health of the plant, the flowering display will be reduced. Examples of these types of plants include forsythia, lilac, and mock orange. Shrubs that bloom on current seasons’ growth or that do not produce ornamental flowers are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Examples include Rose-of-Sharon, pyracantha, Bumald spirea, and Japanese spirea. Pruning during the spring allows wounds to heal quickly without threat from insects or disease. There is no need to treat pruning cuts with paints or sealers. In fact, some of these products may slow healing. There are three basic methods used in pruning shrubs: thinning, heading back, and rejuvenating. Thinning is used to thin out branches from a shrub that is too dense. It is accomplished by removing most of the inward growing twigs by cutting them back to a larger branch. On multi-stemmed shrubs, the oldest canes may be removed entirely. Heading back is done by removing the end of a branch by cutting it back to a bud and is used for either reducing height or keeping a shrub compact. Branches are not cut back to a uniform height because this results in a "witches-broom" effect.​Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large, with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes. All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This is not recommended for all shrubs but does work well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, little leaf mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Pruning deciduous shrubs

The following suggestions are for cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss are warm-season grasses and require a different maintenance regime. A warm-season grass calendar will be covered in a later article. MarchSpot treat broadleaf weeds if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness. April Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products mentioned in this calendar. Remember that a good, thick lawn is the best weed prevention and may be all that is needed. May Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce the effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in. June through Mid-July Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application. These two products normally provide season-long control with a single application. Remember to water it in. If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid during the first half of July. This works to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with 1/4" of water. Late-July through August If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid is effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops. September Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer. November&nbsp; Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours reduces effectiveness. Use label rates for all products! Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>The following suggestions are for cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Zoysiagrass, bermudagrass, and buffalograss are warm-season grasses and require a different maintenance regime. A warm-season grass calendar will be covered in a later article. MarchSpot treat broadleaf weeds if necessary. Treat on a day that is 50 degrees or warmer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce effectiveness. April Apply crabgrass preventer when redbud trees are in full bloom, usually in April. The preventer needs to be watered in before it will start to work. One-quarter inch of water will be enough to water in any of the products mentioned in this calendar. Remember that a good, thick lawn is the best weed prevention and may be all that is needed. May Fertilize with a slow-release fertilizer if you water your lawn or if you normally receive enough rainfall that your turf doesn’t go drought-dormant during the summer. If there are broadleaf weeds, spot treat with a spray or use a fertilizer that includes a weed killer. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours of application will reduce the effectiveness of the weed killer, but the fertilizer needs to be watered in. If you are using a product that has both fertilizer and weed killer, wait 24 hours after application before watering in. June through Mid-July Apply second round of crabgrass preventer by June 15 – unless you have used Dimension (dithiopyr) or Barricade (prodiamine) for the April application. These two products normally provide season-long control with a single application. Remember to water it in. If grubs have been a problem in the past, apply a product containing imidacloprid during the first half of July. This works to prevent grub damage. If rainfall does not occur within 24 hours, irrigate with 1/4" of water. Late-July through August If you see grub damage, apply a grub killer that contains Dylox. Imidacloprid is effective against young grubs but may not be effective on late instar grubs. The grub killer containing Dylox must be watered in within 24 hours or effectiveness drops. September Fertilize around Labor Day. This is the most important fertilization of the year. Water in the fertilizer. November&nbsp; Fertilize. This fertilizer is taken up by the roots but is not used until the following spring. Water in fertilizer. Spray for broadleaf weeds even if they are small. Broadleaf weeds are much easier to control in the fall than in the spring. Try to spray on a day that is at least 50 degrees. Rain or irrigation within 24 hours reduces effectiveness. Use label rates for all products! Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​FICK: Lawn calendar for cool-season grasses

Everyone knows that someone stranded in the ocean should not drink the water. The salt content of that water will make a bad situation worse. &nbsp;What many people don’t realize is that this same principle can harm plants. Fertilizers are salts or are converted to salts before plant take-up. They must be salts in order for the plant roots to absorb them. &nbsp;However, salt levels can build up over time and eventually may harm plant roots leading to scorched leaves and unhealthy plants. Though this can happen under field conditions, especially in low rainfall areas, it is particularly critical with houseplants. Houseplants have a certain soil volume that doesn’t change until a plant is repotted. Salt build-up can be a crucial concern especially if the houseplants are fertilized so heavily that the plants can’t use all the nutrients and fertilizer salts build-up. &nbsp;This is especially common in winter when houseplants do not use much fertilizer due to low levels of light.​Leaching an overabundance of salts can be an important practice to ensure the health of our houseplants.

Leaching is not a complicated or difficult process. It consists of adding enough water to wash out excess salts.How much water is enough? Add the amount of water that would equal twice the volume of the pot. This, of course, would need to be done outside or in a bathtub or sink. Water must be added slowly so that it doesn’t overflow the rim of the pot. If salt has formed a crust on the surface of the soil, remove it but don’t take more than 1/4 inch of the underlying media. This may also be a good time to repot the plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Everyone knows that someone stranded in the ocean should not drink the water. The salt content of that water will make a bad situation worse. &nbsp;What many people don’t realize is that this same principle can harm plants. Fertilizers are salts or are converted to salts before plant take-up. They must be salts in order for the plant roots to absorb them. &nbsp;However, salt levels can build up over time and eventually may harm plant roots leading to scorched leaves and unhealthy plants. Though this can happen under field conditions, especially in low rainfall areas, it is particularly critical with houseplants. Houseplants have a certain soil volume that doesn’t change until a plant is repotted. Salt build-up can be a crucial concern especially if the houseplants are fertilized so heavily that the plants can’t use all the nutrients and fertilizer salts build-up. &nbsp;This is especially common in winter when houseplants do not use much fertilizer due to low levels of light.​Leaching an overabundance of salts can be an important practice to ensure the health of our houseplants. Leaching is not a complicated or difficult process. It consists of adding enough water to wash out excess salts.How much water is enough? Add the amount of water that would equal twice the volume of the pot. This, of course, would need to be done outside or in a bathtub or sink. Water must be added slowly so that it doesn’t overflow the rim of the pot. If salt has formed a crust on the surface of the soil, remove it but don’t take more than 1/4 inch of the underlying media. This may also be a good time to repot the plant. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Leaching houseplants 

Severe winter weather is not only hard on people but can be a life and death struggle for birds. Though birds also require water and shelter, food is often the resource most lacking during cold weather. Many different bird food mixes are available because various species often prefer different grains. However, there is one seed that has more universal appeal than any other: black oil sunflower. If you are new to the bird-feeding game, make sure there is a high percentage of this seed in your mix. White proso millet is second in popularity and is the favorite of dark-eyed juncos and other sparrows as well as the red-winged blackbird. As you become more interested in bird feeding, you may want to use more than one feeder to attract specific species of birds. Following is a list of bird species with the grains they prefer.&nbsp;

• Cardinal, evening grosbeak, and most finch species – sunflower seeds, all types. • Rufous-sided towhee – white proso millet. • Dark-eyed junco – white and red proso millet, canary seed, finely cracked corn. • Many sparrow species – white and red proso millet. • Bluejay – peanut kernels and sunflower seeds of all types. • Chickadee and tufted titmouse – peanut kernels, oil (black), and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-breasted nuthatch – oil (black) and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Brown thrasher – hulled and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-winged blackbird – white and red proso millet plus German (golden) millet. • Mourning dove – oil (black) sunflower seeds, white and red proso plus German (golden)millet.

Extended cold periods can also make water unavailable. A heated birdbath can be a tremendous draw for birds during times when all other water is frozen. Energy use is usually less than what most people expect IF the heater has a built-in thermostat. If you would like more information, Chuck Otte, Agriculture Extension Agent for Geary County has a series of backyard birding guides at<a href="http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm">http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm</a>

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Severe winter weather is not only hard on people but can be a life and death struggle for birds. Though birds also require water and shelter, food is often the resource most lacking during cold weather. Many different bird food mixes are available because various species often prefer different grains. However, there is one seed that has more universal appeal than any other: black oil sunflower. If you are new to the bird-feeding game, make sure there is a high percentage of this seed in your mix. White proso millet is second in popularity and is the favorite of dark-eyed juncos and other sparrows as well as the red-winged blackbird. As you become more interested in bird feeding, you may want to use more than one feeder to attract specific species of birds. Following is a list of bird species with the grains they prefer.&nbsp;• Cardinal, evening grosbeak, and most finch species – sunflower seeds, all types. • Rufous-sided towhee – white proso millet. • Dark-eyed junco – white and red proso millet, canary seed, finely cracked corn. • Many sparrow species – white and red proso millet. • Bluejay – peanut kernels and sunflower seeds of all types. • Chickadee and tufted titmouse – peanut kernels, oil (black), and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-breasted nuthatch – oil (black) and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Brown thrasher – hulled and black-striped sunflower seeds. • Red-winged blackbird – white and red proso millet plus German (golden) millet. • Mourning dove – oil (black) sunflower seeds, white and red proso plus German (golden)millet.Extended cold periods can also make water unavailable. A heated birdbath can be a tremendous draw for birds during times when all other water is frozen. Energy use is usually less than what most people expect IF the heater has a built-in thermostat. If you would like more information, Chuck Otte, Agriculture Extension Agent for Geary County has a series of backyard birding guides at<a href="http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm">http://gearycountyextension.com/NRMW.htm</a> Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Bird feeding

Miniature roses are dwarf versions of roses including the classic hybrid teas. Though they are much smaller (12 to15 inches tall or less), they are surprisingly tough and can be planted outside where they will survive our Kansas winters if mulched. However, many gardeners like to grow the miniatures indoors where they can enjoy them during the drab winter months. Miniature roses grown as houseplants have specific requirements. For long-lasting flowers, air should be moist with a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent preferred though 40 percent is adequate. Placing the pots on a tray that holds moist pebbles will help provide the humidity needed.Like most plants, roses need a lot of light to flower. Though miniature roses will survive in a south window, many people will supplement available light with fluorescent lamps. Timers can be used to automatically turn the lights on and off. Providing 14 hours of light per day will be plenty for roses to grow and flower. Lights are normally spaced 3 to 4 inches above the tops of the plants.

The most serious pest of these plants indoors is spider mites. These mites are very small but can devastate miniature roses. They like dry, warm conditions. Maintaining adequate relative humidity levels and washing the plants once a week in tepid water will help prevent problems. If mites do develop, try using an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (2 percent rate) for control. The horticultural oil will be more effective than the soap. Be sure to spray or wash the entire plant including the underside of the leaves so that all mites are contacted.

Miniature roses can be placed outdoors during the summer to take advantage of higher light levels. Do not place the plant in the full sun immediately but gradually grant less light over a period of several weeks. Pots sunk in the ground will not need to be watered as often as those exposed. Turn the pot 180 degrees every couple of weeks to break off any roots that escape the pot and move into the underlying soil.&nbsp;

Miniature roses are not the easiest plants to grow as houseplants but can be well worth the effort required. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Miniature roses are dwarf versions of roses including the classic hybrid teas. Though they are much smaller (12 to15 inches tall or less), they are surprisingly tough and can be planted outside where they will survive our Kansas winters if mulched. However, many gardeners like to grow the miniatures indoors where they can enjoy them during the drab winter months. Miniature roses grown as houseplants have specific requirements. For long-lasting flowers, air should be moist with a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent preferred though 40 percent is adequate. Placing the pots on a tray that holds moist pebbles will help provide the humidity needed.Like most plants, roses need a lot of light to flower. Though miniature roses will survive in a south window, many people will supplement available light with fluorescent lamps. Timers can be used to automatically turn the lights on and off. Providing 14 hours of light per day will be plenty for roses to grow and flower. Lights are normally spaced 3 to 4 inches above the tops of the plants.The most serious pest of these plants indoors is spider mites. These mites are very small but can devastate miniature roses. They like dry, warm conditions. Maintaining adequate relative humidity levels and washing the plants once a week in tepid water will help prevent problems. If mites do develop, try using an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil (2 percent rate) for control. The horticultural oil will be more effective than the soap. Be sure to spray or wash the entire plant including the underside of the leaves so that all mites are contacted.Miniature roses can be placed outdoors during the summer to take advantage of higher light levels. Do not place the plant in the full sun immediately but gradually grant less light over a period of several weeks. Pots sunk in the ground will not need to be watered as often as those exposed. Turn the pot 180 degrees every couple of weeks to break off any roots that escape the pot and move into the underlying soil.&nbsp;Miniature roses are not the easiest plants to grow as houseplants but can be well worth the effort required. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

FICK: Miniature roses

Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall, 70, passed away
 Jan. 13, 2021, in Mesa, Ariz. with family at her side. She was born Dec.
 8, 1950, in Leavenworth, Kan., the daughter of Marvin and Bessie 
(Poole) Murphy.

She graduated from Park Hill High School in 1968 and on Oct. 30, 
1969, she married John Dale Crandall in Kansas City, Mo. John and Glenda
 lived in the Kansas City area a few more years before moving to the 
frontier of Alaska in 1978 where they owned and operated Willow Creek 
Grocery. Their son, Jacob, was born in Alaska. After returning to 
Missouri, Glenda worked for many years as a Product Manager for Z 
International, living in the Kansas City area and later in rural 
Sullivan County, Mo. Upon retirement, she and John moved to Kearney, Mo.

Glenda is preceded in death by her parents Marvin and Bessie, and her
 husband, John. She is survived by her son Jacob Crandall and wife 
Abigail of Hays, Kan. Other survivors include: sister Brenda Martin, 
Farley, Mo.; sister Beth Bernard, Fayetteville, Ark.; brother Melvin 
(Judy) Murphy of Grandview, Mo., along with numerous nieces and nephews.

Glenda will be remembered by all for her ability to brighten up any 
room with her smile and engage people with her stories. She was well 
known for her generous nature, kindness, and compassion for others. 
Glenda loved to ensure her friends and family were well cared for and 
enjoyed being involved with her church families by decorating, providing
 flowers, and cooking/serving meals in her communities. Her hobbies 
included creating beautiful quilts, horticulture, boating, traveling for
 any adventure, and taking care of her “boys.” She was also very 
involved with her son’s activities throughout high school, college and 
into his married/professional life.Most recently, Glenda lived in 
Blockton, Iowa and enjoyed “snow-birding” in Arizona during the winter 
months.

Visitation will be Friday, Jan. 22, 2021, from 3p.m. to 6p.m., and 
funeral services Saturday, Jan. 23, 2021, at 10a.m., both at Park Lawn 
Northland Chapel, Liberty, Mo. Burial to follow at Second Creek 
Cemetery, Platte County, Mo.

Memorials are suggested to Blockton Christian Church, Blockton, Iowa in care of the funeral home.

Due to COVID-19 concerns if you have a cough, fever or are not 
feeling well, you may share a message with the family or sign an online 
guest book via www.parklawnfunerals.com. Services will be live streamed 
by visiting Glenda's obituary at upcoming services/view service times at
 www.parklawnfunerals.com . Social distancing and wearing masks is 
requested by the family at the visitation and funeral services. 
Arrangements: Park Lawn Northland Chapel (816) 781-8228.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/1/1611254116635.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall, 70, passed away
 Jan. 13, 2021, in Mesa, Ariz. with family at her side. She was born Dec.
 8, 1950, in Leavenworth, Kan., the daughter of Marvin and Bessie 
(Poole) Murphy.She graduated from Park Hill High School in 1968 and on Oct. 30, 
1969, she married John Dale Crandall in Kansas City, Mo. John and Glenda
 lived in the Kansas City area a few more years before moving to the 
frontier of Alaska in 1978 where they owned and operated Willow Creek 
Grocery. Their son, Jacob, was born in Alaska. After returning to 
Missouri, Glenda worked for many years as a Product Manager for Z 
International, living in the Kansas City area and later in rural 
Sullivan County, Mo. Upon retirement, she and John moved to Kearney, Mo.Glenda is preceded in death by her parents Marvin and Bessie, and her
 husband, John. She is survived by her son Jacob Crandall and wife 
Abigail of Hays, Kan. Other survivors include: sister Brenda Martin, 
Farley, Mo.; sister Beth Bernard, Fayetteville, Ark.; brother Melvin 
(Judy) Murphy of Grandview, Mo., along with numerous nieces and nephews.Glenda will be remembered by all for her ability to brighten up any 
room with her smile and engage people with her stories. She was well 
known for her generous nature, kindness, and compassion for others. 
Glenda loved to ensure her friends and family were well cared for and 
enjoyed being involved with her church families by decorating, providing
 flowers, and cooking/serving meals in her communities. Her hobbies 
included creating beautiful quilts, horticulture, boating, traveling for
 any adventure, and taking care of her “boys.” She was also very 
involved with her son’s activities throughout high school, college and 
into his married/professional life.Most recently, Glenda lived in 
Blockton, Iowa and enjoyed “snow-birding” in Arizona during the winter 
months.Visitation will be Friday, Jan. 22, 2021, from 3p.m. to 6p.m., and 
funeral services Saturday, Jan. 23, 2021, at 10a.m., both at Park Lawn 
Northland Chapel, Liberty, Mo. Burial to follow at Second Creek 
Cemetery, Platte County, Mo.Memorials are suggested to Blockton Christian Church, Blockton, Iowa in care of the funeral home.Due to COVID-19 concerns if you have a cough, fever or are not 
feeling well, you may share a message with the family or sign an online 
guest book via www.parklawnfunerals.com. Services will be live streamed 
by visiting Glenda's obituary at upcoming services/view service times at
 www.parklawnfunerals.com . Social distancing and wearing masks is 
requested by the family at the visitation and funeral services. 
Arrangements: Park Lawn Northland Chapel (816) 781-8228.

Glenda Kay (Murphy) Crandall

Research from K-State’s John C. Pair Horticultural Center has quantified the effect of controlling grasses around newly planted trees. Jason Griffin, William Reid, and Dale Bremer conducted a study to investigate the inhibition of growth of transplanted, seedling trees when lawn grasses could grow up to the trunk. There were five treatments, including three with different species of grass: &nbsp; 1. Bare soil maintained with herbicides.&nbsp; 2. Area under tree mulched 3 inches deep.&nbsp; 3. Tall fescue allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 4. Bermudagrass allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 5. Kentucky bluegrass allowed to grow under tree. All treatments were applied to Eastern redbud seedlings as well as to pecan seedlings. All trees were fertilized according to recommendations and watered during the growing season with up to 1 inch of water if rainfall was deficient. At the end of two years, trees were measured and harvested. Data was taken on caliper (diameter) 6 inches above the ground, weight of aboveground portions of the tree, leaf area, and leaf weight. There were no differences in any measure between the mulched treatment and the bare soil treatment for either tree species. All measures showed significant growth increases if lawn grasses were controlled around the tree. Results include the following:&nbsp; 1. Caliper: Caliper measures 6 inches above the soil surface were twice as large for plots without grass than for those with either fescue or bluegrass, but only 50% larger when compared to the bermudagrass plots. &nbsp; 2. Top growth weight: Redbuds showed a 300% weight advantage for plots with grasses controlled than those without. Pecans showed a significant 200% increase. &nbsp; 3. Leaf area and leaf weight: Leaf areas were 200% larger in plots without grass competition and leaf weight showed a 300% increase. &nbsp;The obvious conclusion from this study is that grasses must be controlled under a newly transplanted tree to get the best possible growth. Though there were no differences in growth whether mulch was used or not, you may still wish to mulch for aesthetic reasons or to help control weed growth. How far from the trunk should the grasses be controlled? Try a minimum of 3 feet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Research from K-State’s John C. Pair Horticultural Center has quantified the effect of controlling grasses around newly planted trees. Jason Griffin, William Reid, and Dale Bremer conducted a study to investigate the inhibition of growth of transplanted, seedling trees when lawn grasses could grow up to the trunk. There were five treatments, including three with different species of grass: &nbsp; 1. Bare soil maintained with herbicides.&nbsp; 2. Area under tree mulched 3 inches deep.&nbsp; 3. Tall fescue allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 4. Bermudagrass allowed to grow under tree.&nbsp; 5. Kentucky bluegrass allowed to grow under tree. All treatments were applied to Eastern redbud seedlings as well as to pecan seedlings. All trees were fertilized according to recommendations and watered during the growing season with up to 1 inch of water if rainfall was deficient. At the end of two years, trees were measured and harvested. Data was taken on caliper (diameter) 6 inches above the ground, weight of aboveground portions of the tree, leaf area, and leaf weight. There were no differences in any measure between the mulched treatment and the bare soil treatment for either tree species. All measures showed significant growth increases if lawn grasses were controlled around the tree. Results include the following:&nbsp; 1. Caliper: Caliper measures 6 inches above the soil surface were twice as large for plots without grass than for those with either fescue or bluegrass, but only 50% larger when compared to the bermudagrass plots. &nbsp; 2. Top growth weight: Redbuds showed a 300% weight advantage for plots with grasses controlled than those without. Pecans showed a significant 200% increase. &nbsp; 3. Leaf area and leaf weight: Leaf areas were 200% larger in plots without grass competition and leaf weight showed a 300% increase. &nbsp;The obvious conclusion from this study is that grasses must be controlled under a newly transplanted tree to get the best possible growth. Though there were no differences in growth whether mulch was used or not, you may still wish to mulch for aesthetic reasons or to help control weed growth. How far from the trunk should the grasses be controlled? Try a minimum of 3 feet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Start trees off right 

If you are considering purchasing fruit trees this spring, there are certain factors that should be considered for some of our fruit tree species. &nbsp;Spring in Kansas is often unsettled with apricot and peach tree flowers being very vulnerable to late frosts that can kill fruit buds. Of course, the tree itself will be fine but there will be little to no fruit for that year. 

Other species of trees can also be affected but apricots and peaches are by far the most sensitive. &nbsp;Also, the closer a tree is to full bloom, the more sensitive it becomes to frost.

Apricots are more likely to have frost kill flowers than peaches because they bloom a bit earlier. Though there are late-blooming apricot varieties, the differences between full bloom on early and late-blooming varieties appear to be slight. Research at Virginia Tech in the '90s showed a maximum of a 4-day difference between early and late varieties. However, in some years that may be all that is needed. The trees in the study that were considered late blooming included Hungarian Rose, Tilton, and Harlayne. Harglow was not included in the study but is also considered late-blooming. 

See&nbsp;<a href="https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html">https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html</a>for more info.​Peaches are next on the list for being likely to be caught by a late frost. With peaches, two characteristics become important when considering whether they will be damaged. Like apricots, bloom time is very important but fruit bud hardiness should also be considered. In this case, fruit bud hardiness refers to hardiness to late frosts rather than the ability to survive extremely low temperatures during the winter. Late bloomers included ‘China Pearl’, ‘Encore’, ‘Intrepid’, and ‘Risingstar.’ See&nbsp;<a href="http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf">http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;. The ‘Intrepid’ cultivar also has shown excellent cold hardiness when in flower. See&nbsp;<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357">http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357</a>

<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357"></a> So, are there other considerations when looking at frost damage? Location can be very important. Planting on a hill that allows cold air to drain to lower elevations can help. &nbsp;Also, a location in town will be more likely to have a warmer micro-climate than an exposed location. Some gardeners will add a heat source under a tree during cold nights if they are close to a building. Heat lamps and charcoal briquettes are sometimes used but safety should be the first consideration. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>If you are considering purchasing fruit trees this spring, there are certain factors that should be considered for some of our fruit tree species. &nbsp;Spring in Kansas is often unsettled with apricot and peach tree flowers being very vulnerable to late frosts that can kill fruit buds. Of course, the tree itself will be fine but there will be little to no fruit for that year. Other species of trees can also be affected but apricots and peaches are by far the most sensitive. &nbsp;Also, the closer a tree is to full bloom, the more sensitive it becomes to frost.Apricots are more likely to have frost kill flowers than peaches because they bloom a bit earlier. Though there are late-blooming apricot varieties, the differences between full bloom on early and late-blooming varieties appear to be slight. Research at Virginia Tech in the '90s showed a maximum of a 4-day difference between early and late varieties. However, in some years that may be all that is needed. The trees in the study that were considered late blooming included Hungarian Rose, Tilton, and Harlayne. Harglow was not included in the study but is also considered late-blooming. See&nbsp;<a href="https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html">https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/422/422-761/422-761.html</a>for more info.​Peaches are next on the list for being likely to be caught by a late frost. With peaches, two characteristics become important when considering whether they will be damaged. Like apricots, bloom time is very important but fruit bud hardiness should also be considered. In this case, fruit bud hardiness refers to hardiness to late frosts rather than the ability to survive extremely low temperatures during the winter. Late bloomers included ‘China Pearl’, ‘Encore’, ‘Intrepid’, and ‘Risingstar.’ See&nbsp;<a href="http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf">http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR782.pdf</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;. The ‘Intrepid’ cultivar also has shown excellent cold hardiness when in flower. See&nbsp;<a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357">http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357</a><a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USPP12357"></a> So, are there other considerations when looking at frost damage? Location can be very important. Planting on a hill that allows cold air to drain to lower elevations can help. &nbsp;Also, a location in town will be more likely to have a warmer micro-climate than an exposed location. Some gardeners will add a heat source under a tree during cold nights if they are close to a building. Heat lamps and charcoal briquettes are sometimes used but safety should be the first consideration. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Fruit trees and frost

To avoid energy costs, some homeowners are turning to wood for heat. &nbsp;Plant species is an important consideration as not all trees have the same density and therefore, heat value. The greater the dry weight, the better. The highest value for trees commonly found in Kansas is Osage orange (hedgeball tree) at 4,800 pounds per cord. Osage orange has a gnarly growth habit and a nasty set of thorns. This species also sparks which isn’t a problem in a wood-fired boiler but certainly would be in an open fireplace.Black locust is next with 4,200 pounds per cord. Black locust is a fast grower and has excellent burning qualities and makes a nice bed of coals. However, it is hard to split, suckers, and has some small thorns, especially on young trees. Bur oak and red oak come in at 3,800 and 3,500 pounds per cord respectively but are not fast growers. Mulberry, however, has the same weight as red oak but grows more quickly. Silver maple has less heat value (3,000 pounds per cord) but is a very fast-growing tree. Black locust is a tempting choice for this purpose due to its heat value and fast growth. &nbsp; However, black locust suckers and is invasive and can spread to areas you don’t want and so be careful if you choose this species. &nbsp;Another species, such as mulberry may work better for you. Or consider planting several different species in rows. So, how do you set out your plantation? Dr. Wayne Geyer, our late forestry professor, did many woody biomass studies over a period of 35 years. Following are some recommendations that have come out of his studies.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant on a close spacing, 4 to 6 feet apart. This maximizes yield and reduces side branching.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Control weeds for the first two years.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Harvest every 5 years though slower growing trees will take longer. &nbsp;Most trees will resprout and can be re-harvested.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant about 1 acre per year for 5 years if you wish to supply most of the firewood needed to heat your home.​

The trees mentioned above and available from the Kansas Forest Service include mulberry, Osage orange, bur oak, red oak, and silver maple. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>To avoid energy costs, some homeowners are turning to wood for heat. &nbsp;Plant species is an important consideration as not all trees have the same density and therefore, heat value. The greater the dry weight, the better. The highest value for trees commonly found in Kansas is Osage orange (hedgeball tree) at 4,800 pounds per cord. Osage orange has a gnarly growth habit and a nasty set of thorns. This species also sparks which isn’t a problem in a wood-fired boiler but certainly would be in an open fireplace.Black locust is next with 4,200 pounds per cord. Black locust is a fast grower and has excellent burning qualities and makes a nice bed of coals. However, it is hard to split, suckers, and has some small thorns, especially on young trees. Bur oak and red oak come in at 3,800 and 3,500 pounds per cord respectively but are not fast growers. Mulberry, however, has the same weight as red oak but grows more quickly. Silver maple has less heat value (3,000 pounds per cord) but is a very fast-growing tree. Black locust is a tempting choice for this purpose due to its heat value and fast growth. &nbsp; However, black locust suckers and is invasive and can spread to areas you don’t want and so be careful if you choose this species. &nbsp;Another species, such as mulberry may work better for you. Or consider planting several different species in rows. So, how do you set out your plantation? Dr. Wayne Geyer, our late forestry professor, did many woody biomass studies over a period of 35 years. Following are some recommendations that have come out of his studies.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant on a close spacing, 4 to 6 feet apart. This maximizes yield and reduces side branching.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Control weeds for the first two years.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Harvest every 5 years though slower growing trees will take longer. &nbsp;Most trees will resprout and can be re-harvested.&nbsp; &nbsp; - Plant about 1 acre per year for 5 years if you wish to supply most of the firewood needed to heat your home.​The trees mentioned above and available from the Kansas Forest Service include mulberry, Osage orange, bur oak, red oak, and silver maple. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Growing your own firewood 

BY DONNA KRUG Cottonwood Extension District

Mike and Amy Jensen, Hays, were recognized recently by the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board as the 2020 recipients of the Extension Appreciation Award. The Jensen Family works together, serving up locally grown food at Professor's in Hays. Besides that, they are familiar faces at the Downtown Farmer’s market, with their honey and mushrooms.&nbsp;

Still, Mike and Amy find time to make contributions to the Cottonwood Extension District Programs. They have served on various committees related to the 4-H and Youth program, working especially hard to raise funds for the concession area at the Fairgrounds. More recently they have partnered with Lauren Fick, Cottonwood District Horticulture Agent, to develop a “Bee program.” COVID created a challenge, but they are hoping to bring educational programs related to bees to the district in 2021.

Thank you, Mike and Amy, for your involvement and support of our Cottonwood Extension District Programs.&nbsp;

Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/12/1608658816374.png" alt="Tatum Kimzey, representing the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board, presents the 2020 Extension Appreciation Award to Mike and Amy Jensen, from Hays." />
 <figcaption>Tatum Kimzey, representing the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board, presents the 2020 Extension Appreciation Award to Mike and Amy Jensen, from Hays.</figcaption>
 </figure>BY DONNA KRUG Cottonwood Extension DistrictMike and Amy Jensen, Hays, were recognized recently by the Cottonwood Extension District Executive Board as the 2020 recipients of the Extension Appreciation Award. The Jensen Family works together, serving up locally grown food at Professor's in Hays. Besides that, they are familiar faces at the Downtown Farmer’s market, with their honey and mushrooms.&nbsp;Still, Mike and Amy find time to make contributions to the Cottonwood Extension District Programs. They have served on various committees related to the 4-H and Youth program, working especially hard to raise funds for the concession area at the Fairgrounds. More recently they have partnered with Lauren Fick, Cottonwood District Horticulture Agent, to develop a “Bee program.” COVID created a challenge, but they are hoping to bring educational programs related to bees to the district in 2021.Thank you, Mike and Amy, for your involvement and support of our Cottonwood Extension District Programs.&nbsp;Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

Hays family honored by Cottonwood Extension District

With in-person interactions across the state severely limited due to the continuing pandemic, staying connected can be quite challenging. The Cottonwood Extension District in Barton and Ellis County has several social media accounts and other digital resources available, including a quarterly newsletter. Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube, in addition to our website, <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

The Cottonwood Extension District is part of the land-grant university—Cooperative Extension System, better known as K-State Research &amp; Extension. We are part of Kansas State University the College of Agriculture and the College of Health and Human Sciences. Our goal is to bring the university to the people, through unbiased research-based information and education. Primarily in the core areas of Family, Consumer Sciences and Wellness, 4-H Youth Development, Community Development, Horticulture, Agriculture and Natural Resources.&nbsp;

Cottonwood District has an active Facebook page providing current updates, videos, events and activities hosted by us <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/">https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/</a>&nbsp; This year during both the Barton and Ellis County Fairs the style revues and junior livestock shows were posted on Facebook Live. &nbsp;

Cottonwood District has become active on Twitter posting current news and updates mainly in agriculture and horticulture--videos, events, activities and upcoming programs. You can follow the Cottonwood Extension District on Twitter at @CottonwoodExt. Also the two agriculture agents in the district have Twitter accounts. Alicia Boor’s Twitter account focuses primarily on livestock and forage production at @lishboor and Stacy Campbell’s Twitter account focuses primarily on crop production at @scampbel_stacy.

Within the last year the Cottonwood District has started a YouTube channel in an effort to try and reach more folks with our research based information and education. A few short and informative videos are posted as well as some in depth programs and presentations on specific topics. Stay tuned to this channel <a href="https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2">https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2</a> we will continue to add more content.&nbsp;

Last but not least, Cottonwood Extension District puts out a digital quarterly newsletter. We send out an email notification to those that have subscribed to our newsletter when it is available. If you would like to subscribe to the quarterly newsletter let our Hays Office Professional, Theresa Meis know, she can be contacted at <a href="mailto:tam3@ksu.edu">tam3@ksu.edu</a>. You can also access the newsletter on our web site at <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

Be sure to check out these social media and digital resources and get them book marked or subscribe to these free resources!&nbsp;

Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430, if after hours please leave a voice-mail for a return call.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1574181994278.png" alt="Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>With in-person interactions across the state severely limited due to the continuing pandemic, staying connected can be quite challenging. The Cottonwood Extension District in Barton and Ellis County has several social media accounts and other digital resources available, including a quarterly newsletter. Twitter, Facebook, and YouTube, in addition to our website, <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;The Cottonwood Extension District is part of the land-grant university—Cooperative Extension System, better known as K-State Research &amp; Extension. We are part of Kansas State University the College of Agriculture and the College of Health and Human Sciences. Our goal is to bring the university to the people, through unbiased research-based information and education. Primarily in the core areas of Family, Consumer Sciences and Wellness, 4-H Youth Development, Community Development, Horticulture, Agriculture and Natural Resources.&nbsp;Cottonwood District has an active Facebook page providing current updates, videos, events and activities hosted by us <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/">https://www.facebook.com/ksrecottonwood/</a>&nbsp; This year during both the Barton and Ellis County Fairs the style revues and junior livestock shows were posted on Facebook Live. &nbsp;Cottonwood District has become active on Twitter posting current news and updates mainly in agriculture and horticulture--videos, events, activities and upcoming programs. You can follow the Cottonwood Extension District on Twitter at @CottonwoodExt. Also the two agriculture agents in the district have Twitter accounts. Alicia Boor’s Twitter account focuses primarily on livestock and forage production at @lishboor and Stacy Campbell’s Twitter account focuses primarily on crop production at @scampbel_stacy.Within the last year the Cottonwood District has started a YouTube channel in an effort to try and reach more folks with our research based information and education. A few short and informative videos are posted as well as some in depth programs and presentations on specific topics. Stay tuned to this channel <a href="https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2">https://bit.ly/3nlUOG2</a> we will continue to add more content.&nbsp;Last but not least, Cottonwood Extension District puts out a digital quarterly newsletter. We send out an email notification to those that have subscribed to our newsletter when it is available. If you would like to subscribe to the quarterly newsletter let our Hays Office Professional, Theresa Meis know, she can be contacted at <a href="mailto:tam3@ksu.edu">tam3@ksu.edu</a>. You can also access the newsletter on our web site at <a href="http://www.cottonwood.ksu.edu">www.cottonwood.ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;Be sure to check out these social media and digital resources and get them book marked or subscribe to these free resources!&nbsp;Stacy Campbell is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact him by e-mail at scampbel@ksu.edu or calling 785-628-9430, if after hours please leave a voice-mail for a return call.&nbsp;

CAMPBELL: Stay connected to Extension with social media, digital resources

If selecting a cut Christmas tree, watch for these signs that the tree is too far gone.&nbsp; &nbsp; 

• Needles are a dull, grayish-green color • Needles fail to ooze pitch when broken apart and squeezed • Needles feel stiff and brittle • Needles pull easily off tree

Once you have your tree home, recut the trunk about one inch above the original cut. This will open up clogged, water-conducting tissues. Immediately place the trunk in warm water. Locate the tree in as cool a spot as possible. Avoid areas near fireplaces, wood-burning stoves and heat ducts as the heat will result in excess water loss. Make sure the reservoir stays filled. If the reservoir loses enough water that the bottom of the trunk is exposed, the trunk will need to be recut.

Adding aspirins, copper pennies, soda pop, sugar and bleach to the water reservoir have not been shown to prolong the life of a tree.​If you choose a living Christmas tree, be sure to dig the planting hole before the ground freezes. &nbsp;Mulch the hole and backfill soil to keep them from freezing. Live trees should not be kept inside for more than three days. Longer periods may cause them to lose dormancy resulting in severe injury when planted outside. 

You may wish to tag the tree at the nursery and then pick it up a couple days before Christmas. After Christmas, move the tree to an unheated garage for several days to acclimatize it to outside temperatures. After planting, water well and leave some mulch in place to prevent the soil water from freezing and becoming unavailable for plant uptake. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>If selecting a cut Christmas tree, watch for these signs that the tree is too far gone.&nbsp; &nbsp; • Needles are a dull, grayish-green color • Needles fail to ooze pitch when broken apart and squeezed • Needles feel stiff and brittle • Needles pull easily off treeOnce you have your tree home, recut the trunk about one inch above the original cut. This will open up clogged, water-conducting tissues. Immediately place the trunk in warm water. Locate the tree in as cool a spot as possible. Avoid areas near fireplaces, wood-burning stoves and heat ducts as the heat will result in excess water loss. Make sure the reservoir stays filled. If the reservoir loses enough water that the bottom of the trunk is exposed, the trunk will need to be recut. Adding aspirins, copper pennies, soda pop, sugar and bleach to the water reservoir have not been shown to prolong the life of a tree.​If you choose a living Christmas tree, be sure to dig the planting hole before the ground freezes. &nbsp;Mulch the hole and backfill soil to keep them from freezing. Live trees should not be kept inside for more than three days. Longer periods may cause them to lose dormancy resulting in severe injury when planted outside. You may wish to tag the tree at the nursery and then pick it up a couple days before Christmas. After Christmas, move the tree to an unheated garage for several days to acclimatize it to outside temperatures. After planting, water well and leave some mulch in place to prevent the soil water from freezing and becoming unavailable for plant uptake. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: When a Christmas tree is too far gone

It doesn’t seem possible that it has been three years since our Cottonwood Extension District formed, joining the K-State Research &amp; Extension operations for Barton and Ellis Counties. As our team of seven agents and two support staff work hard to bring research based, non-biased information to lifelong learners in our area, I am excited report some of the successes of 2020.

I hope you have had an opportunity to utilize our services in the past year. 2020 provided many challenges for families, but some neat learning opportunities were created by those challenges. As virtual meetings and educational programs became the norm, participants, young and old, adapted to the world of technology.&nbsp;

Perhaps your family is involved in 4-H or an after-school program. If so, we have two experienced agents, Michelle Beran and Susan Schlichting, leading the youth development program in the Cottonwood District. If you visit the Kansas 4-H web site you will find links to the Clover classroom with project challenges in photography, pollinators and communication, with more to come in 2021. &nbsp;

Our District Agriculture and Natural Resource agents. Alicia Boor and Stacy Campbell, have specialized to focus on livestock programming and crops respectively. Both Alicia and Stacy have produced teaching videos related to hot topics that are posted on our Cottonwood District Face book page.

Master gardeners in Ellis and Barton Counties receive guidance from our District Horticulture Agent, Lauren Fick. Lauren has worked hard to provide a fresh new look on our web sites’ horticulture page. She also prides herself in answering yard, garden and tree questions in a timely manner.&nbsp;

And finally, Berny Unruh and I are committed to bringing Extension educational programming related to nutrition, health and wellness, food safety, family resource management, aging issues, and family life in general. The Stay Strong, Stay Healthy workshop that focuses on strength, balance and flexibility, reached 70 individuals district wide in 2020. More workshops are scheduled for 2021.

I would be remiss not to mention our two experienced office professionals. Brenda Walton, in the Great Bend office, takes the lead with the finances for the district while Theresa Meis, in the Hays office, focuses on communicating our efforts through newsletters and our web site. Both Brenda and Theresa handle a multitude of other duties that keep our offices running smoothly.&nbsp;

It is great news that K-State Research and Extension has answers to many of life’s questions, typically at no or low cost. Unlike what you might find through a Google search, the answers we provide are research based and non-biased. I hope you will take a look at our Cottonwood web site and like our Cottonwood Facebook page. We hope to see you at some of our upcoming programs.&nbsp;

While our Cottonwood Executive Board remains the same for next year, it is not too early to consider stepping up and running for a position during 2021. There will be two positions on the ballot in both Barton and Ellis Counties next year. If you have questions about what serving on our board would entail, feel free to give me a call.

Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/6/1593016082485.png" alt="Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>It doesn’t seem possible that it has been three years since our Cottonwood Extension District formed, joining the K-State Research &amp; Extension operations for Barton and Ellis Counties. As our team of seven agents and two support staff work hard to bring research based, non-biased information to lifelong learners in our area, I am excited report some of the successes of 2020.I hope you have had an opportunity to utilize our services in the past year. 2020 provided many challenges for families, but some neat learning opportunities were created by those challenges. As virtual meetings and educational programs became the norm, participants, young and old, adapted to the world of technology.&nbsp;Perhaps your family is involved in 4-H or an after-school program. If so, we have two experienced agents, Michelle Beran and Susan Schlichting, leading the youth development program in the Cottonwood District. If you visit the Kansas 4-H web site you will find links to the Clover classroom with project challenges in photography, pollinators and communication, with more to come in 2021. &nbsp;Our District Agriculture and Natural Resource agents. Alicia Boor and Stacy Campbell, have specialized to focus on livestock programming and crops respectively. Both Alicia and Stacy have produced teaching videos related to hot topics that are posted on our Cottonwood District Face book page.Master gardeners in Ellis and Barton Counties receive guidance from our District Horticulture Agent, Lauren Fick. Lauren has worked hard to provide a fresh new look on our web sites’ horticulture page. She also prides herself in answering yard, garden and tree questions in a timely manner.&nbsp;And finally, Berny Unruh and I are committed to bringing Extension educational programming related to nutrition, health and wellness, food safety, family resource management, aging issues, and family life in general. The Stay Strong, Stay Healthy workshop that focuses on strength, balance and flexibility, reached 70 individuals district wide in 2020. More workshops are scheduled for 2021.I would be remiss not to mention our two experienced office professionals. Brenda Walton, in the Great Bend office, takes the lead with the finances for the district while Theresa Meis, in the Hays office, focuses on communicating our efforts through newsletters and our web site. Both Brenda and Theresa handle a multitude of other duties that keep our offices running smoothly.&nbsp;It is great news that K-State Research and Extension has answers to many of life’s questions, typically at no or low cost. Unlike what you might find through a Google search, the answers we provide are research based and non-biased. I hope you will take a look at our Cottonwood web site and like our Cottonwood Facebook page. We hope to see you at some of our upcoming programs.&nbsp;While our Cottonwood Executive Board remains the same for next year, it is not too early to consider stepping up and running for a position during 2021. There will be two positions on the ballot in both Barton and Ellis Counties next year. If you have questions about what serving on our board would entail, feel free to give me a call.Donna Krug is the District Director and Family &amp; Consumer Science Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. You may reach her at: (620)793-1910 or <a href="mailto:dkrug@ksu.edu">dkrug@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;

KRUG: Cottonwood Extension District making an impact

The best time to seed cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is September because the turf has more time to mature before spring crabgrass germination and the heat stress of summer. Dormant seeding of turfgrass is sometimes used to help fill in bare spots of lawns that weren't overseeded in the fall. Dormant overseeding is done during the winter (December – February) when it is much too cold for germination.

As with any seeding program, good seed-soil contact is vital. Several methods can be used. One method is to seed when there has been a light snowfall of up to an inch. This is shallow enough that bare spots can still be seen. Spread seed by hand on areas that need thickening up. As the snow melts, it brings the seed into good contact with the soil where it will germinate in the spring. Another method is dependent on the surface of the soil being moist followed by freezing weather. As moist soil freezes and thaws, small pockets are formed on the wet, bare soil that is perfect for catching and holding seed. As the soil dries, the pockets collapse and cover the seed. A third method involves core aerating, verticutting, or hand raking and broadcasting seed immediately after. Of course, the soil must be dry enough and unfrozen for this to be practical. With any of the above methods, the seed germinates in the spring as early as possible. There will be limitations on what herbicides can be used for weed control. Tupersan (siduron) can be used as a crabgrass preventer on new seedings even before they have come up. Also, dithiopyr, found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer, can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Dithiopyr is longer lasting and more effective than siduron. Other preemergence herbicides available to homeowners require that the turf be well established before application. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>The best time to seed cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass is September because the turf has more time to mature before spring crabgrass germination and the heat stress of summer. Dormant seeding of turfgrass is sometimes used to help fill in bare spots of lawns that weren't overseeded in the fall. Dormant overseeding is done during the winter (December – February) when it is much too cold for germination.As with any seeding program, good seed-soil contact is vital. Several methods can be used. One method is to seed when there has been a light snowfall of up to an inch. This is shallow enough that bare spots can still be seen. Spread seed by hand on areas that need thickening up. As the snow melts, it brings the seed into good contact with the soil where it will germinate in the spring. Another method is dependent on the surface of the soil being moist followed by freezing weather. As moist soil freezes and thaws, small pockets are formed on the wet, bare soil that is perfect for catching and holding seed. As the soil dries, the pockets collapse and cover the seed. A third method involves core aerating, verticutting, or hand raking and broadcasting seed immediately after. Of course, the soil must be dry enough and unfrozen for this to be practical. With any of the above methods, the seed germinates in the spring as early as possible. There will be limitations on what herbicides can be used for weed control. Tupersan (siduron) can be used as a crabgrass preventer on new seedings even before they have come up. Also, dithiopyr, found in Hi-Yield Turf and Ornamental Weed and Grass Stopper and Bonide Crabgrass &amp; Weed Preventer, can be used on tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass two weeks after germination. Dithiopyr is longer lasting and more effective than siduron. Other preemergence herbicides available to homeowners require that the turf be well established before application. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Dormant seeding of turfgrass    

Marie Margaret Billinger, age 93, of WaKeeney, KS, passed away November 21, 2020, at Trego County Lemke Memorial Hospital Long Term Care. Marie was born July 31, 1927, in Brownell, KS to August and Mary (Halblieb) Moos. &nbsp;

Marie was a graduate of Trego High School. On June 4, 1946, Marie Moos and Alvin Billinger were joined in marriage. She was a loving mother and doting grandma, a farmer, and lover of horticulture.

She was always available to spend time with her grandkids.&nbsp; She was a passionate gardener and florist who took much pride in her garden and flowers.&nbsp; Marie was eager to share her knowledge and would gladly answer questions about plants and flowers to anyone who would ask. Later in life, it brought Marie great joy sharing an ice cream with family and doing puzzles with her children and grandchildren. &nbsp;

Marie is survived by daughters Judy (Eddie) Bollig of WaKeeney and Janie Dixon of Decatur, TX; son Larry Billinger of Tulsa, OK; 13 grandchildren and 22 great-grandchildren.

Marie is preceded in death by her parents; husband Alvin; children Tim Billinger and Cathy Millard; 3 grandsons, Darin Bollig, John Eck and Heath Billinger; and 7 siblings.

Per the family's wishes, a private viewing and mass will be held at Christ the King Catholic Church, with burial to follow at Christ the King Cemetery. &nbsp;

Memorials may be made to Trego County Lemke Memorial Hospital Long Term Care or Masses. Donations to the organizations may be sent to Schmitt Funeral Home, 336 N. 12th St. WaKeeney, KS 67672.

Condolences may be left for the family by visiting www.schmittfuneral.com

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/11/1606153063479.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Marie Margaret Billinger, age 93, of WaKeeney, KS, passed away November 21, 2020, at Trego County Lemke Memorial Hospital Long Term Care. Marie was born July 31, 1927, in Brownell, KS to August and Mary (Halblieb) Moos. &nbsp;Marie was a graduate of Trego High School. On June 4, 1946, Marie Moos and Alvin Billinger were joined in marriage. She was a loving mother and doting grandma, a farmer, and lover of horticulture.She was always available to spend time with her grandkids.&nbsp; She was a passionate gardener and florist who took much pride in her garden and flowers.&nbsp; Marie was eager to share her knowledge and would gladly answer questions about plants and flowers to anyone who would ask. Later in life, it brought Marie great joy sharing an ice cream with family and doing puzzles with her children and grandchildren. &nbsp;Marie is survived by daughters Judy (Eddie) Bollig of WaKeeney and Janie Dixon of Decatur, TX; son Larry Billinger of Tulsa, OK; 13 grandchildren and 22 great-grandchildren.Marie is preceded in death by her parents; husband Alvin; children Tim Billinger and Cathy Millard; 3 grandsons, Darin Bollig, John Eck and Heath Billinger; and 7 siblings.Per the family's wishes, a private viewing and mass will be held at Christ the King Catholic Church, with burial to follow at Christ the King Cemetery. &nbsp;Memorials may be made to Trego County Lemke Memorial Hospital Long Term Care or Masses. Donations to the organizations may be sent to Schmitt Funeral Home, 336 N. 12th St. WaKeeney, KS 67672.Condolences may be left for the family by visiting www.schmittfuneral.com

Marie Margaret Billinger

This is the second year in a row where portions of Kansas suffered a quick drop in temperature after a warm fall. &nbsp;Unfortunately, some trees were not hardened off before this happened. Some trees will very likely be affected by this sharp drop in temperature. &nbsp;The first sign that a tree has been affected is marcescence in which trees that normally drop their leaves in the fall, don’t. &nbsp;Leaves don’t drop because they didn’t have enough time to develop an abscission layer at the base of each leaf that allowed it to fall. Though marcescence itself does not harm the tree, it is a clue that further damage may have occurred. &nbsp;Notice I said “may.” &nbsp;Trees that exhibit marcescence may be perfectly fine. Also, portions of the state that did not suffer this extreme drop in temperature should be good. &nbsp; It is possible that trees that show evidence of marcescence, may also have suffered damage to the living tissue under the bark. The sharp drop in temperature may damage at least a portion of the phloem and the cambium. Remember the phloem carries food made in the leaves to all parts of the plants including the roots. The cambium produces new phloem. &nbsp;If the phloem and cambium are killed, the cambium cannot produce new, living phloem, and, therefore, the roots don’t receive the food needed to survive and eventually starve to death. Trees so affected will not die immediately. &nbsp;First, a healthy root system has stored energy reserves that it can use to keep the tree alive. When those reserves are depleted, the tree will die very quickly. &nbsp;Usually, this occurs during the summer following the year the damage occurred. However, there is more to the story. &nbsp;Doesn’t a tree also need water? Since the living portion of the trunk was killed, wouldn’t this stop water flow? It would not. &nbsp;Xylem is the structure in the tree that carries water from the soil throughout the plant. &nbsp;

The reason the tree can still distribute water to the top portion of the tree is due to how a tree grows and, specifically, how xylem works. &nbsp;Even in perfectly healthy trees, most of the xylem is dead. Portions of this dead xylem form hollow tubes that carry most of the water and nutrients throughout the plant. Though there are living xylem cells, the contents of those cells make them inefficient in moving water. Therefore, the functional portion of the xylem wasn’t hurt by the freeze because it was already dead. Since this xylem system still works and provides water for the tree, the tree can live for quite a period until the roots starve. Remember, as stated before, trees with marcescence may be fine. &nbsp;Even if there was also damage to tree tissues, it all depends on how much of the living tissue under the bark was killed. If only a small portion is killed, then the tree may recover. If the entire circumference is killed, the tree is done for and there isn’t anything you can do to save it. Any portion of the trunk where the bark comes off and the underlying layer is brown is dead.​So, is there anything we can do now to help the trees? &nbsp;Since we don’t know the extent of the damage, if any, we need to ensure there is no further stress. &nbsp;Primarily, that means to water the tree as needed. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged until freezing temperatures are here to stay. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>This is the second year in a row where portions of Kansas suffered a quick drop in temperature after a warm fall. &nbsp;Unfortunately, some trees were not hardened off before this happened. Some trees will very likely be affected by this sharp drop in temperature. &nbsp;The first sign that a tree has been affected is marcescence in which trees that normally drop their leaves in the fall, don’t. &nbsp;Leaves don’t drop because they didn’t have enough time to develop an abscission layer at the base of each leaf that allowed it to fall. Though marcescence itself does not harm the tree, it is a clue that further damage may have occurred. &nbsp;Notice I said “may.” &nbsp;Trees that exhibit marcescence may be perfectly fine. Also, portions of the state that did not suffer this extreme drop in temperature should be good. &nbsp; It is possible that trees that show evidence of marcescence, may also have suffered damage to the living tissue under the bark. The sharp drop in temperature may damage at least a portion of the phloem and the cambium. Remember the phloem carries food made in the leaves to all parts of the plants including the roots. The cambium produces new phloem. &nbsp;If the phloem and cambium are killed, the cambium cannot produce new, living phloem, and, therefore, the roots don’t receive the food needed to survive and eventually starve to death. Trees so affected will not die immediately. &nbsp;First, a healthy root system has stored energy reserves that it can use to keep the tree alive. When those reserves are depleted, the tree will die very quickly. &nbsp;Usually, this occurs during the summer following the year the damage occurred. However, there is more to the story. &nbsp;Doesn’t a tree also need water? Since the living portion of the trunk was killed, wouldn’t this stop water flow? It would not. &nbsp;Xylem is the structure in the tree that carries water from the soil throughout the plant. &nbsp;The reason the tree can still distribute water to the top portion of the tree is due to how a tree grows and, specifically, how xylem works. &nbsp;Even in perfectly healthy trees, most of the xylem is dead. Portions of this dead xylem form hollow tubes that carry most of the water and nutrients throughout the plant. Though there are living xylem cells, the contents of those cells make them inefficient in moving water. Therefore, the functional portion of the xylem wasn’t hurt by the freeze because it was already dead. Since this xylem system still works and provides water for the tree, the tree can live for quite a period until the roots starve. Remember, as stated before, trees with marcescence may be fine. &nbsp;Even if there was also damage to tree tissues, it all depends on how much of the living tissue under the bark was killed. If only a small portion is killed, then the tree may recover. If the entire circumference is killed, the tree is done for and there isn’t anything you can do to save it. Any portion of the trunk where the bark comes off and the underlying layer is brown is dead.​So, is there anything we can do now to help the trees? &nbsp;Since we don’t know the extent of the damage, if any, we need to ensure there is no further stress. &nbsp;Primarily, that means to water the tree as needed. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged until freezing temperatures are here to stay. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

FICK: Sharp temperature drop a cause for concern for trees

Celebrate the holidays with a beautiful, live wreath. Join Cottonwood Extension's Lauren Fick for an evening of floral design and wreath building. 

In this workshop, participants will join via zoom and have a full hour of creative time, while Lauren guides you through the basic floral design principles. 

Participants will learn how to create a modern door wreath with fresh, winter greenery. Each paying participant will receive a box of materials that include a 16" wreath frame, over 7' of live greenery, a wreath hanger, pinecones, floral wire, and more. Lauren will teach about the different types of greenery and techniques for using them in a wreath or floral design.&nbsp;The best part about this workshop is that you get to participate from the comfort of your own home.

The workshop will take place on Thursday, Dec. 3, at 7:30pm. For participants who would like materials the cost is $35 per participant and there is a limited amount of materials available (first 25 people). Registration closes on Nov. 16 at 5:00PM. For participants who want materials they must register and pay by Nov. 16 to secure their spot. Participants who are interested in the free Zoom link are asked to call the office by Nov. 16 to register. Further details will be sent out via email after registration is complete.&nbsp; Call 785-628-9430 to register.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Cottonwood ExtensionCelebrate the holidays with a beautiful, live wreath. Join Cottonwood Extension's Lauren Fick for an evening of floral design and wreath building. In this workshop, participants will join via zoom and have a full hour of creative time, while Lauren guides you through the basic floral design principles. Participants will learn how to create a modern door wreath with fresh, winter greenery. Each paying participant will receive a box of materials that include a 16" wreath frame, over 7' of live greenery, a wreath hanger, pinecones, floral wire, and more. Lauren will teach about the different types of greenery and techniques for using them in a wreath or floral design.&nbsp;The best part about this workshop is that you get to participate from the comfort of your own home. The workshop will take place on Thursday, Dec. 3, at 7:30pm. For participants who would like materials the cost is $35 per participant and there is a limited amount of materials available (first 25 people). Registration closes on Nov. 16 at 5:00PM. For participants who want materials they must register and pay by Nov. 16 to secure their spot. Participants who are interested in the free Zoom link are asked to call the office by Nov. 16 to register. Further details will be sent out via email after registration is complete.&nbsp; Call 785-628-9430 to register.

FICK: Holiday wreath workshop

I always love the changing of the seasons, especially summer to fall. After the heat of the summer, the cool, crisp mornings and cooler days makes me happy. One of the first signs that I can tell that summer is on its way out is the first leaves on the cottonwood trees starting to turn yellow. The reds and oranges of the maples and oaks quickly follow suite. &nbsp;Although the New England states is the place to view the changing of the seasons, Kansas is no slouch. I found an article this week for you for the Horticulture Department about why trees change the colors they do and how you get the striking colors of fall.&nbsp;

&nbsp;Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.&nbsp;

Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.&nbsp;

If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.&nbsp;

Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.&nbsp;

Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.&nbsp;

The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu">aboor@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2019/11/1573141354634.png" alt="Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District." />
 <figcaption>Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District.</figcaption>
 </figure>I always love the changing of the seasons, especially summer to fall. After the heat of the summer, the cool, crisp mornings and cooler days makes me happy. One of the first signs that I can tell that summer is on its way out is the first leaves on the cottonwood trees starting to turn yellow. The reds and oranges of the maples and oaks quickly follow suite. &nbsp;Although the New England states is the place to view the changing of the seasons, Kansas is no slouch. I found an article this week for you for the Horticulture Department about why trees change the colors they do and how you get the striking colors of fall.&nbsp;&nbsp;Part of the allure of fall foliage is color variation. There are trees that turn red, purple, yellow, orange and brown.&nbsp;Specific plant pigments determine individual colors. Foliage derives its normal green color from chlorophyll, the substance that captures the energy of the sun. Other pigments produce fall colors. Reds and purples are caused by anthocyanins, yellows by xanthophylls, and oranges by a combination of carotenes and xanthophylls. Browns are the result of tannins present in the leaf. Most of these substances are present throughout the growing season but are masked by the green color produced by chlorophyll. Anthocyanins are the exception and are produced after the chlorophyll is destroyed in the fall.&nbsp;If you have ever seen pictures of New England in the fall, you have probably wondered why trees in Kansas usually do not color as well. This difference is partly because of the tree species prevalent in New England. Certain oaks and maples naturally produce good color. Coloring also is influenced by the weather.&nbsp;Warm, sunny days and cool nights are ideal for good color. The sunny days encourage photosynthesis and, thus, sugar accumulation in the leaves. As fall progresses, each leaf develops an abscission layer at the base of the petiole, or leaf stem, that prevents these sugars from being transported down the trunk to the roots for storage. This high sugar content in the leaves produces more intense colors. Cloudy days and warm nights prevent some of the sugar accumulation in the leaves and results in less vibrant colors.&nbsp;Weather during other parts of the growing season also can have an effect. Heavy rains in the early spring or hot, dry weather during the summer can both have a deleterious effect on fall color.&nbsp;The length of time a tree maintains fall color also depends on weather. Reds, yellows and oranges are short-lived when trees undergo frosts and freezes.&nbsp;&nbsp;Alicia Boor is an Agriculture and Natural Resources agent in the Cottonwood District (which includes Barton and Ellis counties) for K-State Research and Extension. You can contact her by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:aboor@ksu.edu">aboor@ksu.edu</a>&nbsp;or calling 620-793-1910&nbsp;

BOOR: A closer look at the colors of fall

Houseplants need varying amounts of water and fertilizer at different times of the year. They need the most during summer when light levels are high and days are long. They need the least during the short days of winter. 

The primary reason for this is light. &nbsp;Light produces the fuel for plant growth. More light allows more growth, which results in a greater demand for water and nutrients. When light is limiting, the need for water and nutrients decreases dramatically. Therefore, it becomes easy to overwater and overfertilize during the winter months. Excess water and fertilizer can harm a plant by damaging the root system. 

Overwatering can suffocate roots by eliminating oxygen and excess fertilizer can burn roots. &nbsp;Therefore, it is best not to fertilize at all during the middle of winter (December-January) and to fertilize sparingly during November and February (maybe 1/4 a normal rate).​It is never wise to water on a set schedule. 

Rather, allow the potting soil to tell you when watering is needed. Check to see if the soil is moist 1-inch deep by inserting your finger into the potting mix. Don't water unless the mix is dry.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Houseplants need varying amounts of water and fertilizer at different times of the year. They need the most during summer when light levels are high and days are long. They need the least during the short days of winter. The primary reason for this is light. &nbsp;Light produces the fuel for plant growth. More light allows more growth, which results in a greater demand for water and nutrients. When light is limiting, the need for water and nutrients decreases dramatically. Therefore, it becomes easy to overwater and overfertilize during the winter months. Excess water and fertilizer can harm a plant by damaging the root system. Overwatering can suffocate roots by eliminating oxygen and excess fertilizer can burn roots. &nbsp;Therefore, it is best not to fertilize at all during the middle of winter (December-January) and to fertilize sparingly during November and February (maybe 1/4 a normal rate).​It is never wise to water on a set schedule. Rather, allow the potting soil to tell you when watering is needed. Check to see if the soil is moist 1-inch deep by inserting your finger into the potting mix. Don't water unless the mix is dry.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Caring for houseplants during the winter months

MANHATTAN — The Kansas Department of Agriculture (KDA) has funds available for reimbursement to Kansas specialty crop growers who attend an educational conference with a primary focus on specialty crops. Qualifying conferences may include sessions about production practices, specialized equipment and technology, pest and disease management, specialty crop marketing practices, or business principles for specialty crop producers.

Applicants who apply for the reimbursement will be required to attend the conference between December 2020 and June 2021 and to complete surveys before, immediately after and six months post-conference prior to payment being issued. 

Conferences not eligible will include those within the state of Kansas and the Great Plains Growers Conference. 

KDA will reimburse Kansas specialty crop growers up to $850 each in order to offset the cost of their conference registration, mileage/flights, hotel, meals, etc.&nbsp; The award is available on a first-come, first-served basis. The deadline for application is December 18, 2020.&nbsp;

Examples of conferences that may be eligible for applicants to attend include, but are not limited to:

This program is made possible by a U.S. Department of Agriculture Specialty Crop Block Grant (SCBG). The SCBG makes funds available to state departments of agriculture solely to enhance the competitiveness of specialty crops. 

According to USDA, specialty crops are defined as “fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits, horticulture and nursery crops, including floriculture.”

This grant fits KDA’s mission to provide an environment that enhances and encourages economic growth of the agriculture industry and the Kansas economy.

For application details, go to the KDA website at&nbsp;<a href="https://gcc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fagriculture.ks.gov%2Fkda-services%2Fgrants-and-cost-share-programs%2Fspecialty-crop-grower-conference-grant&amp;data=04%7C01%7C%7C43968e0a70aa4cd920d108d87437984d%7Cdcae8101c92d480cbc43c6761ccccc5a%7C0%7C0%7C637387129904771827%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&amp;sdata=cSYGCV%2B32pXHXEskIbEsBYeYi%2BUwm56jhuBTTPWGD4c%3D&amp;reserved=0" target="_blank">agriculture.ks.gov/grants</a>. Questions should be directed to Sammy Gleason,&nbsp;From the Land of Kansas&nbsp;program coordinator, at 785-564-6755 or&nbsp;<a href="mailto:Sammy.Gleason@ks.gov" target="_blank">Sammy.Gleason@ks.gov</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/10/1603232188673.jpeg" alt="(Photo courtesy Kansas Specialty Crop Growers Association)" />
 <figcaption>(Photo courtesy Kansas Specialty Crop Growers Association)</figcaption>
 </figure>KDAMANHATTAN — The Kansas Department of Agriculture (KDA) has funds available for reimbursement to Kansas specialty crop growers who attend an educational conference with a primary focus on specialty crops. Qualifying conferences may include sessions about production practices, specialized equipment and technology, pest and disease management, specialty crop marketing practices, or business principles for specialty crop producers.Applicants who apply for the reimbursement will be required to attend the conference between December 2020 and June 2021 and to complete surveys before, immediately after and six months post-conference prior to payment being issued. Conferences not eligible will include those within the state of Kansas and the Great Plains Growers Conference. KDA will reimburse Kansas specialty crop growers up to $850 each in order to offset the cost of their conference registration, mileage/flights, hotel, meals, etc.&nbsp; The award is available on a first-come, first-served basis. The deadline for application is December 18, 2020.&nbsp;Examples of conferences that may be eligible for applicants to attend include, but are not limited to:<ul>
 <li>Great Lakes Expo Fruit, Vegetable, and Farm Market, December 8-10, 2020, Virtual</li><li>Southeast Regional Fruit &amp; Vegetable Conference, January 5-7, 2021, Virtual</li><li>North American Strawberry Growers Association Conference, January 18-20, 2021, Virtual</li><li>Unified Wine &amp; Grape Symposium, January 26-29, 2021, Sacramento, California</li><li>American Society for Enology and Viticulture National Conference, June 21-24, 2021, Monterey, California</li>
 </ul>This program is made possible by a U.S. Department of Agriculture Specialty Crop Block Grant (SCBG). The SCBG makes funds available to state departments of agriculture solely to enhance the competitiveness of specialty crops. According to USDA, specialty crops are defined as “fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits, horticulture and nursery crops, including floriculture.”This grant fits KDA’s mission to provide an environment that enhances and encourages economic growth of the agriculture industry and the Kansas economy.For application details, go to the KDA website at&nbsp;<a href="https://gcc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fagriculture.ks.gov%2Fkda-services%2Fgrants-and-cost-share-programs%2Fspecialty-crop-grower-conference-grant&amp;data=04%7C01%7C%7C43968e0a70aa4cd920d108d87437984d%7Cdcae8101c92d480cbc43c6761ccccc5a%7C0%7C0%7C637387129904771827%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&amp;sdata=cSYGCV%2B32pXHXEskIbEsBYeYi%2BUwm56jhuBTTPWGD4c%3D&amp;reserved=0" target="_blank">agriculture.ks.gov/grants</a>. Questions should be directed to Sammy Gleason,&nbsp;From the Land of Kansas&nbsp;program coordinator, at 785-564-6755 or&nbsp;<a href="mailto:Sammy.Gleason@ks.gov" target="_blank">Sammy.Gleason@ks.gov</a>.

KDA offers reimbursement to specialty crop growers

Late October to early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October.

These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP, and Dicamba. Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots in the fall. &nbsp;Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up.​

Choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow this process, but these products will still work at lower temperatures.

Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above, plus carfentrazone. It will give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures move below 50 degrees. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. " />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. </figcaption>
 </figure> Late October to early November is the most effective time to control broadleaf weeds in lawns. Dandelions usually produce a flush of new plants in late September, and the winter annual weeds henbit and chickweed should have germinated in October. These young plants are small and easily controlled with herbicides such as 2,4-D or combination products (Trimec, Weed-B-Gon, Weed-Out) that contain 2,4-D, MCPP, and Dicamba. Even established dandelions are more easily controlled now than in the spring because they are actively moving materials from the top portion of the plant to the roots in the fall. &nbsp;Herbicides will translocate to the roots as well and will kill the plant from the roots up.​ Choose a day that is 50 degrees or higher. The better the weed is growing, the more weed killer will be moved from the leaves to the roots. Cold temperatures will slow this process, but these products will still work at lower temperatures.Weed Free Zone (also sold under the name of Speed Zone) contains the three active ingredients mentioned above, plus carfentrazone. It will give a quicker response than the other products mentioned especially as temperatures move below 50 degrees. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Controlling broadleaf weeds in lawns

BY RON WILSON Huck Boyd National Institute for Rural Development&nbsp;

A blue ribbon. For millions of 4-H youth through the years, blue ribbons have been awarded in recognition of a high-quality project.&nbsp;&nbsp;

For Joni Albers, the founder of the Hungry Gardens in California, her first blue ribbon helped launch a lifelong interest in horticulture. She is now using those skills to produce healthy food for urban neighbors.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Originally from Hoxie, Joni’s roots go deep in rural Kansas. Her grandparents were dairy farmers, and her family always had a large garden. “My mother got me started in gardening,” Joni said. “I had my first garden at 6 years old.”&nbsp;

She was also a member of the Solomon Valley 4-H Club. In her first year, she took her homegrown green beans to the Sheridan County Fair and won a blue ribbon. “That started it all,” she said. Joni was active in 4-H, taking on projects such as sewing, art, bucket calf, and woodworking, but horticulture was her favorite.&nbsp;

Joni went to college in Denver and worked as a designer before taking a technology position in New York City. When her company allowed her to transfer to California, Joni settled in Sun Valley.&nbsp;

Unlike in New York City, she now had some land. “I wanted to garden as I had in my youth,” Joni said. She started a small garden, but the garden space quickly grew. Soon she had about 4,000 square feet, and her neighbors were interested in her produce.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Locally grown products were hard to come by in the region. “There was one produce stand in the area, but it was only open one day a week, and they didn’t have locally grown produce,” Joni said.&nbsp;

She decided to launch her own business as an urban produce farm. She named it the Hungry Gardens. She uses innovative technology to communicate with customers and focuses on heirloom produce.&nbsp;

These are not plain, everyday tomatoes, for example. “Healthy food and culinary experiences underpin everything we grow at the Hungry Gardens,” her website says.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

“I try to find the rarest heirloom vegetables,” Joni said. “We specialize in growing unique vegetables that are not available commercially but have historical and indigenous value.”&nbsp;

For example, Joni offers many products which I hadn’t heard of, such as cinnamon basil, blacktail watermelons, red noodle beans, tigger melons, violet sparkle peppers, thai lime, pineapple sage, cucamelons, and many more. She works with various partners, including several chefs.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

“I want to provide an experience for people, and give them new things to try,” Joni said.&nbsp;&nbsp;Her market is hyperlocal, and she offers pickup and delivery. Hungry Gardens also offers seedlings for such items as heirloom tomatoes, squash, zucchini and flowers.&nbsp;

Some cities have used community-supported agriculture, where consumers pay a fee and receive whatever produce happens to be in season. Joni goes a step further by enabling consumers to select their products. “I allow consumers to curate their own boxes,” Joni said. “That means they get what they really want.”&nbsp;&nbsp;

She updates the inventory of fresh products each day, and her customers get to choose among the freshest items.&nbsp;

Joni uses an iPhone app called Cropswap, to offer Heirloom CropBoxes by subscription. These include a variety of heirloom vegetables not offered on her website. The boxes come with scannable codes that connect to recipes from area chefs, plus ideas for preparation of these unusual products.&nbsp;

It’s a remarkable business, inspired by Joni’s early days as a 4-H’er at the rural community of Hoxie, population 1,201 people. Now, that’s rural.&nbsp;

Her products are only available in California, but you can learn about her company by going to<a href="http://www.hungrygardens.com/">www.hungrygardens.com</a>.&nbsp;

A blue ribbon. For 4-H youth, it symbolizes a high level of achievement. For Joni Albers, that first blue ribbon also helped inspire a lifelong interest in horticulture which has now become an innovative business. We commend Joni Albers of the Hungry Gardens for making a difference with her entrepreneurial approach to produce. In her case, a blue ribbon helped encourage a green thumb.&nbsp;

Thanks to K-State Research and Extension Twin Creeks District Director Stacy Brown for this story idea.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/10/1602076590355.png" alt="Screen Shot 2020-10-07 at 8.16.15 AM.png" />
 <figcaption>Screen Shot 2020-10-07 at 8.16.15 AM.png</figcaption>
 </figure>BY RON WILSON Huck Boyd National Institute for Rural Development&nbsp;A blue ribbon. For millions of 4-H youth through the years, blue ribbons have been awarded in recognition of a high-quality project.&nbsp;&nbsp;For Joni Albers, the founder of the Hungry Gardens in California, her first blue ribbon helped launch a lifelong interest in horticulture. She is now using those skills to produce healthy food for urban neighbors.&nbsp;&nbsp;Originally from Hoxie, Joni’s roots go deep in rural Kansas. Her grandparents were dairy farmers, and her family always had a large garden. “My mother got me started in gardening,” Joni said. “I had my first garden at 6 years old.”&nbsp;She was also a member of the Solomon Valley 4-H Club. In her first year, she took her homegrown green beans to the Sheridan County Fair and won a blue ribbon. “That started it all,” she said. Joni was active in 4-H, taking on projects such as sewing, art, bucket calf, and woodworking, but horticulture was her favorite.&nbsp;Joni went to college in Denver and worked as a designer before taking a technology position in New York City. When her company allowed her to transfer to California, Joni settled in Sun Valley.&nbsp;Unlike in New York City, she now had some land. “I wanted to garden as I had in my youth,” Joni said. She started a small garden, but the garden space quickly grew. Soon she had about 4,000 square feet, and her neighbors were interested in her produce.&nbsp;&nbsp;Locally grown products were hard to come by in the region. “There was one produce stand in the area, but it was only open one day a week, and they didn’t have locally grown produce,” Joni said.&nbsp;She decided to launch her own business as an urban produce farm. She named it the Hungry Gardens. She uses innovative technology to communicate with customers and focuses on heirloom produce.&nbsp;These are not plain, everyday tomatoes, for example. “Healthy food and culinary experiences underpin everything we grow at the Hungry Gardens,” her website says.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;“I try to find the rarest heirloom vegetables,” Joni said. “We specialize in growing unique vegetables that are not available commercially but have historical and indigenous value.”&nbsp;For example, Joni offers many products which I hadn’t heard of, such as cinnamon basil, blacktail watermelons, red noodle beans, tigger melons, violet sparkle peppers, thai lime, pineapple sage, cucamelons, and many more. She works with various partners, including several chefs.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;“I want to provide an experience for people, and give them new things to try,” Joni said.&nbsp;&nbsp;Her market is hyperlocal, and she offers pickup and delivery. Hungry Gardens also offers seedlings for such items as heirloom tomatoes, squash, zucchini and flowers.&nbsp;Some cities have used community-supported agriculture, where consumers pay a fee and receive whatever produce happens to be in season. Joni goes a step further by enabling consumers to select their products. “I allow consumers to curate their own boxes,” Joni said. “That means they get what they really want.”&nbsp;&nbsp;She updates the inventory of fresh products each day, and her customers get to choose among the freshest items.&nbsp;Joni uses an iPhone app called Cropswap, to offer Heirloom CropBoxes by subscription. These include a variety of heirloom vegetables not offered on her website. The boxes come with scannable codes that connect to recipes from area chefs, plus ideas for preparation of these unusual products.&nbsp;It’s a remarkable business, inspired by Joni’s early days as a 4-H’er at the rural community of Hoxie, population 1,201 people. Now, that’s rural.&nbsp;Her products are only available in California, but you can learn about her company by going to<a href="http://www.hungrygardens.com/">www.hungrygardens.com</a>.&nbsp;A blue ribbon. For 4-H youth, it symbolizes a high level of achievement. For Joni Albers, that first blue ribbon also helped inspire a lifelong interest in horticulture which has now become an innovative business. We commend Joni Albers of the Hungry Gardens for making a difference with her entrepreneurial approach to produce. In her case, a blue ribbon helped encourage a green thumb.&nbsp;Thanks to K-State Research and Extension Twin Creeks District Director Stacy Brown for this story idea.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Now That’s Rural: Joni Albers, Hungry Gardens 

Betty L. Schneweis, 88, died October 2, 2020, in Odin, Kansas. She 
was born November 30, 1931, in Pawnee Rock, Kansas, the daughter of 
William and Ina (Fry) Dooling. Betty attended Larned High School.

She was married to Charles Edward Walker from 1951 to 1971. She then 
married Arthur F. Schneweis on November 19, 1971, in St. John, Kansas.

Betty and her husband Art were both self employed telephone 
contractors. They were both very patriotic and would always be at the 
veteran’s services, where she would often assist with the playing of 
taps.

Betty was a member of the Church of Christ in Great Bend. For a time 
she lived in Texas where she was a member of the Horticulture Club and 
would judge floral shows. She was very artistic and a good seamstress. 
Betty was also an avid animal lover, she loved all animals and 
especially doted on her fur babies.

Survivors include; her husband of nearly 49 years, Arthur F. 
Schneweis; son, Bruce Walker; daughters, Pat Anderson and husband Andy, 
and Lynnda Kirbow and husband Jeff; and three great grandchildren, 
Nathan, Heaven, and Brent.

She was preceded in death by her parents; husband, Charles Walker; 
infant son, Dereck John Walker, and granddaughter, Krystle Leigh.

Visitation will be 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday, with family to receive 
friends from 6-8 p.m. at the funeral home. Funeral service will be 10 
a.m., Wednesday, October 7, 2020, at Church of Christ, Great Bend, with 
Carl Feril presiding. Burial will follow in Larned Cemetery.

In lieu of flowers memorials are suggested to the Golden Belt Humane 
Society in care of Nicholson-Ricke Funeral Home, PO Box 146, Hoisington,
 KS 67544.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/10/1601841943443.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Betty L. Schneweis, 88, died October 2, 2020, in Odin, Kansas. She 
was born November 30, 1931, in Pawnee Rock, Kansas, the daughter of 
William and Ina (Fry) Dooling. Betty attended Larned High School.She was married to Charles Edward Walker from 1951 to 1971. She then 
married Arthur F. Schneweis on November 19, 1971, in St. John, Kansas.Betty and her husband Art were both self employed telephone 
contractors. They were both very patriotic and would always be at the 
veteran’s services, where she would often assist with the playing of 
taps.Betty was a member of the Church of Christ in Great Bend. For a time 
she lived in Texas where she was a member of the Horticulture Club and 
would judge floral shows. She was very artistic and a good seamstress. 
Betty was also an avid animal lover, she loved all animals and 
especially doted on her fur babies.Survivors include; her husband of nearly 49 years, Arthur F. 
Schneweis; son, Bruce Walker; daughters, Pat Anderson and husband Andy, 
and Lynnda Kirbow and husband Jeff; and three great grandchildren, 
Nathan, Heaven, and Brent.She was preceded in death by her parents; husband, Charles Walker; 
infant son, Dereck John Walker, and granddaughter, Krystle Leigh.Visitation will be 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday, with family to receive 
friends from 6-8 p.m. at the funeral home. Funeral service will be 10 
a.m., Wednesday, October 7, 2020, at Church of Christ, Great Bend, with 
Carl Feril presiding. Burial will follow in Larned Cemetery.In lieu of flowers memorials are suggested to the Golden Belt Humane 
Society in care of Nicholson-Ricke Funeral Home, PO Box 146, Hoisington,
 KS 67544.

Betty L. Schneweis

Cooler nights are increasing in frequency now that we are into October. If you have tomatoes, you may have some that are approaching maturity. Leave them on the vine until mature or until a frost is forecast. 

Tomatoes will ripen off the vine but must have reached a certain phase of maturity called the "mature green stage." Look for full-sized tomatoes with a white, star-shaped zone on the bottom end of the green fruit.&nbsp;​

When harvesting fruit before a frost, separate tomatoes into three groups for storage: those that are mostly red, those that are just starting to turn, and those that are still green. Discard tomatoes with defects such as rots or breaks in the skin. Place the tomatoes on cardboard trays or cartons but use layers of newspaper to separate fruit if stacked. Occasionally a tomato may start to rot and leak juice. The newspaper will keep the juice from contacting nearby or underlying fruit. Store groups of tomatoes at as close to 55 degrees as possible until needed.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Cooler nights are increasing in frequency now that we are into October. If you have tomatoes, you may have some that are approaching maturity. Leave them on the vine until mature or until a frost is forecast. Tomatoes will ripen off the vine but must have reached a certain phase of maturity called the "mature green stage." Look for full-sized tomatoes with a white, star-shaped zone on the bottom end of the green fruit.&nbsp;​When harvesting fruit before a frost, separate tomatoes into three groups for storage: those that are mostly red, those that are just starting to turn, and those that are still green. Discard tomatoes with defects such as rots or breaks in the skin. Place the tomatoes on cardboard trays or cartons but use layers of newspaper to separate fruit if stacked. Occasionally a tomato may start to rot and leak juice. The newspaper will keep the juice from contacting nearby or underlying fruit. Store groups of tomatoes at as close to 55 degrees as possible until needed.&nbsp;&nbsp;Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.&nbsp;

FICK: Last tomatoes of the season 

By CRISTINA JANNEY Hays Post

When school was forced to go to remote learning this spring, Tasha Lang and her staff at the STAR program at Roosevelt Elementary School went into overdrive.

Karen&nbsp;McCullough, nominated Lang, a low-incidents special education teacher, for September's Hays Post Teacher of the Month for the help she provided her special needs daughter, Natalie, during the shutdown.&nbsp;

"We saw regression in our daughter after a few days of being home, as she could not cognitively understand why she couldn't go to school and spend time with the teachers and friends she loves,"&nbsp;McCullough said.

The family reached out to Lang and asked how they could work with her to make remote learning possible for Natalie. Within a day, Natalie's desk at school arrived at the family's home with tubs of learning materials, which Lang and her paras used to work online with Natalie for three 30-minute Zoom sessions each day.

"Our daughter really liked connecting with teachers and paras and learning from our home,"&nbsp;McCullough said. "She regained old skills and learned new skills while at home."

McCullough added, "Mrs. Tasha and her team at STAR school did an amazing job of supporting families and dealing with so many uncertainties. 

"We are forever grateful of the support Mrs. Tasha has given our daughter throughout her time as her teacher and appreciate all the work she did to ensure she could continue to learn from home, which was not an easy feat!"

McCullough was not the only one singing Lang's praises.

"Tasha’s dedication to her students is not only while they are in her class, but also outside the classroom," Renee Hoffman said in a Teacher of the Month nomination.

"I have seen her attend many events that her students have participated in. Her tears of happiness for their accomplishments are evidence of her love for her students and her special education career."

 Jamie Wolbert also said in a nomination, "Tasha works with students with special needs with such care and compassion. She also has many paras who work for her, and she is just as kind and compassionate with them. She is overall the teacher I aim to be."

Lang said she was honored to hear the kind words.

"I'm emotional to think people see what we do day in and day out and they appreciate it, because, to us, it's a job," she said,&nbsp; "and we love it. It's normal day-to-day activities."

When the students moved to online learning in the spring, Lang and other special education teachers trained on how to deal with remote learning.

"The biggest thing that I took from that training was we have to presume potential for our students, and so that was our mindset all through remote," Lang said.

Parents learned their children could do things at home they never knew they could do by using their communication devices or visual aids and putting schedules in place.&nbsp;

She said the parents did a great job connecting with the school staff and helping their kids grow while they were at home.

"We are ready," she said. "For any reason we have to hybrid or remote again, I think we have a good plan in place."

Sending kids home was hard emotionally on the teachers and staff.

Lang cried when she learned the students would not finish their school year in person.&nbsp;

"It was very hard to know there was never a goodbye or end to it," she said. "We usually have an end-of-the-year party."

Lang and staff dropped off gifts and activities for the kids at their doors during the shutdown. Parents also sent pictures back to the teachers of the children completing their activities.

She said she never wants to go remote again.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/9/1600974230751.jpeg" alt="Tasha Lang, special education teacher at Roosevelt Elementary School, is September's Hays Post Teacher of the Month." />
 <figcaption>Tasha Lang, special education teacher at Roosevelt Elementary School, is September's Hays Post Teacher of the Month.</figcaption>
 </figure>By CRISTINA JANNEY Hays PostWhen school was forced to go to remote learning this spring, Tasha Lang and her staff at the STAR program at Roosevelt Elementary School went into overdrive.Karen&nbsp;McCullough, nominated Lang, a low-incidents special education teacher, for September's Hays Post Teacher of the Month for the help she provided her special needs daughter, Natalie, during the shutdown.&nbsp;"We saw regression in our daughter after a few days of being home, as she could not cognitively understand why she couldn't go to school and spend time with the teachers and friends she loves,"&nbsp;McCullough said.The family reached out to Lang and asked how they could work with her to make remote learning possible for Natalie. Within a day, Natalie's desk at school arrived at the family's home with tubs of learning materials, which Lang and her paras used to work online with Natalie for three 30-minute Zoom sessions each day."Our daughter really liked connecting with teachers and paras and learning from our home,"&nbsp;McCullough said. "She regained old skills and learned new skills while at home."McCullough added, "Mrs. Tasha and her team at STAR school did an amazing job of supporting families and dealing with so many uncertainties. "We are forever grateful of the support Mrs. Tasha has given our daughter throughout her time as her teacher and appreciate all the work she did to ensure she could continue to learn from home, which was not an easy feat!"McCullough was not the only one singing Lang's praises."Tasha’s dedication to her students is not only while they are in her class, but also outside the classroom," Renee Hoffman said in a Teacher of the Month nomination."I have seen her attend many events that her students have participated in. Her tears of happiness for their accomplishments are evidence of her love for her students and her special education career." Jamie Wolbert also said in a nomination, "Tasha works with students with special needs with such care and compassion. She also has many paras who work for her, and she is just as kind and compassionate with them. She is overall the teacher I aim to be."Lang said she was honored to hear the kind words."I'm emotional to think people see what we do day in and day out and they appreciate it, because, to us, it's a job," she said,&nbsp; "and we love it. It's normal day-to-day activities."When the students moved to online learning in the spring, Lang and other special education teachers trained on how to deal with remote learning."The biggest thing that I took from that training was we have to presume potential for our students, and so that was our mindset all through remote," Lang said.Parents learned their children could do things at home they never knew they could do by using their communication devices or visual aids and putting schedules in place.&nbsp;She said the parents did a great job connecting with the school staff and helping their kids grow while they were at home."We are ready," she said. "For any reason we have to hybrid or remote again, I think we have a good plan in place."Sending kids home was hard emotionally on the teachers and staff.Lang cried when she learned the students would not finish their school year in person.&nbsp;"It was very hard to know there was never a goodbye or end to it," she said. "We usually have an end-of-the-year party."Lang and staff dropped off gifts and activities for the kids at their doors during the shutdown. Parents also sent pictures back to the teachers of the children completing their activities.She said she never wants to go remote again."Contact with the kids is what myself and my paras need day in and day out," Lang said. "It's what keeps us going. It keeps us thinking about how we can better their education and better their lives and their life skills."Lang said she gets excited every time a student learns a new word."I love seeing how smart they are," she said.&nbsp;"Today, a kid, we spaced out her letters. She was able to tell us what the letter N was," Lang said. "It was a big celebration in here that she does know. We just have to pursue potential and change things up to help them show us how they learn."Lang said STAR is like a family, not only for her, but all her staff. Twenty students are part of the STAR program this year."We don't just stop at 3 o'clock. There is a lot of family contact time after," she said. "There are pictures and videos shared from school to home."Lang, 34, said she fell in love with special education as a peer tutor when she was a student at Hays Middle School. As a senior at HHS,&nbsp; she worked with students in the life skills class as part of a horticulture therapy project.She went on to study at Kansas State University, where she earned a bachelor's degree in elementary education, special education. She received a master's degree at K-State in low-incidents and high-incidents special education. She also has an autism certificate from Pittsburg State University.Lang started her career in the Maize school district before moving back to Hays in 2012. She taught at Wilson Elementary School before the STAR program merged at Roosevelt in 2017.STAR gives a place for students with special needs to belong, Lang said."Not all of our students can participate in outside sports," she said. "They can call this place home. They have friends. They have staff who care about them. They get to do fun activities outside in the community."&nbsp;