Pruning in August can stimulate new growth that is less hardy during the winter. But what about pruning at this time of year?

Woody plants move sugars and other materials from the leaves to storage places in the woody portions of the plant just prior to leaf fall and we would like to maximize those stored energy reserves. Even pruning later in the fall can cause a problem by reducing the cold hardiness of woody plants.

Dr. Rich Marini at Penn State Extension has written, “Based on everything that has been published we can conclude that woody plants do not attain maximum cold hardiness when they are pruned in the fall. Trees are affected more by heavy pruning than light pruning. 

"However, this does not mean that woody plants pruned in the fall will necessarily suffer winter damage. In most cases, I think we can get away with the adage of “prune whenever your pruners are sharp.” 

However, damage can occur if we have a sharp drop in temperature before plants are completely hardened off. &nbsp;Also, marginally hardy plants are more susceptible to winter damage, especially if pruned in the fall. &nbsp;Though light pruning and removal of dead wood are fine this time of year, you may want to delay severe pruning until spring.

Consider pruning to be “light” if 10 percent or less of the plant is removed. Deadwood does not count in this calculation.

Keep in mind that even light pruning of spring-blooming shrubs such as lilac and forsythia will reduce flowers for next year. We normally recommend that spring-bloomers be pruned after flowering.​

Shrubs differ in how severely they can be cut back. Junipers do not break buds from within the plant and therefore should be trimmed lightly if you wish to keep the full shape.

Overgrown junipers should be removed. On the other hand, there are certain shrubs that can be pruned back severely during the spring. Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes.

All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This works well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, sweet mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Just remember that spring is the correct time to do this, not now. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. " />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. </figcaption>
 </figure>Pruning in August can stimulate new growth that is less hardy during the winter. But what about pruning at this time of year?Woody plants move sugars and other materials from the leaves to storage places in the woody portions of the plant just prior to leaf fall and we would like to maximize those stored energy reserves. Even pruning later in the fall can cause a problem by reducing the cold hardiness of woody plants.Dr. Rich Marini at Penn State Extension has written, “Based on everything that has been published we can conclude that woody plants do not attain maximum cold hardiness when they are pruned in the fall. Trees are affected more by heavy pruning than light pruning. "However, this does not mean that woody plants pruned in the fall will necessarily suffer winter damage. In most cases, I think we can get away with the adage of “prune whenever your pruners are sharp.” However, damage can occur if we have a sharp drop in temperature before plants are completely hardened off. &nbsp;Also, marginally hardy plants are more susceptible to winter damage, especially if pruned in the fall. &nbsp;Though light pruning and removal of dead wood are fine this time of year, you may want to delay severe pruning until spring.Consider pruning to be “light” if 10 percent or less of the plant is removed. Deadwood does not count in this calculation.Keep in mind that even light pruning of spring-blooming shrubs such as lilac and forsythia will reduce flowers for next year. We normally recommend that spring-bloomers be pruned after flowering.​Shrubs differ in how severely they can be cut back. Junipers do not break buds from within the plant and therefore should be trimmed lightly if you wish to keep the full shape.Overgrown junipers should be removed. On the other hand, there are certain shrubs that can be pruned back severely during the spring. Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large with too many old branches to justify saving the younger canes.All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This works well for spirea, forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, sweet mock orange, shrub roses, and flowering quince. Just remember that spring is the correct time to do this, not now. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at lfick@k-state.edu or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

Walz: Pruning trees, shrubs in fall

Hoses and shallow irrigation lines may be damaged over the winter if water is not drained. If there is a main shut-off valve for the system, close it and then run through the zones to make sure any pressure has a chance to bleed off. Lawn irrigation systems usually have shallow lines. 

Though some lines may be self-draining, check to be sure there are no manual drains. If manual drains are present, they should be opened. Be sure to map them so they can be closed next spring before the system is pressurized. &nbsp;If there are no manual drains the system should be blown out with an air compressor. &nbsp;Lawn irrigation companies often offer this service. Drain hoses by stretching them out and coiling them for storage. Water will drain as you pull the hose toward you for coiling. Store in a protected place. UV light can make hoses brittle over time. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Hoses and shallow irrigation lines may be damaged over the winter if water is not drained. If there is a main shut-off valve for the system, close it and then run through the zones to make sure any pressure has a chance to bleed off. Lawn irrigation systems usually have shallow lines. Though some lines may be self-draining, check to be sure there are no manual drains. If manual drains are present, they should be opened. Be sure to map them so they can be closed next spring before the system is pressurized. &nbsp;If there are no manual drains the system should be blown out with an air compressor. &nbsp;Lawn irrigation companies often offer this service. Drain hoses by stretching them out and coiling them for storage. Water will drain as you pull the hose toward you for coiling. Store in a protected place. UV light can make hoses brittle over time. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

​WALZ: Draining hoses and irrigation lines

MANHATTAN — The Kansas Department of Agriculture is now accepting applications for the 2021 Specialty Crop Block Grant H.R. 133 Stimulus Program. This program is in addition to the traditional Specialty Crop Block Grant Program. Awards for that program will be announced later this fall.&nbsp;

Funds for both grant programs are awarded to the agency by the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Marketing Service. 

The funds are in turn granted to projects and organizations to enhance the competitiveness of specialty crops by leveraging efforts to market and promote specialty crops; assisting producers with research and development relevant to specialty crops; expanding availability and access to specialty crops; and addressing local, regional, and national challenges confronting specialty crop producers. 

Specialty crops are defined by the USDA as “fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits, horticulture, and nursery crops, including floriculture.”

Due to COVID-19 impacts on the food system, Congress authorized one-time additional funding for the Specialty Crop Block Grant H.R. 133 Stimulus Program outside of the traditional Farm Bill funding under the 2021 Consolidated Appropriations Act. Kansas is expected to receive approximately $450,000 in H.R. 133 Stimulus funding for the 2021 grant cycle.

Applications will be evaluated by a team of external reviewers. The team will rate proposals on their ability to successfully promote specialty crops in Kansas and make a positive impact on the Kansas economy. Those recommendations will be submitted to the Kansas Secretary of Agriculture, who will make the final awards.

Applications are due to KDA no later than 5:00 p.m. CST on November 24, 2021. For more information, please download the 2021 KDA Request for Applications from:&nbsp;<a href="https://lnks.gd/l/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJidWxsZXRpbl9saW5rX2lkIjoxMDAsInVyaSI6ImJwMjpjbGljayIsImJ1bGxldGluX2lkIjoiMjAyMTEwMDcuNDcwMzA4MTEiLCJ1cmwiOiJodHRwczovL2FncmljdWx0dXJlLmtzLmdvdi9zcGVjaWFsdHljcm9wP3V0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX3NvdXJjZT1nb3ZkZWxpdmVyeSJ9.mRIBPLsHrCoc1M5vHd5Baqex7nb85Dbh0Fa7_Nbt83g/s/1377890594/br/113551709257-l" target="_blank">agriculture.ks.gov/specialtycrop</a>.

The vision of the Kansas Department of Agriculture is to provide an ideal environment for long-term, sustainable agricultural prosperity and statewide economic growth. To achieve this vision, the agency advocates for sectors at all levels and provides industry outreach.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/10/1633973653590.jpeg" alt="Bobwhite Vines LLC, of Hartford, Kansas (Courtesy photo)" />
 <figcaption>Bobwhite Vines LLC, of Hartford, Kansas (Courtesy photo)</figcaption>
 </figure>KDAMANHATTAN — The Kansas Department of Agriculture is now accepting applications for the 2021 Specialty Crop Block Grant H.R. 133 Stimulus Program. This program is in addition to the traditional Specialty Crop Block Grant Program. Awards for that program will be announced later this fall.&nbsp;Funds for both grant programs are awarded to the agency by the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Marketing Service. The funds are in turn granted to projects and organizations to enhance the competitiveness of specialty crops by leveraging efforts to market and promote specialty crops; assisting producers with research and development relevant to specialty crops; expanding availability and access to specialty crops; and addressing local, regional, and national challenges confronting specialty crop producers. Specialty crops are defined by the USDA as “fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, dried fruits, horticulture, and nursery crops, including floriculture.”Due to COVID-19 impacts on the food system, Congress authorized one-time additional funding for the Specialty Crop Block Grant H.R. 133 Stimulus Program outside of the traditional Farm Bill funding under the 2021 Consolidated Appropriations Act. Kansas is expected to receive approximately $450,000 in H.R. 133 Stimulus funding for the 2021 grant cycle.Applications will be evaluated by a team of external reviewers. The team will rate proposals on their ability to successfully promote specialty crops in Kansas and make a positive impact on the Kansas economy. Those recommendations will be submitted to the Kansas Secretary of Agriculture, who will make the final awards.Applications are due to KDA no later than 5:00 p.m. CST on November 24, 2021. For more information, please download the 2021 KDA Request for Applications from:&nbsp;<a href="https://lnks.gd/l/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJidWxsZXRpbl9saW5rX2lkIjoxMDAsInVyaSI6ImJwMjpjbGljayIsImJ1bGxldGluX2lkIjoiMjAyMTEwMDcuNDcwMzA4MTEiLCJ1cmwiOiJodHRwczovL2FncmljdWx0dXJlLmtzLmdvdi9zcGVjaWFsdHljcm9wP3V0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX3NvdXJjZT1nb3ZkZWxpdmVyeSJ9.mRIBPLsHrCoc1M5vHd5Baqex7nb85Dbh0Fa7_Nbt83g/s/1377890594/br/113551709257-l" target="_blank">agriculture.ks.gov/specialtycrop</a>.The vision of the Kansas Department of Agriculture is to provide an ideal environment for long-term, sustainable agricultural prosperity and statewide economic growth. To achieve this vision, the agency advocates for sectors at all levels and provides industry outreach.

New stimulus grant opportunity for specialty crops announced by KDA 

Though we often think of soil testing as a spring chore, fall can be a better time.

Soil-testing laboratories are often very busy during the spring resulting in a longer turnaround from submission to recommendations. Also, soils in the spring are often waterlogged, making taking samples difficult.

If your soil test suggests more organic matter, fall is a much better season because materials are more available than in the spring (tree leaves), and fresher materials can be used without harming young tender spring-planted plants.

​Begin by taking a representative sample from at least six locations in the garden or lawn. Each sample should contain soil from the surface to about 6 to 8 inches deep.

This is most easily done with a soil sampler. Many K-State Research and Extension offices have such samplers available for checkout. If you don’t have a sampler, use a shovel to dig straight down into the soil. Then shave a small layer off the back of the hole for your sample. Mix the samples together in a clean plastic container and select about 1 to 1.5 cups of soil. This can be placed in a plastic container such as a resealable plastic bag.

Take the soil to your county extension office to have tests done for a small charge at the K-State soil-testing laboratory. A soil test determines fertility problems, not other conditions that may exist such as poor drainage, poor soil structure, soil-borne diseases or insects, chemical contaminants or damage, or shade with root competition from other plants. All these conditions may reduce plant performance but cannot be evaluated by a soil test. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/10/1634147981287.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. " />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. </figcaption>
 </figure>Though we often think of soil testing as a spring chore, fall can be a better time.Soil-testing laboratories are often very busy during the spring resulting in a longer turnaround from submission to recommendations. Also, soils in the spring are often waterlogged, making taking samples difficult.If your soil test suggests more organic matter, fall is a much better season because materials are more available than in the spring (tree leaves), and fresher materials can be used without harming young tender spring-planted plants.​Begin by taking a representative sample from at least six locations in the garden or lawn. Each sample should contain soil from the surface to about 6 to 8 inches deep.This is most easily done with a soil sampler. Many K-State Research and Extension offices have such samplers available for checkout. If you don’t have a sampler, use a shovel to dig straight down into the soil. Then shave a small layer off the back of the hole for your sample. Mix the samples together in a clean plastic container and select about 1 to 1.5 cups of soil. This can be placed in a plastic container such as a resealable plastic bag.Take the soil to your county extension office to have tests done for a small charge at the K-State soil-testing laboratory. A soil test determines fertility problems, not other conditions that may exist such as poor drainage, poor soil structure, soil-borne diseases or insects, chemical contaminants or damage, or shade with root competition from other plants. All these conditions may reduce plant performance but cannot be evaluated by a soil test. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

WALZ: ​Fall is a Good Time for Soil Testing 

Sometimes you will hear people say to let the grass grow tall right before winter sets in. Their reasoning is that the extra foliage will insulate the crown of the plant from the extreme cold of winter. Although this may sound reasonable, in practice it probably does little, if anything, to increase winter hardiness. On the contrary, a canopy that is too high during the winter may lay over and become matted down, leading to an increased incidence of winter diseases such as snow mold. Turfgrass species vary genetically in their cold tolerance, with warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and buffalograss being less cold tolerant than the cool-season types such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Given these differences, cold tolerance is improved by increasing the health of the plants going into the winter, and healthy plants are a result of a sound management program (fertilizing, watering, and mowing) during the spring, summer and fall.The lawn will benefit more from continuing to mow at the recommended height than from trying to gain some insulation against winter cold by allowing it to grow tall. Here is a list of the recommended mowing height ranges (in inches) for home lawns in Kansas:&nbsp; • Tall fescue: 2.5 -3.5&nbsp; &nbsp; • Kentucky bluegrass: 2-3&nbsp; &nbsp; • Buffalograss: 2-3&nbsp; &nbsp; • Bermudagrass: 1-2&nbsp; &nbsp; • Zoysiagrass: 1-2

(Note: Mowing at heights below 1.5 inches requires a reel mower).​There may be some benefits gained by adjusting mowing heights WITHIN the recommended range at times. For example, it is a good practice to mow warm-season grasses at the higher end of recommended heights during late summer and early fall because this practice should help them store more carbohydrate reserves for the winter, and it may reduce the incidence of certain cool-weather diseases. But the rule to remember is to stay within the recommended height range for your species. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Sometimes you will hear people say to let the grass grow tall right before winter sets in. Their reasoning is that the extra foliage will insulate the crown of the plant from the extreme cold of winter. Although this may sound reasonable, in practice it probably does little, if anything, to increase winter hardiness. On the contrary, a canopy that is too high during the winter may lay over and become matted down, leading to an increased incidence of winter diseases such as snow mold. Turfgrass species vary genetically in their cold tolerance, with warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and buffalograss being less cold tolerant than the cool-season types such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Given these differences, cold tolerance is improved by increasing the health of the plants going into the winter, and healthy plants are a result of a sound management program (fertilizing, watering, and mowing) during the spring, summer and fall.The lawn will benefit more from continuing to mow at the recommended height than from trying to gain some insulation against winter cold by allowing it to grow tall. Here is a list of the recommended mowing height ranges (in inches) for home lawns in Kansas:&nbsp; • Tall fescue: 2.5 -3.5&nbsp; &nbsp; • Kentucky bluegrass: 2-3&nbsp; &nbsp; • Buffalograss: 2-3&nbsp; &nbsp; • Bermudagrass: 1-2&nbsp; &nbsp; • Zoysiagrass: 1-2(Note: Mowing at heights below 1.5 inches requires a reel mower).​There may be some benefits gained by adjusting mowing heights WITHIN the recommended range at times. For example, it is a good practice to mow warm-season grasses at the higher end of recommended heights during late summer and early fall because this practice should help them store more carbohydrate reserves for the winter, and it may reduce the incidence of certain cool-weather diseases. But the rule to remember is to stay within the recommended height range for your species. Lauren Walz is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

WALZ: Should you let your turf grow tall in the fall?

Popular program will offer sessions on backyard birds, winter landscapes&nbsp;

MANHATTAN – Organizers of a popular, lunch-hour gardening program say they are gearing up to offer more sessions even as the days turn a bit colder.&nbsp;

The K-State Garden Hour wraps up its fall series in late September, but officials have announced two sessions that will be held the first Wednesday in October and November.&nbsp;

A&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour-register">one-time registration fee</a>&nbsp;gives viewers free access to both sessions, which include:&nbsp;

More information on both sessions and recordings of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour">past webinars are available online</a>.&nbsp;

The K-State Garden Hour debuted online during the COVID-19 pandemic to accommodate gardeners staying at home more often, as well as those who were looking for an outdoor hobby.&nbsp;

Matthew McKernan, a K-State Research and Extension horticulture agent in Sedgwick County, said nearly 10,000 participants attended at least one session through the first half of 2021. Though statistics aren’t yet available for the fall series, the interest in the program among Kansans seems to have continued the past several weeks.&nbsp;

“Even though people often garden less during the winter months, there are still many things everyone can do to create landscape interest and support garden wildlife in the winter months,” McKernan said. “That’s really what our winter series of the K-State Garden Hour will focus on – getting the most out of your garden even in the winter months”.&nbsp;

In addition to information online, interested persons can also&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">contact their local K-State Research and Extension office</a>&nbsp;for more details on the K-State Garden Hour.&nbsp;

<h2>Popular program will offer sessions on backyard birds, winter landscapes&nbsp;</h2>K-State News &amp; ExtensionMANHATTAN – Organizers of a popular, lunch-hour gardening program say they are gearing up to offer more sessions even as the days turn a bit colder.&nbsp;The K-State Garden Hour wraps up its fall series in late September, but officials have announced two sessions that will be held the first Wednesday in October and November.&nbsp;A&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour-register">one-time registration fee</a>&nbsp;gives viewers free access to both sessions, which include:&nbsp; <ul>
 <li>Oct. 6 – Embrace your landscape’s wild side: Supporting backyard birds.&nbsp;</li><li>Nov. 3 – Winter interest in the landscape.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>More information on both sessions and recordings of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ksre-learn.com/KStateGardenHour">past webinars are available online</a>.&nbsp;The K-State Garden Hour debuted online during the COVID-19 pandemic to accommodate gardeners staying at home more often, as well as those who were looking for an outdoor hobby.&nbsp;Matthew McKernan, a K-State Research and Extension horticulture agent in Sedgwick County, said nearly 10,000 participants attended at least one session through the first half of 2021. Though statistics aren’t yet available for the fall series, the interest in the program among Kansans seems to have continued the past several weeks.&nbsp;“Even though people often garden less during the winter months, there are still many things everyone can do to create landscape interest and support garden wildlife in the winter months,” McKernan said. “That’s really what our winter series of the K-State Garden Hour will focus on – getting the most out of your garden even in the winter months”.&nbsp;In addition to information online, interested persons can also&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/statewide-locations.html">contact their local K-State Research and Extension office</a>&nbsp;for more details on the K-State Garden Hour.&nbsp;

K-State Garden Hour preps for winter series 

Late September through October is an excellent time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as crocus, tulips, and daffodils. These plants need to develop roots in the fall and must meet a chilling requirement over the winter to bloom in the spring. Choose a planting site that has full sun to partial shade. The ideal soil would be a sandy loam, but even poor soils can be used if organic material such as peat moss, compost, or aged bark is mixed in. For example, heavy clay can be amended by mixing in one-third to one-half organic material. Soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. Bulbs need good aeration as well as good drainage for proper development. It is best if the bulbs are given 12 inches of prepared soil. If one-third of organic material were added, this would require mixing 4 inches of organic material with 8 inches of soil. Incorporate about 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as a 5-10-5 per 100 square feet during preparation or fertilize according to soil test. Planting depths vary depending on the size of the bulbs. For example, tulips and hyacinths are set about 6 inches deep, and daffodils are put 6 to 8 inches deep. Smaller bulbs are planted shallower. As a rule of thumb, bulbs are planted two to three times as deep as their width. Planting depth is the distance from the bottom of the bulb to the top of the soil. Large bulbs are normally spaced 4 to 6 inches apart, and small bulbs are about 1 to 2 inches. Planting in clumps or irregular masses produces a better display than planting singly. After placing the bulbs at the proper depth, replace half the soil and add water. This will settle the soil around the bulbs and provide good bulb/soil contact. Add the remaining soil and water again. Although there will be no top growth in the fall, the roots are developing, so the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy. Mulch can be added after the soil has frozen to prevent small bulbs from being heaved out of the soil by alternate freezing and thawing. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Late September through October is an excellent time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as crocus, tulips, and daffodils. These plants need to develop roots in the fall and must meet a chilling requirement over the winter to bloom in the spring. Choose a planting site that has full sun to partial shade. The ideal soil would be a sandy loam, but even poor soils can be used if organic material such as peat moss, compost, or aged bark is mixed in. For example, heavy clay can be amended by mixing in one-third to one-half organic material. Soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. Bulbs need good aeration as well as good drainage for proper development. It is best if the bulbs are given 12 inches of prepared soil. If one-third of organic material were added, this would require mixing 4 inches of organic material with 8 inches of soil. Incorporate about 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer such as a 5-10-5 per 100 square feet during preparation or fertilize according to soil test. Planting depths vary depending on the size of the bulbs. For example, tulips and hyacinths are set about 6 inches deep, and daffodils are put 6 to 8 inches deep. Smaller bulbs are planted shallower. As a rule of thumb, bulbs are planted two to three times as deep as their width. Planting depth is the distance from the bottom of the bulb to the top of the soil. Large bulbs are normally spaced 4 to 6 inches apart, and small bulbs are about 1 to 2 inches. Planting in clumps or irregular masses produces a better display than planting singly. After placing the bulbs at the proper depth, replace half the soil and add water. This will settle the soil around the bulbs and provide good bulb/soil contact. Add the remaining soil and water again. Although there will be no top growth in the fall, the roots are developing, so the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy. Mulch can be added after the soil has frozen to prevent small bulbs from being heaved out of the soil by alternate freezing and thawing. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

FICK: Time to plant spring-flowering bulbs approaching

Cool- and warm-season grasses need year-round care&nbsp;

By EMILY HALSTEAD K-State Research and Extension news writer

MANHATTAN — Keeping a healthy home lawn can be difficult for those who are not well versed in horticulture and lawn care. Kansas State University horticulture specialist Ward Upham shared his tips for maintaining a healthy lawn in Kansas.&nbsp;

“We live in a transition zone where we are too warm to grow cool-season grasses well, while also being too cold to grow warm season grasses well,” Upham said.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Some examples are fescue and Kentucky bluegrass which are cool-season grasses; and bermudagrass, zoysia and buffalo grass, which are warm-season grasses.&nbsp;&nbsp;

While buffalograss may not always grow well in Kansas, it is one of the most popular turfgrass species in the state, along with tall fescue Upham said.&nbsp;

“Buffalograss has become more popular in recent years due to its reputation as a low maintenance grass,” Upham said.&nbsp;

Upham gave some tips and things to look out for in home lawns in fall, winter, spring and next summer.&nbsp;&nbsp;

“Summertime is very difficult for cool-season grasses because they do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that warm season grasses have,” Upham said.&nbsp;&nbsp;

He added that lawn care in Kansas can be tricky, but K-State Research and Extension has many&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/publications/lawns-and-turf.html">helpful publications</a>, and&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">experts</a>&nbsp;to answer questions.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <iframe width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/VNDNTaP49_o"></iframe>
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Cool- and warm-season grasses need year-round care&nbsp;</h2>By EMILY HALSTEAD K-State Research and Extension news writerMANHATTAN — Keeping a healthy home lawn can be difficult for those who are not well versed in horticulture and lawn care. Kansas State University horticulture specialist Ward Upham shared his tips for maintaining a healthy lawn in Kansas.&nbsp;“We live in a transition zone where we are too warm to grow cool-season grasses well, while also being too cold to grow warm season grasses well,” Upham said.&nbsp;&nbsp;Some examples are fescue and Kentucky bluegrass which are cool-season grasses; and bermudagrass, zoysia and buffalo grass, which are warm-season grasses.&nbsp;&nbsp;While buffalograss may not always grow well in Kansas, it is one of the most popular turfgrass species in the state, along with tall fescue Upham said.&nbsp;“Buffalograss has become more popular in recent years due to its reputation as a low maintenance grass,” Upham said.&nbsp;Upham gave some tips and things to look out for in home lawns in fall, winter, spring and next summer.&nbsp;&nbsp;Fall&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>Get ready to fertilize in September and early November for cool-season grasses.&nbsp;</li><li>If broadleaf weeds are an issue, spray for them in late October. Treat on a day that is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit and do not irrigate within 24 hours.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>Winter&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>Winter is the time for dormant overseeding, if there is a need to fill in bare spots that were not overseeded in the fall.&nbsp;</li><li>Dormant overseeding can be effective for cool-season grasses when done in small areas of a lawn from December through February.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>Spring&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>Crabgrass preventer can be applied between April 1 and April 15. If using a product that contains prodiamine, the preventer should be applied two weeks earlier.&nbsp;</li><li>For crabgrass preventers to work, they must be watered in, meaning the product must be washed into the soil either by rain or watering.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li><li>If broadleaf weeds are still an issue in the spring, spot treatment can be helpful.&nbsp;&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>Summer&nbsp;<ul>
 <li>June is a good time to aerate warm-season lawns.&nbsp;</li><li>Late July through August is the best time to apply a grub killer if experiencing grub damage.&nbsp;</li>
 </ul>“Summertime is very difficult for cool-season grasses because they do not have the heat or moisture stress tolerance that warm season grasses have,” Upham said.&nbsp;&nbsp;He added that lawn care in Kansas can be tricky, but K-State Research and Extension has many&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/publications/lawns-and-turf.html">helpful publications</a>, and&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">experts</a>&nbsp;to answer questions.&nbsp;

🎥 Lawn Calendar: K-State expert shares tips for healthy home lawns 

Many young, smooth, thin-barked trees such as honeylocusts, fruit trees, ashes, oaks, maples, lindens, and willows are susceptible to sunscald and bark cracks. 

Sunscald normally develops on the south or southwest side of the tree during late winter. Sunny, warm winter days may heat the bark to relatively high temperatures. Research done in Georgia has shown that the southwest side of the trunk of a peach tree can be 40 degrees warmer than shaded bark. This warming action can cause a loss of cold hardiness of the bark tissue resulting in cells becoming active. These cells then become susceptible to lethal freezing when the temperature drops at night. The damaged bark tissue becomes sunken and discolored in late spring. &nbsp;Damaged bark will eventually crack and slough off. &nbsp;

Trees often recover but need special care — especially watering during dry weather.​If you have seen this type of damage in previous years or fear you have susceptible trees, preventative measures are called for. &nbsp;Applying a light-colored tree wrap from the ground to the start of the first branches can protect young and/or recently planted trees. This should be done in October to November and removed the following March. Failure to remove the tree wrap in the spring can prove detrimental to the tree. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Many young, smooth, thin-barked trees such as honeylocusts, fruit trees, ashes, oaks, maples, lindens, and willows are susceptible to sunscald and bark cracks. Sunscald normally develops on the south or southwest side of the tree during late winter. Sunny, warm winter days may heat the bark to relatively high temperatures. Research done in Georgia has shown that the southwest side of the trunk of a peach tree can be 40 degrees warmer than shaded bark. This warming action can cause a loss of cold hardiness of the bark tissue resulting in cells becoming active. These cells then become susceptible to lethal freezing when the temperature drops at night. The damaged bark tissue becomes sunken and discolored in late spring. &nbsp;Damaged bark will eventually crack and slough off. &nbsp;Trees often recover but need special care — especially watering during dry weather.​If you have seen this type of damage in previous years or fear you have susceptible trees, preventative measures are called for. &nbsp;Applying a light-colored tree wrap from the ground to the start of the first branches can protect young and/or recently planted trees. This should be done in October to November and removed the following March. Failure to remove the tree wrap in the spring can prove detrimental to the tree. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Preventing sunscald on thin-barked trees

Matthew Charles “Matt” Schillig Jr., of Stratton, CO, passed away August
 26, 2021 at the age of 68. He was born April 2, 1953 in Iowa City, IA 
to Matthew Charles, Sr. and Betty Ruth (Pokorny) Schillig. 
 Matt grew up in Iowa City, IA area and graduated from high school in
 1971. He married Cynthia Marie Grieser on June 14, 1978 in Anamosa, IA.
 He retired from the Kansas Department of Transportation after 30+ 
years. In his spare time he enjoyed fishing. Matt had a passion for 
horticulture, cultivation, and gardening. 
 Matt was preceded in death by his parents; wife, Cynthia and sister,
 Rebecca “Beck” Schillig. He is survived by his sons, Aden (Sara) 
Schillig of Texas City, TX and Steven (Stacy) Schillig of Stratton, CO; 
four grandchildren, and siblings: Betty (Bill) Halleran of Riverside, 
IA, Barb (Gary) Carlson of Anamosa, IA, Karen (Bruce) Barnekow of Mason 
City, IA, Shirley (Greg) Harland of Kalona, IA, John (Tracy) Schillig of
 Easton, KS, and Kristine (Juan) Sandiford of Nassau Bahamas.

Click <a href="https://www.paulsfh.com/obituaries/Matt?obId=22222679#/celebrationWall">HERE</a> for service details.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/9/1630675734952.jpeg" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Matthew Charles “Matt” Schillig Jr., of Stratton, CO, passed away August
 26, 2021 at the age of 68. He was born April 2, 1953 in Iowa City, IA 
to Matthew Charles, Sr. and Betty Ruth (Pokorny) Schillig. 
 Matt grew up in Iowa City, IA area and graduated from high school in
 1971. He married Cynthia Marie Grieser on June 14, 1978 in Anamosa, IA.
 He retired from the Kansas Department of Transportation after 30+ 
years. In his spare time he enjoyed fishing. Matt had a passion for 
horticulture, cultivation, and gardening. 
 Matt was preceded in death by his parents; wife, Cynthia and sister,
 Rebecca “Beck” Schillig. He is survived by his sons, Aden (Sara) 
Schillig of Texas City, TX and Steven (Stacy) Schillig of Stratton, CO; 
four grandchildren, and siblings: Betty (Bill) Halleran of Riverside, 
IA, Barb (Gary) Carlson of Anamosa, IA, Karen (Bruce) Barnekow of Mason 
City, IA, Shirley (Greg) Harland of Kalona, IA, John (Tracy) Schillig of
 Easton, KS, and Kristine (Juan) Sandiford of Nassau Bahamas.Click <a href="https://www.paulsfh.com/obituaries/Matt?obId=22222679#/celebrationWall">HERE</a> for service details.

Matthew Charles 'Matt' Schillig Jr.

Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings. Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seeds from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch. Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. &nbsp; For small spots, a hand rake can be used to roughen up the soil before the seed is applied. A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go in two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. Another option is to use a core aerator. The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil. Of the three methods, I prefer the slit seeder for obtaining good seed/soil contact. &nbsp;However, if watering is difficult, core aeration may be a better option. &nbsp;Regardless of the method used, fertilizer should be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Tall fescue lawns that have become thin over the summer can be thickened up by overseeding during September. Start by mowing the grass short (1 to 1.5 inches) and removing the clippings. This will make it easier to achieve good seed-soil contact and increase the amount of light that will reach the young seedlings. Good seed-soil contact is vital if the overseeding is to be successful. Excess thatch can prevent seeds from reaching the soil and germinating. Normally we want 1/4 inch of thatch or less when overseeding. If the thatch layer is 3/4 inch or more, it is usually easiest to use a sod cutter to remove it and start over with a new lawn. A power rake can be used to reduce a thatch layer that is less than 3/4 inch but more than a quarter inch. Once thatch is under control, the soil should be prepared for the seed. This can be done in various ways. &nbsp; For small spots, a hand rake can be used to roughen up the soil before the seed is applied. A verticut machine has solid vertical blades that can be set to cut furrows in the soil. It is best to go in two different directions with the machine. A slit seeder is a verticut machine with a seed hopper added so the soil prep and seeding operation are combined. Another option is to use a core aerator. The core aerator will punch holes in the soil and deposit the soil cores on the surface of the ground. Each hole produces an excellent environment for seed germination and growth. Make three to four passes with the core aerator to ensure enough holes for the seed. Using a core aerator has the additional benefit of reducing the amount of watering needed to get the seed germinated and growing. Aeration also increases the water infiltration rate, decreases compaction, and increases the amount of oxygen in the soil. Of the three methods, I prefer the slit seeder for obtaining good seed/soil contact. &nbsp;However, if watering is difficult, core aeration may be a better option. &nbsp;Regardless of the method used, fertilizer should be applied at the rate suggested by a soil test, or a starter fertilizer should be used at the rate suggested on the bag. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Overseeding a lawn

We are seeing numerous reports of fall armyworms especially in the southeast and south-central Kansas. &nbsp;Though we have had fall armyworm outbreaks in the past, this is earlier than usual.

Armyworms are so-called because they invade fields or landscapes as large groups and can cause a lawn to turn brown seemingly overnight. Young worms are ½ to 3/4 inch long. Mature ones are 1 ½ inch long. Body-color may vary from green to almost black but light stripes will be visible along the length of the body. Look for a whitish inverted "Y" on the top of the black head. It normally takes 2 to 3 weeks to progress from egg to pupa. The adult is a moth. Armyworm damage can resemble drought damage but close inspection of the turf will reveal the larvae. Look for active feeding during early morning or evening hours or on cloudy days. Larvae feed on foliage and the resulting dehydration causes to turf to quickly brown. Normally, armyworm damage does not kill established turf but may if populations are high enough. Thick infestations of fall armyworms can damage turfgrass crowns which will kill turf. Acephate (Orthene, Acephate), spinosad (Conserve; Natural Guard Spinosad, Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew; Monterey Garden Insect Spray), and other insecticides are effective caterpillar killers. Treat in the late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. Do not mow for 3 days after treatment. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/8/1629725136273.png" alt="Courtesy photo" />
 <figcaption>Courtesy photo</figcaption>
 </figure>We are seeing numerous reports of fall armyworms especially in the southeast and south-central Kansas. &nbsp;Though we have had fall armyworm outbreaks in the past, this is earlier than usual.<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Armyworms are so-called because they invade fields or landscapes as large groups and can cause a lawn to turn brown seemingly overnight. Young worms are ½ to 3/4 inch long. Mature ones are 1 ½ inch long. Body-color may vary from green to almost black but light stripes will be visible along the length of the body. Look for a whitish inverted "Y" on the top of the black head. It normally takes 2 to 3 weeks to progress from egg to pupa. The adult is a moth. Armyworm damage can resemble drought damage but close inspection of the turf will reveal the larvae. Look for active feeding during early morning or evening hours or on cloudy days. Larvae feed on foliage and the resulting dehydration causes to turf to quickly brown. Normally, armyworm damage does not kill established turf but may if populations are high enough. Thick infestations of fall armyworms can damage turfgrass crowns which will kill turf. Acephate (Orthene, Acephate), spinosad (Conserve; Natural Guard Spinosad, Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew; Monterey Garden Insect Spray), and other insecticides are effective caterpillar killers. Treat in the late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. Do not mow for 3 days after treatment. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Fall armyworms on turf

Many gardeners make compost without understanding how to use it around the home. Composthas a number of horticultural applications, which are described below. Fertilization and soil improvement. Organic materials can be added to improve soil looseness and workability. Heavy, tight clay soils benefit from the loosening effects of composted organic materials. In sandy soils, organic material acts as a sponge to hold water and nutrients.Compost contains nutrients plants require. The amount of specific nutrients depends on the types of materials composted and how much water the pile contains. The suggested application rate is 50 to 100 pounds per 100 square feet, which is about ¼ inch of material spread over the entire garden. The best time to apply compost is just before tillage in either the spring or fall to incorporate the compost throughout the root zone. In Kansas, garden soils are often tilled in the fall. Compost made early in the season should be ready by then, or use last year’s compost if you have a two-pile system. Compost at planting. Apply a band of compost in the bottom of a row trench or add several shovels full to the bottom of planting holes. Tomato plants, perennial flowers, trees, and shrubs benefit from the slow release of nutrients through the early growth period. Compost can be applied as a top dressing for seeded vegetables and flowers to prevent soil crusting. It can be used as a substitute for soluble fertilizer or starter solution when mixed in equal parts with water.Leftover compost can be added to garden soil later. Potting mix for seedlings. Compost that has been screened for large particles can be mixed with soil or sand in approximately equal parts, and then used as a growing medium. To ensure healthy seedlings, compost should be well deteriorated and free of harmful disease organisms and insects. Using compost on a lawn. The best way to use compost is to apply it liberally before planting. Fertilize by adding a thin layer of top dressing every year.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>Many gardeners make compost without understanding how to use it around the home. Composthas a number of horticultural applications, which are described below. Fertilization and soil improvement. Organic materials can be added to improve soil looseness and workability. Heavy, tight clay soils benefit from the loosening effects of composted organic materials. In sandy soils, organic material acts as a sponge to hold water and nutrients.Compost contains nutrients plants require. The amount of specific nutrients depends on the types of materials composted and how much water the pile contains. The suggested application rate is 50 to 100 pounds per 100 square feet, which is about ¼ inch of material spread over the entire garden. The best time to apply compost is just before tillage in either the spring or fall to incorporate the compost throughout the root zone. In Kansas, garden soils are often tilled in the fall. Compost made early in the season should be ready by then, or use last year’s compost if you have a two-pile system. Compost at planting. Apply a band of compost in the bottom of a row trench or add several shovels full to the bottom of planting holes. Tomato plants, perennial flowers, trees, and shrubs benefit from the slow release of nutrients through the early growth period. Compost can be applied as a top dressing for seeded vegetables and flowers to prevent soil crusting. It can be used as a substitute for soluble fertilizer or starter solution when mixed in equal parts with water.Leftover compost can be added to garden soil later. Potting mix for seedlings. Compost that has been screened for large particles can be mixed with soil or sand in approximately equal parts, and then used as a growing medium. To ensure healthy seedlings, compost should be well deteriorated and free of harmful disease organisms and insects. Using compost on a lawn. The best way to use compost is to apply it liberally before planting. Fertilize by adding a thin layer of top dressing every year.&nbsp; Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Using compost

Peonies are a favorite perennial of gardeners because of their beauty and low maintenance. In Kansas, peonies provide a beautiful display of flowers each spring before Memorial Day. Though peonies can be left in place indefinitely, many gardeners wish to increase their plantings and use a process known as division to accomplish this. Keep in mind, however, that peonies often take about three years to return to full bloom and size after division. Fall is the traditional time to divide these plants. Peonies are essentially dormant by mid-August even though the foliage is still green. The first step in division is to remove the foliage. Then dig out the entire plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as possible so that the pink buds or "eyes" are visible. Peony roots are tough, and a sharp knife is needed to cut the roots into separate pieces. Make sure each division has three to four buds. Make sure the location chosen for planting receives at least a half-day of full sun. However, the more sun, the better. Space the plants so that there is at least 2 feet between dwarf types and 4 feet between the standard types. Follow the same rules for planting these divisions as you do for new plants. Make sure the pink buds are about 1 inch below the soil surface. If they are set more than 2 inches deep, flowering may be delayed or completely prevented. As you set the plants, firm soil often as it is added around the plant. If the soil is not firmed, it can settle and pull the plant down with it. Water in well after planting and water as necessary through the fall and winter to keep the soil moist. &nbsp; It is often a good idea to add mulch to the new planting to protect it from heaving. The alternate freezing and thawing that commonly occurs during Kansas winters can "heave" weakly rooted plants out of the ground. Add a mulch of straw, leaves, compost or other material after the soil freezes. Remember, it is not the cold that harms these plants but the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Peonies are a favorite perennial of gardeners because of their beauty and low maintenance. In Kansas, peonies provide a beautiful display of flowers each spring before Memorial Day. Though peonies can be left in place indefinitely, many gardeners wish to increase their plantings and use a process known as division to accomplish this. Keep in mind, however, that peonies often take about three years to return to full bloom and size after division. Fall is the traditional time to divide these plants. Peonies are essentially dormant by mid-August even though the foliage is still green. The first step in division is to remove the foliage. Then dig out the entire plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as possible so that the pink buds or "eyes" are visible. Peony roots are tough, and a sharp knife is needed to cut the roots into separate pieces. Make sure each division has three to four buds. Make sure the location chosen for planting receives at least a half-day of full sun. However, the more sun, the better. Space the plants so that there is at least 2 feet between dwarf types and 4 feet between the standard types. Follow the same rules for planting these divisions as you do for new plants. Make sure the pink buds are about 1 inch below the soil surface. If they are set more than 2 inches deep, flowering may be delayed or completely prevented. As you set the plants, firm soil often as it is added around the plant. If the soil is not firmed, it can settle and pull the plant down with it. Water in well after planting and water as necessary through the fall and winter to keep the soil moist. &nbsp; It is often a good idea to add mulch to the new planting to protect it from heaving. The alternate freezing and thawing that commonly occurs during Kansas winters can "heave" weakly rooted plants out of the ground. Add a mulch of straw, leaves, compost or other material after the soil freezes. Remember, it is not the cold that harms these plants but the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.

FICK: Dividing peonies

If there are areas of the garden that are done producing, chop and shred residue in preparation for tilling. If soils are wet, wait a few days so the soil is no longer muddy. Tilling in residue allows plant material to decompose and helps reduce insect and disease problems for the next year. Also, consider using a cover crop to hold the soil and increase the organic matter content of the soil. Small grains such as wheat should be seeded at 3/4 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet from mid-September to late October. &nbsp;Spring oats can also be seeded until mid-September but the rate should be 2 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. &nbsp;Spring oats will winter kill and can be tilled under in the spring. &nbsp;Legume cover crops such as hairy vetch, alfalfa, and sweet clover provide an additional benefit by "fixing" nitrogen, thereby increasing the fertility of the soil. Each of these should be seeded at about 1/4 to ½ pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet of garden. Sweetclover should be seeded from August to early September and hairy vetch and alfalfa from mid-August to late September. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>If there are areas of the garden that are done producing, chop and shred residue in preparation for tilling. If soils are wet, wait a few days so the soil is no longer muddy. Tilling in residue allows plant material to decompose and helps reduce insect and disease problems for the next year. Also, consider using a cover crop to hold the soil and increase the organic matter content of the soil. Small grains such as wheat should be seeded at 3/4 to 1 pound of seed per 1,000 square feet from mid-September to late October. &nbsp;Spring oats can also be seeded until mid-September but the rate should be 2 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. &nbsp;Spring oats will winter kill and can be tilled under in the spring. &nbsp;Legume cover crops such as hairy vetch, alfalfa, and sweet clover provide an additional benefit by "fixing" nitrogen, thereby increasing the fertility of the soil. Each of these should be seeded at about 1/4 to ½ pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet of garden. Sweetclover should be seeded from August to early September and hairy vetch and alfalfa from mid-August to late September. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Preparing the vegetable garden for next year

Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care. Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils, they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to drill a 1/8" hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. The hole should be near the bottom of the bucket. &nbsp;Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once after moving it to the opposite side of the tree. &nbsp;After this bucket empties, you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water. A perforated soaker hose or drip irrigation can be used to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot &nbsp;diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out. Regardless of the method used, the soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post, or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Newly planted trees have not established the extensive root system needed to absorb enough water during hot, dry, windy summers. Even trees two or three years old should receive special care. Deep, infrequent watering and mulching can help trees become established. Newly transplanted trees need at least 10 gallons of water per week, and on sandy soils, they will need that much applied twice a week. The secret is getting that water to soak deeply into the soil, so it evaporates more slowly and is available to the tree’s roots longer. One way to do this is to drill a 1/8" hole in the side of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water. The hole should be near the bottom of the bucket. &nbsp;Let the water dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once after moving it to the opposite side of the tree. &nbsp;After this bucket empties, you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water. A perforated soaker hose or drip irrigation can be used to water a newly established bed or foundation planting. In sunbaked soil, you may need to rough up the surface with a hoe or tiller to get water to infiltrate easily. It may be helpful to set the kitchen oven timer, so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at least a 4-foot &nbsp;diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out. Regardless of the method used, the soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post, or something similar to check depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Watering newly planted trees and shrubs

TOPEKA&nbsp;– Gov. Laura Kelly this week announced that 26 Kansas nonprofit organizations will receive more than $4 million in Community Service Tax Credits to improve and enhance fundraising efforts for education, health care, child care and housing projects.

“The Community Service Tax Credit program is an excellent tool we can use to support our state’s nonprofits and strengthen the essential services they provide to their communities,”&nbsp;Governor Kelly said.&nbsp;“My administration will continue pursuing innovative initiatives like CSP to improve Kansans’ access to quality education, health care, child care and housing to make Kansas the best state in the nation for families and businesses to call home.”

The CSP program provides a 70% tax credit to qualified donors in rural communities with a population less than 15,000 and a 50% tax credit in larger communities. For example, a donor making a $1,000 gift in a rural community receives a $700 tax credit when they file their state taxes, making the net cost to the donor only $300. CSP is distributing $1 million in awards for childcare and early childhood development projects, specifically for services to those under the age of 5.

CSP is a highly competitive program. Awarded nonprofits were chosen through a competitive, score-based selection process.

This year, 26 of the requested 55 projects (constituting 47% of the total funds requested) received CSP funding.

“When it comes to economic and community development, quality of life has to be a priority,”&nbsp;Lieutenant Governor and Commerce Secretary David Toland said. “Helping to ensure that people have the amenities they need in their communities is one of the best ways to maintain a growing, vibrant, stable economy with a motivated and driven workforce. Programs like CSP are a great way to help achieve this outcome for our state.”

CSP funding is being awarded to the following organizations:

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1626792062891.jpeg" alt="Solomon Valley Manor, Stockton (Courtesy photo)" />
 <figcaption>Solomon Valley Manor, Stockton (Courtesy photo)</figcaption>
 </figure>Office of GovernorTOPEKA&nbsp;– Gov. Laura Kelly this week announced that 26 Kansas nonprofit organizations will receive more than $4 million in Community Service Tax Credits to improve and enhance fundraising efforts for education, health care, child care and housing projects.“The Community Service Tax Credit program is an excellent tool we can use to support our state’s nonprofits and strengthen the essential services they provide to their communities,”&nbsp;Governor Kelly said.&nbsp;“My administration will continue pursuing innovative initiatives like CSP to improve Kansans’ access to quality education, health care, child care and housing to make Kansas the best state in the nation for families and businesses to call home.”The CSP program provides a 70% tax credit to qualified donors in rural communities with a population less than 15,000 and a 50% tax credit in larger communities. For example, a donor making a $1,000 gift in a rural community receives a $700 tax credit when they file their state taxes, making the net cost to the donor only $300. CSP is distributing $1 million in awards for childcare and early childhood development projects, specifically for services to those under the age of 5.CSP is a highly competitive program. Awarded nonprofits were chosen through a competitive, score-based selection process.This year, 26 of the requested 55 projects (constituting 47% of the total funds requested) received CSP funding.“When it comes to economic and community development, quality of life has to be a priority,”&nbsp;Lieutenant Governor and Commerce Secretary David Toland said. “Helping to ensure that people have the amenities they need in their communities is one of the best ways to maintain a growing, vibrant, stable economy with a motivated and driven workforce. Programs like CSP are a great way to help achieve this outcome for our state.”CSP funding is being awarded to the following organizations:<ul>
 <li>Atchison County: Atchison County Community Schools Education Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of an 8,400-sq-ft, multi-purpose facility to serve numerous needs present in their community.</li><li>Barton County: Golden Belt Community Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of a 4,100-sq-ft building that will house Advancing Barton County’s Childcare Development Center.</li><li>Butler County: Flinthills Services, Inc.&nbsp;– Renovations at a 4,800-sq-ft facility, including wall removal, new flooring, addition of handicap-accessible shower, specialized furniture, kitchen renovations, signage and outside fencing and gravel work.</li><li>Cowley County: William Newton Memorial Hospital&nbsp;– Purchase and installation of a new call system, offering improved communication and increased efficiency of patient care.</li><li>Douglas County: Elizabeth B Ballard Community Center, Inc.&nbsp;– Updating building-wide HVAC upgrades that will provide better ventilation, better air filtration and better clean air for the childcare and community center.</li><li>Finney County: High Plains Housing Development Corporation&nbsp;– Initial startup funding for the construction of 3D-concrete printed homes – a first in Kansas.</li><li>Geary County: Aging Well, Inc. – Construction of three small homes that will provide long-term care to a total of 36 elders (12 elders in each home), with a fourth small home planned to provide assisted living services to 14 elders.</li><li>Greeley County: Greeley County Health Services, Inc.&nbsp;– Funding for the&nbsp;G+Kids&nbsp;project, an initiative designed to meet the childcare needs of Greeley County Health Services employees and other local residents.</li><li>Harvey County: Kidron Bethel Retirement Services, Inc. – Construction of a new community space/chapel to solve overcrowding and program disruption at the current space.</li><li>Johnson County: Down Syndrome Guild of Greater Kansas City, Inc. –&nbsp;Establishment of an 11,000-sq-ft multi-functional building to house several components designed to equip people with Down Syndrome of all ages and their caregivers.</li><li>Johnson County: Friends of JCDS, Inc.&nbsp;– The purchase and renovations of two properties for affordable and accessible housing&nbsp;needs, serving adults with intellectual and developmental disabilities.</li><li>Labette County: Labette Health Foundation&nbsp;– Expansion of the Independence Healthcare Center, including a pharmacy, expanded laboratory, ultrasound, conference room, home health, a physical therapy department and an additional 19 exam/procedure rooms.</li><li>Lyon County: Emporia Arts Council&nbsp;– Construction of EAC’s Innovation Laboratory and updates to its classrooms and theater.</li><li>Lyon County: Hetlinger Developmental Services, Inc.&nbsp;– The construction of a new greenhouse with state-of-the-art automated systems, including irrigation, shading and ecofriendly operations, which will allow persons served to participate in horticultural therapy and gardening activities.</li><li>McPherson County: Sprout House Learning Center Inc.&nbsp;– Establishing a purpose-built childcare center to accommodate 67 children in the first phase, which will enable them to move their program out of several makeshift spaces into one attractive space with room to grow and develop the program.</li><li>Montgomery County: Caney Valley Agape Network, Inc.&nbsp;– A new sustainable facility to provide quality produce to more recipients and assist local neighbors in distress.</li><li>Norton County: Valley Hope Association&nbsp;– A new extended treatment program combined with sober housing will expand the existing treatment center capacity from 26 to 35.</li><li>Reno County: Cosmosphere, Inc.&nbsp;– Funding for&nbsp;iWonderSTEM&nbsp;Virtual Education Content, designed to provide 48 underserved schools with a chance to experience the Cosmosphere.</li><li>Rooks County: Solomon Valley Manor&nbsp;– Creating a new long-term care facility that will feature private rooms and private bathrooms/showers.</li><li>Saline County: CKF Addiction Treatment, Inc.&nbsp;– Expanding telehealth treatment services to hospitals across the state to reach additional clients, while continuing to provide services from their homes once they are released.</li><li>Saline County: Young Men's Christian Association of Salina&nbsp;– Adding outdoor pavilions with restrooms to allow expansion of services to their Early Education Center, as well as licensed after school and summer day camp programs for elementary age students.</li><li>Sedgwick County: Catholic Charities Wichita&nbsp;– A new 30,661-square-foot building to serve up to 200 adult participants with intellectual or developmental disabilities, as well as seniors with dementia or Alzheimer’s disease.</li><li>Sedgwick County: The League 42 Foundation&nbsp;– Construction of The Youth Education Center. The center will include 25 computer stations to be at the heart of the education programming provided by League 42.</li><li>Seward County: Kismet Public Library Foundation&nbsp;– Establishment of a community safe room for public use during severe weather events.</li><li>Shawnee County: Friends of the Topeka Zoo, Inc.&nbsp;– Building a new, modern 10,000-square-foot giraffe facility for the zoo’s giraffe herd.&nbsp;</li><li>Wyandotte County: Kansas City Kansas Community College Foundation&nbsp;– A new 114,387-square-foot Downtown Community Education Center to serve as an anchor institution for Kansas City, Kansas.</li>
 </ul>

Stockton, Norton facilities receive tax credits for expansion

Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate the planting and increase flowering. Iris may be divided from late July through August, but late July through early August is ideal.Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength. Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting. Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show high levels of phosphorus. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than the second (phosphorus). This Saturday, July 24, the Ellis County Master Gardeners will be at the Downtown Hays Market from 7:00 am- 1:00 pm selling iris rhizomes for $1 each. They will also be doing demonstrations on how to divide and plant the iris, as well as, answering any questions you may have.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Bearded irises are well adapted to Kansas and multiply quickly. After several years, the centers of the clumps tend to lose vigor, and flowering occurs toward the outside. Dividing iris every three to five years will help rejuvenate the planting and increase flowering. Iris may be divided from late July through August, but late July through early August is ideal.Because iris clumps are fairly shallow, it is easy to dig up the entire clump. The root system of the plant consists of thick rhizomes and smaller feeder roots. Use a sharp knife to cut the rhizomes apart so each division consists of a fan of leaves and a section of rhizome. The best divisions are made from a double fan that consists of two small rhizomes attached to a larger one, which forms a Y-shaped division. Each of these small rhizomes has a fan of leaves. The rhizomes that do not split produce single fans. The double fans are preferred because they produce more flowers the first year after planting. Single fans take a year to build up strength. Rhizomes that show signs of damage due to iris borers or soft rot may be discarded, but you may want to physically remove borers from rhizomes and replant if the damage is not severe. It is possible to treat mild cases of soft rot by scraping out the affected tissue, allowing it to dry in the sun and dipping it in a 10 percent solution of household bleach. Make the bleach solution by mixing one-part bleach with nine parts water. Rinse the treated rhizomes with water and allow them to dry before replanting. Cut the leaves back by two-thirds before replanting. Prepare the soil by removing weeds and fertilizing. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations or by applying a complete fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet. Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Be wary of using a complete fertilizer in areas that have been fertilized heavily in the past. A growing number of soil tests show high levels of phosphorus. In such cases, use a fertilizer that has a much higher first number (nitrogen) than the second (phosphorus). This Saturday, July 24, the Ellis County Master Gardeners will be at the Downtown Hays Market from 7:00 am- 1:00 pm selling iris rhizomes for $1 each. They will also be doing demonstrations on how to divide and plant the iris, as well as, answering any questions you may have. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Dividing irises

By CRISTINA JANNEY Hays Post

The county fair has been the highlight of 78-year-old Edna Hansen's summer since she was a little girl.&nbsp;

When she was 9, she baked the best muffins at the Trego County Fair, but she was too young to take them to the Kansas State Fair.

"I still don't understand if I could bake the best muffins at 9, why I couldn't go to the county fair," she said with a sharp rap of her fist on the table and a coy smile, "and I still don't understand."

Hansen is a member of the Ellis County Fair Board. She served two stints on the board since 2002 when she and her husband moved back to the area and settled in Ellis. She said she can't remember how many years in total she served, but it's been at least 10 years.&nbsp;

This year will be Hansen's last Ellis County Fair as a board member. She will be moving to Texas soon to be closer to her son.&nbsp;

Hansen participated in 4-H in Trego County when she was a girl. Her family lived a few miles inside the Trego County line. As a child, she brought baking and sewing projects to the fair.

She said her experiences as a child have kept her coming back as a volunteer despite the long hours and little sleep she gets during fair week.

"As a kid, the fair was an extremely important part of my summer," she said. "If as an adult we won't do the work, then the kids lose out on that opportunity because then there is no 4-H fair. There is no open fair if people don't step up.

"I think it is just as important to me as it was when I was young."

For youth 70-years-ago and today, the county fair is something 4-H'ers work for the entire year, Hansen said.&nbsp;

"It was the highlight of the summer," Hansen said, "going to the fair and displaying our projects."

Hansen became a registered nurse and later earned her master's degree in social work. She handled child abuse cases for social services. She also served for a time as director of the Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) of the High Plains, which covers Ellis County.

She said she continued to use her 4-H skill as an adult.

4-H teaches youth how to be part of a group, Roberts Rules of Order, how to work together and how to be independent and work on a project on your own, she said.

"[You learn] sometimes you win, and sometimes you lose and you do both graciously," she said.

Hansen was never a 4-H leader, but her son was involved in 4-H when their family lived in California. He showed rabbits and cooked.

Hansen, a master gardener, is a trained judge and still helps judge horticulture and floriculture. She also won a reserve champion ribbon this year in arts and crafts for a piece of ceramic artwork.

As she's aged, her fair focus has changed.

"As a kid, I can remember thinking, 'When I grow up, I am going to go to the fair every day and I'm staying all day long," she said. "Watch out what you wish for, you might get it."&nbsp;

She said she still loves watching the children as they check their projects for ribbons.&nbsp;

"Seeing how excited they are is still one of my favorite parts," she said.

In 70 years, 4-H has modernized. Kids and adults alike use a computer to submit their entries for the fair — something Hansen still struggles with.

However, she said the same core values embodied in the 4-H pledge are still important today.

My Head to clearing thinking, My Heart to greater loyalty, My Hands to larger service, My Health to better living, For my club, my community, my country and my world.

Her focus as a fair participant has changed since she was a child.

Hansen's focus as a fair board member is the indoor 4-H and open exhibits, some of which include photography, foods, horticulture, arts and crafts, and fine arts.

2020 was very challenging, but the fair went forward with COVID-19 precautions. Several indoor events were canceled. Social distancing and mask-wearing were encouraged.

"We held our breath and prayed a lot that we would not have an outbreak," she said.

Her prayers were answered. No COVID outbreaks were associated with the 2020 fair.

She said it is wonderful to see the community able to come back out and enjoy the fair.

"It is nice to see people out here," she said, "seeing their neighbors, seeing the kids play, seeing them comparing their notes."

Our society is more mobile and children have more opportunities for activities than when Hansen was a child, but she said she believes county fairs are still important aspects of the local communities.&nbsp;

Even for those children who are not 4-H'ers, the fair can provide learning opportunities.

"Even some kids in Hays don't understand where your meat really comes from," she said. "'Well, just go to the store.' Where do you think the store got it from?

"Some of them in Hays had still not seen a live pig or a sheep."

Hansen has had a difficult year personally, her husband died of cancer and her sister died of COVID-19.

Although Hansen is moving out of state, her fellow fair volunteers are already offering to put her up if she'll come back for a visit next summer for the fair.&nbsp;

She said she likely won't stay away from 4-H. She said she'll probably try to find a fair near her new home east of Dallas.

Hansen encouraged more adults to become involved in 4-H and the fair. Many of the fair judges are aging and retiring. New volunteers are needed to take their places, she said.

You can learn more about being a 4-H leader or volunteer by visiting the <a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/">Cottonwood Extension District web</a>page. 4-H offers training for new volunteers.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1626298294411.jpeg" alt="Longtime Ellis County Fair board member Edna Hansen with her reserve champion ceramics project. This is the last year Hansen will be on the board. She is moving to Texas to be near family." />
 <figcaption>Longtime Ellis County Fair board member Edna Hansen with her reserve champion ceramics project. This is the last year Hansen will be on the board. She is moving to Texas to be near family.</figcaption>
 </figure>By CRISTINA JANNEY Hays PostThe county fair has been the highlight of 78-year-old Edna Hansen's summer since she was a little girl.&nbsp;When she was 9, she baked the best muffins at the Trego County Fair, but she was too young to take them to the Kansas State Fair."I still don't understand if I could bake the best muffins at 9, why I couldn't go to the county fair," she said with a sharp rap of her fist on the table and a coy smile, "and I still don't understand."Hansen is a member of the Ellis County Fair Board. She served two stints on the board since 2002 when she and her husband moved back to the area and settled in Ellis. She said she can't remember how many years in total she served, but it's been at least 10 years.&nbsp;This year will be Hansen's last Ellis County Fair as a board member. She will be moving to Texas soon to be closer to her son.&nbsp;Hansen participated in 4-H in Trego County when she was a girl. Her family lived a few miles inside the Trego County line. As a child, she brought baking and sewing projects to the fair.She said her experiences as a child have kept her coming back as a volunteer despite the long hours and little sleep she gets during fair week."As a kid, the fair was an extremely important part of my summer," she said. "If as an adult we won't do the work, then the kids lose out on that opportunity because then there is no 4-H fair. There is no open fair if people don't step up."I think it is just as important to me as it was when I was young."For youth 70-years-ago and today, the county fair is something 4-H'ers work for the entire year, Hansen said.&nbsp;"It was the highlight of the summer," Hansen said, "going to the fair and displaying our projects."Hansen became a registered nurse and later earned her master's degree in social work. She handled child abuse cases for social services. She also served for a time as director of the Court Appointed Special Advocates (CASA) of the High Plains, which covers Ellis County.She said she continued to use her 4-H skill as an adult.4-H teaches youth how to be part of a group, Roberts Rules of Order, how to work together and how to be independent and work on a project on your own, she said."[You learn] sometimes you win, and sometimes you lose and you do both graciously," she said.Hansen was never a 4-H leader, but her son was involved in 4-H when their family lived in California. He showed rabbits and cooked.Hansen, a master gardener, is a trained judge and still helps judge horticulture and floriculture. She also won a reserve champion ribbon this year in arts and crafts for a piece of ceramic artwork.As she's aged, her fair focus has changed."As a kid, I can remember thinking, 'When I grow up, I am going to go to the fair every day and I'm staying all day long," she said. "Watch out what you wish for, you might get it."&nbsp;She said she still loves watching the children as they check their projects for ribbons.&nbsp;"Seeing how excited they are is still one of my favorite parts," she said.In 70 years, 4-H has modernized. Kids and adults alike use a computer to submit their entries for the fair — something Hansen still struggles with.However, she said the same core values embodied in the 4-H pledge are still important today.My Head to clearing thinking, My Heart to greater loyalty, My Hands to larger service, My Health to better living, For my club, my community, my country and my world.Her focus as a fair participant has changed since she was a child.Hansen's focus as a fair board member is the indoor 4-H and open exhibits, some of which include photography, foods, horticulture, arts and crafts, and fine arts.2020 was very challenging, but the fair went forward with COVID-19 precautions. Several indoor events were canceled. Social distancing and mask-wearing were encouraged."We held our breath and prayed a lot that we would not have an outbreak," she said.Her prayers were answered. No COVID outbreaks were associated with the 2020 fair.She said it is wonderful to see the community able to come back out and enjoy the fair."It is nice to see people out here," she said, "seeing their neighbors, seeing the kids play, seeing them comparing their notes."Our society is more mobile and children have more opportunities for activities than when Hansen was a child, but she said she believes county fairs are still important aspects of the local communities.&nbsp;Even for those children who are not 4-H'ers, the fair can provide learning opportunities."Even some kids in Hays don't understand where your meat really comes from," she said. "'Well, just go to the store.' Where do you think the store got it from?"Some of them in Hays had still not seen a live pig or a sheep."Hansen has had a difficult year personally, her husband died of cancer and her sister died of COVID-19.Although Hansen is moving out of state, her fellow fair volunteers are already offering to put her up if she'll come back for a visit next summer for the fair.&nbsp;She said she likely won't stay away from 4-H. She said she'll probably try to find a fair near her new home east of Dallas.Hansen encouraged more adults to become involved in 4-H and the fair. Many of the fair judges are aging and retiring. New volunteers are needed to take their places, she said.You can learn more about being a 4-H leader or volunteer by visiting the <a href="https://cottonwood.k-state.edu/ellis-county4h/">Cottonwood Extension District web</a>page. 4-H offers training for new volunteers.

Longtime Ellis County Fair Board member packs her ribbons

Fall gardens do best when planted in mid-July, says K-State horticulture expert&nbsp;

MANHATTAN — It’s nearing the middle of July, so Kansas gardeners are turning their thoughts to harvesting tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and many other fruits and vegetables.&nbsp;

It’s not the time to begin the work all over again…right?&nbsp;

“Probably the last thing most gardeners are thinking of right now is planting vegetables,” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham. “But fall gardens will often produce higher quality, tastier cool-season crops if you plant now.”&nbsp;

Upham said fall vegetables do well if they are allowed to mature during cooler, less stressful times. That means a fall bounty requires getting seeds into the ground as early as mid-July.&nbsp;

Planting vegetables during summer’s heat, however, requires a different approach. “Plant seeds slightly deeper than you would in the spring so that it stays cooler, and the soil around the seeds stay moist longer,” Upham said. “Plant more thick, and thin the plants later. The plants also may need to be protected from rabbits by using fencing.”&nbsp;

Upham shared a timely calendar to help gardeners plan for a fall harvest:&nbsp;

Plant potatoes if you can find them, or use seed potatoes that you might have saved. Do not use freshly dug potatoes because they have a built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, do not use grocery store potatoes; they won’t sprout because they often have been treated.&nbsp;

Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower can be started from seed in mid-July. “Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them,” Upham said, adding that the crops should be transplanted in mid-August.&nbsp;

Seed spinach and long-season maturing lettuce. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;

Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.&nbsp;

“There is no need to fertilize before planting these crops,” Upham said. “Side dress them two weeks after transplanting, or four weeks after sowing seed by apply 2 tablespoons of a 16-0-0 fertilizer, or 1 tablespoon of 27-33-3 or 30-3-4 fertilizer.”&nbsp;

Upham said liquid fertilizer can also be used (many store brands exist), and should be used according to label instruction. “It would be a good idea to wash off the leaves with clean water to prevent burn from the fertilizer,” he said.&nbsp;

Fall crops should be watered more frequently so that the seed does not dry out. Upham recommends a soaker hose or drip irrigation next to the row, which allows water to slowly seep into the ground. “Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge,” he said.&nbsp;

Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <iframe width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HY3aMU82hA4"></iframe>
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure><h2>Fall gardens do best when planted in mid-July, says K-State horticulture expert&nbsp;</h2>K-State Research &amp; ExtensionMANHATTAN — It’s nearing the middle of July, so Kansas gardeners are turning their thoughts to harvesting tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and many other fruits and vegetables.&nbsp;It’s not the time to begin the work all over again…right?&nbsp;“Probably the last thing most gardeners are thinking of right now is planting vegetables,” said Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham. “But fall gardens will often produce higher quality, tastier cool-season crops if you plant now.”&nbsp;Upham said fall vegetables do well if they are allowed to mature during cooler, less stressful times. That means a fall bounty requires getting seeds into the ground as early as mid-July.&nbsp;Planting vegetables during summer’s heat, however, requires a different approach. “Plant seeds slightly deeper than you would in the spring so that it stays cooler, and the soil around the seeds stay moist longer,” Upham said. “Plant more thick, and thin the plants later. The plants also may need to be protected from rabbits by using fencing.”&nbsp;Upham shared a timely calendar to help gardeners plan for a fall harvest:&nbsp;<h2>Mid-July&nbsp;</h2>Plant potatoes if you can find them, or use seed potatoes that you might have saved. Do not use freshly dug potatoes because they have a built-in dormancy that will prevent growth. Also, do not use grocery store potatoes; they won’t sprout because they often have been treated.&nbsp;Cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower can be started from seed in mid-July. “Choose a protected place where the soil can be kept moist and rabbits will not bother them,” Upham said, adding that the crops should be transplanted in mid-August.&nbsp;<h2>Late July&nbsp;</h2>Seed beets, carrots and beans.&nbsp;<h2>Late July to early August&nbsp;</h2>Seed spinach and long-season maturing lettuce. Leaf lettuce will be seeded later.&nbsp;<h2>Mid- to late August&nbsp;</h2>Transplant cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower to their final location.&nbsp;“There is no need to fertilize before planting these crops,” Upham said. “Side dress them two weeks after transplanting, or four weeks after sowing seed by apply 2 tablespoons of a 16-0-0 fertilizer, or 1 tablespoon of 27-33-3 or 30-3-4 fertilizer.”&nbsp;Upham said liquid fertilizer can also be used (many store brands exist), and should be used according to label instruction. “It would be a good idea to wash off the leaves with clean water to prevent burn from the fertilizer,” he said.&nbsp;Fall crops should be watered more frequently so that the seed does not dry out. Upham recommends a soaker hose or drip irrigation next to the row, which allows water to slowly seep into the ground. “Overhead watering often causes soil to crust, making it more difficult for young, tender plants to emerge,” he said.&nbsp;Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.&nbsp;

🎥 Gardeners begin summer harvest … and look ahead to fall 

Larry Allen Towns, 71, of Colby, died Monday, July 5, 2021, at Hays 
Medical Center. He was born July 12, 1949, in Thomas County, KS, to 
Lawrence and Wilma (Kistler) Towns. Larry graduated from Colby High 
School in 1967 and Kansas State University in 1971, with a degree in 
Horticulture. He married Berna Wiens on April 13, 1969, in Colby. After 
Larry graduated college, they moved back to Colby to farm the family 
land he had cared for since the age of 15, when his father passed away. 
Larry went on to grow his farming operation and on the first day of corn
 harvest in 1985, he suffered a heart attack. This did not stop him 
though. Larry served on the Mingo COOP Board, Farm Bureau Board and was 
the president of the North Shore Cabin Area, at Cedar Bluff Lake. He was
 baptized at the Winona United Methodist Church. Larry enjoyed snow 
skiing, farming, fishing, lake time, and attending his grandchildren’s 
sporting events. 
He was preceded in death by his parents; stepfather, Paul Pabst and sister Laura Hansen. 
Larry is survived by his wife Berna; children, Tracy (Terry) Johnson, of
 Holcomb, KS and Travis (Carrie) Towns, of Monument, KS; grandchildren, 
Taylor and Tanner Johnson and Nathan Towns and siblings, Leroy (Jean) 
Towns and Lois (Larry) Struckmeyer. 
Visitation is 5-7:00 p.m. Thursday, July 7, 2021, at Baalmann Mortuary, 
Colby. Funeral Service is 10:00 a.m. Friday, July 8, 2021, also at the 
Mortuary. Memorials may be made to the Northwest Kansas Foundation for 
Hope and sent in care of Baalmann Mortuary, PO Box 391, Colby, KS 67701.
 For information or condolences visit www.baalmannmortuary.com&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1625579706491.png" alt="" />
 <figcaption></figcaption>
 </figure>Larry Allen Towns, 71, of Colby, died Monday, July 5, 2021, at Hays 
Medical Center. He was born July 12, 1949, in Thomas County, KS, to 
Lawrence and Wilma (Kistler) Towns. Larry graduated from Colby High 
School in 1967 and Kansas State University in 1971, with a degree in 
Horticulture. He married Berna Wiens on April 13, 1969, in Colby. After 
Larry graduated college, they moved back to Colby to farm the family 
land he had cared for since the age of 15, when his father passed away. 
Larry went on to grow his farming operation and on the first day of corn
 harvest in 1985, he suffered a heart attack. This did not stop him 
though. Larry served on the Mingo COOP Board, Farm Bureau Board and was 
the president of the North Shore Cabin Area, at Cedar Bluff Lake. He was
 baptized at the Winona United Methodist Church. Larry enjoyed snow 
skiing, farming, fishing, lake time, and attending his grandchildren’s 
sporting events. 
He was preceded in death by his parents; stepfather, Paul Pabst and sister Laura Hansen. 
Larry is survived by his wife Berna; children, Tracy (Terry) Johnson, of
 Holcomb, KS and Travis (Carrie) Towns, of Monument, KS; grandchildren, 
Taylor and Tanner Johnson and Nathan Towns and siblings, Leroy (Jean) 
Towns and Lois (Larry) Struckmeyer. 
Visitation is 5-7:00 p.m. Thursday, July 7, 2021, at Baalmann Mortuary, 
Colby. Funeral Service is 10:00 a.m. Friday, July 8, 2021, also at the 
Mortuary. Memorials may be made to the Northwest Kansas Foundation for 
Hope and sent in care of Baalmann Mortuary, PO Box 391, Colby, KS 67701.
 For information or condolences visit www.baalmannmortuary.com&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

Larry Allen Towns

K-State's Upham explains reasons, offers solutions&nbsp;

MANHATTAN – For Kansas gardeners, watching vegetables bloom but not set fruit can be very frustrating.&nbsp;

Yet, for various reasons, that often happens this is the time of year, says Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham.&nbsp;

“There are several possible reasons,” he said. “One condition that can affect several species is over-fertilization.”&nbsp;

Upham said that too much nitrogen in the soil causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Over-fertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers that do produce.&nbsp;

“This is especially true of tomatoes,” Upham said. “Over-fertilized tomatoes will produce a large, apparently healthy plant with no flowers, or flowers that don’t set fruit.”&nbsp;

Tomatoes, a popular choice of many gardeners, also won’t set fruit if the night-time temperature falls below 50 degrees F, which leads to sparse pollen production, according to Upham.&nbsp;

“They also won’t set when night-time temperatures are above 75 degree and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees with hot, dry winds,” he said. “Under such conditions, fertilization is not completed and no fruit develops. However, cherry tomatoes may be more forgiving of high temperatures than the larger slicers and will often set fruit in the heat.”&nbsp;

Upham said that many other crops – including squash, cucumbers, watermelon and muskmelon – can experience other problems.&nbsp;

“First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male; the production of male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes,” he said. “You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom.”&nbsp;

Upham said that if gardeners see both male and female flowers, have not fertilized, but still have a problem, it could be that the garden does not have enough pollinators.&nbsp;

“Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants,” Upham said. “If you don’t see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on any of those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators.”&nbsp;

Upham also cautioned against the over-use of insecticides, which can kill pollinators. He advises spraying near dusk when flowers have closed.&nbsp;

Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;

Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu" target="_blank">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2021/7/1625444048167.jpeg" alt="Temperature and the amount of fertilizer used can affect tomato production. Salina Post photo" />
 <figcaption>Temperature and the amount of fertilizer used can affect tomato production. Salina Post photo</figcaption>
 </figure><h2>K-State's Upham explains reasons, offers solutions&nbsp;</h2>MANHATTAN – For Kansas gardeners, watching vegetables bloom but not set fruit can be very frustrating.&nbsp;Yet, for various reasons, that often happens this is the time of year, says Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham.&nbsp;“There are several possible reasons,” he said. “One condition that can affect several species is over-fertilization.”&nbsp;Upham said that too much nitrogen in the soil causes the plant to emphasize vegetative growth, often to the detriment of fruit production. Over-fertilization can lead to a delay in flower production and a decrease in fruit set among the flowers that do produce.&nbsp;“This is especially true of tomatoes,” Upham said. “Over-fertilized tomatoes will produce a large, apparently healthy plant with no flowers, or flowers that don’t set fruit.”&nbsp;Tomatoes, a popular choice of many gardeners, also won’t set fruit if the night-time temperature falls below 50 degrees F, which leads to sparse pollen production, according to Upham.&nbsp;“They also won’t set when night-time temperatures are above 75 degree and daytime temperatures are above 95 degrees with hot, dry winds,” he said. “Under such conditions, fertilization is not completed and no fruit develops. However, cherry tomatoes may be more forgiving of high temperatures than the larger slicers and will often set fruit in the heat.”&nbsp;Upham said that many other crops – including squash, cucumbers, watermelon and muskmelon – can experience other problems.&nbsp;“First, the early flowers on these plants are usually all male; the production of male and female flowers becomes more balanced as time passes,” he said. “You can easily tell the difference between the two because only the female flower has a tiny fruit behind the blossom.”&nbsp;Upham said that if gardeners see both male and female flowers, have not fertilized, but still have a problem, it could be that the garden does not have enough pollinators.&nbsp;“Look for the presence of bees visiting the plants,” Upham said. “If you don’t see any, try hand-pollinating several flowers. Use a painter’s brush to transfer pollen from the anther of the male flower to the stigma of the female flower. If you get fruit on any of those flowers you pollinated, you need more pollinators.”&nbsp;Upham also cautioned against the over-use of insecticides, which can kill pollinators. He advises spraying near dusk when flowers have closed.&nbsp;Upham and his colleagues in K-State’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newsletter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is&nbsp;<a href="https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/info-center/newsletters/index.html" target="_blank">available to view online</a>&nbsp;or can be delivered by email each week.&nbsp;Interested persons can also send their garden- and yard-related questions to Upham at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:wupham@ksu.edu" target="_blank">wupham@ksu.edu</a>, or contact your&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ksre.k-state.edu/about/stateandareamaps.html" target="_blank">local K-State Research and Extension office</a>.

Are your vegetables blooming…but no fruit? 

We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather. There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum. Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection.

The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't allow your seeding or overseeding rates to become too high.&nbsp;Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (BioAdvanced Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). 

But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Often tall fescue lawns will recover from brown patch but infections this year seem more severe than usual and may require overseeding this fall.

Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District." />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.</figcaption>
 </figure>We have been receiving numerous reports of brown patch showing up on tall fescue. This disease is favored by warm night temperatures and extended periods of leaf wetness. If you go outside in the morning and the lawn is covered with dew and the temperature is in the high 60s or higher, it means that conditions are getting right for brown patch. The fungus is primarily a leaf pathogen and does not attack the roots. During severe outbreaks, the fungus may invade the lower leaf sheaths and crown and kill plants. But in most cases, the turfgrass can recover from brown patch. This recovery may take two to three weeks, depending on weather. There is no way to eliminate brown patch from a lawn. It will persist indefinitely in the soil. Therefore, the disease is not carried from one lawn to another. In almost all cases, the limiting factor for brown patch development is the weather, not the amount of fungal inoculum. Although you can’t eliminate the fungus, cultural practices – especially irrigation – can help control it. Don't water in the evening; instead, water early in the morning. This will help decrease the number of hours the leaf tissue remains wet and susceptible to infection. The frequency of irrigation is not as important as the time of day you do it. Don't overfertilize and certainly don't fertilize when brown patch is active. Also, don't allow your seeding or overseeding rates to become too high.&nbsp;Fungicides can be effective in preventing brown patch, but the two most commonly used products (Heritage and ProStar) are expensive and not available in small quantities to the general public. Homeowners do have access to some effective products including triadimefon (Green Light Fung-Away), propiconazole (BioAdvanced Fungus Control for Lawns, Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II) and myclobutanil (Immunox, F-Stop Lawn &amp; Garden). Of the three, triadimefon may be the fungicide of choice because it protects the turf longer (3 to 5 weeks rather than 2 weeks). But my suggestion is not to use fungicides unless you want to maintain a blemish-free yard and are willing to pay for it. In those cases, you would need to be on a preventative spray program, which is very expensive, rather than waiting for symptoms and applying as a curative. These products do not cure an infection already present but are only effective as a preventative. Applications should begin in mid-June and continue through August. Often tall fescue lawns will recover from brown patch but infections this year seem more severe than usual and may require overseeding this fall.Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

FICK: Brown patch on tall fescue

Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing season. &nbsp;But many people dislike both these characteristics. &nbsp;Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive.

Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the tall fescue portion of the lawn is green. Bermuda is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun.So, how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Therefore, you will need to reseed treated areas. In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.​Spray about the middle of July (or when the bermuda is growing well). Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two weeks and scalp the lawn (mow as low as possible and remove clippings.) &nbsp;This will prevent dead grass from covering any bermuda that starts to recover. Wait another two weeks and spray again with glyphosate if there is any green. Wait two more weeks and reseed. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Bermudagrass can make a nice lawn if you don't mind its invasiveness and short growing season. &nbsp;But many people dislike both these characteristics. &nbsp;Warm-season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and buffalograss, green up later than cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. They also go dormant earlier in the fall, which can make a lawn unattractive.Bermuda that invades a cool-season lawn will be brown during much of the spring and fall while the tall fescue portion of the lawn is green. Bermuda is much more drought and heat resistant than cool-season grasses, so it will take over a cool-season lawn during the summer months if it is in full sun.So, how do you control bermudagrass that has invaded a cool-season lawn? Research conducted in 1996 showed that glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, Kleeraway) is the best herbicide for the job. Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide and will kill everything— including tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Therefore, you will need to reseed treated areas. In our study, we applied a 2% solution of glyphosate on July 15 and again on August 15 on a bermudagrass plot that was more than 15 years old. More than one year later, we saw no regrowth. Glyphosate works best if bermuda is growing well. The better the bermudagrass is growing, the more chemical is taken up and pushed into the roots. Water and fertilize if needed to get it going.​Spray about the middle of July (or when the bermuda is growing well). Use glyphosate (2% solution). Wait two weeks and scalp the lawn (mow as low as possible and remove clippings.) &nbsp;This will prevent dead grass from covering any bermuda that starts to recover. Wait another two weeks and spray again with glyphosate if there is any green. Wait two more weeks and reseed. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910. K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

FICK: Bermudagrass control

Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads, and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid-to late-summer. So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is NOT the time to control it unless it is in an area where a non-selective herbicide that kills everything such as glyphosate (Roundup) can be used. The best control for little barley in turf is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding in early September can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. However, if you do not plan to overseed even though the lawn is a bit thin, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is&nbsp; Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Weed Impede can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue that is grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr) a pre-emergent, is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide about mid-September and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;

<figure>
 <img src="https://media.eaglewebservices.com/public/2020/2/1580750915301.jpeg" alt="Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;" />
 <figcaption>Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District.&nbsp;</figcaption>
 </figure>Many people mistake little barley (Hordeum pusillum) for a little foxtail because the foxtail and little barley seedheads are similar. However, little barley is a winter annual that comes up in late September - October and spends the winter as a small plant. It thrives in the cooler spring temperatures, forms seed heads, and dies out usually by July. Foxtail, on the other hand, is a summer annual that does well in hot weather. Also, foxtail will not produce seedheads until mid-to late-summer. So, why are we talking about little barley now? Because now is NOT the time to control it unless it is in an area where a non-selective herbicide that kills everything such as glyphosate (Roundup) can be used. The best control for little barley in turf is a thick lawn that is mowed high enough that sunlight does not hit the soil. Little barley seed will not germinate in such conditions. Overseeding in early September can thicken up a tall fescue lawn and prevent a little barley infestation. However, if you do not plan to overseed even though the lawn is a bit thin, preemergence herbicides can be used to provide at least partial control of this weed. The only preemergence herbicide that I know is labeled specifically for little barley is&nbsp; Weed Impede by Monterey Lawn and Garden. Weed Impede can only be used on warm-season grasses (bermudagrass, buffalograss, zoysiagrass) and tall fescue that is grown in warm-season areas such as Kansas. However, Dimension (dithiopyr) a pre-emergent, is labeled for barley (Herodium spp.) which would include little barley and therefore can be used to keep this weed under control. Because little barley is a winter annual, apply the preemergence herbicide about mid-September and water in to activate. If overseeding, do not apply any preemergence herbicide as it will interfere with the germination of tall fescue. Lauren Fick is the Horticulture Extension Agent for the Cottonwood Extension District. If you have questions, she can be contacted by e-mail at&nbsp;<a href="mailto:lfick@k-state.edu">lfick@k-state.edu</a>&nbsp;or by phone at 785-628-9430 or 620-793-1910.&nbsp;