MANHATTAN, Kan. – It’s January, it’s cold and many landscapes are covered with snow, but in Kansas and surrounding areas, gardeners are heeding a similar set of commands: Ready, Set…Go?&nbsp;

“Planning for and starting vegetable and flower transplants,” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham, “can make this a much more interesting time of year.”&nbsp;

Steadfast gardeners know that the first of the year is an ideal time for purchasing quality seed. Specific to Kansas, Upham said K-State Research and Extension publishes a&nbsp;<a href="http://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/L41.pdf">guide of recommended vegetable varieties</a>&nbsp;to help gardeners get started.&nbsp;

“These plants have proven themselves across the state of Kansas and this is a good place to start when deciding what to plant,” Upham said. “However, also talk to your neighbors, friends and your local garden center about what has worked well for them.”&nbsp;

Upham said most garden centers and seed catalogs are reputable sources for quality seeds. If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, “pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year,” he said.&nbsp;

“Though most seed remains viable for about three years, germination decreases as seed ages. (Buying current seed) allows you to keep seed for a longer period of time with an expectation of good germination.”&nbsp;

Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>,&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html">local extension office</a>.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <iframe width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VPW_pirdliw"></iframe>
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Cold? Snow? No matter to gardeners&nbsp;</h2>K-State Research &amp; ExtensionMANHATTAN, Kan. – It’s January, it’s cold and many landscapes are covered with snow, but in Kansas and surrounding areas, gardeners are heeding a similar set of commands: Ready, Set…Go?&nbsp;“Planning for and starting vegetable and flower transplants,” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham, “can make this a much more interesting time of year.”&nbsp;Steadfast gardeners know that the first of the year is an ideal time for purchasing quality seed. Specific to Kansas, Upham said K-State Research and Extension publishes a&nbsp;<a href="http://www.bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/L41.pdf">guide of recommended vegetable varieties</a>&nbsp;to help gardeners get started.&nbsp;“These plants have proven themselves across the state of Kansas and this is a good place to start when deciding what to plant,” Upham said. “However, also talk to your neighbors, friends and your local garden center about what has worked well for them.”&nbsp;Upham said most garden centers and seed catalogs are reputable sources for quality seeds. If choosing seeds from a business that does not specialize in plants, “pay special attention to the package date to make sure the seed was packaged for the current year,” he said.&nbsp;“Though most seed remains viable for about three years, germination decreases as seed ages. (Buying current seed) allows you to keep seed for a longer period of time with an expectation of good germination.”&nbsp;Additional tips include:&nbsp;&nbsp; <ul>
 <li>Determine the ‘Date to Seed’ when purchasing seeds. Gardeners who start growing plants indoors should also know their target date for transplanting outside. For example, late March and early April is the target date for transplanting broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and onions; most annual flowers are not planted until May 10 or later. &nbsp;</li><li>Do not use garden soil to germinate seed indoors; Upham said garden soil is too heavy and may contain disease organisms. “Use a media made especially for seed germination,” he said. &nbsp;</li><li>Seed must be kept moist to germinate. Water often enough so that the media never dries. “Using a clear plastic wrap over the top of the container can reduce the amount of watering needed,” Upham said. “Remove the wrap after the seedlings emerge.” &nbsp;</li><li>Many plants will germinate in darkness or light, but some require darkness only. All plants require adequate amounts of light once emergence occurs. South-facing windows may not provide enough light, so fluorescent or LED lights may be needed. &nbsp;</li><li>The temperature best for germination is often higher than what we commonly keep inside homes. “Moving the container to the ceiling or top of a refrigerator can help, but a heating mat is best for consistent germination,” Upham said. &nbsp;</li><li>Plants react to movement. Brushing over the plants with your hand stimulates them to become more stocky and less ‘leggy,’ according to Upham. Try 20 brushing strokes per day, he said. &nbsp;</li><li>Harden plants by moving them outside and exposing them to sun and wind before transplanting occurs. Start gradually two weeks out and increase the number of hours and degrees of exposure over the two-week period.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>,&nbsp;or contact your&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html">local extension office</a>.&nbsp;

🎥 K-State horticulture expert says now’s the time to select seeds, begin transplants 

Sandra Diane Vap, 65, of Atwood, died Wednesday, December 15, 2021, at 
the Good Samaritan Society, in Atwood.  She was born on April 22, 1956, 
at the Rawlins County Hospital, in Atwood, to Daniel S. and Blanche O. 
(Quiroz) Vap. 

Sandy grew up on the family farm with three brothers and a
 sister. She graduated from Atwood High School in 1974. Sandy attended 
Fort Hays State University and Kansas State University after graduation.
 Sandy was married to John Roche and to this union were born two sons, 
Cullen Daniel and Aaron Michael. 
Sandy had a lifelong love of animals and horticulture. She loved 
gardening and took many animals into her home. She had a very strong 
Christian faith and spoke with God daily. Sandy loved sharing her love 
of Jesus with others. 
Sandy was preceded in death by her father Daniel Stanley Vap. 
She is survived by her sons, Cullen and Aaron; her mother Blanche; 
sister Rena Staats; brothers, Allan (Dianne), Gary and Jeff (Linda); 
nieces and nephews, Chanelle Staats (Sean), Danielle McNeal, Taylor 
(Audrey) Vap, Dylan (Amanda)Vap, Anna Lea Vap, Derik (Lindsay) Vap, 
Tyson (Shelby) Vap, Dustin (Macy) Vap and Daniel Vap; many great nieces 
and nephews and a host of friends. 
Visitation is 5-7:00 p.m. with a Vigil at 7:00 p.m., Friday, December 
17, 2021, at Baalmann Mortuary, Atwood. Funeral Mass is at 10:00 a.m. 
Saturday, December 18, 2021, at Sacred Heart Catholic Church, Atwood, 
with burial in Sts. Cyril and Methodius Cemetery, Rural Rawlins County, 
KS. Memorials may be made to the National Multiple Sclerosis Society and
 sent in care of Baalmann Mortuary, PO Box 391, Colby, KS 67701. For 
information visit www.baalmannmortuary.com&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/12/1639678313807.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Sandra Diane Vap, 65, of Atwood, died Wednesday, December 15, 2021, at 
the Good Samaritan Society, in Atwood. She was born on April 22, 1956, 
at the Rawlins County Hospital, in Atwood, to Daniel S. and Blanche O. 
(Quiroz) Vap. Sandy grew up on the family farm with three brothers and a
 sister. She graduated from Atwood High School in 1974. Sandy attended 
Fort Hays State University and Kansas State University after graduation.
 Sandy was married to John Roche and to this union were born two sons, 
Cullen Daniel and Aaron Michael. 
Sandy had a lifelong love of animals and horticulture. She loved 
gardening and took many animals into her home. She had a very strong 
Christian faith and spoke with God daily. Sandy loved sharing her love 
of Jesus with others. 
Sandy was preceded in death by her father Daniel Stanley Vap. 
She is survived by her sons, Cullen and Aaron; her mother Blanche; 
sister Rena Staats; brothers, Allan (Dianne), Gary and Jeff (Linda); 
nieces and nephews, Chanelle Staats (Sean), Danielle McNeal, Taylor 
(Audrey) Vap, Dylan (Amanda)Vap, Anna Lea Vap, Derik (Lindsay) Vap, 
Tyson (Shelby) Vap, Dustin (Macy) Vap and Daniel Vap; many great nieces 
and nephews and a host of friends. 
Visitation is 5-7:00 p.m. with a Vigil at 7:00 p.m., Friday, December 
17, 2021, at Baalmann Mortuary, Atwood. Funeral Mass is at 10:00 a.m. 
Saturday, December 18, 2021, at Sacred Heart Catholic Church, Atwood, 
with burial in Sts. Cyril and Methodius Cemetery, Rural Rawlins County, 
KS. Memorials may be made to the National Multiple Sclerosis Society and
 sent in care of Baalmann Mortuary, PO Box 391, Colby, KS 67701. For 
information visit www.baalmannmortuary.com&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

Sandra Diane Vap

I am often asked what exactly is “K-State Research and Extension” and about the Cottonwood Extension District. Those are great questions and I hope that I can answer for you.

K-State Research and Extension is a statewide network of educators sharing unbiased, research-based information and expertise on issues important to Kansas.&nbsp;

K-State Research and Extension is a short name for the Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service, a partner in the nationwide land-grant system of universities that was created in the 1860s to educate people from all walks of life and to generate and distribute useful public knowledge. K-State scientists and extension faculty can draw on the expertise and accumulated studies and discoveries of the land-grant system, other universities, state and federal agencies, and industry. Headquartered on campus in Manhattan, K-State Research and Extension includes statewide county or district extension offices, research centers, and experiment fields supported by county, state, federal, and private funds.

It is dedicated to a safe, sustainable, competitive food and fiber system and to strong, healthy communities, families, and youth through integrated research, analysis and education.

With 131 years of research and 104 years of extension, K-State Research and Extension has been improving the quality of life and standard of living for Kansans for a century. Research completed is used by extension agents and others to help solve community issues.

This integrated system connects the university to every county through locally based educators who serve as sources of objective information. The Cottonwood Extension District was established July 1, 2017 and includes Barton and Ellis counties. An extension district addresses the changing demographics in Kansas as well as providing the ability for extension agents to be more specialized in their programming while providing education to a broader audience. Each county continues to have an office with access to research and educational opportunities in all program areas. There are currently seven extension agents across the Cottonwood Extension District covering crop production, livestock production, family and consumer science, family and community wellness, horticulture, and positive youth development.

If you have questions about what Extension can do for you? Give us a call! Quite a few years ago, I had a co-worker get cheese dip on his favorite tie and our first call was to Donna at the Extension Office to see what the best cleaning options were! Our ag agents can provide a wealth of information about improving production processes; family and community wellness agents provide educational opportunities for our communities to improve their health on physical, mental, and emotional levels. 4-H Youth Development agents are active with school, after-school, library, and recreation center programs in addition to traditional 4-H club activities!

Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness.

Michelle Beran is the 4-H and Youth Development Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District – Barton County office. For more information on this article or other 4-H and Youth Development related questions, email Michelle at <a href="mailto:mberan@ksu.edu">mberan@ksu.edu</a> or call 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/1/1579114162620.jpeg" alt="Michelle Beran is the 4-H and Youth Development Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Michelle Beran is the 4-H and Youth Development Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>I am often asked what exactly is “K-State Research and Extension” and about the Cottonwood Extension District. Those are great questions and I hope that I can answer for you.K-State Research and Extension is a statewide network of educators sharing unbiased, research-based information and expertise on issues important to Kansas.&nbsp;K-State Research and Extension is a short name for the Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service, a partner in the nationwide land-grant system of universities that was created in the 1860s to educate people from all walks of life and to generate and distribute useful public knowledge. K-State scientists and extension faculty can draw on the expertise and accumulated studies and discoveries of the land-grant system, other universities, state and federal agencies, and industry. Headquartered on campus in Manhattan, K-State Research and Extension includes statewide county or district extension offices, research centers, and experiment fields supported by county, state, federal, and private funds.It is dedicated to a safe, sustainable, competitive food and fiber system and to strong, healthy communities, families, and youth through integrated research, analysis and education.With 131 years of research and 104 years of extension, K-State Research and Extension has been improving the quality of life and standard of living for Kansans for a century. Research completed is used by extension agents and others to help solve community issues.This integrated system connects the university to every county through locally based educators who serve as sources of objective information. The Cottonwood Extension District was established July 1, 2017 and includes Barton and Ellis counties. An extension district addresses the changing demographics in Kansas as well as providing the ability for extension agents to be more specialized in their programming while providing education to a broader audience. Each county continues to have an office with access to research and educational opportunities in all program areas. There are currently seven extension agents across the Cottonwood Extension District covering crop production, livestock production, family and consumer science, family and community wellness, horticulture, and positive youth development.If you have questions about what Extension can do for you? Give us a call! Quite a few years ago, I had a co-worker get cheese dip on his favorite tie and our first call was to Donna at the Extension Office to see what the best cleaning options were! Our ag agents can provide a wealth of information about improving production processes; family and community wellness agents provide educational opportunities for our communities to improve their health on physical, mental, and emotional levels. 4-H Youth Development agents are active with school, after-school, library, and recreation center programs in addition to traditional 4-H club activities!Keep learning. Keep showing grace and kindness.Michelle Beran is the 4-H and Youth Development Agent in the Cottonwood Extension District – Barton County office. For more information on this article or other 4-H and Youth Development related questions, email Michelle at <a href="mailto:mberan@ksu.edu">mberan@ksu.edu</a> or call 620-793-1910.

BERAN: A closer look at your Extension district

To the community members of Barton and Ellis Counties,&nbsp;

I am writing this letter with appreciation and gratitude. Change is never easy, but always constant.&nbsp;&nbsp;At the beginning of November, I announced to the constituents of the Cottonwood Extension District that I had been offered a new career opportunity and elected to take the position, which I will start at the beginning of December.&nbsp;

Being the horticulture agent for both Ellis and Barton counties has been such a rewarding experience and is one that has helped shape me not only as a professional but as a person in general. When I first landed my job with K-State Research &amp; Extension, I had no idea how much the communities of Barton and Ellis Counties would impact my life. I would like to thank you all for trusting my knowledge and supporting the programs I hosted in each community over the past two and a half years. I am so thankful to have gotten the opportunity to work with and become friends with many of you in these communities and will miss serving as your horticulture agent.&nbsp;

As I transition out of my position with K-State Research &amp; Extension, I would encourage you all to continue to support Cottonwood Extension programming. There are many amazing programs and so much knowledge that can be obtained through publications and interactive classes. After I leave, the Extension Master Gardeners, along with fellow agents will happily assist you with any horticulture-related questions and can be reached at our offices in Hays and Great Bend.&nbsp;You may also find horticulture information through the University at&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/" target="_blank">https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/</a>.&nbsp;

Thank you again and I extend my best wishes for the future.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="written by: Lauren Walz - Cottonwood Extension District" />
 <figcaption>written by: Lauren Walz - Cottonwood Extension District</figcaption>
 </figure>To the community members of Barton and Ellis Counties,&nbsp;I am writing this letter with appreciation and gratitude. Change is never easy, but always constant.&nbsp;&nbsp;At the beginning of November, I announced to the constituents of the Cottonwood Extension District that I had been offered a new career opportunity and elected to take the position, which I will start at the beginning of December.&nbsp;Being the horticulture agent for both Ellis and Barton counties has been such a rewarding experience and is one that has helped shape me not only as a professional but as a person in general. When I first landed my job with K-State Research &amp; Extension, I had no idea how much the communities of Barton and Ellis Counties would impact my life. I would like to thank you all for trusting my knowledge and supporting the programs I hosted in each community over the past two and a half years. I am so thankful to have gotten the opportunity to work with and become friends with many of you in these communities and will miss serving as your horticulture agent.&nbsp;As I transition out of my position with K-State Research &amp; Extension, I would encourage you all to continue to support Cottonwood Extension programming. There are many amazing programs and so much knowledge that can be obtained through publications and interactive classes. After I leave, the Extension Master Gardeners, along with fellow agents will happily assist you with any horticulture-related questions and can be reached at our offices in Hays and Great Bend.&nbsp;You may also find horticulture information through the University at&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/" target="_blank">https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/</a>.&nbsp;Thank you again and I extend my best wishes for the future.Sincerely, &nbsp;Lauren Walz&nbsp;

WALZ: Blooming a new beginning 

By TAYLOR JAMISON K-State Research and Extension&nbsp;

MANHATTAN, Kan. — Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said it’s important to let the light shine on poinsettias, often a favorite flower for the fall and winter months.&nbsp;

“Place your poinsettias in a sunny window or brightest area of the room,” Upham said, “but don’t let it touch the cold window panes.”&nbsp;

If windows become drafty at night, it is best to remove poinsettias or draw drapes to avoid cold damage.&nbsp;

For the best bloom results, Upham suggests keeping poinsettias at temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheith – 75 F during the day, and 60-65 F at night. He said blooms won’t last as long at temperatures higher than 75 F; root rot may occur at temperatures lower than 60 F.&nbsp;

Poinsettias are also quite finicky about soil moisture conditions. Upham recommends checking soil moisture daily by sticking your finger in the soil, about one-half inch deep.&nbsp;

“If it is dry to this depth, the plant needs water,” he said. “When it becomes dry to the touch, water the plant with lukewarm water until some water runs out of the drainage hole, then discard the drainage water.”&nbsp;

Following the temperature and soil moisture guidelines should keep poinsettias in top shape during the holiday season, he said.&nbsp;

A rumor that often surfaces around times when poinsettias are at their prime is that they are poisonous. Although their milky sap may sometimes cause a mild allergic reaction in some people, there has never been a recorded case of poisoning.&nbsp;

“This rumor has been so persistent that members of the Society of American Florists have sought to dispel it by eating poinsettia leaves for the press,” Upham said.&nbsp;

According to the American Medical Association Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, poinsettias do not contain an irritant or toxin; have not been found to produce an effect orally or topically; and have not caused cases of vomiting.&nbsp;

Although consuming them is not advised, Upham said poinsettias are otherwise completely safe.&nbsp;

If you do not already have a poinsettia but are interested in purchasing one, the Kansas State University Friends of the Garden hosts an annual poinsettia sale.&nbsp;

The in-person sale will be held from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Nov. 19 at the K-State Gardens’ visitor center, 1500 Denison in Manhattan. More information and prices&nbsp;<a href="https://www.k-state.edu/gardens/events/plant-sales.html">is available online.</a>&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office.</a>&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/11/1637246402294.jpg" alt="Photo courtesy Pixabay" />
 <figcaption>Photo courtesy Pixabay</figcaption>
 </figure>By TAYLOR JAMISON K-State Research and Extension&nbsp;MANHATTAN, Kan. — Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said it’s important to let the light shine on poinsettias, often a favorite flower for the fall and winter months.&nbsp;“Place your poinsettias in a sunny window or brightest area of the room,” Upham said, “but don’t let it touch the cold window panes.”&nbsp;If windows become drafty at night, it is best to remove poinsettias or draw drapes to avoid cold damage.&nbsp;For the best bloom results, Upham suggests keeping poinsettias at temperatures between 65 degrees Fahrenheith – 75 F during the day, and 60-65 F at night. He said blooms won’t last as long at temperatures higher than 75 F; root rot may occur at temperatures lower than 60 F.&nbsp;Poinsettias are also quite finicky about soil moisture conditions. Upham recommends checking soil moisture daily by sticking your finger in the soil, about one-half inch deep.&nbsp;“If it is dry to this depth, the plant needs water,” he said. “When it becomes dry to the touch, water the plant with lukewarm water until some water runs out of the drainage hole, then discard the drainage water.”&nbsp;Following the temperature and soil moisture guidelines should keep poinsettias in top shape during the holiday season, he said.&nbsp;Are Poinsettias Poisonous?&nbsp;A rumor that often surfaces around times when poinsettias are at their prime is that they are poisonous. Although their milky sap may sometimes cause a mild allergic reaction in some people, there has never been a recorded case of poisoning.&nbsp;“This rumor has been so persistent that members of the Society of American Florists have sought to dispel it by eating poinsettia leaves for the press,” Upham said.&nbsp;According to the American Medical Association Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, poinsettias do not contain an irritant or toxin; have not been found to produce an effect orally or topically; and have not caused cases of vomiting.&nbsp;Although consuming them is not advised, Upham said poinsettias are otherwise completely safe.&nbsp;Where to Buy Poinsettias&nbsp;If you do not already have a poinsettia but are interested in purchasing one, the Kansas State University Friends of the Garden hosts an annual poinsettia sale.&nbsp;The in-person sale will be held from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Nov. 19 at the K-State Gardens’ visitor center, 1500 Denison in Manhattan. More information and prices&nbsp;<a href="https://www.k-state.edu/gardens/events/plant-sales.html">is available online.</a>&nbsp;Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">local K-State Research and Extension office.</a>&nbsp;

Horticulture expert shares how to care for poinsettias

Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs (especially daffodils) in October to give them enough time to root before winter. But it is certainly not too late to plant them in early November. If the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs should continue root development. 

You can find the previous week’s soil temperature readings for areas across the state from our Weather Data Library at&nbsp;<a href="http://mesonet.k-state.edu/agriculture/soiltemp/">http://mesonet.k-state.edu/agriculture/soiltemp/</a>Although many of the best bulbs have probably already been purchased, garden centers may still have a good selection. Be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout. While many bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, none can tolerate poorly drained soil. &nbsp;Prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix it into the soil.Adequate fertility is essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been fertilized regularly in the past may have excess levels of phosphorus. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the uptake of other essential micronutrients though levels need to be extremely high to be of concern. &nbsp;In cases where levels of phosphorus are high, it would be better to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. &nbsp;Although these are lawn fertilizers, they will work well for our purposes if they don’t contain and weed preventer or weed killer. &nbsp;Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 2/3 pounds (3 cups) per 100 square feet. &nbsp; Organic sources of fertilizers low in phosphorus include blood meal (12-0-0) applied at 2 pounds per 100 square feet (1 tsp per sq ft), cottonseed meal (6-0.4-1.5) applied at the rate of 3 pounds per 100 square feet (2 tsp /per sq ft) and soybean meal (7-2-1) applied at the rate of 3 pounds per 100 square feet (2 tsp /per sq ft). In the absence of a soil test, or if phosphorus is needed, add a low analysis, balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 at the rate of 3 pounds (6 cups) per 100 square feet of bed or 2 tsp/per sq ft. Mix all amendments thoroughly with the soil before planting the bulbs. The size and species of the bulb determine how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the bulb should be about 2 to 3 times the size of the bulb but check the planting instructions specific to each flower. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Generally, it is recommended to plant hardy bulbs (especially daffodils) in October to give them enough time to root before winter. But it is certainly not too late to plant them in early November. If the soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F, the bulbs should continue root development. You can find the previous week’s soil temperature readings for areas across the state from our Weather Data Library at&nbsp;<a href="http://mesonet.k-state.edu/agriculture/soiltemp/">http://mesonet.k-state.edu/agriculture/soiltemp/</a>Although many of the best bulbs have probably already been purchased, garden centers may still have a good selection. Be sure to select large, firm bulbs that have not begun to sprout. While many bulbs can adapt to a wide range of soil types, none can tolerate poorly drained soil. &nbsp;Prepare the planting bed by adding organic matter such as peat moss, well-rotted manure, or compost and mix it into the soil.Adequate fertility is essential. It is best to rely on a soil test to determine what nutrients are needed. Garden soils that have been fertilized regularly in the past may have excess levels of phosphorus. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the uptake of other essential micronutrients though levels need to be extremely high to be of concern. &nbsp;In cases where levels of phosphorus are high, it would be better to use a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen such as a 29-5-4, 27-3-3, or something similar. &nbsp;Although these are lawn fertilizers, they will work well for our purposes if they don’t contain and weed preventer or weed killer. &nbsp;Apply these fertilizers at the rate of 2/3 pounds (3 cups) per 100 square feet. &nbsp; Organic sources of fertilizers low in phosphorus include blood meal (12-0-0) applied at 2 pounds per 100 square feet (1 tsp per sq ft), cottonseed meal (6-0.4-1.5) applied at the rate of 3 pounds per 100 square feet (2 tsp /per sq ft) and soybean meal (7-2-1) applied at the rate of 3 pounds per 100 square feet (2 tsp /per sq ft). In the absence of a soil test, or if phosphorus is needed, add a low analysis, balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 at the rate of 3 pounds (6 cups) per 100 square feet of bed or 2 tsp/per sq ft. Mix all amendments thoroughly with the soil before planting the bulbs. The size and species of the bulb determine how deep to plant. In general, the depth to the bottom of the bulb should be about 2 to 3 times the size of the bulb but check the planting instructions specific to each flower. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​WALZ: There is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs 

Pruning in August can stimulate new growth that is less hardy during the winter. But what about pruning at this time of year?

Woody plants move sugars and other materials from the leaves to storage places in the woody portions of the plant just prior to leaf fall and we would like to maximize those stored energy reserves. Even pruning later in the fall can cause a problem by reducing the cold hardiness of woody plants.

Dr. Rich Marini at Penn State Extension has written, “Based on everything that has been published we can conclude that woody plants do not attain maximum cold hardiness when they are pruned in the fall. Trees are affected more by heavy pruning than light pruning. 

"However, this does not mean that woody plants pruned in the fall will necessarily suffer winter damage. In most cases, I think we can get away with the adage of “prune whenever your pruners are sharp.” 

However, damage can occur if we have a sharp drop in temperature before plants are completely hardened off. &nbsp;Also, marginally hardy plants are more susceptible to winter damage, especially if pruned in the fall. &nbsp;Though light pruning and removal of dead wood are fine this time of year, you may want to delay severe pruning until spring.

Consider pruning to be “light” if 10 percent or less of the plant is removed. Deadwood does not count in this calculation.

Keep in mind that even light pruning of spring-blooming shrubs such as lilac and forsythia will reduce flowers for next year. We normally recommend that spring-bloomers be pruned after flowering.​

Shrubs differ in how severely they can be cut back. Junipers do not break buds from within the plant and therefore should be trimmed lightly if you wish to keep the full shape.

Overgrown junipers should be removed. On the other hand, there are certain shrubs that can be pruned back severely during the spring. Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes.

All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This works well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, sweet mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Just remember that spring is the correct time to do this, not now. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. " />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. </figcaption>
 </figure>Pruning in August can stimulate new growth that is less hardy during the winter. But what about pruning at this time of year?Woody plants move sugars and other materials from the leaves to storage places in the woody portions of the plant just prior to leaf fall and we would like to maximize those stored energy reserves. Even pruning later in the fall can cause a problem by reducing the cold hardiness of woody plants.Dr. Rich Marini at Penn State Extension has written, “Based on everything that has been published we can conclude that woody plants do not attain maximum cold hardiness when they are pruned in the fall. Trees are affected more by heavy pruning than light pruning. "However, this does not mean that woody plants pruned in the fall will necessarily suffer winter damage. In most cases, I think we can get away with the adage of “prune whenever your pruners are sharp.” However, damage can occur if we have a sharp drop in temperature before plants are completely hardened off. &nbsp;Also, marginally hardy plants are more susceptible to winter damage, especially if pruned in the fall. &nbsp;Though light pruning and removal of dead wood are fine this time of year, you may want to delay severe pruning until spring.Consider pruning to be “light” if 10 percent or less of the plant is removed. Deadwood does not count in this calculation.Keep in mind that even light pruning of spring-blooming shrubs such as lilac and forsythia will reduce flowers for next year. We normally recommend that spring-bloomers be pruned after flowering.​Shrubs differ in how severely they can be cut back. Junipers do not break buds from within the plant and therefore should be trimmed lightly if you wish to keep the full shape.Overgrown junipers should be removed. On the other hand, there are certain shrubs that can be pruned back severely during the spring. Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes.All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This works well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, sweet mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Just remember that spring is the correct time to do this, not now. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

Walz: Pruning trees, shrubs in fall

Hoses and shallow irrigation lines may be damaged over the winter if water is not drained. If there is a main shut-off valve for the system, close it and then run through the zones to make sure any pressure has a chance to bleed off. Lawn irrigation systems usually have shallow lines. 

Though some lines may be self-draining, check to be sure there are no manual drains. If manual drains are present, they should be opened. Be sure to map them so they can be closed next spring before the system is pressurized. &nbsp;If there are no manual drains the system should be blown out with an air compressor. &nbsp;Lawn irrigation companies often offer this service. Drain hoses by stretching them out and coiling them for storage. Water will drain as you pull the hose toward you for coiling. Store in a protected place. UV light can make hoses brittle over time. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Hoses and shallow irrigation lines may be damaged over the winter if water is not drained. If there is a main shut-off valve for the system, close it and then run through the zones to make sure any pressure has a chance to bleed off. Lawn irrigation systems usually have shallow lines. Though some lines may be self-draining, check to be sure there are no manual drains. If manual drains are present, they should be opened. Be sure to map them so they can be closed next spring before the system is pressurized. &nbsp;If there are no manual drains the system should be blown out with an air compressor. &nbsp;Lawn irrigation companies often offer this service. Drain hoses by stretching them out and coiling them for storage. Water will drain as you pull the hose toward you for coiling. Store in a protected place. UV light can make hoses brittle over time. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​WALZ: Draining hoses and irrigation lines

MANHATTAN — The Kansas Department of Agriculture is now accepting applications for the 2021 Specialty Crop Block Grant H.R. 133 Stimulus Program. This program is in addition to the traditional Specialty Crop Block Grant Program. Awards for that program will be announced later this fall.&nbsp;

Funds for both grant programs are awarded to the agency by the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Marketing Service. 

The funds are in turn granted to projects and organizations to enhance the competitiveness of specialty crops by leveraging efforts to market and promote specialty crops; assisting producers with research and development relevant to specialty crops; expanding availability and access to specialty crops; and addressing local, regional, and national challenges confronting specialty crop producers. 

Specialty crops are defined by the USDA as “fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits, horticulture, and nursery crops, including floriculture.”

Due to COVID-19 impacts on the food system, Congress authorized one-time additional funding for the Specialty Crop Block Grant H.R. 133 Stimulus Program outside of the traditional Farm Bill funding under the 2021 Consolidated Appropriations Act. Kansas is expected to receive approximately $450,000 in H.R. 133 Stimulus funding for the 2021 grant cycle.

Applications will be evaluated by a team of external reviewers. The team will rate proposals on their ability to successfully promote specialty crops in Kansas and make a positive impact on the Kansas economy. Those recommendations will be submitted to the Kansas Secretary of Agriculture, who will make the final awards.

Applications are due to KDA no later than 5:00 p.m. CST on November 24, 2021. For more information, please download the 2021 KDA Request for Applications from:&nbsp;<a href="https://lnks.gd/l/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJidWxsZXRpbl9saW5rX2lkIjoxMDAsInVyaSI6ImJwMjpjbGljayIsImJ1bGxldGluX2lkIjoiMjAyMTEwMDcuNDcwMzA4MTEiLCJ1cmwiOiJodHRwczovL2FncmljdWx0dXJlLmtzLmdvdi9zcGVjaWFsdHljcm9wP3V0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX3NvdXJjZT1nb3ZkZWxpdmVyeSJ9.mRIBPLsHrCoc1M5vHd5Baqex7nb85Dbh0Fa7_Nbt83g/s/1377890594/br/113551709257-l" target="_blank">agriculture.ks.gov/specialtycrop</a>.

The vision of the Kansas Department of Agriculture is to provide an ideal environment for long-term, sustainable agricultural prosperity and statewide economic growth. To achieve this vision, the agency advocates for sectors at all levels and provides industry outreach.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/10/1633973653590.jpeg" alt="Bobwhite Vines LLC, of Hartford, Kansas (Courtesy photo)" />
 <figcaption>Bobwhite Vines LLC, of Hartford, Kansas (Courtesy photo)</figcaption>
 </figure>KDAMANHATTAN — The Kansas Department of Agriculture is now accepting applications for the 2021 Specialty Crop Block Grant H.R. 133 Stimulus Program. This program is in addition to the traditional Specialty Crop Block Grant Program. Awards for that program will be announced later this fall.&nbsp;Funds for both grant programs are awarded to the agency by the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Marketing Service. The funds are in turn granted to projects and organizations to enhance the competitiveness of specialty crops by leveraging efforts to market and promote specialty crops; assisting producers with research and development relevant to specialty crops; expanding availability and access to specialty crops; and addressing local, regional, and national challenges confronting specialty crop producers. Specialty crops are defined by the USDA as “fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits, horticulture, and nursery crops, including floriculture.”Due to COVID-19 impacts on the food system, Congress authorized one-time additional funding for the Specialty Crop Block Grant H.R. 133 Stimulus Program outside of the traditional Farm Bill funding under the 2021 Consolidated Appropriations Act. Kansas is expected to receive approximately $450,000 in H.R. 133 Stimulus funding for the 2021 grant cycle.Applications will be evaluated by a team of external reviewers. The team will rate proposals on their ability to successfully promote specialty crops in Kansas and make a positive impact on the Kansas economy. Those recommendations will be submitted to the Kansas Secretary of Agriculture, who will make the final awards.Applications are due to KDA no later than 5:00 p.m. CST on November 24, 2021. For more information, please download the 2021 KDA Request for Applications from:&nbsp;<a href="https://lnks.gd/l/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJidWxsZXRpbl9saW5rX2lkIjoxMDAsInVyaSI6ImJwMjpjbGljayIsImJ1bGxldGluX2lkIjoiMjAyMTEwMDcuNDcwMzA4MTEiLCJ1cmwiOiJodHRwczovL2FncmljdWx0dXJlLmtzLmdvdi9zcGVjaWFsdHljcm9wP3V0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX3NvdXJjZT1nb3ZkZWxpdmVyeSJ9.mRIBPLsHrCoc1M5vHd5Baqex7nb85Dbh0Fa7_Nbt83g/s/1377890594/br/113551709257-l" target="_blank">agriculture.ks.gov/specialtycrop</a>.The vision of the Kansas Department of Agriculture is to provide an ideal environment for long-term, sustainable agricultural prosperity and statewide economic growth. To achieve this vision, the agency advocates for sectors at all levels and provides industry outreach.

New stimulus grant opportunity for specialty crops announced by KDA 

Though we often think of soil testing as a spring chore, fall can be a better time.

Soil-testing laboratories are often very busy during the spring resulting in a longer turnaround from submission to recommendations. Also, soils in the spring are often waterlogged, making taking samples difficult.

If your soil test suggests more organic matter, fall is a much better season because materials are more available than in the spring (tree leaves), and fresher materials can be used without harming young tender spring-planted plants.

​Begin by taking a representative sample from at least six locations in the garden or lawn. Each sample should contain soil from the surface to about 6 to 8 inches deep.

This is most easily done with a soil sampler. Many K-State Research and Extension offices have such samplers available for checkout. If you don’t have a sampler, use a shovel to dig straight down into the soil. Then shave a small layer off the back of the hole for your sample. Mix the samples together in a clean plastic container and select about 1 to 1.5 cups of soil. This can be placed in a plastic container such as a resealable plastic bag.

Take the soil to your county extension office to have tests done for a small charge at the K-State soil-testing laboratory. A soil test determines fertility problems, not other conditions that may exist such as poor drainage, poor soil structure, soil-borne diseases or insects, chemical contaminants or damage, or shade with root competition from other plants. All these conditions may reduce plant performance but cannot be evaluated by a soil test. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/10/1634147981287.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. " />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. </figcaption>
 </figure>Though we often think of soil testing as a spring chore, fall can be a better time.Soil-testing laboratories are often very busy during the spring resulting in a longer turnaround from submission to recommendations. Also, soils in the spring are often waterlogged, making taking samples difficult.If your soil test suggests more organic matter, fall is a much better season because materials are more available than in the spring (tree leaves), and fresher materials can be used without harming young tender spring-planted plants.​Begin by taking a representative sample from at least six locations in the garden or lawn. Each sample should contain soil from the surface to about 6 to 8 inches deep.This is most easily done with a soil sampler. Many K-State Research and Extension offices have such samplers available for checkout. If you don’t have a sampler, use a shovel to dig straight down into the soil. Then shave a small layer off the back of the hole for your sample. Mix the samples together in a clean plastic container and select about 1 to 1.5 cups of soil. This can be placed in a plastic container such as a resealable plastic bag.Take the soil to your county extension office to have tests done for a small charge at the K-State soil-testing laboratory. A soil test determines fertility problems, not other conditions that may exist such as poor drainage, poor soil structure, soil-borne diseases or insects, chemical contaminants or damage, or shade with root competition from other plants. All these conditions may reduce plant performance but cannot be evaluated by a soil test. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

WALZ: ​Fall is a Good Time for Soil Testing 

Sometimes you will hear people say to let the grass grow tall right before winter sets in. Their reasoning is that the extra foliage will insulate the crown of the plant from the extreme cold of winter. Although this may sound reasonable, in practice it probably does little, if anything, to increase winter hardiness. On the contrary, a canopy that is too high during the winter may lay over and become matted down, leading to an increased incidence of winter diseases such as snow mold. Turfgrass species vary genetically in their cold tolerance, with warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and buffalograss being less cold tolerant than the cool-season types such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Given these differences, cold tolerance is improved by increasing the health of the plants going into the winter, and healthy plants are a result of a sound management program (fertilizing, watering, and mowing) during the spring, summer and fall.The lawn will benefit more from continuing to mow at the recommended height than from trying to gain some insulation against winter cold by allowing it to grow tall. Here is a list of the recommended mowing height ranges (in inches) for home lawns in Kansas:&nbsp; • Tall fescue: 2.5 -3.5&nbsp; &nbsp; • Kentucky bluegrass: 2-3&nbsp; &nbsp; • Buffalograss: 2-3&nbsp; &nbsp; • Bermudagrass: 1-2&nbsp; &nbsp; • Zoysiagrass: 1-2

(Note: Mowing at heights below 1.5 inches requires a reel mower).​There may be some benefits gained by adjusting mowing heights WITHIN the recommended range at times. For example, it is a good practice to mow warm-season grasses at the higher end of recommended heights during late summer and early fall because this practice should help them store more carbohydrate reserves for the winter, and it may reduce the incidence of certain cool-weather diseases. But the rule to remember is to stay within the recommended height range for your species. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Sometimes you will hear people say to let the grass grow tall right before winter sets in. Their reasoning is that the extra foliage will insulate the crown of the plant from the extreme cold of winter. Although this may sound reasonable, in practice it probably does little, if anything, to increase winter hardiness. On the contrary, a canopy that is too high during the winter may lay over and become matted down, leading to an increased incidence of winter diseases such as snow mold. Turfgrass species vary genetically in their cold tolerance, with warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and buffalograss being less cold tolerant than the cool-season types such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Given these differences, cold tolerance is improved by increasing the health of the plants going into the winter, and healthy plants are a result of a sound management program (fertilizing, watering, and mowing) during the spring, summer and fall.The lawn will benefit more from continuing to mow at the recommended height than from trying to gain some insulation against winter cold by allowing it to grow tall. Here is a list of the recommended mowing height ranges (in inches) for home lawns in Kansas:&nbsp; • Tall fescue: 2.5 -3.5&nbsp; &nbsp; • Kentucky bluegrass: 2-3&nbsp; &nbsp; • Buffalograss: 2-3&nbsp; &nbsp; • Bermudagrass: 1-2&nbsp; &nbsp; • Zoysiagrass: 1-2(Note: Mowing at heights below 1.5 inches requires a reel mower).​There may be some benefits gained by adjusting mowing heights WITHIN the recommended range at times. For example, it is a good practice to mow warm-season grasses at the higher end of recommended heights during late summer and early fall because this practice should help them store more carbohydrate reserves for the winter, and it may reduce the incidence of certain cool-weather diseases. But the rule to remember is to stay within the recommended height range for your species. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

WALZ: Should you let your turf grow tall in the fall?

Popular program will offer sessions on backyard birds, winter landscapes&nbsp;

MANHATTAN – Organizers of a popular, lunch-hour gardening program say they are gearing up to offer more sessions even as the days turn a bit colder.&nbsp;

The K-State Garden Hour wraps up its fall series in late September, but officials have announced two sessions that will be held the first Wednesday in October and November.&nbsp;

A&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour-register">one-time registration fee</a>&nbsp;gives viewers free access to both sessions, which include:&nbsp;

More information on both sessions and recordings of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour">past webinars are available online</a>.&nbsp;

The K-State Garden Hour debuted online during the COVID-19 pandemic to accommodate gardeners staying at home more often, as well as those who were looking for an outdoor hobby.&nbsp;

Matthew McKernan, a K-State Research and Extension horticulture agent in Sedgwick County, said nearly 10,000 participants attended at least one session through the first half of 2021. Though statistics aren’t yet available for the fall series, the interest in the program among Kansans seems to have continued the past several weeks.&nbsp;

“Even though people often garden less during the winter months, there are still many things everyone can do to create landscape interest and support garden wildlife in the winter months,” McKernan said. “That’s really what our winter series of the K-State Garden Hour will focus on – getting the most out of your garden even in the winter months”.&nbsp;

In addition to information online, interested persons can also&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">contact their local K-State Research and Extension office</a>&nbsp;for more details on the K-State Garden Hour.&nbsp;

<h2>Popular program will offer sessions on backyard birds, winter landscapes&nbsp;</h2>K-State News &amp; ExtensionMANHATTAN – Organizers of a popular, lunch-hour gardening program say they are gearing up to offer more sessions even as the days turn a bit colder.&nbsp;The K-State Garden Hour wraps up its fall series in late September, but officials have announced two sessions that will be held the first Wednesday in October and November.&nbsp;A&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour-register">one-time registration fee</a>&nbsp;gives viewers free access to both sessions, which include:&nbsp; <ul>
 <li>Oct. 6 – Embrace your landscape’s wild side: Supporting backyard birds.&nbsp;</li><li>Nov. 3 – Winter interest in the landscape.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>More information on both sessions and recordings of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour">past webinars are available online</a>.&nbsp;The K-State Garden Hour debuted online during the COVID-19 pandemic to accommodate gardeners staying at home more often, as well as those who were looking for an outdoor hobby.&nbsp;Matthew McKernan, a K-State Research and Extension horticulture agent in Sedgwick County, said nearly 10,000 participants attended at least one session through the first half of 2021. Though statistics aren’t yet available for the fall series, the interest in the program among Kansans seems to have continued the past several weeks.&nbsp;“Even though people often garden less during the winter months, there are still many things everyone can do to create landscape interest and support garden wildlife in the winter months,” McKernan said. “That’s really what our winter series of the K-State Garden Hour will focus on – getting the most out of your garden even in the winter months”.&nbsp;In addition to information online, interested persons can also&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">contact their local K-State Research and Extension office</a>&nbsp;for more details on the K-State Garden Hour.&nbsp;

K-State Garden Hour preps for winter series 

Late September through October is an excellent time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as crocus, tulips, and daffodils. These plants need to develop roots in the fall and must meet a chilling requirement over the winter to bloom in the spring. Choose a planting site that has full sun to partial shade. The ideal soil would be a sandy loam, but even poor soils can be used if organic material such as peat moss, compost, or aged bark is mixed in. For example, heavy clay can be amended by mixing in one-third to one-half organic material. Soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. Bulbs need good aeration as well as good drainage for proper development. It is best if the bulbs are given 12 inches of prepared soil. If one-third of organic material were added, this would require mixing 4 inches of organic material with 8 inches of soil. Incorporate about 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as a 5-10-5 per 100 square feet during preparation or fertilize according to soil test. Planting depths vary depending on the size of the bulbs. For example, tulips and hyacinths are set about 6 inches deep, and daffodils are put 6 to 8 inches deep. Smaller bulbs are planted shallower. As a rule of thumb, bulbs are planted two to three times as deep as their width. Planting depth is the distance from the bottom of the bulb to the top of the soil. Large bulbs are normally spaced 4 to 6 inches apart, and small bulbs are about 1 to 2 inches. Planting in clumps or irregular masses produces a better display than planting singly. After placing the bulbs at the proper depth, replace half the soil and add water. This will settle the soil around the bulbs and provide good bulb/soil contact. Add the remaining soil and water again. Although there will be no top growth in the fall, the roots are developing, so the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy. Mulch can be added after the soil has frozen to prevent small bulbs from being heaved out of the soil by alternate freezing and thawing. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Late September through October is an excellent time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as crocus, tulips, and daffodils. These plants need to develop roots in the fall and must meet a chilling requirement over the winter to bloom in the spring. Choose a planting site that has full sun to partial shade. The ideal soil would be a sandy loam, but even poor soils can be used if organic material such as peat moss, compost, or aged bark is mixed in. For example, heavy clay can be amended by mixing in one-third to one-half organic material. Soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. Bulbs need good aeration as well as good drainage for proper development. It is best if the bulbs are given 12 inches of prepared soil. If one-third of organic material were added, this would require mixing 4 inches of organic material with 8 inches of soil. Incorporate about 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as a 5-10-5 per 100 square feet during preparation or fertilize according to soil test. Planting depths vary depending on the size of the bulbs. For example, tulips and hyacinths are set about 6 inches deep, and daffodils are put 6 to 8 inches deep. Smaller bulbs are planted shallower. As a rule of thumb, bulbs are planted two to three times as deep as their width. Planting depth is the distance from the bottom of the bulb to the top of the soil. Large bulbs are normally spaced 4 to 6 inches apart, and small bulbs are about 1 to 2 inches. Planting in clumps or irregular masses produces a better display than planting singly. After placing the bulbs at the proper depth, replace half the soil and add water. This will settle the soil around the bulbs and provide good bulb/soil contact. Add the remaining soil and water again. Although there will be no top growth in the fall, the roots are developing, so the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy. Mulch can be added after the soil has frozen to prevent small bulbs from being heaved out of the soil by alternate freezing and thawing. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

FICK: Time to plant spring-flowering bulbs approaching

Cool- and warm-season grasses need year-round care&nbsp;

By EMILY HALSTEAD K-State Research and Extension news writer

MANHATTAN — Keeping a healthy home lawn can be difficult for those who are not well versed in horticulture and lawn care. Kansas State University horticulture specialist Ward Upham shared his tips for maintaining a healthy lawn in Kansas.&nbsp;

“We live in a transition zone where we are too warm to grow cool-season grasses well, while also being too cold to grow warm season grasses well,” Upham said.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Some examples are fescue and Kentucky bluegrass which are cool-season grasses; and bermudagrass, zoysia and buffalo grass, which are warm-season grasses.&nbsp;&nbsp;

While buffalograss may not always grow well in Kansas, it is one of the most popular turfgrass species in the state, along with tall fescue Upham said.&nbsp;

“Buffalograss has become more popular in recent years due to its reputation as a low maintenance grass,” Upham said.&nbsp;

Upham gave some tips and things to look out for in home lawns in fall, winter, spring and next summer.&nbsp;&nbsp;

“Summertime is very difficult for cool-season grasses because they do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that warm season grasses have,” Upham said.&nbsp;&nbsp;

He added that lawn care in Kansas can be tricky, but K-State Research and Extension has many&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/publications/lawns-and-turf.html">helpful publications</a>, and&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">experts</a>&nbsp;to answer questions.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <iframe width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VNDNTaP49_o"></iframe>
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Cool- and warm-season grasses need year-round care&nbsp;</h2>By EMILY HALSTEAD K-State Research and Extension news writerMANHATTAN — Keeping a healthy home lawn can be difficult for those who are not well versed in horticulture and lawn care. Kansas State University horticulture specialist Ward Upham shared his tips for maintaining a healthy lawn in Kansas.&nbsp;“We live in a transition zone where we are too warm to grow cool-season grasses well, while also being too cold to grow warm season grasses well,” Upham said.&nbsp;&nbsp;Some examples are fescue and Kentucky bluegrass which are cool-season grasses; and bermudagrass, zoysia and buffalo grass, which are warm-season grasses.&nbsp;&nbsp;While buffalograss may not always grow well in Kansas, it is one of the most popular turfgrass species in the state, along with tall fescue Upham said.&nbsp;“Buffalograss has become more popular in recent years due to its reputation as a low maintenance grass,” Upham said.&nbsp;Upham gave some tips and things to look out for in home lawns in fall, winter, spring and next summer.&nbsp;&nbsp;Fall&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>Get ready to fertilize in September and early November for cool-season grasses.&nbsp;</li><li>If broadleaf weeds are an issue, spray for them in late October. Treat on a day that is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit and do not irrigate within 24 hours.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>Winter&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>Winter is the time for dormant overseeding, if there is a need to fill in bare spots that were not overseeded in the fall.&nbsp;</li><li>Dormant overseeding can be effective for cool-season grasses when done in small areas of a lawn from December through February.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>Spring&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>Crabgrass preventer can be applied between April 1 and April 15. If using a product that contains prodiamine, the preventer should be applied two weeks earlier.&nbsp;</li><li>For crabgrass preventers to work, they must be watered in, meaning the product must be washed into the soil either by rain or watering.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li><li>If broadleaf weeds are still an issue in the spring, spot treatment can be helpful.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>Summer&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>June is a good time to aerate warm-season lawns.&nbsp;</li><li>Late July through August is the best time to apply a grub killer if experiencing grub damage.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>“Summertime is very difficult for cool-season grasses because they do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that warm season grasses have,” Upham said.&nbsp;&nbsp;He added that lawn care in Kansas can be tricky, but K-State Research and Extension has many&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/publications/lawns-and-turf.html">helpful publications</a>, and&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">experts</a>&nbsp;to answer questions.&nbsp;

🎥 Lawn Calendar: K-State expert shares tips for healthy home lawns 

Many young, smooth, thin-barked trees such as honeylocusts, fruit trees, ashes, oaks, maples, lindens, and willows are susceptible to sunscald and bark cracks. 

Sunscald normally develops on the south or southwest side of the tree during late winter. Sunny, warm winter days may heat the bark to relatively high temperatures. Research done in Georgia has shown that the southwest side of the trunk of a peach tree can be 40 degrees warmer than shaded bark. This warming action can cause a loss of cold hardiness of the bark tissue resulting in cells becoming active. These cells then become susceptible to lethal freezing when the temperature drops at night. The damaged bark tissue becomes sunken and discolored in late spring. &nbsp;Damaged bark will eventually crack and slough off. &nbsp;

Trees often recover but need special care — especially watering during dry weather.​If you have seen this type of damage in previous years or fear you have susceptible trees, preventative measures are called for. &nbsp;Applying a light-colored tree wrap from the ground to the start of the first branches can protect young and/or recently planted trees. This should be done in October to November and removed the following March. Failure to remove the tree wrap in the spring can prove detrimental to the tree. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Many young, smooth, thin-barked trees such as honeylocusts, fruit trees, ashes, oaks, maples, lindens, and willows are susceptible to sunscald and bark cracks. Sunscald normally develops on the south or southwest side of the tree during late winter. Sunny, warm winter days may heat the bark to relatively high temperatures. Research done in Georgia has shown that the southwest side of the trunk of a peach tree can be 40 degrees warmer than shaded bark. This warming action can cause a loss of cold hardiness of the bark tissue resulting in cells becoming active. These cells then become susceptible to lethal freezing when the temperature drops at night. The damaged bark tissue becomes sunken and discolored in late spring. &nbsp;Damaged bark will eventually crack and slough off. &nbsp;Trees often recover but need special care — especially watering during dry weather.​If you have seen this type of damage in previous years or fear you have susceptible trees, preventative measures are called for. &nbsp;Applying a light-colored tree wrap from the ground to the start of the first branches can protect young and/or recently planted trees. This should be done in October to November and removed the following March. Failure to remove the tree wrap in the spring can prove detrimental to the tree. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Preventing sunscald on thin-barked trees

Matthew Charles “Matt” Schillig Jr., of Stratton, CO, passed away August
 26, 2021 at the age of 68. He was born April 2, 1953 in Iowa City, IA 
to Matthew Charles, Sr. and Betty Ruth (Pokorny) Schillig. 
 Matt grew up in Iowa City, IA area and graduated from high school in
 1971. He married Cynthia Marie Grieser on June 14, 1978 in Anamosa, IA.
 He retired from the Kansas Department of Transportation after 30+ 
years. In his spare time he enjoyed fishing. Matt had a passion for 
horticulture, cultivation, and gardening. 
 Matt was preceded in death by his parents; wife, Cynthia and sister,
 Rebecca “Beck” Schillig. He is survived by his sons, Aden (Sara) 
Schillig of Texas City, TX and Steven (Stacy) Schillig of Stratton, CO; 
four grandchildren, and siblings: Betty (Bill) Halleran of Riverside, 
IA, Barb (Gary) Carlson of Anamosa, IA, Karen (Bruce) Barnekow of Mason 
City, IA, Shirley (Greg) Harland of Kalona, IA, John (Tracy) Schillig of
 Easton, KS, and Kristine (Juan) Sandiford of Nassau Bahamas.

Click <a href="https://www.paulsfh.com/obituaries/Matt?obId=22222679#/celebrationWall">HERE</a> for service details.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/9/1630675734952.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Matthew Charles “Matt” Schillig Jr., of Stratton, CO, passed away August
 26, 2021 at the age of 68. He was born April 2, 1953 in Iowa City, IA 
to Matthew Charles, Sr. and Betty Ruth (Pokorny) Schillig. 
 Matt grew up in Iowa City, IA area and graduated from high school in
 1971. He married Cynthia Marie Grieser on June 14, 1978 in Anamosa, IA.
 He retired from the Kansas Department of Transportation after 30+ 
years. In his spare time he enjoyed fishing. Matt had a passion for 
horticulture, cultivation, and gardening. 
 Matt was preceded in death by his parents; wife, Cynthia and sister,
 Rebecca “Beck” Schillig. He is survived by his sons, Aden (Sara) 
Schillig of Texas City, TX and Steven (Stacy) Schillig of Stratton, CO; 
four grandchildren, and siblings: Betty (Bill) Halleran of Riverside, 
IA, Barb (Gary) Carlson of Anamosa, IA, Karen (Bruce) Barnekow of Mason 
City, IA, Shirley (Greg) Harland of Kalona, IA, John (Tracy) Schillig of
 Easton, KS, and Kristine (Juan) Sandiford of Nassau Bahamas.Click <a href="https://www.paulsfh.com/obituaries/Matt?obId=22222679#/celebrationWall">HERE</a> for service details.

Matthew Charles 'Matt' Schillig Jr.

Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings. Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seeds from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch. Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. &nbsp; For small spots, a hand rake can be used to roughen up the soil before the seed is applied. A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go in two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. Another option is to use a core aerator. The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil. Of the three methods, I prefer the slit seeder for obtaining good seed/soil contact. &nbsp;However, if watering is difficult, core aeration may be a better option. &nbsp;Regardless of the method used, fertilizer should be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings. Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seeds from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch. Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. &nbsp; For small spots, a hand rake can be used to roughen up the soil before the seed is applied. A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go in two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. Another option is to use a core aerator. The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil. Of the three methods, I prefer the slit seeder for obtaining good seed/soil contact. &nbsp;However, if watering is difficult, core aeration may be a better option. &nbsp;Regardless of the method used, fertilizer should be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Overseeding a lawn

We are seeing numerous reports of fall armyworms especially in the southeast and south-central Kansas. &nbsp;Though we have had fall armyworm outbreaks in the past, this is earlier than usual.

Armyworms are so-called because they invade fields or landscapes as large groups and can cause a lawn to turn brown seemingly overnight. Young worms are ½ to 3/4 inch long. Mature ones are 1 ½ inch long. Body-color may vary from green to almost black but light stripes will be visible along the length of the body. Look for a whitish inverted "Y" on the top of the black head. It normally takes 2 to 3 weeks to progress from egg to pupa. The adult is a moth. Armyworm damage can resemble drought damage but close inspection of the turf will reveal the larvae. Look for active feeding during early morning or evening hours or on cloudy days. Larvae feed on foliage and the resulting dehydration causes to turf to quickly brown. Normally, armyworm damage does not kill established turf but may if populations are high enough. Thick infestations of fall armyworms can damage turfgrass crowns which will kill turf. Acephate (Orthene, Acephate), spinosad (Conserve; Natural Guard Spinosad, Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew; Monterey Garden Insect Spray), and other insecticides are effective caterpillar killers. Treat in the late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. Do not mow for 3 days after treatment. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/8/1629725136273.png" alt="Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>We are seeing numerous reports of fall armyworms especially in the southeast and south-central Kansas. &nbsp;Though we have had fall armyworm outbreaks in the past, this is earlier than usual.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Armyworms are so-called because they invade fields or landscapes as large groups and can cause a lawn to turn brown seemingly overnight. Young worms are ½ to 3/4 inch long. Mature ones are 1 ½ inch long. Body-color may vary from green to almost black but light stripes will be visible along the length of the body. Look for a whitish inverted "Y" on the top of the black head. It normally takes 2 to 3 weeks to progress from egg to pupa. The adult is a moth. Armyworm damage can resemble drought damage but close inspection of the turf will reveal the larvae. Look for active feeding during early morning or evening hours or on cloudy days. Larvae feed on foliage and the resulting dehydration causes to turf to quickly brown. Normally, armyworm damage does not kill established turf but may if populations are high enough. Thick infestations of fall armyworms can damage turfgrass crowns which will kill turf. Acephate (Orthene, Acephate), spinosad (Conserve; Natural Guard Spinosad, Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew; Monterey Garden Insect Spray), and other insecticides are effective caterpillar killers. Treat in the late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. Do not mow for 3 days after treatment. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Fall armyworms on turf

Many gardeners make compost without understanding how to use it around the home. Composthas a number of horticultural applications, which are described below. Fertilization and soil improvement. Organic materials can be added to improve soil looseness and workability. Heavy, tight clay soils benefit from the loosening effects of composted organic materials. In sandy soils, organic material acts as a sponge to hold water and nutrients.Compost contains nutrients plants require. The amount of specific nutrients depends on the types of materials composted and how much water the pile contains. The suggested application rate is 50 to 100 pounds per 100 square feet, which is about ¼ inch of material spread over the entire garden. The best time to apply compost is just before tillage in either the spring or fall to incorporate the compost throughout the root zone. In Kansas, garden soils are often tilled in the fall. Compost made early in the season should be ready by then, or use last year’s compost if you have a two-pile system. Compost at planting. Apply a band of compost in the bottom of a row trench or add several shovels full to the bottom of planting holes. Tomato plants, perennial flowers, trees, and shrubs benefit from the slow release of nutrients through the early growth period. Compost can be applied as a top dressing for seeded vegetables and flowers to prevent soil crusting. It can be used as a substitute for soluble fertilizer or starter solution when mixed in equal parts with water.Leftover compost can be added to garden soil later. Potting mix for seedlings. Compost that has been screened for large particles can be mixed with soil or sand in approximately equal parts, and then used as a growing medium. To ensure healthy seedlings, compost should be well deteriorated and free of harmful disease organisms and insects. Using compost on a lawn. The best way to use compost is to apply it liberally before planting. Fertilize by adding a thin layer of top dressing every year.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Many gardeners make compost without understanding how to use it around the home. Composthas a number of horticultural applications, which are described below. Fertilization and soil improvement. Organic materials can be added to improve soil looseness and workability. Heavy, tight clay soils benefit from the loosening effects of composted organic materials. In sandy soils, organic material acts as a sponge to hold water and nutrients.Compost contains nutrients plants require. The amount of specific nutrients depends on the types of materials composted and how much water the pile contains. The suggested application rate is 50 to 100 pounds per 100 square feet, which is about ¼ inch of material spread over the entire garden. The best time to apply compost is just before tillage in either the spring or fall to incorporate the compost throughout the root zone. In Kansas, garden soils are often tilled in the fall. Compost made early in the season should be ready by then, or use last year’s compost if you have a two-pile system. Compost at planting. Apply a band of compost in the bottom of a row trench or add several shovels full to the bottom of planting holes. Tomato plants, perennial flowers, trees, and shrubs benefit from the slow release of nutrients through the early growth period. Compost can be applied as a top dressing for seeded vegetables and flowers to prevent soil crusting. It can be used as a substitute for soluble fertilizer or starter solution when mixed in equal parts with water.Leftover compost can be added to garden soil later. Potting mix for seedlings. Compost that has been screened for large particles can be mixed with soil or sand in approximately equal parts, and then used as a growing medium. To ensure healthy seedlings, compost should be well deteriorated and free of harmful disease organisms and insects. Using compost on a lawn. The best way to use compost is to apply it liberally before planting. Fertilize by adding a thin layer of top dressing every year.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Using compost

Peonies are a favorite perennial of gardeners because of their beauty and low maintenance. In Kansas, peonies provide a beautiful display of flowers each spring before Memorial Day. Though peonies can be left in place indefinitely, many gardeners wish to increase their plantings and use a process known as division to accomplish this. Keep in mind, however, that peonies often take about three years to return to full bloom and size after division. Fall is the traditional time to divide these plants. Peonies are essentially dormant by mid-August even though the foliage is still green. The first step in division is to remove the foliage. Then dig out the entire plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as possible so that the pink buds or "eyes" are visible. Peony roots are tough, and a sharp knife is needed to cut the roots into separate pieces. Make sure each division has three to four buds. Make sure the location chosen for planting receives at least a half-day of full sun. However, the more sun, the better. Space the plants so that there is at least 2 feet between dwarf types and 4 feet between the standard types. Follow the same rules for planting these divisions as you do for new plants. Make sure the pink buds are about 1 inch below the soil surface. If they are set more than 2 inches deep, flowering may be delayed or completely prevented. As you set the plants, firm soil often as it is added around the plant. If the soil is not firmed, it can settle and pull the plant down with it. Water in well after planting and water as necessary through the fall and winter to keep the soil moist. &nbsp; It is often a good idea to add mulch to the new planting to protect it from heaving. The alternate freezing and thawing that commonly occurs during Kansas winters can "heave" weakly rooted plants out of the ground. Add a mulch of straw, leaves, compost or other material after the soil freezes. Remember, it is not the cold that harms these plants but the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Peonies are a favorite perennial of gardeners because of their beauty and low maintenance. In Kansas, peonies provide a beautiful display of flowers each spring before Memorial Day. Though peonies can be left in place indefinitely, many gardeners wish to increase their plantings and use a process known as division to accomplish this. Keep in mind, however, that peonies often take about three years to return to full bloom and size after division. Fall is the traditional time to divide these plants. Peonies are essentially dormant by mid-August even though the foliage is still green. The first step in division is to remove the foliage. Then dig out the entire plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as possible so that the pink buds or "eyes" are visible. Peony roots are tough, and a sharp knife is needed to cut the roots into separate pieces. Make sure each division has three to four buds. Make sure the location chosen for planting receives at least a half-day of full sun. However, the more sun, the better. Space the plants so that there is at least 2 feet between dwarf types and 4 feet between the standard types. Follow the same rules for planting these divisions as you do for new plants. Make sure the pink buds are about 1 inch below the soil surface. If they are set more than 2 inches deep, flowering may be delayed or completely prevented. As you set the plants, firm soil often as it is added around the plant. If the soil is not firmed, it can settle and pull the plant down with it. Water in well after planting and water as necessary through the fall and winter to keep the soil moist. &nbsp; It is often a good idea to add mulch to the new planting to protect it from heaving. The alternate freezing and thawing that commonly occurs during Kansas winters can "heave" weakly rooted plants out of the ground. Add a mulch of straw, leaves, compost or other material after the soil freezes. Remember, it is not the cold that harms these plants but the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

FICK: Dividing peonies

If there are areas of the garden that are done producing, chop and shred residue in preparation for tilling. If soils are wet, wait a few days so the soil is no longer muddy. Tilling in residue allows plant material to decompose and helps reduce insect and disease problems for the next year. Also, consider using a cover crop to hold the soil and increase the organic matter content of the soil. Small grains such as wheat should be seeded at 3/4 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet from mid-September to late October. &nbsp;Spring oats can also be seeded until mid-September but the rate should be 2 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. &nbsp;Spring oats will winter kill and can be tilled under in the spring. &nbsp;Legume cover crops such as hairy vetch, alfalfa, and sweet clover provide an additional benefit by "fixing" nitrogen, thereby increasing the fertility of the soil. Each of these should be seeded at about 1/4 to ½ pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet of garden. Sweetclover should be seeded from August to early September and hairy vetch and alfalfa from mid-August to late September. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>If there are areas of the garden that are done producing, chop and shred residue in preparation for tilling. If soils are wet, wait a few days so the soil is no longer muddy. Tilling in residue allows plant material to decompose and helps reduce insect and disease problems for the next year. Also, consider using a cover crop to hold the soil and increase the organic matter content of the soil. Small grains such as wheat should be seeded at 3/4 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet from mid-September to late October. &nbsp;Spring oats can also be seeded until mid-September but the rate should be 2 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. &nbsp;Spring oats will winter kill and can be tilled under in the spring. &nbsp;Legume cover crops such as hairy vetch, alfalfa, and sweet clover provide an additional benefit by "fixing" nitrogen, thereby increasing the fertility of the soil. Each of these should be seeded at about 1/4 to ½ pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet of garden. Sweetclover should be seeded from August to early September and hairy vetch and alfalfa from mid-August to late September. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Preparing the vegetable garden for next year

Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care. Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils, they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to drill a 1/8" hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. The hole should be near the bottom of the bucket. &nbsp;Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once after moving it to the opposite side of the tree. &nbsp;After this bucket empties, you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water. A perforated soaker hose or drip irrigation can be used to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot &nbsp;diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out. Regardless of the method used, the soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post, or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care. Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils, they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to drill a 1/8" hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. The hole should be near the bottom of the bucket. &nbsp;Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once after moving it to the opposite side of the tree. &nbsp;After this bucket empties, you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water. A perforated soaker hose or drip irrigation can be used to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot &nbsp;diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out. Regardless of the method used, the soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post, or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Watering newly planted trees and shrubs

TOPEKA&nbsp;– Gov. Laura Kelly this week announced that 26 Kansas nonprofit organizations will receive more than $4 million in Community Service Tax Credits to improve and enhance fundraising efforts for education, health care, child care and housing projects.

“The Community Service Tax Credit program is an excellent tool we can use to support our state’s nonprofits and strengthen the essential services they provide to their communities,”&nbsp;Governor Kelly said.&nbsp;“My administration will continue pursuing innovative initiatives like CSP to improve Kansans’ access to quality education, health care, child care and housing to make Kansas the best state in the nation for families and businesses to call home.”

The CSP program provides a 70% tax credit to qualified donors in rural communities with a population less than 15,000 and a 50% tax credit in larger communities. For example, a donor making a $1,000 gift in a rural community receives a $700 tax credit when they file their state taxes, making the net cost to the donor only $300. CSP is distributing $1 million in awards for childcare and early childhood development projects, specifically for services to those under the age of 5.

CSP is a highly competitive program. Awarded nonprofits were chosen through a competitive, score-based selection process.

This year, 26 of the requested 55 projects (constituting 47% of the total funds requested) received CSP funding.

“When it comes to economic and community development, quality of life has to be a priority,”&nbsp;Lieutenant Governor and Commerce Secretary David Toland said. “Helping to ensure that people have the amenities they need in their communities is one of the best ways to maintain a growing, vibrant, stable economy with a motivated and driven workforce. Programs like CSP are a great way to help achieve this outcome for our state.”

CSP funding is being awarded to the following organizations:

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1626792062891.jpeg" alt="Solomon Valley Manor, Stockton (Courtesy photo)" />
 <figcaption>Solomon Valley Manor, Stockton (Courtesy photo)</figcaption>
 </figure>Office of GovernorTOPEKA&nbsp;– Gov. Laura Kelly this week announced that 26 Kansas nonprofit organizations will receive more than $4 million in Community Service Tax Credits to improve and enhance fundraising efforts for education, health care, child care and housing projects.“The Community Service Tax Credit program is an excellent tool we can use to support our state’s nonprofits and strengthen the essential services they provide to their communities,”&nbsp;Governor Kelly said.&nbsp;“My administration will continue pursuing innovative initiatives like CSP to improve Kansans’ access to quality education, health care, child care and housing to make Kansas the best state in the nation for families and businesses to call home.”The CSP program provides a 70% tax credit to qualified donors in rural communities with a population less than 15,000 and a 50% tax credit in larger communities. For example, a donor making a $1,000 gift in a rural community receives a $700 tax credit when they file their state taxes, making the net cost to the donor only $300. CSP is distributing $1 million in awards for childcare and early childhood development projects, specifically for services to those under the age of 5.CSP is a highly competitive program. Awarded nonprofits were chosen through a competitive, score-based selection process.This year, 26 of the requested 55 projects (constituting 47% of the total funds requested) received CSP funding.“When it comes to economic and community development, quality of life has to be a priority,”&nbsp;Lieutenant Governor and Commerce Secretary David Toland said. “Helping to ensure that people have the amenities they need in their communities is one of the best ways to maintain a growing, vibrant, stable economy with a motivated and driven workforce. Programs like CSP are a great way to help achieve this outcome for our state.”CSP funding is being awarded to the following organizations:<ul>
 <li>Atchison County: Atchison County Community Schools Education Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of an 8,400-sq-ft, multi-purpose facility to serve numerous needs present in their community.</li><li>Barton County: Golden Belt Community Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of a 4,100-sq-ft building that will house Advancing Barton County’s Childcare Development Center.</li><li>Butler County: Flinthills Services, Inc.&nbsp;– Renovations at a 4,800-sq-ft facility, including wall removal, new flooring, addition of handicap-accessible shower, specialized furniture, kitchen renovations, signage and outside fencing and gravel work.</li><li>Cowley County: William Newton Memorial Hospital&nbsp;– Purchase and installation of a new call system, offering improved communication and increased efficiency of patient care.</li><li>Douglas County: Elizabeth B Ballard Community Center, Inc.&nbsp;– Updating building-wide HVAC upgrades that will provide better ventilation, better air filtration and better clean air for the childcare and community center.</li><li>Finney County: High Plains Housing Development Corporation&nbsp;– Initial startup funding for the construction of 3D-concrete printed homes – a first in Kansas.</li><li>Geary County: Aging Well, Inc. – Construction of three small homes that will provide long-term care to a total of 36 elders (12 elders in each home), with a fourth small home planned to provide assisted living services to 14 elders.</li><li>Greeley County: Greeley County Health Services, Inc.&nbsp;– Funding for the&nbsp;G+Kids&nbsp;project, an initiative designed to meet the childcare needs of Greeley County Health Services employees and other local residents.</li><li>Harvey County: Kidron Bethel Retirement Services, Inc. – Construction of a new community space/chapel to solve overcrowding and program disruption at the current space.</li><li>Johnson County: Down Syndrome Guild of Greater Kansas City, Inc. –&nbsp;Establishment of an 11,000-sq-ft multi-functional building to house several components designed to equip people with Down Syndrome of all ages and their caregivers.</li><li>Johnson County: Friends of JCDS, Inc.&nbsp;– The purchase and renovations of two properties for affordable and accessible housing&nbsp;needs, serving adults with intellectual and developmental disabilities.</li><li>Labette County: Labette Health Foundation&nbsp;– Expansion of the Independence Healthcare Center, including a pharmacy, expanded laboratory, ultrasound, conference room, home health, a physical therapy department and an additional 19 exam/procedure rooms.</li><li>Lyon County: Emporia Arts Council&nbsp;– Construction of EAC’s Innovation Laboratory and updates to its classrooms and theater.</li><li>Lyon County: Hetlinger Developmental Services, Inc.&nbsp;– The construction of a new greenhouse with state-of-the-art automated systems, including irrigation, shading and ecofriendly operations, which will allow persons served to participate in horticultural therapy and gardening activities.</li><li>McPherson County: Sprout House Learning Center Inc.&nbsp;– Establishing a purpose-built childcare center to accommodate 67 children in the first phase, which will enable them to move their program out of several makeshift spaces into one attractive space with room to grow and develop the program.</li><li>Montgomery County: Caney Valley Agape Network, Inc.&nbsp;– A new sustainable facility to provide quality produce to more recipients and assist local neighbors in distress.</li><li>Norton County: Valley Hope Association&nbsp;– A new extended treatment program combined with sober housing will expand the existing treatment center capacity from 26 to 35.</li><li>Reno County: Cosmosphere, Inc.&nbsp;– Funding for&nbsp;iWonderSTEM&nbsp;Virtual Education Content, designed to provide 48 underserved schools with a chance to experience the Cosmosphere.</li><li>Rooks County: Solomon Valley Manor&nbsp;– Creating a new long-term care facility that will feature private rooms and private bathrooms/showers.</li><li>Saline County: CKF Addiction Treatment, Inc.&nbsp;– Expanding telehealth treatment services to hospitals across the state to reach additional clients, while continuing to provide services from their homes once they are released.</li><li>Saline County: Young Men's Christian Association of Salina&nbsp;– Adding outdoor pavilions with restrooms to allow expansion of services to their Early Education Center, as well as licensed after school and summer day camp programs for elementary age students.</li><li>Sedgwick County: Catholic Charities Wichita&nbsp;– A new 30,661-square-foot building to serve up to 200 adult participants with intellectual or developmental disabilities, as well as seniors with dementia or Alzheimer’s disease.</li><li>Sedgwick County: The League 42 Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of The Youth Education Center. The center will include 25 computer stations to be at the heart of the education programming provided by League 42.</li><li>Seward County: Kismet Public Library Foundation&nbsp;– Establishment of a community safe room for public use during severe weather events.</li><li>Shawnee County: Friends of the Topeka Zoo, Inc.&nbsp;– Building a new, modern 10,000-square-foot giraffe facility for the zoo’s giraffe herd.&nbsp;</li><li>Wyandotte County: Kansas City Kansas Community College Foundation&nbsp;– A new 114,387-square-foot Downtown Community Education Center to serve as an anchor institution for Kansas City, Kansas.</li>
 </ul>

Stockton, Norton facilities receive tax credits for expansion

Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate the planting and increase flowering. Iris may be divided from late July through August, but late July through early August is ideal.Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength. Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting. Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show high levels of phosphorus. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than the second (phosphorus). This Saturday, July 24, the Ellis County Master Gardeners will be at the Downtown Hays Market from 7:00 am- 1:00 pm selling iris rhizomes for $1 each. They will also be doing demonstrations on how to divide and plant the iris, as well as, answering any questions you may have.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate the planting and increase flowering. Iris may be divided from late July through August, but late July through early August is ideal.Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength. Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting. Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show high levels of phosphorus. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than the second (phosphorus). This Saturday, July 24, the Ellis County Master Gardeners will be at the Downtown Hays Market from 7:00 am- 1:00 pm selling iris rhizomes for $1 each. They will also be doing demonstrations on how to divide and plant the iris, as well as, answering any questions you may have. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Dividing irises

By CRISTINA JANNEY Hays Post

The county fair has been the highlight of 78-year-old Edna Hansen's summer since she was a little girl.&nbsp;

When she was 9, she baked the best muffins at the Trego County Fair, but she was too young to take them to the Kansas State Fair.

"I still don't understand if I could bake the best muffins at 9, why I couldn't go to the county fair," she said with a sharp rap of her fist on the table and a coy smile, "and I still don't understand."

Hansen is a member of the Ellis County Fair Board. She served two stints on the board since 2002 when she and her husband moved back to the area and settled in Ellis. She said she can't remember how many years in total she served, but it's been at least 10 years.&nbsp;

This year will be Hansen's last Ellis County Fair as a board member. She will be moving to Texas soon to be closer to her son.&nbsp;

Hansen participated in 4-H in Trego County when she was a girl. Her family lived a few miles inside the Trego County line. As a child, she brought baking and sewing projects to the fair.

She said her experiences as a child have kept her coming back as a volunteer despite the long hours and little sleep she gets during fair week.

"As a kid, the fair was an extremely important part of my summer," she said. "If as an adult we won't do the work, then the kids lose out on that opportunity because then there is no 4-H fair. There is no open fair if people don't step up.

"I think it is just as important to me as it was when I was young."

For youth 70-years-ago and today, the county fair is something 4-H'ers work for the entire year, Hansen said.&nbsp;

"It was the highlight of the summer," Hansen said, "going to the fair and displaying our projects."

Hansen became a registered nurse and later earned her master's degree in social work. She handled child abuse cases for social services. She also served for a time as director of the Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) of the High Plains, which covers Ellis County.

She said she continued to use her 4-H skill as an adult.

4-H teaches youth how to be part of a group, Roberts Rules of Order, how to work together and how to be independent and work on a project on your own, she said.

"[You learn] sometimes you win, and sometimes you lose and you do both graciously," she said.

Hansen was never a 4-H leader, but her son was involved in 4-H when their family lived in California. He showed rabbits and cooked.

Hansen, a master gardener, is a trained judge and still helps judge horticulture and floriculture. She also won a reserve champion ribbon this year in arts and crafts for a piece of ceramic artwork.

As she's aged, her fair focus has changed.

"As a kid, I can remember thinking, 'When I grow up, I am going to go to the fair every day and I'm staying all day long," she said. "Watch out what you wish for, you might get it."&nbsp;

She said she still loves watching the children as they check their projects for ribbons.&nbsp;

"Seeing how excited they are is still one of my favorite parts," she said.

In 70 years, 4-H has modernized. Kids and adults alike use a computer to submit their entries for the fair — something Hansen still struggles with.

However, she said the same core values embodied in the 4-H pledge are still important today.

My Head to clearing thinking, My Heart to greater loyalty, My Hands to larger service, My Health to better living, For my club, my community, my country and my world.

Her focus as a fair participant has changed since she was a child.

Hansen's focus as a fair board member is the indoor 4-H and open exhibits, some of which include photography, foods, horticulture, arts and crafts, and fine arts.

2020 was very challenging, but the fair went forward with COVID-19 precautions. Several indoor events were canceled. Social distancing and mask-wearing were encouraged.

"We held our breath and prayed a lot that we would not have an outbreak," she said.

Her prayers were answered. No COVID outbreaks were associated with the 2020 fair.

She said it is wonderful to see the community able to come back out and enjoy the fair.

"It is nice to see people out here," she said, "seeing their neighbors, seeing the kids play, seeing them comparing their notes."

Our society is more mobile and children have more opportunities for activities than when Hansen was a child, but she said she believes county fairs are still important aspects of the local communities.&nbsp;

Even for those children who are not 4-H'ers, the fair can provide learning opportunities.

"Even some kids in Hays don't understand where your meat really comes from," she said. "'Well, just go to the store.' Where do you think the store got it from?

"Some of them in Hays had still not seen a live pig or a sheep."

Hansen has had a difficult year personally, her husband died of cancer and her sister died of COVID-19.

Although Hansen is moving out of state, her fellow fair volunteers are already offering to put her up if she'll come back for a visit next summer for the fair.&nbsp;

She said she likely won't stay away from 4-H. She said she'll probably try to find a fair near her new home east of Dallas.

Hansen encouraged more adults to become involved in 4-H and the fair. Many of the fair judges are aging and retiring. New volunteers are needed to take their places, she said.

You can learn more about being a 4-H leader or volunteer by visiting the <a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/">Cottonwood Extension District web</a>page. 4-H offers training for new volunteers.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1626298294411.jpeg" alt="Longtime Ellis County Fair board member Edna Hansen with her reserve champion ceramics project. This is the last year Hansen will be on the board. She is moving to Texas to be near family." />
 <figcaption>Longtime Ellis County Fair board member Edna Hansen with her reserve champion ceramics project. This is the last year Hansen will be on the board. She is moving to Texas to be near family.</figcaption>
 </figure>By CRISTINA JANNEY Hays PostThe county fair has been the highlight of 78-year-old Edna Hansen's summer since she was a little girl.&nbsp;When she was 9, she baked the best muffins at the Trego County Fair, but she was too young to take them to the Kansas State Fair."I still don't understand if I could bake the best muffins at 9, why I couldn't go to the county fair," she said with a sharp rap of her fist on the table and a coy smile, "and I still don't understand."Hansen is a member of the Ellis County Fair Board. She served two stints on the board since 2002 when she and her husband moved back to the area and settled in Ellis. She said she can't remember how many years in total she served, but it's been at least 10 years.&nbsp;This year will be Hansen's last Ellis County Fair as a board member. She will be moving to Texas soon to be closer to her son.&nbsp;Hansen participated in 4-H in Trego County when she was a girl. Her family lived a few miles inside the Trego County line. As a child, she brought baking and sewing projects to the fair.She said her experiences as a child have kept her coming back as a volunteer despite the long hours and little sleep she gets during fair week."As a kid, the fair was an extremely important part of my summer," she said. "If as an adult we won't do the work, then the kids lose out on that opportunity because then there is no 4-H fair. There is no open fair if people don't step up."I think it is just as important to me as it was when I was young."For youth 70-years-ago and today, the county fair is something 4-H'ers work for the entire year, Hansen said.&nbsp;"It was the highlight of the summer," Hansen said, "going to the fair and displaying our projects."Hansen became a registered nurse and later earned her master's degree in social work. She handled child abuse cases for social services. She also served for a time as director of the Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) of the High Plains, which covers Ellis County.She said she continued to use her 4-H skill as an adult.4-H teaches youth how to be part of a group, Roberts Rules of Order, how to work together and how to be independent and work on a project on your own, she said."[You learn] sometimes you win, and sometimes you lose and you do both graciously," she said.Hansen was never a 4-H leader, but her son was involved in 4-H when their family lived in California. He showed rabbits and cooked.Hansen, a master gardener, is a trained judge and still helps judge horticulture and floriculture. She also won a reserve champion ribbon this year in arts and crafts for a piece of ceramic artwork.As she's aged, her fair focus has changed."As a kid, I can remember thinking, 'When I grow up, I am going to go to the fair every day and I'm staying all day long," she said. "Watch out what you wish for, you might get it."&nbsp;She said she still loves watching the children as they check their projects for ribbons.&nbsp;"Seeing how excited they are is still one of my favorite parts," she said.In 70 years, 4-H has modernized. Kids and adults alike use a computer to submit their entries for the fair — something Hansen still struggles with.However, she said the same core values embodied in the 4-H pledge are still important today.My Head to clearing thinking, My Heart to greater loyalty, My Hands to larger service, My Health to better living, For my club, my community, my country and my world.Her focus as a fair participant has changed since she was a child.Hansen's focus as a fair board member is the indoor 4-H and open exhibits, some of which include photography, foods, horticulture, arts and crafts, and fine arts.2020 was very challenging, but the fair went forward with COVID-19 precautions. Several indoor events were canceled. Social distancing and mask-wearing were encouraged."We held our breath and prayed a lot that we would not have an outbreak," she said.Her prayers were answered. No COVID outbreaks were associated with the 2020 fair.She said it is wonderful to see the community able to come back out and enjoy the fair."It is nice to see people out here," she said, "seeing their neighbors, seeing the kids play, seeing them comparing their notes."Our society is more mobile and children have more opportunities for activities than when Hansen was a child, but she said she believes county fairs are still important aspects of the local communities.&nbsp;Even for those children who are not 4-H'ers, the fair can provide learning opportunities."Even some kids in Hays don't understand where your meat really comes from," she said. "'Well, just go to the store.' Where do you think the store got it from?"Some of them in Hays had still not seen a live pig or a sheep."Hansen has had a difficult year personally, her husband died of cancer and her sister died of COVID-19.Although Hansen is moving out of state, her fellow fair volunteers are already offering to put her up if she'll come back for a visit next summer for the fair.&nbsp;She said she likely won't stay away from 4-H. She said she'll probably try to find a fair near her new home east of Dallas.Hansen encouraged more adults to become involved in 4-H and the fair. Many of the fair judges are aging and retiring. New volunteers are needed to take their places, she said.You can learn more about being a 4-H leader or volunteer by visiting the <a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/">Cottonwood Extension District web</a>page. 4-H offers training for new volunteers.